Arne
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Everything posted by Arne
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Looks like an early '74 260Z from the taillights... -
Your two carbs are so far out of sync that the front carb isn't doing anything. Try to begin your adjustments with the front carb.
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A better photo might be nice for comparisons, if not too difficult to get.
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In my experience, the satin clear coat is still way too glossy. I used the special tail panel trim paint from Classic Datsun when I did mine a couple years ago. I felt even that was too glossy, and worked hard to lay it on very dry to reduce the gloss. I've been told that later batches of the paint from CDM have reverted to Les' original low-gloss formula. (My batch was mixed by a different paint guy as the one who knew what he was doing had been deployed to Iraq. He's back now, I'm told.) It's more money than the graphite wheel paint, but probably gives better results than the satin clear coat.
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Well, the 240-Z is better, but the 4 still strikes me as being odd. The latest DATSUN looks good, and matches the BRE car logo pretty well. But what it doesn't match is my memory of how the DATSUN lettering on these sunshades looked in the old days. I still think that the either the DATSUN in posts #106 or #114 look closer to my memory. As for the 240-Z, again I keep going back to #106 as being the most consistent from character to character, still looking like what I remember. And in reality, I have not yet confirmed that the maker of these can accept an image file like this to created the necessary stencils from. I can certainly make suggestions based on the work here, but may need to trust him to tweak his fonts to try to match whichever we settle on here.
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We're down to only one single 240-Z sunshade left that is not spoken for. Last call!
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Don't be sorry. In this case, nit-picking is good. We want to come up with the best possible compromise, since the original stencils aren't available. (That would have been best, we all know.)After reading Adam's comments, I think I agree. While I like the slightly oval'd shape of the zero in the ones in post #121, in most every other way I prefer either post #106 or posts #113 (240-Z) and #114 (DATSUN).
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While original is obviously best, to my mind the dash pad is like the paint. When the original paint or dash is no longer good enough, have it redone in the best manner possible using today's better materials. I too would have a bit of a problem paying more for an un-cracked replacement than I would to have mine re-covered, for fear that the replacement would crack again at some point.Paint has been done on mine, I suppose the dash is only a matter of time...
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It's not original style, but MSA will sell their downpipe for the flanged exhaust separately for about $60 or so if you call them. Might not be exactly what you are after, but it would have the flange you need and give you something to work with.
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The pictures in the previous two posts match what I found when I parted my yellow Series 1, as well as when I painted my original Series 2.
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E, I was pretty certain that the three-wire started before the end of the 240Z run. While the Nissan parts list is not helpful on this, I note that the MSA catalog lists the same tach for '70-72, and the '73 unit is different. So I'm thinking that 3-wire for a '73 might be correct. Or at least we can assume that the '73 unit is unique in some way, if not in the 3/4 wire part.
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Not first hand, no. But since they are close enough to me to be within driving distances, I suspect they might be fairly high on my list if/when mine finally cracks. Assuming that discussions with them didn't scare me off.
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One more reservation for a DATSUN sunshade this morning, which exhausts the expanded supply of those so far. If I get more requests soon, I can still add to the order, but that window is closing soon, I suspect. Updated availability stats (12/14/09): Item | 240-Z | DATSUN | Total | ------------------------------------------- Ordered | 40 | 24 | 64 | Paid for | 36 | 21 | 57 | Pending | 3 | 3 | 6 | ------------------------------------------- Available | 1 | 0 | 1 |
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Your 32mm is about what I ended up with. The poly bumpstops are 2" (51mm) tall as shipped, I removed 3/4" (19mm) which left 1 1/4" (32mm). I'd call that pretty close.
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Also Dash Specialists in Medford, OR. No web site, but I've seen good reviews in the muscle car world, and here's the BBB's take: http://www.bbb.org/oregon/business-reviews/auto-restoration/dash-specialists-in-medford-or-22011618
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Thanks for that, Michael. I've got a message in to the manufacturer asking about format preference and such. Your images look great to me.
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Michael, what you've done so far is great. When you get it as good as we think can be done, will you be able to send me a full-size image that I can forward to the manufacturer?
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Edit - More reservations today, been a good day. Going fast, and not many left. Still time to add more to the order if demand continues, but the deadline for no further increases is rapidly approaching. Updated availability stats (12/13/09): Item | 240-Z | DATSUN | Total | ------------------------------------------- Ordered | 40 | 24 | 64 | Paid for | 36 | 21 | 57 | Pending | 3 | 2 | 5 | ------------------------------------------- Available | 1 | 1 | 2 |
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Yes, that is pretty much correct. The only other exception would be if you stumbled across one of the rare early Type A 5 speeds that were used in other parts of the world in '70-71 cars. Those would still bolt up, but would need a custom driveshaft. Chances of you finding one of those in the middle of the country are almost nil. (And if you do find one, I'd love to know about it.)
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I shouldn't think so. My '71 runs fine on just the mechanical fuel pump.
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Er, um, well...I guess I can think of worse things to be tied to linguistically than the process of eliminating an S30's aftermarket sunroof.
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I second the above recommendation. You'll want a good service manual, too, preferably a factory manual.
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Those look like a typical aftermarket sealed ball joint, as used on many new cars today. While it's possible they may not be quite as durable as the factory parts, it is equally possible that they might be as good or better. Hard to say for certain. I do suspect that at worst, these parts will likely last several tens of thousands of miles. Yes, you may wish to monitor the condition of the sealing boots, but I'd guess that they'll be quite fine for several years at least for a normal daily or weekend driver.
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I wonder about that 2000 number for 1971. I suspect there are more than that left. Those types of statistical exercises don't always reflect reality for special cases. And a 240Z - for many owners - is and was a special case. I'd wager that the yearly attrition percentage is lower for sports cars than for normal cars.
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Richard, actually the factory specified carb damper oil has always been 20 wt. (Note - 20 wt., not 20W.) Over the decades, many shadetree mechanics have tried all sorts of other oil in an effort to "improve" on the factory setup. ATF is common, as was Marvel Mystery Oil. Both of those average about 5 wt. These days, more and more people are realizing that Nissan knew what they were doing, and that 20 wt. oil is best. But it's worth noting that 20 wt. (single grade) oil is NOT the same as 20W-50 (multi-grade) oil. While the 20W-50 you used may be fairly close to single grade 20 wt. during the cold weather of winter, when it warms back up in the spring it will be far too thick. I'd recommend that you change to true single grade 20 wt. at your first opportunity. True single grade oils like this are easiest to find at motorcycle shops, as fork and shock oil.
