DeesZ

I've seen some nicer 'refresh' jobs than this one. As y'all stated, there are some obvious issues, and it is far from 'restored' (in my dictionary that leads one to believe 'returned to it's original condition). Also note the 'fitment' issues with the hood (uneven gaps between fenders) and hatch (sits a bit 'in' from the rear corner of the fender, and in other pix doesn't seem to be flush with the surrounding surfaces)... I usually don't like to pick at the cars of others, but the written representation for this one doesn't fit the visual one. Why would a car with 30K mi. show so many issues and replacements?

I agree with Beandip that there is "something else going on" in there. In addition to the good advice already provided, be careful not to mix the parts up from one carb to the other when reassembling them. In other words, make sure the same dome and piston go on the same carb body that they came off of originally. (A suggestion here would be to do one carb at a time to prevent the possibility of mixing up the parts.) As for damper oil, I have used all of the previously mentioned suggestions at one time or another - MMO even works well in some carbs, straight or mixed with your choice of motor oil. I have pretty much settled in using 3-in-1 oil for years to provide the effect of 20W, and it has worked well for me and my needs for normal driving. It also is readily available in the small quantities that you will need, easy to put in with the tiny little spout it comes with, and easy to safely/cleanly store until needed the next time you need it. Please keep us up to date with your findings.... It is the final resolution to so many problems that often don't get posted here....

Hi, TomoHawk.... They are handy little things, and have made some tasks really simple for my memory challenged moments. Speaking of 'memory', I have no clue where I got them..... been in the garage for a long time, but one set will last a lifetime. They come in a small 'book' and the numbers are peel & stick... They are great for almost any wiring project. Here's a lead for them that I found on the Internet.... http://wd.wescodist.com/cultures/en-us/Products/ProductListDetail.aspx?pik=22145&productId=22145&getyourprice=1 and another: http://www.electricsupplyonline.com/prod/gb-misc.php I suspect that they would be available at many electronics / electrical supply stores, too... Product Name: Wire Markers Manufacturer: Gardner Bender, Inc. Catalog Number: 42-027 You must grab your seat when the price pops up.... $20.+ per book, but they are worth it.

Thanks, Stephen! I have an inquiry in with him about a few things at this point. I suspect we'll be doing some business. Your suggestion and insight on this is greatly appreciated! John

Stephen, this is at auction on eBay... seller name is "blax240" location Nismo Heights.... The seller name hints at your description! Thank you for your feedback. This unit may be a solution for me. John

I do recall reading (in this forum, I think) about a misprint in the Haynes book related to firing order. IIRC, it was corrected for later editions. I searched the forum to find the information, but came up with no results. Here's a picture of a properly wired distributor on a '72 in case it can help you.

I think I am getting the idea - thank you very much for the details - I am electrically challenged. I did some Internet surfing last night and found this gem by Spal. Is this the answer (of course in addition to the recommendations that you have made)? Pictures attached. The description follows / price is about $25.00 USD. "This fused relay block works great to safely control your aftermarket fan(s), NOS, fuel pump(s), water pump, etc. The block includes two 12v/20a relays fused to a single 10a fuse. The block has provisions for up to 5 relays through 4 fused links. The cover protects the relays/fuses, while the wires cleanly route out the back. Eliminate multiple relays with one block unit."

I thank you for this, also, Nissanman! And thanks to Wingnut for asking the question in the first place. I've been considering relays for a fan, radio/amplifier, etc., as well as the headlight & tail light conversions being sold on this site. Your explanation makes the task seem like something I could do without frying my car (or myself). Taking the question a step farther, what recommendations are out there that would neatly 'consolidate' several relays and circuit fuses? When I do this I'd be trying to keep a neat appearance and an organized approach to adding the components. Any suggestions on location and equipment will be very welcome. I have a '72, and am running an internally regulated alternator, which gives me a bit of free space where the old VR was once mounted. What's been done out there to accomplish this? I'm sure someone makes a unit that will accept several relays, but I must be looking in the wrong places. Thanks!

Lehigh, PA... not far from Bath, right? (or am I way off there?) Not many Z-cars in the area, although I did just pick one up in Emaus.... If 'bad really comes to worse', I may have a sale and/or storage solution for you - about 2.5 hour drive for you on Rt 209..... where 209 meets the Susquehanna River...

I had no problems of that sort with my installation..... but yes, there was very little clearance as mentioned above - a bit less than the installation instructions called for if I recall correctly. I'm pleased with the unit and its performance.

IMHO it's the 1972. Thank God we have our differences in taste, or we wouldn't be able to afford the things we want.

Yep, what Arne said - ditto. It's a tough move from 35MM to digital - especially if you have a large investment in lenses, etc. - but if you enjoy photography, you will be happy that you did it. Some of the DSLR units are being made to accept the 35MM lenses, as well which takes some of the pain out of it. And having your own darkroom at your computer fingertips is simply fantastic.

I am not that well educated in this topic, but would an impact wrench be a suitable tool in this instance? The "hammering" effect has loosened many very sticky situations for me. Or is there a reason that this would not be recommended for this situation?

#305 still sits with no bids at a $10K opener & unknown reserve.... 5 hours remaining..... The 'free market invisible hand' hasn't gotten a grip on it yet.... Those last few minutes will be interesting (either way, bids or no bids).

That's $3,500.... 'reserve not met'..... I suspect the reserve price is much more than that, but it does get bidders involved when there is a low opening bid price. This one will be interesting to watch. I've been watching the prices on these for several years, and they sure are not going down.

You guys think it would look better in the factory grey than the black? Yes, I think the factory gray is the best option mentioned. It will be close to original, and in my opinion, by far the most appealing. Black would be a bit too much......

My personal opinion is that I prefer the original charcoal color. I have one original, and another painted the same color of the car, so I experience both every day..... If I put the second one back on the road it will be returned to a close to stock color. Again, that's only my opinion - if you really like the same-as-car color, go for it. Remember, it's yours, and your goal is not to please me.

I have been looking for a set for about two years, so I have a feeling for the price... The way I have experienced it, a real nice set without curb rash, etc. will likely be selling for around $500.00+ If you end up spending much less than that it seems that you end up buying a bunch of rash, etc., that will cost considerably to remedy (your time or your money). Actually I've seen them sell for about that much plus another $100.00 for shipping! Seems like the price on these has spiked in the last several years.... I guess there are too many boomers like me looking to have a set. I just got a real nice set of Western's with a whole car attached for that amount, so Libre's, as much as I'd love to have a set, will be taking the back seat until I stumble across a nice set that is priced to my taste. Good luck with that Arne.... If they are fairly priced don't let them sit too long while you think about it! Let me know how you make out. I'd like to share your joy on that find!!

I keep a hard copy handy.... I have enough trouble trying to figure out how to use the features on my cell phone, let alone a palm-thingy. Staying old school as demanded by my limitations (which at this stage in my life I can find no reason to overcome).

Not at all original here, but I use "the White One" and "The Red One". I did have "Goldie"... guess what color she was... Unfortunately Goldie has been reduced to boxed up spare parts in the garage, so I guess in a way she lives on. There is no question about them being hot-blooded females. They do like to be lavished with gifts, and tend to compete to see who can get the most attention, financial and otherwise.... And for some strange reason that I cannot begin to explain or understand, I enjoy doing it. (I suspect many of us here share that feeling.)

I have used the method Beandip described for years. A soda bottle and a piece of aquarium air hose has served me well for years on a variety of antique and classic vehicles. Although air bleeding back in at the threads may be an issue for some, I've never had the problem. I learned the method from the motor pool guys in the Army back in the early '70s.

What "size" would be of interest? I have a friend who knows something about this type of work, and I've floated an inquiry to her. No response yet, but I know the question of 'size' will come up real early in a discussion. Let me know how much interest there is in this as well. I have a background in printing, and from experience know that there is a better per unit price as the quantity increases. The majority of the costs are associated with preparation and set-up.

I'll have to let the experts address the left-side / right-side issue for cooling efficiency. If I am remembering correctly, you have more room on the left, but the air pump sticks out further on the left than the alternator on the right side, so "depth" is to be considered. I addressed it by putting mine into 'push' mode and installed in the front (which created other issues... they never end.) I will soon be going back to a stock clutch fan and shroud with a supplemental electric pusher on the front. I've concluded that the engineers had it pretty well figured out at the factory.... not perfect, and of course we have options today that weren't available back then, too. Another thought.... what is the amperage draw of your new fan? Will you have enough juice available to run it comfortably?

Yes, you must re-secure the pulley or it will come off with some consequences that you do not wish to face. It could just be the picture, but things look cockeyed with the pulley. Remove the belt to get rid of the tension on it so that you can get it tightened well in the correct position. Now is also the time to check the placement of your new fan to assure that you really have enough room to install it without interference from the pulley. You are making progress!! I should be out in the garage working on my cooling system too.... but it's such a good day to procrastinate!

Several for sale, but a bit salty ..... but if you need them, I guess it looks more reasonable...http://www.zcar.com/classifieds/index.php?method=showdetails&list=advertisement&rollid=39347&fromfromlist=classifiedscategory&fromfrommethod=showhtmllist&fromfromid=34&