Namerow

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Namerow last won the day on August 15 2016

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  1. Trying to hand-test a shock absorber tells you very little about its on-car performance. All you're really detecting is the resistance of the gas charge inside the chamber. While the effort required to compress the gas charge may seem like a big deal to you, it's fairly insignificant in comparison with the hydraulic resistance that the shock generates when it's compressed by the wheel running over a ridge in the road at 20 or 30 or 40 mph (or when it's extended by the force of the suspension spring when the wheel tries to slam down into a pothole). Although I haven't experienced driving a Z equipped with KYB's for many years, my recollection is that they're valved pretty soft. Not as soft as the OE set-up, mind you, but way softer than a performance shock like a Tokico. Unfortunately, it's difficult to compare shock absorbers numerically... something you can do with a spring (or, at least with a non-progressive spring), where the pounds-per-inch rating pretty much tells the whole story. You need a shock dyno to generate performance data for a shock absorber. The shock manufacturers use these for both development and QA/QC purposes, but they rarely supply any performance specs with their products. It's just possible that someone out there (probably a racer) has dyno-tested some of the shocks available for the Z and can post their measurements. Anybody?
  2. The Z's front-end aero lift problems were/are well documented and date right back to the experiences of the car's original owners in the mid-1970's. The cure was lifted directly from the race track in the form of front and rear spoilers. Stiffening up the steering rack-to-frame bushings was also common practice. I'm not sure that beefing up the roll bar would help, though (unless you've lowered the car and have a bump steer issue). 'Car & Driver' magazine's editors carried out a nice cut-and-try, D-I-Y project somewhere in the late 1970's in which they fabbed, installed, and then track-tested bent-aluminum-sheet spoilers of progressively greater height (rear) and depth (front) to see how they worked and find the optimum front/rear combination. IIRC, the car was fitted with force transducers to measure the lift. Now that I've brought this up, I guess I'm obligated to dig into my back issues and find the article. If I'm successful, I'll post it here later in the weekend. From my perspective, it's not really a question of whether spoiler work but rather one of how small a front spoiler I can get away with (or front/rear spoiler combination, if one at the back is absolutely necessary) to achieve adequate results for modern highway driving speeds. I'm not really a fan of the way big front air dams and rear spoilers affect the Z's look. I've always found the car's styling very 'fragile' and not well suited to customizing. Your needs and preferences may, of course, be different from mine.
  3. I'd like to hear some comments from owners who have experience with the small, hard-rubber 'chin' spoiler that was installed (by Nissan, I believe) on the Z's sold in England. Was it effective in reducing front-end float at speeds in the 120 - 130km/h (75 - 80 mph)? For reference, the Z that appears on the cover of the Haynes repair manual has this spoiler. There are also some good close-up pix of the part in Ray Hutton's book, 'The Z-Series Datsuns'. It appears to be pretty much vertical in orientation and only about 4" deep.
  4. I've had mixed results with Freeze-Off type products. They work like a charm sometimes, but aren't much help in other cases. I freed up all three of my downpipe-to-exhaust fasteners successfully using heat only... but it took renewed heating many steps along the way for each fastener to coax them loose. They were reluctant to turn for at least the first 1/4" of thread travel. I had to use MAP gas and a swirl-type torch head to generate enough heat. An oxyacetylene torch is ideal, if you have access to one.
  5. I think you're may be on to something, Jim. However, the 'bolt' (actually more like a long stud) is non-rotational because it's designed to be firmly tightened into the blind threaded hole in the float bowl casting. That means that you wouldn't be able to rotate it to a new position (to take advantage of the eccentricity you're proposing) unless you were prepared to leave the threaded stud-to-casting joint 'loose' after you'd found the bolt orientation position you want. Maybe a thin jamb nut? If that would work (and I'm sure that one or all of Capt Obvious, Blue, Patcon, Grannyknot and maybe even Z Therapy are about to start work on this ), then it would seem that the final touch would be to slot the other end of the 'bolt' (where the lock nut) to allow use of a screwdriver to turn the bolt to make adjustments. Adjusting sequence would be: loosen lock nut on end of bolt loosen jamb nut where bolt fits into float casting turn bolt until desired fuel level is observed inside carb nozzle tighten jamb nut tighten lock nut job done One additional thought: I don't think the bolt offset needs to be more than 5mm. That would provide an up-down adjustment of +/- 5mm for the float bowl. If you set the float 'tang' adjustment to the FSM-recommended setting to start with, an additional +/- 5mm of adjustment should be more than enough to zero in on the desired fuel height in the carb nozzle. Gentlemen: Start your lathes. Report back here in a week, with pictures (to prove that it really happened). Whoever wins owes me two finished prototype eccentric bolts.
  6. Figuring out the fuel level in the float chamber is easy. What we really need is for somebody to come up with a mechanism that allows the float level to be adjusted needing to remove the float chamber lid.
  7. If you have the opportunity to visit Ireland, check out this little museum in Waterville on the Ring of Kerry. It has a great display of cable samples and other equipment from the original trans-Atlantic cable-laying efforts... http://www.ireland.com/en-us/what-is-available/attractions-built-heritage/historic-houses-and-castles/destinations/republic-of-ireland/kerry/waterville/all/1-90308/ The Irish whiskey isn't bad, either.
  8. Most of that will buff right out...
  9. The section headings in Wick Humble's book provide a pretty good guide for reassembly steps.
  10. You're going to grind all those welds, right?
  11. I found Vintage Connections to be an excellent supplier. If you purchase connectors and terminals, make sure you also buy the small and large terminal removal tools (not v. expensive and worth every penny) and a ratcheting terminal crimping tool (VC has one for under $50 that produces good results with a bit of practice).
  12. Not sure exactly when they added these to their catalog (sometime during the past year, I think), but it turns out that Whitehead Performance (Toronto) has introduced an almost-full line of own-brand poly bushings for the 240-260-280 Z's. One of the key design features is the use of a material with a lower-than-usual durometer rating. Here's their write-up: "Whiteline Plus bushings provide the softness needed for street driven, low vibration, noise and harshness characteristics, while displaying extreme abrasion, tear and cut resistance, and near-zero compression set at a lower durometer reading of 70-80 (versus most poly bushings 100+ rating). In addition, Whiteline Plus polyurethane bushings are able to be bonded directly to the metal shell, which provide a method of flow control giving the bushing the characteristics of soft ride while on smooth roads, and when under cornering pressure cause the bushing to become firmer for improved suspension performance." T/C Rod kit - C $43 Steering Coupler kit - C $73 Front Inner Control Arm kit - C $59 Rear Outer Control Arms kit - C $64 Rear Inner Control Arms kit - C $90 Moustache Bar kit - C $71 That totals out at C $ 400 (about US $300), so they're definitely premium-priced (and no 'master kit' is being offered at this time). The typical PU master kits being sold by 'others' (which also include Steering Rack and Roll Bar bushings, plus 4 bump stops) are going for as little as US $200 c/o American vendors. Not saying that Whitehead is gouging on price. Instead, I think their prices just reflect the cost premium that comes with a small-volume production run. The sleeve-to-bush 'bonding' feature noted in the Whitehead write-up comes into play for the front-inner and rear-outer control arm pieces. It looks like they've paid proper attention to the design of the poly and metal pieces, so that these control arm bushes will provide torsional resistance (rather than simply acting as a free-motion pivot). It would be interesting to know what the durometer rating of the Nissan OE rubber bushes was in as-new condition. Anybody? It would also be interesting to know how the durometer rating of the OE rubber bushes drops with age. I wonder, for example, what value it has sunk to by the time the rubber is 45 years old?
  13. I'm always impressed by how fast and tidy you manage to work through these panel repair jobs! Big thumbs up. For humor value, I thought you might enjoy this picture that will illustrate how those pine cones manged to find their way into the car's fresh air ducts... (This was a very hard-working squirrel!)
  14. Is that a thumbscrew right under the fulcrum of the main lever that lets you control the depth of your cut? I like the concept, but except for open-access areas where you're able to use the collar, it would seem to be just an air-powered drill with a set of spot-weld cutter bits. The sleeve mount for the collar looks like it will allow a max throat opening of maybe 1-1/2"?
  15. Excellent result. Did any more pine cones or dead mice float to the surface? I have a complete set of door hinges off my original '72 if you come up short in your spares pile. The welding/brazing will undoubtedly have been the work of Deiter Roth (aka 'The Z Meister'), who ran a Z service/performance operation similar to Whiteheads out of a shop in north Oshawa. Deiter was one of the founders of the Ontario Z Owners Association and was a pretty fair hand with a wrench or a torch. He was the one who scouted this car for me back in 2007 (it belonged to a former client of his named Steve Tustin). Deiter and his wife were living in Port Hope when I last had contact a few years back.