MikeZcar

Hire an Arbitrator, it's your best way to go.

Jon, Thanks for the tips and the link. I read at least a couple of hours worth and bounced all over the net following links. Looks like there are several ways to improve upon/change/alter and/or do away with the old strap setup. I have settled on one I will use, I did not however see anything to prevent using the '70 model strap setup with an R200. I will do away with it as it has already let the R180 bugger up the e-brake stuff, must be that launch. But temp I would like to leave it alone. Thoughts? Mike

Seems that if I read several different places, several different things about "shaft length" I might want to get several opinions and see if there is a consenus. If I had read 1(ONE) time shafts were different and would have stopped there and not asked around anymore, that would be "stupid". I have done a search for the strap alteration in several different wordings and no luck yet, thought if I ask again somone might be able to point me to the thread. No disrepsect to the first to reply to my question, in fact my Thanks, however if he had quit, after only 1 person telling him "shafts are different", where would he be? Thanks for the welcome, Rant On, Mike

The shafts are supposed to be different lengths for R200, true? What do I need to do to the diff. strap?

Have all parts ready, read that I could not use half shafts from my 70 model, the 70 has half shafts with new U joints so I would like to use them, 4 bolts at each end, same compressed length as the 280ZX shafts I got for conversion, what would make them different? Could someone have already updated the R180? Shafts look the same to me, what is(if any) the difference? Also read needed to alter(?) the hold down "strap" on front of diff. for the R200, what do I need to do? Thanks, Mike

Looked like the lower portion of the pan was best, sure hate to pull it. Thanks,, Mike

OK I am asking a group of car folks "where to stick it?" My 70 was a work in progress, part of that was aftermarket water and oil temp and oil pressure guages. The oil temp probe(1/4" x 3" approx.) needs a home. Is there a logical place for the probe? Should I add a plumbing nightmare around the factory oil pressure fitting (mechanical oil pressure and the temp probe) hole? Mike

I am in Little Rock, there looks to be "swirl" marks on the pad but like I said with a straight edge there is no material missing from the motor number boss.

I just drug home a 70 (8/70 #9033) with AT and A/C, been sitting since 84 and all looks original. Had planned on a complete resto(floors and rails main problem) but the motor has me puzzled, it has the L24 stamped but the motor number boss is blank, parked way back in 84 and it looks it, still got the 2400 valve cover, right carbs etc, but I can't see any evidence of a stamping at any time. Oil, soap, brass brush, more soap etc, see nothing, I put a machinist straight edge across the 2 bosses and they are right in line. Looks to me if the number was ground off it would have knocked at least a couple thousanths off. What gives? Will not be a resto(at least by me) if I can't make myself feel good about it being the original motor. Factory(Dealer) replacement? Older swap?, it was 15 when it was retired, plenty of time to kill a motor and put in a rebuild. Any thoughts? Thanks, Mike in Arkansas