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blodi

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blodi last won the day on December 6 2017

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About blodi

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    Farmington Hills, MI

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  • Occupation
    Designer-Ford Motor Company

My Z Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    Former Owner
    Z fanatic but no car right now
  1. Glad others are all getting something out of this! Started this just to educate myself, but happy others can learn with me! esmit208, I don't know if my tuner has an altimeter, but I'll look. It was varying temps when I did various pulls, so I always kept that in mind. I think we are between the last two setups as far as e tubes and such...then just figuring out the accell circuit. Hopefully tuning can resume March/April once the snow here in Michigan clears. In the meantime I have plenty to do: lash pad fix, rear disc conversion, some small electrical fixes...etc.
  2. They are flat on the bottom. I supposed I could get the 175's and maybe have the metal shop here at work knock them down for me.
  3. So I ordered my lash pad from MSA (.170")....which was then backrordered...but now they said they no longer carry smaller than .175". Just my luck. Anyone have a 170? Or know where to get one? I don't want to change all 12 to 175 if I can help it.
  4. Lash pad is back-ordered for 3-4 weeks....oh well. I got time now that the snow is piling up outside right now.
  5. I did run a magnet around the head last night, but no luck finding the small part. Ordered new lash pad (.170") and got a couple rare earth magnets here at work. Should be back up and running soon!
  6. “That theres ur problem”. Broken lash pad. The other small part that broke off it I cannot find so it probably dropped to the pan. I’ll check the thickness tomorrow and order one. Do I have to remove the camshaft to install a new one?
  7. Not at all...still ran/started great. Plenty of power.
  8. went from bad to worse...tapping turned to #4 cylinder not firing at all. Got spark and fuel....compression test showed 90 psi on that cylinder. So, I'm suspecting a stuck or bent valve....going to pull valve cover to inspect when I have a chance here.
  9. Drove the Z into work today since it's the last day in sight for 50+ degree temps. Ran great all the way until I was almost to work and then the tapping came back. I'll see what happens on the drive home. Good point on checking for throttle plate screws..yikes. I'm also wondering if I'm getting a bit of knock due to timing since the temps have gotten colder. I am running a lot of timing so maybe I need to back it down a bit and see if that changes it. I will try the blocking of the accel jets in the spring and we will see what we get.
  10. Just an update...kinda...the car has pretty much been parked for the last month and half as I've been dealing with moving and new house projects. I did take it for a short drive a few days ago..the engine was doing the tapping intermittently for a little while then it went away completely after a while. So, not really sure what it was/is. Car was running great though. Not sure if I'll have chance to drive it again this season to do anymore tuning/tapping investigation...snow will be upon us soon Just wanted to make sure everyone knew i hadn't forgotten the thread...but it may go dormant for a while here.
  11. I re adjusted the valves to .010 and .012 and put in new plugs.....no change. Noise also now seems to happen at idle sometimes and during constant RPM when I hold the throttle open. But, the noise does seem to be a bit intermittent. I'm suspecting maybe exhaust leak (I can't see signs of one) or maybe an oil spray bar issue? The bar is intact and no obvious blockage just from a visual inspection. I also hooked up my timing light and the noise is certainly not a fast as the timing light flashes. Probably won't have time to dive much more into it for a couple weeks here. I'm afraid I may not then get much more done on the tuning either before winter sets in. We will see.
  12. Will do! Bare with me here over the next few weeks. Going to be out of town and then am moving over the next two week after that. I checked a few valves last night and they are all tight .008 and .010 respectively as I set them. The chain did have a good amount of slack in it on the drivers side, but then I realized that was because I had moved the cam gear by hand. I turned it over a few times with the starter and the slack seemed tight/good. I got some new plugs too that I'll throw in for good measure. Might be next week til I can go through every valve thoroughly. Really hoping it's not a rod knock. Seemed to start randomly as I was driving into work last week out of nowhere, hadn't done any pulls or anything.
  13. Pulled each plug wire...no change. Which I understand to be good news as it would maybe indicate rod knock? You really hear it mostly on decel after reving. Sound like it's coming from the top end. Pulled the valve cover and nothing obvious...I'll check valve lash. No signs of exhaust leak around the header that I could find either.
  14. Yeah, going to try to pull the valve cover and check lash this weekend. I adjusted it all when before i installed the engine (1.5 years ago)...I'll check it again. It's a bit of an unnerving sound.
  15. While waiting for the 140/240's to show up I was curious and installed the F16's with 155/185 as originally stated on the engine when I bought it. I did this with the 36mm chokes before but, not with the current 35's.... F16 155/185..... 10517-2 by blodi, on Flickr 10517-1 by blodi, on Flickr The 140/240's showed up tonight and I installed them. I'll report back with data. But, also ran into a tapping noise that I am not thrilled about today too.
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