Arne

Single stage means not base coat/clear coat - all in one.As for the difference in buying a quart and putting it in a reusable can or having it loaded in an aerosol can, not much. The aerosol can might have less moisture and such in the propellant, but it's still the same paint.

Either way should look good. Since I like the curves in the duct area, black just didn't do it for me. Didn't set off those curves at all, not like it does now that it's painted.On the other hand, non-ducted spooks that are color-matched almost look a bit plain to me (unless they are equipped with sponsor decals in a track car). So for the non-ducted I might lean toward satin (not flat) black.

In the past I've had Dupont Centari custom mixed, then loaded into rattlecans locally. So getting 903 blue should be no problem as long as you can get the right formula for a quart can.

I considered going ductless on mine, but I actually prefer the more complex shape of the ducted version. The ducted version is said to be better than the non-ducted if used w/o a rear spoiler, too. In either case, I like them both. To me, a spook is much better looking on a 240Z than a more modern air dam.

Still uncommitted. I need a vacation and would enjoy meeting some people from outside this area, but am reluctant to spend two days each way on I-5 (boring!) to get to and from a two day Datsun event.

You're right. Started in '77, I believe. Must be a later hood, if the car is really a '75.

You might PM Diseazd, I know he has installed the non-ducted MSA version on at least one or two of his cars.

The bulb socket is behind the white button. It's pretty much self-contained.

At this point, I think we can agree that the timing on this motor is all forked up, and I don't think we should assume that anything is correct. Here is what I think I'd do at this point if it were mine, and in exactly this order: 1.) Pull the plugs and cam cover. Find true TDC on #1 compression stroke via piston movement. 2.) While at true TDC, verify cam timing (both #1 lobes pointed up in ears) and check for correct cam chain tension. Correct problems as needed. (I have concerns that the head may have been excessively milled w/o having the cam towers shimmed. This could seriously affect the cam timing.) 3.) Still at true TDC, compare timing mark on pulley to marker on timing cover. If wrong, correct by moving marker or creating new mark on pulley. If a new mark is made, always use it forevermore. 4.) Still at true TDC, remove distributor cap and see where the rotor is pointing. If it doesn't point to the front of the car (approx. 8:30 assuming 12 o'clock is straight up towards the engine), the distributor drive gear is incorrectly installed. Remove the distributor, drop the oil pump, re-index the drive gear and re-install pump and dizzy. 5.) Set static timing by hand to approx. 0 degrees (true TDC). Start the car, warm it, set timing to 5-10 BTDC and test.

IIRC, that style of marker goes on the LEFT side of the engine. The marker for the right side (used on some years) is a single pointer. Does the pulley have only one mark? Or several?

My local Nissan dealer gives me a Z car club discount. Pricing that way is similar to those at nissanparts.cc or courtesyparts.com

I've never seen one of those for a 240/260/280Z that had a center support mount. No place for a center support to bolt to an an S30. If they truly are for a Z car, might be for a ZX...

Agreed. Or maybe even the glovebox lock. Because if they can't read or find the key code, you want them to cut the key from the least worn lock.

Assuming you are talking about the '73 240Z listed in your profile, that will cover it. When I painted my car last year, I did some of this. #1 came as part of the weatherstripping kit. #2 & 3 I did not replace, as I did not have the fenders off. #4 I got from Nissan, part #63223-E4102, club price $1.56 each. #5 I reused the originals. I believe they were still available from Nissan, though. #6 I got from Nissan, part #65157-N4400, club price $2.13 each. #7 & 10 I reused also. Again, I'm pretty certain Nissan still had them, and cheaper than from Black Dragon or MSA.

They will work just fine. They don't look the same as the seals for the earlier 240Zs though. Definitely true for '70-71, don't know about later as I've never owned one later than a '71.

I've had the Precision one-piece door seals on my '71 since the paint job last Spring, about 10 months now. The seals have definitely compressed some over that time, but still require a pretty firm push to close. They are useable now, but I do have plans to go back to the original style with separate welting at some point, for appearance sake, more than anything else.

Back on task here, you should NEVER attempt to replace only one single needle. There's no reliable way to figure out what needle you are matching. Who knows what needles some previous owner may have installed? Always replace them in pairs to ensure that you do in fact have a matched pair.

I suspect that many people don't even know that there is anything under the sticker. I felt it looked cheap with the sticker on it, and ripped it off immediately.

From the 9th post in this thread. And now: Looks like yours and mine are mostly the same issue after all.

Mike, I bought one of those caps for my yellow car in August '06 from Nissan for $10.83 (after discount). Part #21430-89990. First thing I did was to peel that sticker off. I suspect the sticker carries the lawyer-required warnings, and they can't be sold in the USA without it.

The 194 bulb shown is similar in output to the tail lights. That socket and location is not suitable for a higher wattage bulb for brake light or rear fog light use. It is too close to the lens, and you run the risk of melting the red lens with a hot bulb there. It's worth noting that - unlike on modern European cars where a rear socket that is unused in the US version is almost always a rear fog socket - these sockets on the 240Z lights were designed for the true parking lights, the ones lit by the missing switch next to the defroster switch in the '70-71 240Zs. In fact, if memory serves me, the rubber plug that needs to be removed has a big "P" on it.

I might have the flywheel bolts, but no drain plug. I'll look for the bolts this evening when I get home.

I'm not so sure, Will. I think the angle of the photo from the top is bad and we can't see the other two dome screws. I don't see any sign of the coolant passages in the bottom. So I think they are 4-screws, from a late '70 or a '71.

All sounds good. You did your research, found your stuff and are getting it handled. I hope it turns out as good as you hope.

Chet, you might want to search the archives for some of the repair pictures by a7dz. He's already done everything on his car that you might need to do. Here's an example. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28644