Namerow

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Namerow last won the day on August 15 2016

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About Namerow

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  1. Silly question, but it needs to be asked: Is there any chance that you plumbed the valve back into the system backwards?
  2. Suggestion: Buy some plastic rod (black, if you can find it) of the appropriate outside diameter. Cut an appropriate length, with an inch or so extra that can be chucked in a drill press (preferred) or an electric hand drill. File a rounded contour onto one end. Then drill out the core to suit the diameter of the lever rod on the seat. Cut of the end that was chucked in the drill/drill press. Spray paint with satin black, with particular attention to the two end surface. When the paint had dried adequately, epoxy it in place on the seat lever rod. Cut a length of heat shrink tube and apply over the flat length of the nylon piece. Heat to shape. Done. The original piece isn't exactly soft to the touch, so you won't be giving up much in feel by using the hard nylon and shrink-tube covering. The original piece has a bit of a taper to it, but no one will notice that your 'faux' cover is straight.
  3. Nice looking car, DJ. Seems bargain-priced at $20K . I know it's subjective, but -- for me -- this is one of the few exterior/interior color combos I've seen where the blue interior trim seems to work well. GLWTS.
  4. It's a form of 'acoustic duct lining' and it's there as an airflow silencer. Not sure how effective the end result is. You'd need to try a the system 'with' and 'without' to decide. BTW, I did this same job myself a couple of years ago. It's very time-consuming. There are a lot of foam gaskets in the Z's heater/blower/vent/duct system and some have very tricky shapes (esp. the piece in your photo). Many need have holes punched out for joint fasteners. Rather than use contact cement to try to glue new foam in place (messy), try making your own adhesive-backed foam by bonding the foam to two-side-adhesive-backed clear vinyl sheet (8-1/2" x 11" -- available at craft stores). Leave the peel-off paper in place on one side of the vinyl sheet. Now draw your gasket templates onto a piece of 8-1/2" x 11" printer paper and use a glue stick (stationery supply store) to glue the paper to the vinyl backing sheet. Now you can use a razor knife, scissors, hole punches, etc. to cut out your gaskets. When done, peel off the backing sheet from the vinyl-backed foam and stick in place. Most of the gaskets should be about 1/16" thick, installed. I used 1/8" open-cell foam (compresses down to 1/16"), but I think some craft stores sell adhesive-backed, closed-cell neoprene sheet in 1/16" thickness that might be an equally good . Don't use the 1/4"-thick adhesive-backed foam 'tape' that hardware stores sell for home weatherstripping. It's too thick and the end results I've seen in photos look pretty marginal. The foam covers for the two big 'flapper' doors need to be top-faced with thin, upholstery-type vinyl. If you don't do this, the foam will wear off quickly around the perimeter, where it seats on the ridge in the housing. The gasket that's the most difficult to get right is the one around the perimeter of the heater plenum, where the removable end plate installs (for access to the heater matrix).
  5. OK, I'll bite. How does the same car get listed from two different locations at the same time? (not to mention, at wildly different prices)
  6. Lots of speculation over why these shades were used. No definitive explanation that I'm aware of.
  7. From bench testing, I found that the impellers from my 70 Z (impeller made of metal) and my old 72 Z (impeller made of plastic) weren't terribly sensitive to which direction they were rotating in. When I inspected the impeller from the Honda Civic blower that I had bought mostly for its more modern motor, I discovered that its blades were oriented in the opposite direction to the Z impellers. I also discovered that the Honda impeller was very direction-sensitive and -- when turning in its preferred direction -- was both more powerful and quieter than the Z impeller. My conclusion: The Z impellers aren't a particularly good design. Recommend you try both your TYC and original impellers in the Z blower casing, just like I did. That will let you choose which one you like best (for output and noise) and will also tell you the direction in which it needs to rotate to produce best results.
  8. From my experiences with resurfacing the dash for my '70 Z: The black vinyl skin will tear, not 'peel', off the underlying foam. There'll be a lot of craters and voids generated in the foam and that will add to the challenge of getting the final shape of the new-foam substrate the right size and shape. Arguably better to grind the vinyl off than to try to pull it off. Wear a dust mask! The contour sanding of the top and front finished surfaces is very difficult to get right. Same goes for the gauge pod recesses. For what you're suggesting, the challenge will be not just to restore the contours but also the overall dimensions (i.e. You'll be trying to build back the correct shape in 3D space relative to the sheet metal armature). I hope I never have to do this particular job again. From what I've seen, 'Just Dashes' do great work. They, too, have to shape and contour the Z dash's very complicated 3D shape in (new) foam before they vacuum-form the vinyl top layer in place. Lots of hand labor, so US$1500 seems reasonable. Unfortunately, that's just the base cost. There's also crating and 2-way shipping, shipping insurance, and sales tax. Probably Cdn $2500 - $3000 for us poor Canucks when all is said and done. Not saying your idea won't work, Blue, and I like it in concept. However, there will be lots of challenges along the way. If you've got a cap and a spare dash to use as a sacrificial victim, I'm sure we'd all like to see how you make out.
  9. Interesting. I have on from my 70 Z with exactly the same granulated surface deterioration of the slotted black plastic 'grommet'. I was going to try to replace it, but now I can see that it's actually 'patina'. So that means my selling price just went up by 100%. Bids?
  10. Re your leather gloss issue for the door panel material, why not just try a coat of paste wax (or, if it makes you feel better, clear shoe polish)? Alternatively, check to see whether SEM (or a competitor) offers a satin finish clear for use with vinyl and leather. Suggest you have a look at 'Parasol' (Toronto). They will custom-mix and ship to your door. I had very good results with their products.
  11. Listed by ZCar Depot @ $119.00... https://zcardepot.com/engine/cooling-heating/coolant-line-bypass-pipe-crossover.html?limit=128
  12. Are the contact points in the Z's switchgear actually made from silver?
  13. Where have the mice been living while you've been remodeling their home?
  14. I haven't tried to do this myself (yet), but your picture gave me an idea... Try using two loops of fine-diameter fishing leader line (plastic) to tie and knot the spring into compression. Position your loops at the 12 and 6 o'clock position of the spring circumference. Drop the seal, the valve and the spring into place. The two loose ends from each loop of line will stick out of the bore. Insert the circlip, with the loose ends of lines going through the centre. Once the circlip is clicked in place, use an X-acto blade to cut the loops of line and then use tweezers to pull the remains out of the bore. It might work.
  15. While browsing vendor sites this morning, I discovered that MSA are now offering new replacement aluminum door sill plates (aka 'threshold plates') with the 'Datsun' logo. Another 'unicorn' Z part now available for purchase, after years (decades?) of being NLA. $179 for a pair. With Distinctive Industries now making replacement door cards with OE-look vinyl trim (apparently in all colours -- not just black), that looks after two of the most-visible, but traditionally hardest-to-find, parts for a Z interior restoration.