Namerow

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Namerow last won the day on August 15 2016

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About Namerow

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  1. Figuring out the fuel level in the float chamber is easy. What we really need is for somebody to come up with a mechanism that allows the float level to be adjusted needing to remove the float chamber lid.
  2. If you have the opportunity to visit Ireland, check out this little museum in Waterville on the Ring of Kerry. It has a great display of cable samples and other equipment from the original trans-Atlantic cable-laying efforts... http://www.ireland.com/en-us/what-is-available/attractions-built-heritage/historic-houses-and-castles/destinations/republic-of-ireland/kerry/waterville/all/1-90308/ The Irish whiskey isn't bad, either.
  3. Most of that will buff right out...
  4. The section headings in Wick Humble's book provide a pretty good guide for reassembly steps.
  5. You're going to grind all those welds, right?
  6. I found Vintage Connections to be an excellent supplier. If you purchase connectors and terminals, make sure you also buy the small and large terminal removal tools (not v. expensive and worth every penny) and a ratcheting terminal crimping tool (VC has one for under $50 that produces good results with a bit of practice).
  7. Not sure exactly when they added these to their catalog (sometime during the past year, I think), but it turns out that Whitehead Performance (Toronto) has introduced an almost-full line of own-brand poly bushings for the 240-260-280 Z's. One of the key design features is the use of a material with a lower-than-usual durometer rating. Here's their write-up: "Whiteline Plus bushings provide the softness needed for street driven, low vibration, noise and harshness characteristics, while displaying extreme abrasion, tear and cut resistance, and near-zero compression set at a lower durometer reading of 70-80 (versus most poly bushings 100+ rating). In addition, Whiteline Plus polyurethane bushings are able to be bonded directly to the metal shell, which provide a method of flow control giving the bushing the characteristics of soft ride while on smooth roads, and when under cornering pressure cause the bushing to become firmer for improved suspension performance." T/C Rod kit - C $43 Steering Coupler kit - C $73 Front Inner Control Arm kit - C $59 Rear Outer Control Arms kit - C $64 Rear Inner Control Arms kit - C $90 Moustache Bar kit - C $71 That totals out at C $ 400 (about US $300), so they're definitely premium-priced (and no 'master kit' is being offered at this time). The typical PU master kits being sold by 'others' (which also include Steering Rack and Roll Bar bushings, plus 4 bump stops) are going for as little as US $200 c/o American vendors. Not saying that Whitehead is gouging on price. Instead, I think their prices just reflect the cost premium that comes with a small-volume production run. The sleeve-to-bush 'bonding' feature noted in the Whitehead write-up comes into play for the front-inner and rear-outer control arm pieces. It looks like they've paid proper attention to the design of the poly and metal pieces, so that these control arm bushes will provide torsional resistance (rather than simply acting as a free-motion pivot). It would be interesting to know what the durometer rating of the Nissan OE rubber bushes was in as-new condition. Anybody? It would also be interesting to know how the durometer rating of the OE rubber bushes drops with age. I wonder, for example, what value it has sunk to by the time the rubber is 45 years old?
  8. I'm always impressed by how fast and tidy you manage to work through these panel repair jobs! Big thumbs up. For humor value, I thought you might enjoy this picture that will illustrate how those pine cones manged to find their way into the car's fresh air ducts... (This was a very hard-working squirrel!)
  9. Is that a thumbscrew right under the fulcrum of the main lever that lets you control the depth of your cut? I like the concept, but except for open-access areas where you're able to use the collar, it would seem to be just an air-powered drill with a set of spot-weld cutter bits. The sleeve mount for the collar looks like it will allow a max throat opening of maybe 1-1/2"?
  10. Excellent result. Did any more pine cones or dead mice float to the surface? I have a complete set of door hinges off my original '72 if you come up short in your spares pile. The welding/brazing will undoubtedly have been the work of Deiter Roth (aka 'The Z Meister'), who ran a Z service/performance operation similar to Whiteheads out of a shop in north Oshawa. Deiter was one of the founders of the Ontario Z Owners Association and was a pretty fair hand with a wrench or a torch. He was the one who scouted this car for me back in 2007 (it belonged to a former client of his named Steve Tustin). Deiter and his wife were living in Port Hope when I last had contact a few years back.
  11. Carburetor is a French word meaning, 'Leave it alone'.
  12. Very nicely done (esp. the installation guide). I think you're going to enjoy a fairly decent amount of trade from this.
  13. Re hatch logo arrangements, I vote for #1. Re the steel helicoil inserts: There's still going to be a steel-into-aluminum thread. However, the load face (thread contact area) for helicoil-into-hub is going to be a lot bigger than it would be for the bolt-into-hub alternative, so that's a good thing. I wonder if it might be better, though, to go to interference-fit steel inserts (internal thread only). Heat the hub, chill the insert, tap into place. You've left a pretty broad shoulder outboard of the bolt holes, so I don't think an interference-fit insert is going to cause cracking to the outside face.There are well-established engineering principles to calculate the amount of interference required (based on male and female part materials and on the inside/outside diameters of the insert). Hopefully, someone who's active in design engineering can help out. A good machinist would probably know, too, just based on experience. Seat-of-the-pants guess is 0.003" - 0.004".
  14. Chris (and everyone else following this thread) will probably enjoy viewing the before/after shots featured under the 'Projects' tab on this dip shop's website: www.metaldipping.com Their projects include a 1976 Z, along with an Austin-Healey and a lot of American iron (easy to see now why people say that Healeys drive like a truck!). This looks to me like it may be a caustic (lye) dip tank rather than acid... but I didn't investigate very hard and I could be wrong. For their Z project, it's interesting to seethat the dip process apparently didn't strip the asphalt sound-deadening pad off the floors. Another observation is that the process may require re-tuning your eyes to be able to spot the rusted areas after the car has been treated. What was easy to see c/o visible red oxide is no longer quite so obvious. I like this shop's business strategy for offering an epoxy primer service to its customers. Probably a great investment and convenience for most of their customers (unless the shop's prices are out of line). Looking forward to seeing the 'during' and 'after' photos for Chris's Z.
  15. Stanley's correct. It's the port for the coolant transfer tube that links the front and rear intake manifolds. A rubber O-ring is used at the base of each hole to provide an additional seal. These holes are tapped for a BSPT (British Standard Pipe Thread) fitting. That's not a metric thread, by the way. The threaded plugs you ordered from the Amazon supplier probably use the American pipe thread design. They won't work (as you've discovered). Given that someone has already removed the coolant transfer tube (and thrown it away?), it appears likely that your car has this secondary coolant circuit completely disabled (it's designed to assist engine cold start and warm-up and many Z owners have found it unnecessary for the climate conditions where they drive) . As such, there's doesn't seem to be any need -- other than aesthetics -- to block off these open holes at all. The coolant passages within the intake manifold don't connect to any air passages, so whether these coolant ports are open or blocked should have no effect on the operation of the engine. That said, if it was my car, I'd find the correct BSPT fittings and install them. You'll need two plugs for each manifold (total of 4).