Arne

Hugh, when it stops, does it stop suddenly, or does it sound like it's running out of gas (stumbling and such before dying)? I can think of a couple other possibilities for temp-related things. If it dies suddenly, you could be losing ignition. Some ignition parts can be temp-sensitive if they are failing, such as coils or EI modules (if any). If it sounds like it is running out of fuel, perhaps it is. Fuel pumps (especially mechanical units) can fail when hot, but work acceptably when they are cool. If you are running the stock mechanical pump, check the float bowls for fuel next time it dies.

Please elaborate, Chris. When you say "Vintage Zs" what exactly are you referring to? Surely that must be a narrower definition than I'm thinking of. Even if you are only talking about what we here in the US call "Series 1" 240Zs, 18% is a huge batch of cars. Details (without names is fine), please??

Sounds like too much restriction in the fuel lines between the carbs. Do you have a fuel rail? Or are you daisy-chaining them?

But looking at those lights, you may have clearance issues inside the buckets. I don't think those city light sockets will fit in there without cutting or modifying the bucket.

Should work fine. Easy to pull, too, since they don't require a spring compressor.

Yup. That hose actually has fuel in it when the tank is full. It might not be the total cure, but since it is obviously not fuel-rated hose, it needs to be replaced in any case. So that makes it an obvious first step.

Might not be a seam split. Looks to me as if some previous owner replaced the fuel vent hose there with red heater hose, which is not fuel-proof. I'd say it's likely that the leak is from the hose. I say this because my car looked exactly the same with its deteriorated red heater hose there. So before you kiss off the tank, run it low on fuel and replace that hose with some fresh fuel/oil rated hose.

Too bad it's out in the middle of nowhere. But I guess they had to go that far East up the Gorge to find a place where the neighbors wouldn't complain. But that was probably smart. They're building right near the Boardman Bombing Range. If the neighbors don't complain about falling bombs, a bit of loud car exhaust should be fine too.

I'd buy that theory as a possibility for some types of failures, like bouncy needles, or needles that stick at 3500 RPM, and suchlike.But for tachs that immediately snap to the peg at 8000 when the ignition is switched on, it has to be electrical. E, let's try to make plans to get my dead one to you. Maybe use Bryan Parcel Service?

White out sounds fun. (NOT!)That B210 was my wife's car that she bought right out of high school. My most exciting time in it was after I installed the Marchal H4 headlights in it, driving at 70+ MPH on Hwy 97 between Chemult and Klamath Falls when the headlight fuse blew. In those days, night time there was very little traffic on 97, I had no idea it could get that dark that fast!

About 400 miles round trip is the max so far for me, but I've only had a road worth example for about 8 months. Say, does 2500 miles in a '74 B210 count? Done that!! (In 1977.)

Econ 101 - the value of a thing is what someone is willing to pay for it. So if any of you really feel either of these cars (51 or 305) are worth $10k, you can prove it with your wallet. I might watch, but I will not be buying.

Yup, I forgot to load it in the car prior to Canby. The dead one I have sometimes works, sometimes is intermittent, and has been known to snap all the way to 8000 when the ignition is switched on. Very warm days make it worse, it actually worked fine for several months - the cool winter months. I'll try to remember to bring it next time I come North.

But credit where credit is due. You may have noticed that the "eBayer formerly known as ur-gellis" now has public feedback. No credit to him, all to eBay. As quoted on the Private Feedback info page: "Important: If you have a private Feedback Profile, you will not be able to sell items on eBay." http://pages.ebay.com/help/feedback/reputation-public-feedback.html

No, none what so ever.I have - however - seen pictures of one car with what you describe. And to the eyes of an old BMW owner, it looked to me that it may have been a BMW E21 sunroof mechanism grafted in. The crank, size and other indicators all looked exactly like the sunroof on my '81 323i. That roof, or other similar crank-type roofs could be installed by a good bodyshop, just the same as how a good shop could replace my car's roof with an unmolested one. It just takes time and money.

Makes sense. By using two pins 180 degrees apart, the main effect is that the cancellation should happen any time the wheel is turned more than 90 degrees in either direction whether the car is LHD or RHD. Since the cancellation mechanisms are at top and bottom, the pin needs to be 9:00 for LHD and 3:00 for RHD. Hence -- two pins means Nissan only needed one steering wheel for all markets.

That's where I got mine.

Good point, E. I do know that my wheels all have two pins, but now that I think about it, the second pin should not normally come into play. Maybe it's for RHD? Are the turn signal and combo switches reversed on the RHD cars?

I've also found that stock springs and KYBs make for a good driver.

If cost is an issue, and ST won't help you, you could always just swap them your self. Since the ST springs are short, now a spring compressor is no longer needed. That means with a jack, some good jackstands and normal metric hand tools you should be able to do it in a weekend even if you take it very slowly. You might need a helper to bleed the brakes, but that's it. An experienced person should be able to change them all in 2 hours, three at the most.

For a stock 240Z (no mods), 2.0" isn't bad either, as long as it's mandrel bent.

Two possibilities, Randy. One is that one of the pins on the back side of the steering wheel is bent or missing. (These pins are what trigger the cancelation.) The other is that the left side cancel mechanism on the turn signal switch is either broken (possibly one of the little springs) or gummed up. You'll need to remove the steering wheel to look for this. If nothing looks bad, try putting the steering wheel on upside down (180 degrees off). If the left side still doesn't cancel, it's in the switch. If the problem reverses (right side doesn't cancel) it's the pins on the steering wheel.

Hey! No bad mouthing MGs!!

It'd probably fit, but the whole point of headers is to improve flow. Mis-matched port shapes is going to seriously mess up the flow - quite possibly flow worse than the stock manifold. Seems like a step backwards to me.

Just a heads-up, folks. Used to be that if an eBay user changed their username, there was a little icon. Seems to me that such a user had sunglasses for a while, to indicate a name change. Also, I recall there being a way that you could look up the users' history on name changes as well. This appears to no longer be the case. Case in point, there is no user ur-gelis anymore. Instead, he now goes by the name datsun-parts. I can find no place to verify this, but did hunt through the forum here to find a link to one of his previous auctions, and sure enough, the username is now datsun-parts. One more example of eBay taking care of its sellers, at the expense of buyer information.