Everything posted by Arne
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distributor points wiring correct?(pic)
Steve, check the area I circled in red. Make certain that the spring end is not grounding out there. I've seen instances where the insulator can snap out of the hole when the screw for the lead wire is tightened. Make certain that the insulator on the end of the spring is well seated in it's hole.
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More Series 1 240Z differences
A correction and a picture. Correction - I got my description wrong in the first post. The arm that is significantly shorter than all the rest is the Series 2 driver's side arm, not the Series 1. Picture - Here is the undersides of my pair of Series 1 arms (no logos). Similar to the NOS one from moonpup.
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More Series 1 240Z differences
Thanks for that, moonpup. Same flat face, same nice, shiny chrome finish.
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240z ignition points problem
Yes, it did. ROFLGotta rank this discussion right up there with "which oil is best" and "should I remove my 280Z bumpers".
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More Series 1 240Z differences
Probably was related, Mike. The later cars both have two-sided keys. What struck me was not just the different shape, but also the bright chrome finish on the early lock.
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Series I Steering Wheel Going for Record Price!
Maybe, but that never seems to work for me...
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Series I Steering Wheel Going for Record Price!
Nuts, simply nuts. I sold one that appears to be just as good to a member here for his low-VIN resto a month or two ago, for far less than that. They aren't all that rare. Good for the seller, but not so great for everyone else.
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Thinking Of A Restoration Project???
Mine are unpainted, Dan. Unmolested low miles car.
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More Series 1 240Z differences
I spent some time today cleaning in the garage, which in my case always ends up with me sorting and organizing parts. And I noticed a couple more differences between my early '71 car (aka Series 1 or 1970 production) and my later '71s (aka Series 2). In both cases below, the parts in question from 12743 (10/70) are different than the parts from either of my later cars - 27602 (4/71) and 37705 (7/71). The first two pictures are of the glovebox lock. Note that the surface of the button of the early car is completely flat, while the later cars' buttons are concave (dished in). The pictures don't show it well, but the early car's button is also a very nice chrome finish, while the later cars buttons have a satin finish. The second pair of pictures are of the wiper arms. The first picture shows that the early arm for the driver's side is noticeably shorter in length than the arm on later cars. The later cars' arms are both about the same length, but have a different angle from side to side. The early car's arms still have the different angle, in addition to the different length. The second wiper arm picture shows that the early arms did not have the manufacturer's logo at the base, but the later arms do. I don't know if the early arms were made by the same manufacturer or not. Can any one else confirm these differences?
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The Exhaust Debate
Mark and all, it's my guess that both opinions are correct, for the situations described. Seems to me that I have seen dyno charts for a SU-equipped L24 with stock and aftermarket exhaust, and the difference was nothing like yours. I suspect that in your engine's case, the stock exhaust was only barely up to handling the two barrel carb. So adding the four barrel alone did little, the exhaust was the bottleneck. It would be interesting to see what the exhaust did with the stock carb. Did your L28 come with a single outlet exhaust manifold?On the other hand, in the L24 as used in the US 240Z the horsepower bottleneck is not exhaust. Adding a good exhaust alone to an otherwise stock L24 does little. More intake (i.e. triple carbs) is what really wakes up a 240Z.
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The Exhaust Debate
Edit - Upon review, it looks like Daniel was already doing the kW to HP conversion. My bad.
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The Exhaust Debate
He's down under. Their dynos measure power in kilowatts, not HP. A kW is larger than an HP. I don't know the ratio, though.
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240z ignition points problem
It will work, but retards the timing by about 8 degrees when it doesn't get a signal from the injection. There are workarounds, but using the E12-80 instead is much cleaner. As I noted in your other post, yes, you can replace an E12-93 with an E12-80. The distributor itself is the same. The ability to edit a post times out after 5 minutes or so.
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rebuilding a 12-80 ignition module
Yes, I've done it.
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Thinking Of A Restoration Project???
Looks like a really great project, especially for an East Coast car. Somebody should jump on that one.
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240z ignition points problem
Right distributor, but the wrong module. It has the extra terminal on the side, which means it is an E12-93 module. It also does not have the later mounting pedestal, which is required. Your 240Z pedestal will not work.
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240z ignition points problem
I really don't think that there is any big difference between any of the electronic ignition choices for Z. Any of them will provide more consistent spark, provided that the distributor itself is in good shape. If you use a distributor with worn shaft bushings (either a worn ZX unit, or installing Pertronix or some such in a worn stock unit), or one with a non-functioning vacuum advance unit, don't expect much improvement. That's the often-overlooked part of this conversion. People stick a Pertronix in a sloppy stock 240Z distributor, or slap on a tired ZX distributor and expect it to be perfect. But these units still require the shaft and vacuum advance to be in good shape. Actually, as I mentioned in a post above, I don't have any issues still running on points. But I will eventually convert to a ZX ignition, if for no other reason than stopping any further wear on my original 240Z distributor.
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The making of reproduction parts.
DO you mean the wiper shaft boot? Or something different? Because the wiper shaft boots are already being repro'd. Sold by MSA and may others on eBay.http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/SWR01B/34-1206 But if you mean something different, please explain.
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240z ignition points problem
John, I got my spare from a local pick-n-pull for free, when I was buying a used wheel. Don't look for a ZX, those ignitions are generally all gone, and the ZX only used the E12-80 for two years. But carb'd 210s, 510s, pickups and other four cylinder Nissans also used the E12-80, and those cars are easier to find than the early ZXs. My spare module is off a 210 wagon.
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240z ignition points problem
Well, for one reason, points ignitions don't generally fail without warning, like an electronic ignition module can. And I can service points systems myself. Not so with an electronic. Yes, I agree that there are several good reasons to go to electronic. All the specs are superior. But in the real world it's not that simple. For example, I actually do have a ZX ignition, which I have not been able to get working properly. The car runs great with the points, but acts like it has a 4000 RPM rev limiter with the ZX ignition with either one of two different E12-80 modules. Yes, I should spend some time and figure out why, but there's not much motivation to do so when the original points work so well.
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240z ignition points problem
My '71 manual transmission has the stock single point distributor, I used Standard Blue Streak JP6X in it with Bosch cap and rotor. Works perfectly. Nothing against MSA, as I like them and do buy from them. But things like this that are available locally, I buy locally. Why pay shipping when you can pick it up on your way home?
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Stuff on eBay...
Hmmm. He does have what appears to be a set of factory (chrome ring) headlight covers. Those truly ARE rare.
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I am starting my racing career
What class and organization are you planning to race in? Better get a rulebook and find out what's allowed before you buy your car. The turbo may be forbidden in many classes.
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"A" New Guy
Hmmm. Jim, your definition of "a couple" must be significantly different than mine.I also welcome you, Justin. Here's hoping you get your car to the point you want it without too much pain.
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Where are the girls??.
And he has Jar Jar Binks for an avatar?!? What else do we need to say?