pittspeng@hotmail.com

Well, might as well update some on the project. Bought a bunch of wiring to go towards rewiring the dash and battery hookups. I've decided to go to the RB20DET route. Going to save me a bit of money in the end (not to mention gaining power and fuel economy). MontanaZ bought the nice dash as well as the valve cover and intake housing. I'm going to part out the engine and transmission (as well as accessories I will not need). So if there is anything you might like (dizzy, alternator, etc), PM me or comment in this thread.

Never heard of zcarsource. Honestly. Never even ran into it in the past year when looking around for parts for my Z31. Diseazd, thank you! 6 new rods for just under $300 shipped. Madkaw, I was looking at forged rods because the zstore didn't list any actual details about the rods they have.

The reason I need to replace the rods is because a bearing got spun. While the rods might appear fine (and most would be), the one with the spun bearing got banged around on the crank a lot. That's a lot of stress to place on a rod. While I could technically try to reuse it, there is no telling how long it would last.

I've looked around a lot and there isn't much to choose from. I can go forged for $1500~, go Chinese for $400-500, or go through the Z store for $101 (ea). I want some quality rods (all new or in really good shape) but there isn't anything reasonable for my budget ($700 is where I want to top out at). I'm surprised Eagle doesn't make rods for the L24. I love their rods. I would go though the Z store but there isn't any actual information about the product itself. It's just listed as a connecting rod for the L24. So I'm assuming they are stock rods. I don't plan on building the engine for high horsepower, but if I'm tearing into the block, why not spend a little bit for rods that I know won't fail. Currently, my engine has a spun bearing and crank damage (cylinders 1 and 6 are at different heights by almost 3/4"). It's safe to assume that I'll need at least one new intake and exhaust valve. My machinist is closed today so I can't make a call to him to see if he can source the rods, unfortunately. I've read extensive reviews about the forged rods from Max Speeding ($450~) on some of the MG forums. They have held up to their built engines for racing over in the UK. I haven't found a single bad review about them. Well there is one thing, not every mm of the surface is smooth. But the MG guys have said a couple seconds with a file and problem solved. They also noticed that the design is a cross between Crower and Pauter. I would prefer to go a better route, but at the same time, it is the best deal. Stronger than stock, yet affordable enough to not hesitate if they are the ideal option. Anyone know of any rods that I could use in this engine while maintaining a near stock compression ratio (I will have the cylinders bored and honed out .020" over)? I've tried searching if other rods would work in the L24 (it's a 72 by the way with a stock block/head) but I keep coming up with threads on stroking the L28. If anyone has some good rods (10k miles or less) that they would be willing to part with for a good price, I'd be interested in making a deal. If you have any other tips and suggestions, please let me know! I do realize I could find a L28ET and swap it for about the same as I'd pay to rebuild the block, but finding a running L28ET near me is a challenge at best (let alone for $1000~). I have access to a 240mm flywheel with a clutch and flywheel (from mid to late 80's nissan pickup and a 71B) that are almost new, but have been exposed to the weather for a few months (sanding should clear it right up right?). Oh, and a V8 swap is out of the question. They are like gold around here. Any decent running SBC/SBF run $2000 complete and stock. Even the mid 90's Crown Vic's run for $1500 on a bad day. Gotta love where a early 00s Ford Ranger will get more offers than a new FRS. I appreciate any help you guys can provide! Thanks!

Hey, once my 240 is done, I'm down. Until then, my DD Z31 can make the trip without an issue. She ain't pretty, but she's quick and gets great fuel economy. Purchase cost: $330 plus $75 in fuel and $40 for food/drinks Light rebuild: $1300 Sheet metal: $225 ERW tubing: $100 Paint: $1500 Having a friend's uncle do the job at his shop: $500 (if I remove most of the paint and strip the chassis) Brakes and suspension: $700 Fluids and tune up: $300 Fender Flares: $250~ But that's basically a full restoration from the ground up (excluding bushings and any missing bolts I have to replace) for $5320 and an estimated 120-50 hours. And I've got 4 months to do it. Paint will be last naturally. So $3320 in 4 months. It's certainly doable.

Try Simple Green. The stuff is non toxic and biodegradable but also pretty dang strong. It's cheap too. After that, use vinegar (doesn't leave streaks), it will help cut through grease and oils.

Kinda late to the thread but I'd thought I'd chime in. The 71C in both the Z31 and 240sx are the exact same transmission and bellhousing (98% sure about this part). Neither had reverse synchros. Nissan started using the Z32 transmission in 87. From 07/87-89, the turbocharged Z31 used the Z32 internals but a different bellhousing. With the Z31 testing out the new transmission, Nissan didn't want to halt production of a good transmission. So they put them into the 240sx.

Called Robello and I'm going to get a crank and piston (with rings) set from them. Less than $400 shipped (approximately).

What are their dimensions and weight? If it's small enough, it would be ideal to use a flatrate box from USPS (cheaper shipping most likely) but may be light enough to use a bubble protected envelope. Let me know the metal gauge and size and I'll figure out the shipping cost and we can talk price from there (I like to be fair because it's all about respect).

Well, cam timing is good then. Thanks for the link! Flywheel is there, all the teeth are good (starter and flywheel), but the gear on starter don't kick out. So a new starter is in order as well as a new oil pan (or I can have my friend weld it shut). Cylinders 3 and 4 are the same height, cylinders 2 and 5 are the same height, but cylinders 1 and 6 are not. Cylinder 1 is where I'd expect it to be but cylinder 6 is acting like it's maybe 7-11 degrees ATDC where as cylinder 1 is closer to 20 degrees ATDC. So $5 on a spun rod bearing for cylinder 1 and the crank being wore down. Which also would mean that valves got tapped. Thus meaning a new oil pump (and possibly sump), intake and exhaust valve, pistons, rods, and a crank (basically a bottom end rebuild). But if I have to go that far, might as well as deck the head some and do new valves all the way around. Gonna have to refrain myself from getting the exhaust ported too... I hate visiting the machinist. I always walk in with a set budget and double or triple it by the time I leave. What can I say, I love building for power. Which is why I need to get a running RB or I'll have a $5k bill. Haha. And Montana Z, you'll realize I'm not one of the people who lose it when something bad happens. I have a bunch of stories that can speak to that. For example, I shredded a 4L60E in 15k miles with a built NA 3.1 SFI powering it. Making close to 200 whp and 240 ft lbs. The 60E has been known to withstand 30k miles at 450 ft lbs. All I did was laugh and limp home in 1st gear (I was doing a rolling burnout in 1st, so it was the only gear intact). Also, what would you be interested in paying? (you'd have to come and pick it up; to my doorstep it's just about 2 hours if you do 75-80) I'm going to try to provide direct power to the ignition switch and see if I can get the dash lights and functions to come on. If it works, then I just need to rewire a little bit (from ignition switch to battery and might as well do new grounds and terminals. I've got heaps of 6 gauge laying around so I just need new terminals (which I have, just gotta find).

Well, the bottom of the oil pan has a puncture (put oil in to do a compression test). And it's facing outwards. Not a good sign. Once I can pull it into the garage, then I'll know what I'm looking at. Plus, it seems power isn't getting to the dash. It's going to be one headache after another. Looks like I know what I'm going to end up doing. Sell a bunch of OE stuff, buy an RB, do a custom race dash, and a wire tuck. Assuming the engine hasn't gone to crap. So Montana Z, start saving because the good dash may be yours soon enough. Gonna tear more stuff apart. Also, the starter works. And darn well at that. However, it's not catching anything. I don't know if it's throwing the gear out, the gear broke off, or if there isn't a flywheel. I'll keep updating this thead with what I find out. Either one of you need anything that I wouldn't need?

$25 for the patches and shipped to Montana? I seem to have come across a question that is of importance for today's progress. Tore off the valve cover, lobes are clean and smooth (yay! no oil starvation!). I also wanted to check the cam timing. Got the first cylinder to TDC and checked the dizzy. The dizzy is timed. However (as seen in the photo below), I notice the cam isn't in proper timing (or so I believe). There isn't a peg or notch so I can't exactly go by that for the cam timing. The light colored link is on the number 2 and at perfect TDC, it's 1.5 links from the number 2 on the cam. I don't really plan to take off the timing cover to count the indiviual links. But I can say that everything rotates smoothly. But that doesn't mean the valves aren't bent. So therein lies my question. Can the cam gear be rotated around or can it only fit one way? Of course there is always the option that they just got the cam in place and the crank in place and didn't bother to check the marks on either but rather counted by links. And there is always the option that the tensioner lost tension (if I remember right from pictures, it's controlled by oil pressure) and the slack caught up and I'm a mere mm or two from taping the valves. Gonna do some more looking and gonna see if the chain is loose (or if I can move it at all rather).

I would love some templates if you would't mind making copies. What's the price? @Montana Z: I'll certainly keep that in mind. I currently work graveyards at the Town Pump during the weekdays. I'm hoping to score a job at Helena Sand and Gravel as a diesel mechanic (which will fund the restoration and RB swap in 3-4 months). The biggest issue I'll have is doing the welding on such thin steel (20 gauge from the factory as I've understood from searches). I've made a friend here who frequently welds 20-24 gauge, so that will help me a lot.

Thanks. I bought this from a guy in Monarch actually. Was a bit of a drive last Friday. Went through White Sulpher Springs and came back through Great Falls/Helena (I live in Townsend). My goal is to have it finished (at least driving and stopping) by my 23rd birthday in late May. I've got access to every tool I could possibly need and a lot of motivation, so I've got that going for me (not that the cold is helping me any).

Siteunseen: yes, $330. I had the same response when I saw it on Craigslist for $350. I had to call to make sure that wasn't a typo. Haha. We made the deal for $325 but then he brought out a Chiltons that covers from 70-88. So I tossed an extra $5 his way because it will be useful for my Z31 as well (manual includes electrical and vacuum diagrams which will help me immensly when redoing the engine bay in the 240Z; as I'll need some stuff that isn't there or is cut in half such as the throttle cables). Cbuczesk: I'd like to keep the better dash and use that. I want it to look clean. Hence the carpet and the hatch badge (plus, I love the Fairlady badge haha). Plus I want my lady to feel proud to ride in it. It won't be used at track days as we don't have many tracks in Montana (which royally sucks). We have a few drag strips and some small circuits (dirt, not paved, for derby). I want to do a track setup because this is Montana, and I do live in the mountains. Which of course means some amazing roads to drive on. The reason for the extra windshield is because the current one has a crack at the top right side. This doesn't bother me as I know the glass won't shatter at higher speeds (my Z31 has the same crack almost but on the bottom left and it hasn't fractured or anything at 150mph. But again. for a clean look. So basically, I plan on it looking clean, going fast, handling well, and being very safe. As for the rust being common, I'm assuming that is for the area above the front section of the frame as well? If so, got any tips on handling that? Also, any threads regarding that specific location that list off what others have done? I'd search but my back is out of allignment again and I just got off a 12 hour shift so all I'm inclined to do is grab food and a beer. Haha. Thanks!