Arne

Jerry, is the primary thing you're interested in a rust-free shell? How important to the father/son project is matching numbers? I can keep my eyes open for something out here for you if you'd like. 'Cuz I'll bet this one either won't make reserve, or goes higher than you'll want to pay.

Picky, picky. The build date is 10/70. No mention of what year it's registered as...

That car has been mentioned here in a different thread, IIRC. It appears to be a decent start, but needs to be thoroughly inspected to verify the condition of the bodyshell. Add in the fact that it has been sitting un-used and not maintained for 19 years, and so it will quite possibly need a complete drivetrain overhaul as well. Put this together and the opening bid seems high to me, let alone whatever they have decided upon as their reserve. But as we've seen lately elsewhere on eBay, that doesn't mean someone won't bid it up anyway.

This car is back on Craigslist again, now at $13k. http://portland.craigslist.org/wsc/car/296850919.html

Nope, that's pretty much all it takes. Some L28 heads won't accept the mechanical fuel pump, but other than that it should all bolt straight up.

I assume it is the fronts that squeak? It is a common problem, but not totally hopeless. Brake squeak is typically the pads vibrating in the caliper, not the friction material on the rotor surface. What you need to do is either cushion the vibration, or lubricate it so that the pads slide rather than vibrate. Most of the "brake quiet" stuff you see in the parts stores works on the "cushioning" theory. In several years of doing brakes for a living, I never had much luck with this method, and so I don't recommend it. But lubricating the pads carefully with special grease can fix it. In fact, I just did this to my red 240Z today. The previous owner had the brakes done shortly before I bought it, and they squeaked loudly under certain conditions. But not any more. The process is simple. First, you need the grease. Look for a special grease for brake calipers. One such product is Sta-Lube Synthetic Brake Caliper Grease. Buy the smallest container you can find, a little goes a long way. What you want to do is remove the pads from the caliper. On the back side you will be able to see the contact pattern where the piston pushes. Wipe a very thin coat of the grease over that worn circular area. Then look at the side edges of the pad backing plates, you will probably see evidence of movement in a couple of spots there as well - lightly smear a tiny bit of grease on those spots also. Put the pads back in the caliper. As you install the pins and springs put a small amount of grease on any place that will have metal to metal contact. Especially in the small cups that press up against the pins. That process should fix it. After a while, it may come back as the grease gets displaced over time. But in my experience you shouldn't have to do this more often than once per year at most. Assuming you are using high quality brake parts, of course.

My first '71 240Z I paid $1500 for late in 2005. Needed (still needs) a bit of rust repair, and had what I thought was a good L28 in it. (I was wrong about the L28 being good though.) Probably paid a bit too much for it, considering both the rust and the worn engine. Second was another '71 parts car I bought mostly for the engine, which is now in the first one. I bought it cheap, but as a parts car I figure that's not what you are looking for data on. Third '71 240z had less than 60,000 miles on it, and is 98% stock and original. It is a great driver as is. I've started slowly refreshing it, keeping it very close to stock. I paid $7500 for it last fall.

I'll continue to look for his e-mail address. Might find it eventually. I agree about the price of his harnesses, I first chatted with him when I was looking for a dash harness for my yellow car. Couldn't justify the price for a driver. But I did by a very nice E12-80 ignition module from them, and they were decent people to deal with.

There's a shop in San Diego that does high-dollar harness restorations. Their descriptions always mention restored part number tags. I've bought stuff from them in the past, and they seem to be good people. You might contact them and ask about the tags. I can'tt seem to find their e-mail right now, but here's a link to one of their current eBay auctions: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=300092798612

The URL of the info page has changed, use this link instead: http://1971.240z.home.comcast.net/extras/alt-adapt.html

Highly recommended. Pictures of my shift boot at: http://classiczcars.com/forums/showpost.php?p=209709&postcount=122

Here's the pictures and my impression after installing the new boot. First, I'm going to say right here that it is NOT a perfect reproduction. The workmanship on Bryan's reproduction is MUCH better workmanship than my original. And the fabric backing of the material is dark gray rather than the original white. This reproduction is incredibly beautiful. It fits great, and looks "right" in the car. I'm thrilled with the result, it was well worth the extremely modest cost.

Thanks for the follow up, Ron. As I said earlier, I wouldn't have paid that much for it, but I can't say that I'm too terribly surprised, either.

Last question first - a firm "maybe". Late August is a hard time for me to get time off, as I work in K-12 education and school is preparing to start. But we might make it anyway.As to the order you do it in, that's kinda up to you. If it were me, and assuming it is still running OK now, I'd do the rust/paint first, then the interior stuff. Suspension can be done pretty much whenever, but if you do it after the paint you will be able to fix any overspray than may have snuck in. For better suspension, you may want to look at what beandip has on his, cut-down Euro-spec springs and KYB shocks. I haven't ridden in it yet, but he describes it as being a good compromise. As for color and stripes, I doubt that changing to a slightly different shade of silver will cause any hand-wringing. And stripes can really look good on silver. But remember that painting the stripes is a one-way ticket, and if you should ever have to sell it later the stripes may seriously detract for many purchasers. I'd do the engine swap last. Make it a good-looking, solid and fun driver first, then go for the performance stuff.

MIne arrived while I was out of town last week. It looks to be indistinguishable from the original now in my car. I plan to pull the console today, clean everything up and install it. I will post pictures later showing the two side by side. But from what I see here now, I'm VERY pleased with it.

Inside the car, under the right rear quarter trim panel. Just above and in front of the filler.

EDIT - Took too long typing - Carl answered it better than I did.

New Mini Coopers are available in Old English White...

The Z and RX7 division at VB morphed into Black Dragon. But no door skins in their latest catalogs. I don't think anyone is making door skins anymore.

Doh! :stupid:

I've seen replacement headliners at several vendors. One that comes to mind right off the bat is Too Intense.

And even if the Mikunis did come out on top, it wouldn't surprise me at all if the difference was rather small.

Rather than a sticky, maybe a journal instead? With a journal you can go back and edit the original list when you add something or find a typo. Better than having to create a never-ending novel of a thread.

No, my yellow is 919. You're right though, I recall gold as being 920 (and you should know). 918 is orange.