sideshowbob

A blaster-2 would work well in this situation? Are there differing ohm varieties of this coil, or is the blaster-2 a single type?

You're talking about the air gap between the reluctor and the pick up, yes? Haven't checked yet, but a good idea and I'd been planning to due the diagnostics this weekend but the wife wanted her headliner replaced (didn't come out too badly, but could be better. we used vinyl on a formed fiberglass headboard ). I'll see if I can get a pic later this week when we get a cam for my son's birthday, but I'm fairly certain it's the dizzy that came with the f57 block currently in the car (81 maxima, I believe). Oh, and it came with headers and new tires/exhaust for all of $700. The body, unfortunately, has seen better days. My dist cap and rotor...weeeeel the button looks good, there's gray scratches in the cap (my scraping it against the rotor during familiarization? or carbon tracks?) but oddly enough the 280z and the 280zx cap's are too small to fit my little mystery car. Not to mention the mystery cam (other post). Hell, scooby and the gang will be showing up to paint the thing with flowers in their @>!*&^ mystery #%$# van! hehe, it's 3 am.

Ok, the background: 1977 280Z with some odd year of ZX dist. (probably an e12-92 with no markings) and a stock ignition coil. When wired through the resistor, the tach appeared to work fine. I removed the resistor (per Zgarage instructions) and gained greater spark but the tach read nothing! Added 10k Resistor and the tach works but bounces oddly and sometime during this process the engine developed something of a miss (it's bouncing too!). I don't think replacing the ballast resistor did much good, but I'll try it again. Perhaps I should invest in a new coil? :stupid:

On a strange side-note: My master brake cylinder had been leaking brake fluid into the brake booster for some time before I'd even purchased the car (two months ago). The excess fluid appears to have been sucked into the intake for quite some time. Now that the leak is fixed, the car's not running quite as well. That's probably just coincidence, though. I have done a bit more tinkering than is good for it

An emptied feul pump won't pump. You'll need to prime it by filling the tank fairly full and trying to start it quite a bit. Or you could do it the hard way and pressurize the tank at the cap

I think you're right, I have them at .007/.009 right now. I have a dim memory of some cams using the same I/E setting, however. I'm going to use e_racer's suggestion and measure to see if the lift is the same and while I'm at it, it should tell me if the cam has worn unevenly.

Maybe I didn't explain myself... the cam is IN the car. Lash pads are correct, considering that the wear pattern on the rockers looks correct (centered). What I'm looking for is the lash adjustment specs. I'm beginning to think, however, that my problem is a leak at the headers. Thanks for responding, though!

Does anyone know of a way to identify a particular cam through measurement? At least to see what clearances would be needed.

Certainly, the problem is that I don't know who ground the cam. While the low vacuum could be partially caused by misadjusted valves, this low a reading points to something else as well. Is there any way to check for a jumped timing chain without removing the front cover? I have already adjusted the chain for stretch to the #2 position, btw. Also I may have failed to mmention that the car had a steady 14 before some of these problems occurred. Now a fluctuating 11-12 inches (just checked it again post-injector replacement). The car has a definite change in idle when unplugging #3 now. On a side note, I thought my new (well, new to me) injector was also faulty because I had placed the injector in a position where the connector would not seat due to the screws holding the assembly down Then the number one injector got loose (clips are off right now) causing me a headache until I figured it out. Whata morning! Oh, and at last check the compression (cold!) is as follows: Compression Test Wednesday, June 08, 2005 Some cylinders take all 7 strokes to reach full pressure 160 160 165 165 160 170

Potassium nitrate (saltpeter)+ granulated or powdered sugar= white smoke. For a casing, be creative but leave plenty of space for the black carbon to escape.

I recently had a fuel injector die out on me on my 77 280z and replaced it with one I pulled from a n/a ZX in the junkyard some time before. It went in an unusual way.. When I pulled the plug to the cylinder at idle, the engine roughened as expected but when I pulled the injector plug there was no change (injector leaking?). Now that I've replaced it the engine runs more smoothly (still rough) but removing the oil filler cap no longer causes it to die. So.... did I fix the problem and now have a vacuum leak to trace or is that single injector putting out way too much fuel? Victoria british lists the same part number for the injector, however the ZX injector has no 'cup' on it's tip (the ones on my Z are NOT removable and are molded to the main tip). Anyone??? Are these the same? Before this I was also running VERY low vacuum (11in/hg) and haven't gotten around to checking it again. Oh, and I'm having serious trouble shutting my valve train up. The PO installed chrome molly springs with a reground cam, would this increase the noise?