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Showing results for tags 'rough idle'.
Found 4 results
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I recently had a problem getting a 83 turbo Z. It has a Crane Fireball ign. system, and I was thinking no start was related to a faulty component in this system. Turned out to be no power to CAS due to bad connection. As soon as I fixed this she started, and ran, athough not so great. I have installed new plugs, wires, rotor, dist. cap,and air filter along with oil change. Now she starts, and even idles decently except at around 1500 rpm instead of 750 rpm. When I actuate throttle, she backfires and dies when cold. If I let her warm up decently, and then hit throttle, she will still backfire,{ through exhaust} but she will stay running. I should also mention that gas tank had less than an eighth of a tank of stale gas in it. The original owner thought he would do me a favor and put 5 dollars in vehicle, which Iappreciatted. The only problem is that he didnt drain old gas, just added new gas to the stale stuff. I wouldnt think that this would cause a serious problem as Ime having. What do you guys think?Also, do you think this could be related to bad CAS? It has symptoms like a timng chain jumped, or some other timing problem. Is there a way to test CAS without an ocsilloscope or engine analyzer,as I have neither? Thanks to all members and guests for help in past. I love all my Z's, but we all know how tempermental they can be. Thanx again. -
Hello, my baby is having trouble idling and accelerating. I just recently installed MS2 in her so I could surpass the issues I was having with the electrics. However, the problems I was having before are almost the same as the problems now. A very rough idle and no acceleration in the rpm. I have replaced the coil, distributor, plugs, plug wires, fuel filter, ECU (to MS2), and the fuel regulator. I hooked the distributor up to my laptop and the board and spun it around with a drill and got rpm on the screen, so I think that works. The coil is working too because cranking it over unhooked give plenty of spark. I did a check on the fuel pressure after the fuel filter and got 37psi with the ignition on (the pump wont shut off when the car is on on, not start.. Maybe some feedback with this too please? I know it needs to be linked to the MSII board) while cranking it over I received 34-35psi so I ruled fuel pressure out... I know the plugs get spark because after the initial cranking the car will run for 30 seconds perfectly (from the CSV) then start to idle rough then die. That is, IF the car starts. Sometimes it just cranks over and doesn't start.. instead what happens is a big sneeze and puff of white smoke pours from the intake, along with some oil from the PCV system. Another thing that isn't up to shape is the tach, which doesn't work anymore... which I think should be hooked up to the negative side of the coil but has decided that it doesn't like the new coil or the new EFI system... I have many issues... Maybe an enthusiast who knows their way around these systems can lend a helpful hand! Thanks! -
Hello, Me and my dad just recently installed a MSII V3.0 into a 280z and have been having trouble getting the car to run properly. It will idle rough, bog when revving, stall for no reason..etc.. We've done everything in TunerStudio to try and make the car run at least decent. But, rich or lean with extreme advance or retarded in spark makes no difference. So we've come to the conclusion that the original electrics on the car are the problem. The fuel pressure is at a solid 30psi and through numerous tests of the injectors, we know they all work no problem. Testing the connectors going to the injectors shows that they're all fine too. It all comes down to the ignition system. I've been going through the 280 EFI bible and looking through the trouble shooting part and so far I've come up empty handed. Doing some volt meter tests on the car show that the coil is now not getting any relative voltage at all... even though it is brand new... looking back through the electrics on the passenger side of the car where the sea of wires live, I know that connector C3 would hold the connection between the coil and wherever in the ignition it goes. The connector was fine and I tried to follow the connection back further but got lost so I need someone to tell me what I should look for to determine what's causing this issue. And if anyone knows what else might be causing the car to act so strange please leave a response. It was acting like this when the coil worked too. Thanks!
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The car starts up pretty well, though every once in a while it'll immediately die, and takes some coaxing with the accelerator to get it to stay running. When idling, at first rpms will hover around 800-850, then slowly drift down. The car starts running rough, rumbling, until it gets down below 700 rpms and dies. Also, when coming to a stop and idle after swift acceleration, the car stinks of exhaust fumes and gasoline. Is this a fuel injector problem? I was going to replace my fuel filter; would that be a waste before i know what's causing the problem? --------------------- 1976 280z Automatic