DeesZ

Welcome aboard, Ben! Nice looking '73. You'll find a wealth of information here to assist with enjoying the ownership and maintenance.

Great! Based on that, you have a "numbers matching" car. Your engine has not been replaced. In my opinion that is a very positive point. The door jamb plate will also show a date of production. I'd be guessing February (just a WAG based on my number). Here's several pix of her '72 sister.

Welcome! Please post some pictures! We like pictures as they tell a lot of the story. As for '72 production (if I understood your question correctly), you will not have a "low number" car as they are often referenced on this site. Often our guys are speaking of early run vehicles manufactured in 1969/70. Your VIN, HLS30-?????, is your number. Check the driver side door jamb and engine compartment at the right strut tower for data plates. You will find the VIN in three places, on these two plates and engraved on the firewall just above the master vac. They should all match. The door plate will also give you the date of manufacture, and the strut tower plate will give you the original engine number as well. The engine number can be found on a flat on the block just below spark plugs #5 & #6. Sounds like a nice car. Same color combination as mine. What you do with it is your call. IMHO I'd keep it stock, but that's me, not you.

Welcome! Nice location IMHO, sunny Charlotte NC - I have family there. This site will serve you very well when it comes to acquiring and maintaining a Z-car. There is a lot to learn about with respect to 'what to look for' or 'what to avoid'. Take your time looking for the 'right' car. It's out there, and patience will repay you kindly by helping you avoid the hundreds of pig-in-a-poke rides that are out there. (If I was to do it again, I'd likely spend more up front for a better specimen to begin my ownership - just food for thought.) There are lots of discussions among us on cars being sold, so there is probably no better place to be to get an education on what to look for.

Welcome! I'll be looking forward to hearing about your progress. I think you will find your ride to be pretty sweet in its stock form, at least for starters. Consider getting it on the road safely in its present configuration, then make a determination which direction you wish to pursue first (e.g. engine performance or handling). As for that clunk in the rear, check your u-joints on the driveshaft and your half-shafts before going much further. If you get lucky it may be a low cost repair. I'm sure someone else will have another suggestion or two as well. (It's a rare occasion that a diff gives up the ghost on these beasts.) You will find a wealth of information among the members at this site as well as a great willingness to assist. I get the impression that you have been digging through the archives for information. That's always a great place to begin. The 'search' feature has enlightened me on many things and rarely lets me down. Keep us updated and post more pictures! p.s. Please update your profile with a few specifics about your car... It still shows "none yet" with respect to ownership.

I inquired about it. The seller related the following to me.... "the frame rails have been replaced in the engine compartment from what i can tell, they beefed them up for a v8 conversion and the battery box area has also been replaced. the floor pans have been started in repair work. as for the interior, it was not in the car when i got it......" The price will have to drop in half for me to take a two hour drive just to see it. You may feel differently.

My personal opinion is to go without it. But if you like it, don't worry about what other people think.

Media blasting will give you pleasing results as well. See the attached picture. I used glass beads on this one with an overcoat of high-temp clear.

It sounds as if it may be fuel starvation. I had similar intermittent symptoms. I suspect a piece of junk may be blocking the fuel pick-up in the tank at times. With a fuel pump of unknown origin, it may be worth taking a look at it to see if it has a filter installed between it and the tank. Just my thoughts - hope they help.

On the bright side, the information may be pertinent to someone searching archives for switch problems. Consider it an 'added value' to a retired thread and the archive.

Damper oil - My FSM dated 1972 recommends "Mobile Oil SAE 10W-30 for damper oil. Do not use SAE #30 or higher weight oils." If you wish to check the reference, this is found in the book under Engine, Fuel System, SU-Type Twin Carbs, Page EF-26. There may be other references in the book as well, but I came across this last night while researching something else. I hope it helps. (I have also successfully used SAE 5W-30, Marvel Mystery Oil, and 3-in-1 oil.)

Here's an "OK" sticker that's on one of my NOS cam covers. Unfortunately I cannot recall the year of manufacture. Can anyone tell by the design of this sticker what an approximate year would be?

You do want to get this right the first time.... Here's a short 'how-to' by one of our members http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=35670&highlight=timing+chain Also, the search function will give you lots of returns on this issue. You will find the time invested is well spent. Keep us up to date with your progress.

My Z museum would house one of each 'series', unrestored in excellent condition, and strictly stock.

Gaskets: http://www.polarbearinc.com/PBPC/homepage/Search/GA/Seals_GA_Fiber1.html#Anchor-61374 A Google search will likely uncover sources for rebuilt units for $25 ~ $50 USD as well. I found several for $20 several years ago when toying with the idea of replacing the one in my car. I opted to remove the complete unit as it was in the way of almost anything that I wanted to do (and it didn't come from the factory with ac anyway in my case).

Gaskets: http://www.polarbearinc.com/PBPC/homepage/Search/GA/Seals_GA_Fiber1.html#Anchor-61374

Ditto. I did exactly the same as Bonzi Lon with the rubber. The hold down bracket should be enough, but the extra precaution provides some extra peace of mind.

I think you will find it's a 24N. 24F will work as well. The difference is the placement of the +/- terminals, and therefore the length of the cables will need to be checked if you are changing from one to the other. I'm running on memory here, so perhaps someone can verify.

Stephen could very well be right.... You could also check around the cam cover for a leak, or perhaps loose bolts at the fuel pump where it attaches to the head. You'll have to do some poking around to track down the origin. Where is it dripping at? And is this after it has been 'driven', or just sitting there warming up? Feed us a few more clues.

Well put. Being up front with shipping services and costs is standard operating procedure for most sellers on eBay. Those of us with experience will ask for details if they are not listed. Those with less experience likely will not ask and become prey for the seller who conceals the details. I learned the hard way many years ago to ask if it's not listed. I've listed and sold thousands of items on ebay and wouldn't do so without those details. Every seller template that I have seen requests shipping details, so if they are left out, it is by intention or laziness.

That write-up contradicts itself about the engine numbers, too. Large price for a car being sold as not-running salvage.

Welcome aboard! You are at the right place, A present from the wife!! How nice!

Check the bulbs. I had a VR go south on me, and it blew every bulb that was on at the time (which was most of them)...... FWIW

To each their own. Different tastes and preferences is what makes life interesting. Otherwise we'd all be driving the same thing and be married to women that all look alike. To someone this is a dream car. To some others it's a butcher job. Personally, I didn't care for it at first, but the more I think about it, the more I like it. FWIW.

I suggest you test it and report your finding along with some good pictures of the faceplate. As with most other things, if they are broken they are worth a fraction of the value of a good one. You'll likely then get some reasonably accurate estimates.