Arne

Drive more, show less. That's how I look at this these days. I don't own my cars to impress other people, they are intended to impress me. They do that by providing driving pleasure. End of story. I'd rather go on a 300 mile backroad cruise than attend a car show.

The UTQC is the whole suite of ratings. I believe the one the new rules are referring to is the Tread wear rating. The idea is to not allow the use of DOT-R tires (which frequently have ratings of 50 or so).

The stuff I've seen in person from Norm has all been top-notch, Jerry.

Actually, I believe the entire disk was molded in clear, with the letters and pattern in relief. The characters, rings and pattern are hand painted white and buffed off as noted, and then the entire underside is painted black. Simple and with a minimum of separate steps.

In your opinion, perhaps. I most certainly do not agree. Too modern, not "Classic" at all.But that is just my opinion, and others are free to do as they wish.

Some of the later alternators had these larger holes. I saw this on the ZX alternator that came in my yellow 240Z. While you can use it as is in a pinch, ideally you'll want some sleeves of some sort in the holes to locate things better. In this case, any sleeve you use should be slightly shorter than the thickness of the mounting ear.

Nissan didn't use tube "headers" on these cars, they all came with cast iron manifolds.

Been done. http://www.frpautomotive.com/frp_240z_shells_clubs.html

If that's what you would be willing to pay, that's what it is worth to you. Obviously, there are others who feel it is worth far more to them. I'd pay considerably more than $5k for it, but it has already passed beyond my personal valuation as well.

That is all the money for that car, and he isn't going to get it with that ad. Going to need a whole lot more detail and photos to get to even half that.

Late 260Z in the US still had flat tops. Not FI. That was actually the probable reason for the late 260Z - the fuel injected L28 wasn't ready yet, so the late 260Z was the rest of the 280Z package but still using the carbed L26.

First, you better tell us what you have. Year, model, modifications (if any)...

You could always move west. Or just pop out here every once in a while to shop...

Yes, the bearing collar needs to match the pressure plate. If you are not changing the clutch during a transmission swap, you want to re-use the collar that worked with the clutch in the car.

I owned several Ansas on other cars back in the day, and it seems to me that the red "tape" was actually more similar to heat-shrink tubing. Don't know where you'd find that stuff that large these days. Something you might try - instead of vinyl tape, use red pin-striping tape instead, as wide as you can find - 1/2" looks good. I don't know how durable it is, but I had some on the Monza tip I had on my car for a couple years, and it seemed to hold up OK.

Actually, I'm not sure there is enough demand for the ZX stuff. The number of people restoring S130s is far smaller (it seems to me) than those doing S30s, and it's hard to get companies to do S30 parts. Tooling up for this kind of stuff isn't cheap, and if there isn't enough market to re-coup the investment, it never happens.

While we're on this - SEM is great stuff, I've used it in the past with great results. Was planning on using it again on a new project, but I need a medium-dark brown, and SEM's brown selection is minimal, nothing at all close. Can anyone recommend a different brand of vinyl dye/paint that might have better browns?

I agree, good thing. Send your wife to deliver the kiss instead! Or better yet, buy me a beer sometime when you're up this way.

Les at CDM also has a fiberglass, one-piece stock replacement valance available. Had it been available when I bought my spook, I'd have bought one rather than drill holes in my stock valance.

16" case is pushing it, Carl. I struggled with that when I built my system prior to selling my car.

Ahhh! Vintage Supersprint. Very nice indeed.

The 280Z exhaust doesn't quite fit directly. Slightly larger diameter pipe, and a little different in the outlet area. I've seen occasional NOS 240Z pieces on eBay, but not often, and rarely the whole thing. But Keith, how much of your current system is bad? The hardest part to replace now is the downpipe. If your downpipe is still OK, I'd look into a repro rear muffler from Jay at JDM Car Parts, and then have the rest replicated at a local exhaust shop. Shouldn't be too hard to find a similar looking resonator, and the pipe can all be custom bent. Remember that the original pipe was quite small by today's standards, around 1 5/8" I believe, which has a considerable effect on the sound. If you "upgrade" to larger pipe, expect more noise.

Carl and Mike are correct. I can't tell from the angle in that picture if they are 14x6 or 14x7. Definitely period-correct, especially if the center caps are still original (with a stamped "A" logo). I had them on my '71 as well. Very popular on Zs, Celicas and the like back in the '70s.

Agreed. Before the spook, my wife informed me that she didn't want to ride in the car on the freeway due to how badly it got blown around by crosswinds and such. This was at 65-70 MPH. The spook cured that. Well worth a few holes in the valance.

Totally understand, olzed. It gave me pause, as well. The spook was the only modification I did to my car that was not 100% reversible, due to the holes in the valance. But in the end, I felt I had to have it, as the spook was part of my memories of how 240Zs were back when I was young.