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Richard McDonel

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  • Content count

    108
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About Richard McDonel

  • Rank
    Registered User

Social Contacts

  • MSN
    reservef@telusplanet.net

Contact

  • Map Location
    Red Deer, Alberta

Profile

  • Gender
    Male
  • Occupation
    SCFI

My Z Cars

  • Zcars Owned
    240z
  • About My Cars
    '71 240Z HLS30 28726
    '78 Mercedes 450SEL
    Various boring transportation appliances
  1. Winter Blend Fuel

    In my still-running '78 Mercedes 450 I use only ethanol-free - that's Shell Premium where I live. In my 240Z - which I just drove around the block last weekend for the first time ever, some restorations needing more time than others - I plan to use nothing but ethanol-free. Now if I were to drive either car in the winter I think I would would still run the good gas, but just add a small bottle of gas-line de-icer (methyl alcohol) every few tanks With respect to whether to winter-store the cars with full or empty tanks, I drain in the fall to get any rust-causing moisture out of the system, then fill it to the max with good gas and a bottle of fuel stabilizer. I guess I could drain the tank and leave it dry all winter, but I prefer to start and run the engine every month or so as weather permits. Now having said that, I profess no qualifications as a chemist and am only taking the word of others with respect to the efficacy of stabilizer. So far it hasn't caused me any grief.
  2. door window nylon guide

    7tooZ Bingo! This is not the car I started with, but is a relatively rust free beater I hauled up from Phoenix, Arizona, where the paint and upholstery had baked for decades.
  3. door window nylon guide

    7tooZ Thanks - I'll heed your advice and go with lighter stuff. But having said that, mine would seem to be one of those mysteries to be found in most close-to-half-century cars. I have no idea why someone would install this hyper-heavy grease (meant for use on railway couplers? I have no idea).
  4. door window nylon guide

    If I may pile in on this discussion, albeit slightly off topic. I am just in the process of reassembling the window mechanism, and as a couple of others have mentioned here that includes greasing the sash assembly. When mine came apart it had an extremely heavy grade of grease. This was stuff you didn't wipe off with a rag, but rather scraped and pried off. It was real grease, but nothing you could ever run through a grease gun. Is that kind of grease a factory installation that should be replaced with like, or is normal chassis grease OK?
  5. '70-'71 choke cable

    With bits and pieces of three 240s laying around, I find myself building a 1971, but with only one choke cable on hand, that being apparently from a '72-'73. Too short. I would like to buy a good or restorable '70--'71 cable. Cash, or trade for mine if you like. Thanks
  6. Best way to rebuild

    Joe, How much experience / practice at painting have you had? By following instructions, we back-yard restorers can assemble the engine, the suspension, and all that mechanical stuff, and if we get something wrong unfasten and reassemble, but painting, based on my limited experience, is very much a practiced art. Unless you have something less valuable than your 240Z - perhaps a friend's stock car - to practice on, I'd let the pros do the paint. Guaranteed, your first try will not turn out looking like those photos posted by Motorman7.
  7. Different choke cables

    Thank you CanTech! Richard
  8. Different choke cables

    I'm restoring (assembling) a 1971 240. Too many parts from too many cars can cause confusion. I have one choke cable assembly, and pulled tight, the cables barely reach the choke levers, in fact full open choke is not achievable. I notice in various catalogues that there is a different part number from 1970/71 vs. 1972. Is the difference between the two cable lengths? Or does the difference lie in the mounting position of the lever on the console? Thanks
  9. Nice Guy, Nice Car (240dkw)

    SteveJ, You're partly right. It says "Oh Sorry" in both official languages.
  10. Nice Guy, Nice Car (240dkw)

    Hi Dan, Glad to see you and your car getting some recognition. Looks good on you! BTW; Fired up the engine in my 240 resto for the first time today. Music to my ears, after all these years. Many thanks for all your help and advice along the way. Cheers, d***
  11. 240 Z article

    Just got my September Road & Track in the mail today. They have a three-page feature on the original 240Zs. Nothing really new for most of us, but great to see our car back in the news.
  12. brake proportioning valve

    Namerow, Here is the reverse side view of the two seals. Don't know if it will solve anything for you. There is a market opportunity out there that someone is missing out on. Certainly the need is there; a part that the fsm says cannot be repaired, with the only option being to buy a new one, but the factory doesn't make new ones. Someone must have the tools and the knowledge to rebuild these these things. For myself, I'm just grateful that Grannyknot was able to come through for me with a workable used unit. I'm one step closer to putting my many-year project on the road.
  13. brake proportioning valve

    grannyknot, Mea culpa! I forgot the great price (free) that you offered. Again, my thanks. Best regards, Richard McDonell
  14. brake proportioning valve

    Namerow, You and I have been sold different kits. The O-ring is fine, but the other seals in my kit differ from yours. I hope the attached photo is clear in showing the the seal that I - rightly or wrongly - mounted at the bottom (inner) end of the stem has notches around the perimeter. Neither of yours appears to have these. Their purpose? While it is always a source of great satisfaction to solve a difficult problem such as presented by the brake proportioning valve, I am grateful to Grannyknot for selling me a workable used unit. I am now able to get on to the thousand and one other little items that have my restoration project many moons behind what I originally envisioned. Perhaps a plea to the overall membership of this forum for a good, used unit? Best wishes,
  15. Globalization

    I've often heard that a typical car manufactured in North America will cross an international boundary five times during the course of manufacture. Last week I found out why. Last week I was replacing front wheel bearings and seals on my 240. The local Nissan dealer, bless 'em, had what I needed, specifically an inner bearing, an outer bearing and a seal. So I'm buying parts in Canada for a Japanese car. I get three packages, all marked SKF - a Swedish bearing manufacturer. The seal is made in Taiwan, the inner bearing Brazil, and the outer bearing China. Nothing made in Sweden, Japan, or North America. Must be a good time to be in the shipping business.
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