EScanlon

That's the float / resistor installed in the tank that "sends" the signal to your fuel gauge.

Contact: M.B. ANDERSON CO 1814 N.E. 99th St. Vancouver, WA 98665 360-573-7314 He has been working Datsun /Nissan for over 25 years and with his Dad before that. I'll tell you up front that he works by appointment and he's not necessarily the cheapest, but he'll guarantee his work and I know from personal experience that your baby will be PURRRRRRRINGGG. If you ask any of the CarQuest, Shucks, Baxter's, NAPA guys in the Vancouver area, they'll all refer you to M.B. Anderson for your 240.

The 70 and 71 240's did not have the automatic retractable seat belts that the later ones did. Trying to retro fit a 72 and higher into the 70/71 would be difficult as the seat belt retract mechanism fits into a "cup" on the floorboard. I have seen aftermarket "replacement" seat belt mechanisms that are retractable. Don't know right off hand what brand would be available in Australia, but surely you have access to a company like JC Whitney. Hope this helps.

First off: the 240 does not have an electronic "brain" / "box" / computer / or other components within the ORIGINAL circuitry. Now, if you've completely changed the wiring, etc to include those components then you are no longer dealing with a 240 wiring, and must deal with your car accordingly. Read the following articles found at these URL's: http://www.mame.mu.oz.au/salman/zignitio.html http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/TechPosts.html http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/ZXPertronix.htm These are but a few of them. You will note that unless you are dealing with a Pertronix or MSD, they all point out that the ballast goes. Now this information is SPECIFIC to the 240Z. NOT the 260 or the 280, nor any other vehicle. All I can tell you is this. The modification has been done on my car. My mechanic has over 25 years of experience working EXCLUSIVELY with Datsun / Nissan. He's checked and approved all the connections in the engine bay. If you want, I'll give you his name and you can set up an appointment for your car. But enough, that's just my 2¢

DITCH the resistor! The 240 does not have a computer nor a bunch of complicated wiring to muck up the old basic wiring system. By adding the electronic distributor, the resistor is only working to heat up the air. Disconnect it and you should be able to hook the wires together just as it says in the article you quoted. That's the way it is on mine. Enjoy the ride

I could only find references to the 300zx and not the 240. Was this a special order you did? If so, what are you planning on getting veneered?

I had this same problem. Drove my mechanic and I nuts. We finally solved it this way, he hooked up a test light in line with the positive pole of the battery and the positive battery wire. This way we could monitor that the draw was / was not there as we unplugged and replugged in components. We eventually traced it to a bad accessory relay. That's the one mounted on the top of the passenger kick panel, all the way on top. The minute we disconnected it, the light went out. Hooked in a new one, made the contact to ground to finish the circuit, and VOILA no drain. Note that the clock will still drain intermitently if functioning properly, but it is NOT a continuous drain. Hope this helps. Enrique Scanlon

Since I was looking for Black at the time I got them, and he had black, I didn't inquire on other colors. That phone number I gave is for his business, leave a message if you don't get a hold of him directly and he'll either call you back, or if you leave your e-mail he'll contact you that way. The SEM or even the Eastwood Vinyl Paint will work very well. The key to this is preparation. Since you would be working with NEW panels, you wouldn't have years of finger grime and silicone protectants to clean off before you could paint. As to the panels themselves, they are complete and ready to install. They include the felt wiper for the window, the metal backing, the washer trim around your lock mechanism, the silver trim. The only things they don't include are the window cranks, door lock handle, the escutcheon, Grab Handle. I'm sure that if you bought them, and painted them, you would be extremely pleased.

NEED the following items: 71 Hatch Cardboard / Vinyl, the piece that goes ON the hatch to hide the space in there. It is a long rectangular with rounded corners and vinyl covering. Would like as straight and blemish free as possible. 71 Driver's Rear Plastic Piece, the one that hides the Antenna. On closer inspection, mine has too many cracks and holes to work with. 71 Driver's Quarter Window Vinyl Dog Leg, the one that has the silver trim below the window. Would like as straight and blemish free, chrome plastic strip should be blemish free also. Please contact me as to what price you want for the item(s). My zip code is 98685, if you choose to investigate shipping costs, which I would reimburse you for, as well as packaging costs. Thank You in Advance: Enrique Scanlon

Contact Andy Russel at 480-217-7322 or e-Mail him at z@datsundude.com He sells the original 70-73 Interior Door Panels, in the original format for $255 a pair. That price includes the clips and receiver plugs. You can't beat that price ANYWHERE. I bought a set from him and they are perfect. Enrique Scanlon

The first few digits of the Vin tell you all the information contained within. The code is as follows for 240Z/260Z/280Z: G H L S30 ##### BLANK = Coupe G = 2+2 H = L24 (240Z) R = L26 (260Z) H = L28E (280Z) L = Left Hand Drive Blank = Right Hand Drive S30 = Car Model ##### = Serial Number The 280ZX and up had their own enumeration. Sorry, the Vin does not have the information you are looking for unless you are talking a 300ZX after 2/89

Toggle Style: Unscrew the round chrome bolt from around the body of the shaft. If necessary you can either use a small spanner wrench or an e-clip plier to get it started. If you don't have either one of those, use a small allen wrench with the 90 degree angle and tap lightly counter-clockwise on one of the holes and it should start. Push Pull Style: Knob head is a bayonet fit, i.e. push in lightly, turn in one direction (I don't recall which one) and knob will come off shaft. Then the chrome bezel is just like the toggle.

We ARE talking about a Honda CRX aren't we? So, it IS conceivable that half that time he spent just reving his engine up, and then shot forward nailing the cop........

This is the URL for the synopsis of the early history of the 240Z. This was written by Carl Beck whom many consider to be one of the authoritative figures when it comes to Z information. http://zhome.com/History/history.html <a href="http://zhome.com/History/history.html"> Z History </a> In there is where I got the information regarding the Project Z story.

If it took him three seconds to get to the middle of the intersection, even figuring an 8 lane street, or 4 lanes per side, and figuring the cop to be in the left most lane, that means 3 seconds to go across 3 lanes. Now figuring each lane to be approx 10-12 feet (I could be wrong) that means either 10ft/sec or 12ft/sec. Which translates to: either 6.82mph or 8.18mph over all speed.... Hmmm, and the cop couldn't avoid him? Something fishy here. Ok, let's presume only 2 lane road, one each side, which would mean maybe 8 to 10 feet....no, that's even slower as then it's 8 ft in 3 seconds. Hmmmmmmmm

In other English speaking countries, meaning "old" English, or the King's English in yet another moniker, the last letter of the alphabet is ZED. That is how it is pronounced. Americans pronounce the Z as Zee. As to why the Datsun Z was named the Z, there are several stories. The most prevalent is that that was it's production Code while being designed. Another is that the letter Z in Japanese has a hieroglyphic or whatever they call their printed letters that is also the symbol for "Ultimate". Yet another is that Mr. K and the other engineers felt that American men would not identify with a car named "Fairlady" (which is what the car was named in Japan) and that they would identify better with a car with initials, like the Jaguar XKE, the Aston-Martin DB-5, and the MG, to name a few. The best research I have found on the subject comes from zhome.com and there the story is generally accepted that it was because the project was designated Nissan Design Project Z because that was the next letter in the sequence they were using. The Fairlady story is also true. The 240 comes from the engine size as the engine size is 240 deciliters or 2400 cc. So, in sequence, Mr. K felt that Fairlady was too effette a name for the American public. He decided to use the engine size and the Project designator in the US. By the way the story behind the Fairlady name is that one of the upper level engineers or vp's for Nissan had seen the movie My Fair Lady and was so impressed with the story line that he felt it was an appropriate "theme" for the car. i.e. from the lower elements of society a true Fair Lady arises. Don't forget Japan was just 20 years past WWII.

Good Job! Now remember this: 1000 Atta-Boys will entitle you to be universally recognized by your peers as an intelligent and kind individual, able to take the leadership role and assist others in matters that will make you be admired for years. Note: One AWSH!T wipes the record clean and you have to start over again.

240znz explained it well, but there were a couple other items. The "European" items are these: Amber Turn Signal on Rear Light Assy. Clear Turn Signal on Front Light Assy. Bumpers do not have the Rubber Strips and / or the Bumper Guards. (I may have this one a bit muddled up) There are no doubt other items that are also called "European" but I can't recall right off the top of my head. Hope this helps.

Or like this, with Gold Z instead of White:

Or the Front of your Car looking like this:

Picture this on the pocket of your T-shirt, or on the back, or on the front:

I'm in Vancouver, WA. If I can help you, let me know. Send me an e-mail and I'll come over and give you my 2¢.

:tapemouth I'm not colorblind, but the red that you see as part of the Nissan "logo" is, I believe, an architectural thing and nothing to do with the Nissan Hamburger.

Maybe I'm daft :stupid: ; but I don't see the difference in the logo. To me it looks as though there's a shiny surface and it's reflecting the windows from the building. Can someone help me see? :cross-eye Thanks

A magazine in the 70's did a comparison on the 240Z stock and the MGB GT, and the Opel GT. Their results were published in Sports Car Graphic; Mar 1970, and reprinted in the book "Datsun 240z & 260Z Gold Portfolio" which is a reprint of many articles. In that article they showed that the 240Z Stock was the only one of the three to have downforce on both the front and rear axles. The other two showed significant UPforce. All of these results were published as being at 100mph. Now, at higher speeds from what others have posted and purportedly other magazines (haven't seen or heard), there is a feeling of "lightening" or lack of control through the steering mechanism. Haven't myself experienced it, since I've been doing some major rework on my car and haven't had it out on a long stretch of highway where I could let it get past 100. However, a couple doubts as to your original post occurred to me. Quote: "Front Air Dam: I'm going to get the MSA II one, no question. It is stylish and is supposed to force air underneath the car in order to create a low pressure zone by moving the air faster. Skirts are to keep the air trapped underneath. Has anyone noticed a significant handling change as a result of this airdam, or is it more cosmetic. " Maybe I'm completely wrong here, but I had always been told by other enthusiasts and racers as well as my engineering classes that the purpose of the front air dam was to force the air in front of the car UP AND OVER the car, and what could not be forced up (due to the plowing effect) would in fact be pushed to the side, PREVENTING the air from entering the area underneath the car. THIS effectively reduces the volume and pressure of air beneath the car which causes it to "suck" down to the pavement. Skirts on the other hand, were to maintain that "plow" and NOT allow the air to rush back in under the car just past the front wheels, and thereby TRAP the LACK of air pressure beneath the car for as long as possible. Now the design of the air dam is what's important in whether it diverts the air to the side or forms a rolling turbulence that builds in front (and this causes some lifting) which then causes the bulk volume of the air to go UP and over the car. Now the rear air dam or spoiler, it's shape was an attempt at reversing the front air dam. By forcing the air sharply upwards, it would cause it to tumble and fill the area behind the car quicker while at the same time creating a vortex that would cause the bulk of the air stream above to ride over and above. Yes drag was increased (made worse; something you didn't explain) but the offset in drag was explained in that the entrance of fumes in to the car were diminished. Now, I studied engineering, and this is from what I recall from 20 + years ago, I may be all hogwash, or it could be that studies since then have demonstrated that what I recall to be erroneous. Looking forward to your reply.