hmsports

Mike --- correct, I'm the goofy looking one in the racing suit. The guy in the blue duds is Dave Prokopf of Advanced Automotive. He is my crew chief -- well, this year, I'm his crew chief since I don't have a car and he is running a Toyota MR2.

Search for companies that preserve artwork or antiques. Much of the old paper that was used contains acid which over time self destructs. I believe there are ways to neutralize the acid. Maybe you can contact one of the larger libraries and get in touch with someone there that is in charge of preserving books. Laminating (called that in the US too) may also help by keeping the air from accelerating the acid. The only issue here is that it will not be original now. They make plastic sleeves for comic books -- maybe once you get it neutralized, you could keep them in there. You can still see them but it will help keep the oil from your hands off too. Best of luck.

I've raced on Yokohama tires -- it was about 7 years ago so I don't remember what model. They had great wear and very good performance for a less expensive tire. I don't think you can go wrong.

with Dave the Crew Chief

I like ToTheMax -- kind of gives a metalic feel to the site. Not quite sure about the colored tabs... The site is easy to navigate and you are doing a great job with it!

I contacted them and they don't make an LSD for the R-180 -- they said they have a plan to do so... someday.

- It's the front hub from a gatling gun? - An extruder used for making cheese puffs? Actually, is it a wheel spacer/adapter plate?

I have an MSD-6AL in my race car with an old Allison optical trigger. It works very well. My 71 street car has a Crane Fireball system that I purchased from MSA. It was easy to install but I haven't put in the electic fuel pump so I dont' know how it will perform.

There's a crack-down at work for internet access and also the boss is being a Male-Member with Ears so I can't surf as much as I would like to.

Thanks for the plug 2Many! Here's a look at one of my custom cages... Civic Cage Problem is I'm in St. Louis. I can offer any advice as far as good design/engineering for a cage. Rick

If activating the turn signal switch either direction lights the lamps, it would indicate to me that the switch is fine, but the relay may be to blame. Have you checked/replaced the blinker relay? Consult your service manual for it's location and procedure for replacing.

I got mine from JCWhitney. You may also be able to get them from Courtesy Nissan in Texas. Remove the front fender. Remove the door. Remove the kick panels and door sills. Once you have the new one, use it for a reference to see how far they extend forward and aft. I used an air chisel to break the old one lose. You could also get some spot weld drill bits from a company like Eastwood to keep the cutting down. The hardest part is where they tie into the a-pillar up front. The rocker is behind them. I chose to cut my rocker and butt weld it so I didn't have to get into the a-pillar. If you are making a show car you may want to do it right. Once the old one was removed, it was simply a matter of welding the new one in. They fit quite nicely. Oh, it was time consuming and frustrating.

I must agree with Michael. I have searched past threads many times before I ask a question. Sometimes saves me creating another thread.

'Blood, Sweat and Beers' The shade-tree mechanics credo

My head was out of whack quite a bit too... but my therapist took care of it :classic: Seriously, my E31 was warped .025 and my machinist was able to heat it and clamp it down to get it perfectly straight again without any machining. The company is here is St. Louis and they specialize in repairing heads. In fact, many dealers around the country send their problem stuff to them. Give them a call... maybe you can send it to them and they can take care of it. JCM Machine Shop 5655 Old Highway 21 Otto, MO 63051 (636) 942.4567 The owner's name is Charley. Be aware that they are usually quite busy... He did the machine work on my block and balanced everything for my race engine and built my E31 -- did a great job. Rick

Kind of looks like a really early Corvette

British Overseas Airways Corporation

Have you checked the u-joints in your drive shaft? If they are going out or have been damaged you may have some of the same symptoms.

Have you checked/adjusted the valves? Maybe an intake valve is loose and not letting in enough fuel on the intake stroke -- or maybe the exhaust valve is not letting the gases evacuate. I had a similar problem once and when I took the valve cover off, one of the intake rocker arms had popped off -- very simple fix. Caused by soft valve springs and over-reving. Maybe a long shot but check for blockage in the number one intake manifold runner. Do you have the ability to do a leak down test? I'm not sure if that will show anything. What about a burnt valve or maybe a leaking head gasket? Just some ideas. Rick

Ash, Check out Quaife. They may be a good place to start. Also, Taylor Race Engineering is a specialist in many types of gearboxes. Hewland is another brand to look at. Best of luck, Rick

I have a pair of vice-grip pliers that works wonders on stuck line nuts without buggering them up. It looks like this: Just make sure they are clamped on tight and go slow.

...does this mean the opposite of Progress is Congress?

I'm not sure the best grind to get, but make sure to get a solid cam, not one that is drilled, and make sure to have a cam oiler installed on the cam towers. The drilled cams are not as stout and can twist at high rpms which results in the rear valves getting a bit out of time. I'm not sure how much of an effect this really has, but my engine builder is pretty adamant about this.

Jerry, I've always run a solid rear diff mount on my road race cars. With all the other high performance suspension items you have, adding one will not make the car ride any harsher. It will however keep some extra strain off your u-joints (I recommend Spicer u-joints btw). With a rubber mount there will be unnecessary extra movement in the joints -- which can only cause faster wear and possibly premature failure. I think it is the only way to go -- plus you won't have to replace the rubber ones as often. As far as the R200... I've been running R180s (have to because of the SCCA rules) and have never had a failure or any problems. My friend who runs a 280Z has had many half-shaft failures -- until he had them shot-peened. My R180 is a 4.11 from the front of an 84 4x4. It was welded into a full locker. I've been running it for six years with no problems and no maintenance other than replacing the gear lube once each season.

>Michael I tried using them after someone recommended them to me but the results always came out crappy... >Escanlon Thanks for the great and detailed information!