hmsports

Looks like a 240 that's ready to have a baby!

Here's a link to a site that has the front covers of the manuals Manuals

Who needs/wants the factory air manual from my '71? Offers...

I've got the owners manual from my 71 for sale. It is in fair condition with the cover curled up some. Make me an offer:

I don't know if it works but I have a BELTEK Model C5700, Serial No. 181015 8-Track Stero Player that came out of the glove box of my '71. It is in fair condition, some chrome on the face is worn but has the 8-track player on the bottom with a BELTEK DATSUN FM Stereo receiver bracketed on top: It has DATSUN on the 8-track door and DATSUN on the FM dial face plate. Let me know what it is worth to you. Thanks, Rick

The most confusing days in the life of the Talaban's Camels and Donkeys... - Driver's education day and sex education day

I was going to say it sounds like you need a proctologist :classic: I race with a full welded 4.11 R180 using synthetic lube and have never had a problem with any leakage. I don't run a catch can either. The only thing I can think of is what Royce already mentioned - was the car level when it was checked and filled?

Talked to my crew chief today, he's a professional mechanic and owns his own shop. He says he will never use a remanufactured master cylinder -- especially one with an aluminum housing. He says that they have a high rate of failure.

Now you're getting personal, talking about my Mother-In-Law like that :classic:

I think that as long as you maintain them and clean/oil them correctly/regularly they will capture more dust and allow your engine to breath a bit better. Sure, you won't notice any huge power increase, but just as well treat your engine to some cleaner air. Plus over time, the cost savings of having to always replace your filter will add up.

Very funny! Hey if you can't laugh about it, you're being way too serious. While it was happening - all in slow motion, I couldn't help thinking 'hmmm, the grass shouldn't be at the top of my windshield...', then... BAM, it was over. Yes, I did walk away - actually ran away - the car was smoking - nothing burnt, just steam and hot oil. Immediately flipped all electrical switches off and bailed. Jumped to the wall and ran to the corner station. Engine was ok - will use again next year - the body was trashed. I do have to crack my back every so often and I had a torn muscle in my left abdomen, but other than that I can't wait to get back out there. "That which does not kill us makes us stronger". That's an old Rugby saying - had to give that up because it was too dangerous - racing is much safer :classic:

I think most folks who really love cars will agree with you carguyinok. There's a difference between the guy who takes pride in his car and does things within the limits of reality and taste - like a lot of the new breed tricking out their Hondas. Then there's the proverbial Ricer who thinks that you are looking at their car because it is the hottest machine in the world --- while really you are looking in total amazement that there are people out their whose shoe size is larger than their IQ. ...but the thing that amazes me is all the hotties that hang out with them?!?

I was cleaning up and found the right rear suspension from my racecar that was ripped from the car in my cartwheel wreck last August. I guess the force was more than I thought. Here's what's left: It was sitting to the left of the car - see the wreckage in my gallery - photo labeled 'Bad Luck at Gateway'.

I think it may be a custom front for the new Yugo Koral IN to make it look more like a 280ZX... Sorry. I did some checking and haven't found anything in any of my old catalogs that matches this. It looks similar to the Kaminaris a tiny bit but the openings on the skirt are too wide. I'll keep looking.

The weakest point of the Z's overhead cam when it comes to revving is the valve springs. They are not stout enough to handle much over 6500rpms. Over this, the valves tend to float. As the springs get weak, this limit is reduced. I would say it is not advisable to take a stock Z engine over 6K too often - and like Zvoiture and 240Z mention, 5500 is probably a good standard to shoot for.

My 71 street machine has the Crane Fireball XR3000 with the Crane Fireball PS91 performance coil. The installation was pretty easy. Haven't fired it up yet. My 72 has an Allison trigger into an MSD 6-AL. It performs wonderfully.

I'm not for certain but I'm sure that if they didn't bolt right up, the swap from a 240 R180 would be easy. I know the R180 from the front of a Nissan 4x4 requires the flanges swapped from a 240 R180.

Just a guess but maybe the float needs to be adjusted. At low rpm, the float is filling up and overflowing - at higher rpm, the amount of fuel being used is more than what can fill into the float.

I used some sand paper to knock of the majority of it - at least the foam. I didn't do anything else after that because I wasn't restoring mine. Try it on a corner to see if it will work for you. Don't forget to wear some googles.

Stock L24 Block, E31 head, cam, valves, springs, crank, rods, flywheel. Pistons are 40 over - crank, pistons, rods, flywheel all balanced - damper helps smooth things out. Turbo oil pump, external oil filter and cooler. Stock round-tops with tapered needles - runs 104 octane race fuel. Aluminum radiator with electric fan. Electronic distributor trigger with MSD 6-AL box. Exhaust gas temp gauge on #1 and #6 cylinder. Holley Blue fuel pump. SCCA ITS Legal - and very fast!

I'd say the first thing to do would be bleed the system. If you were getting no resistance and a little after you pumped a bit, that would be the symptoms. Also make sure, as carguyinok pointed out, that the slave is properly adjusted at the tranny.

It took about 30 minutes, but I got the new 72 master installed. All I did was swap the two lines that go from the master to the splitter. The only modification I had to do was bend the front line a bit to meet the new master. Now I only have to rebuild the calipers and replace the driver's side wheel cylinder and the brake system is ready to go.

mattymatmat, I have done this to both my race cars. I also use an aftermarket aluminum radiator. You can see a picture of my installation in my photo album - the shot labeled '72 ITS Prepped'. The installation kit is very easy.

This is exactly what the problem is. The 72 and later has the front/rear resevoirs reversed from the 70-71. The 70-71 replacement master cylinder is $150 - if you can find it. I purchased the rebuild kit but the rear (front) piston assembly won't come out of the bore. And I think the bore is a bit pitted so the core probably isn't usable anyway. A 72 and later master cylinder is only $36 from the local auto parts store. All I need to do is run the original lines in my 71 to the correct ports on the new master. Since I'm not concerned with originality of the car, this won't be a problem. I appreciate your 2 cents tough... that's what makes this a great club!

I finally got things figured out. I'm buying a replacement for a 1972 (at $36.00) installing it and reversing the two lines so the larger resevoir will coorespond to the front brakes as it should.