DeesZ

Very, very nice. You have done well.

I think you have done well with the description and representation. You've said more than many other sellers would have.

A Stealth Z! Great anti-theft device. I want one too.

I like the color lenses much better on your car as well! As you said, 'to each his own', but IMHO your car looks sharper since the change.

Ron, that mesh isn't even showing any signs of wear. Honestly, you'll likely be pleased with almost any tightly woven metal screen. Just be certain that you can see through it well. And you are right, I've put the cabinet through the paces. I can't afford the upper end equipment of this nature new, so I have found used units for both my cabinet and compressor. 4K for the equipment new.... $700. used.... Just be patient and picky and you can do the same thing.

Hi, Ron (geezer) and anyone interested. Sorry I didn't get back to this sooner. The mesh that protects my blasting cabinet window is NOT plastic, it is a tightly woven metal mesh. (I apologize for mistakenly advising that it is plastic. A friend has one that has a plastic mesh, and I confused the two I guess). It's a rather stiff mesh, too. It is held on with nuts, bolts, and washers - a very simple set-up. Under normal use, the cabinet window won't be taking a direct blast from the gun anyway, so what it is deflecting has already lost a fair amount of its speed and impact power. I checked the parts list that I have and it only lists "window glass covers", not a screen. My unit, although a Snap-On system, was actually manufactured by a company known as "dee-blast" in Stevensville, MI. The owner, Al Johnson has been quite helpful to me several times. Their web-site is/http://www.dee-blast.com/ I'll attach a picture so you can see what I'm talking about. This is looking in from the side and up at the window.

My Pertronix installation has no jump wire, nor do I recall it being required by the instructions. IIRC, the Pertronix installation instructions included keeping the ballast resistor in the circuit (at least for a 'stock' coil).

I have no experience with the relay kit, but I have experienced the same symptoms on my '72 240Z. They persisted until I finally changed out the old battery cables for new ones. Seems that despite the fact they 'looked' good, they were not. Many electrical gremlins disappeared when I put in the new cables. (This was, of course, after all connections had been cleaned up several times.) de

You said right up front that the battery is good.... In my mind, I keep coming back to the battery as being the culprit. I could be way off base, but I'd go back and check the battery to be certain it is good with voltage and amps.

My cabinet (Snap-On) came with a very fine mesh plastic screen. It has saved the glass any damage for years.

Soooo well put bigoak!! As my wife once said, 'better to relive your youth with a car than several alternatives that come to mind....' Hmmmmm. I question that now and again, but she's right. Nice looking car! I got my first one a few weeks after coming off of active duty. What a joy it was. I'm on my third one now, with no thoughts of bailing out (unless a better one comes along dirt cheap). Best of luck. Keep in touch with this board - the knowledge base is simply incredible!

Guinness - straight up (stout, not extra stout) - gets my vote.

Congratulations! This is a wonderful life-changing time for you. I was in this position about 15 years ago. Enjoy every moment because they will pass quickly. What revelations a child can bring.... as an example, the true meaning of 'unconditional love' eluded me until my boy came along, and that's just one of many things I learned through the experience. As for the "kit"..... how about a 240Z that you, then you and he, can work on?

I agree with Dave about media blasting some parts with glass beads. It's quick and gives results that are pleasing to the eyes. For the domes and bodies, I'd hand polish Example: Before (pretty much a basket case): After glass beading:

I've done a dozen of them in the last several years (see the pictures in my gallery for samples). I find it easiest to just rub a light coat of wax on the high ribs and letters, then paint the whole thing. Then I come back with sandpaper and a narrow block of wood to sand off the paint and at the same time bring the high metal surfaces to a nice bright shine. You can develop any shine on it up to a very polished look depending on where you stop with grades of sandpaper. Generally I then spray the whole cover with a topcoat of high temp clear (gloss or matte - I prefer matte). Here's a few samples & lots more pix in the gallery.

Congratulations on the upcoming project! You will find all of the knowledge you need on this site. Great assortment of equipment! I'm envious. Was that the blue z sitting in York (M&M Auto, or something like that?) I'm about 1.5hrs up the road.....

For #3, I went on the same search for information about 18 months ago. The most consistent recommendation was 'Spicer'.

Very, very nice! I may have to look into a set of those down the road a bit.

In my area for a car that runs and passes the state safety inspection $1K is about the starting price. I agree with BD240Z about the "just rebuilt" point. Ask the seller how many miles are on it since the rebuild - the definition of "just" means different things to different people.

Welcome, Nate! Patience will be your friend with this project! You will find this community quite helpful and very informative. Keep us up to date with what you find. Nice low SN, and remember, almost anything can be fixed if you are determined to do so. Please post some pictures.

Beautiful, Dave! You do nice work, thanks for sharing. Same question about if you use anything to stall off corrosion.

There is at least one wrong one in the "How to Rebuild" book..... the 30+fp that is listed for the cam towers is way off. Ask me how I found out.....

There was a thread a while back about someone needing one, but I cannot find it anywhere. IIRC they talked about testing it for functionality, etc. Maybe I'm dreaming..... Anyway, I am not & never have been a EFI guy, but ended up with one or two of them from past projects with other people. They look like new, but can they be tested to verify that they work? If so, I can test and make them available if they work. (Sorry, I have no EFI reference material or knowledge beyond carbs.)