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Namerow last won the day on January 12

Namerow had the most liked content!

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About Namerow

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  1. JNC RIP Dan Gurney, 1931-2018

    Truly deserving of the label, 'hero'. I had the pleasure of attending the Goodwood Revival in England a few years ago on the occasion when they paid tribute to Dan and his career. The celebration lap with Dan and his wife, Evi (their car driven by Tony Brooks, IIRC), accompanied by about 18 of the most important of the cars that he drove over the course of career, was truly memorable. Dan managed to rise above 'trash talk' and 'in your face' and just went out and got the job done -- whether it was behind the wheel or as team owner -- enjoying every minute of it. We're all a little poorer with his passing.
  2. 1971 HLS30-14938 "Lily" build

    Post #60 in that thread provides a pretty good description of how to disassemble and reassemble. Is there any way you could rig up a brake hose from front or rear wheel cylinder line of an active vehicle to the appropriate port of the valve and then use hydraulic pressure (press on the brake pedal) to blow the piston out?
  3. Worth a view (and listen), if you've never seen this segment. The Z's straight six, done up like this, sounds like half a Ferrari V12. Great sound. I'm usually not a fan of flared fenders on these cars, because they usually look too 'Hot Wheels'. This is the only Z I've seen with fender flares that add, rather than detract, from the car's looks.
  4. A few years ago, I was in the middle of restoring the heater/blower system for my 70. All of the foam gaskets were shot, so I made tracings and used them to fabricate replacements from foam sheet. My approach involved making paper cut-outs that I could glue to the foam sheet and then use as a guide for cutting out the shapes and punching the holes. I didn't want to risk malking a mistake with my original tracings, so I scanned them into .pdf files and then used those to print out the pieces that I eventually glued to the foam. I ended up with a library of .pdf files for all of the system's gaskets. I posted these as part of a how-to article, but another member recently contacted me to say that they won't download any more. For that reason, I'm re-posting them here. Hope they can help someone else with their restoration. They should come out of your printer in 1:1 scale. For most of these gaskets, I recommend that you use the 1mm-thick closed-cell neoprene foam sheets that you can buy at crafts stores like Michaels. These sheets already have adhesive on one side, so they're very easy to use. You'll probably need at least a dozen sheets (maybe more). You'll need something thicker and softer to make the pads for the big airflow control flaps. I recommend 1/4"-thick open-cell foam. They need to be covered with thin, soft vinyl sheet. The foam that lines the plenum box for the centre air outlet grill is intended to reduce airflow noise. It needs to be made from open-cell foam (1/8"-thick). 240Z 1970-71 Series 1 - HVAC Foam Gasket Templates.zip
  5. VINTAGE Z auction in JAPAN

    i believe we may be about to witness the effects of the main core (think bell curve) of the 'baby boomer' retirement phenomenon. This will unleash into the classic car market thousands of aging-but-wealthy people with time and a lot of money on their hands and a deep pool of nostalgia that they want to have serviced. There aren't enough Ferraris, Cobras, Maseratis and E-Types to go around, and too many of the other obvious choices are too uncomfortable or unreliable to suit a seventy-year-old trying to relive his or her youth in style, safety and comfort. The days of the $25K 240Z may be coming to and end soon. Only the Porsche 911 and the Alfa GTV tick the same boxes.
  6. Thanks for posting. I could never figure out how to get the parts fiche files to load properly on my computer. Lots of interesting things in these files. Who knew, for example, that a headlight washing system was offered on S30's destined for the Swedish market?
  7. Datsun-240z Vs Fairlady-z432

    Perhaps the 10000RPM instrument face could be created rather easily as a computer-generated image and then printed onto some type of thin, durable material by a commercial printer. It could then be carefully trimmed to shape and glued onto the existing instrument face (or maybe just laid over top, without using glue).
  8. 1976 280Z Restoration Project

    Thanks for the insights. It's additional details like these that help us all to learn how it's done (as opposed to simply admiring the end result and muttering, 'I wish I could do that.') In my case, I already have the dual-voltage Eastwood gun and have used it -- in combination with oven curing -- with good results on small pieces like the front tow hooks. However, I've had reservations about trying it on bigger parts and would never have even thought it feasible to do a really big piece like the front crossmember. That looked like a job for a commercial powder-coating shop. I have a small blast cabinet and have used it successfully with the lid open to do some work on parts up to the size of the engine valve cover. However, I've never considered trying the 'bucket-and-box' approach for larger parts. Thanks for showing that it can be done. I've used the copper slag media (purchased at Princess Auto) on a couple of parts and found it cuts very fast. Good to know that the post-blasting surface cleanup need only consist of air-blasting. Finally, your positive experience with re-positioning the IR light stand for curing powder on a really large part will probably result in a lot of us adding this piece of equipment to our shops. It would not have thought it possible to get such a nice result by sequential, zone-by-zone heating. Here, too, thanks for showing that it can be done.
  9. 1976 280Z Restoration Project

    Looks fabulous! Hard to believe you were outdoors doing sandblasting in Ft. Saskatchewan with temps at -25. A few questions about the paint: What make/model of powdercoat gun did you use? What powder did you use? Gloss, satin or something else? Now that you've seen the result, would you make the same choice a second time? How many pounds of powder did you use? Did you experience any difficulty getting the powder to coat the nooks and crannies? Any special tips to offer? How many times did you need to re-position the IR lamp to get heat coverage for the full surface area? A few questions about the paint prep: What media did you use for the sandblasting? How much media (lb) do you estimate you used for the job? How much media do you think you lost (not recovered from the catchment box) ? How long did the blasting job take until you were satisfied it was ready for paint? Did you do any final prep to the surfaces before powder application?
  10. Cody's Goon

    I'd call that 'patina' ! Great job straightening it out. I think I would have binned it. There's a YouTube video that shows a detailed restoration of a piece of kinked stainless. The piece was hammered, flat-filed, then taken through a sequence of sanding and buffing. Impressive results. You might consider whether flat-filing (without hammering) would be a remedy.
  11. My 240z project

    Permatex High-Temperature Thread Sealant looks like the most appropriate compound.
  12. It will be a frosty -9 degrees F tonight in my part of southern Ontario. No relief in site either. The prediction for Friday is the same. Happy New Year to all!
  13. Broken Manifold Stud - Helicoil

    Nice write-up. Good that the engine was out of the car and already stripped, because the drilling-and-tapping job would have been more difficult otherwise (canted engine doesn't help). That said, I'll bet the engine-in-situ helicoil job has been performed hundreds, if not thousands of times in Nissan service bays around the world. The front one is certainly easier to get at than the back one. Interesting that the reverse-rotation drill didn't provide a solution. I've heard others swear by that technique. I could never quite understand why, though. The direction of rotation should have no effect on the amount of heat generated (to help break down the thread corrosion) and the reverse torque generated by the drill's cutting action would seem to be modest at best. I wonder whether the end of this stud (broken-off well below the surface) could have been successfully built up with a MIG to the point where a nut could have been tacked onto the end? Anyone care to comment on whether this example was within the limit of the MIG strategy? I wouldn't think that there's going to be an issue with the HeliCoil insert backing out because of heat cycling. But you never know. Did you consider using Loctite on the outer threads of the insert? Did the HeliCoil instructions have anything to say about this?
  14. My two swiss S30Z Fairlady Restoration build thread

    Nice work. Of all the parts that I tried to re-plate using my D-I-Y plating set-up, this one was the most problematic (many heavily 'shaded' areas, along with a difficult-to-plate interior surface. Your results illustrate one the important superiorities of commercial plating.