EScanlon

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=36475&item=2480158396&rd=1 Some one tell me that this guy does NOT know about Zedd Findings. E

The problem in shipping to Eastern Europe is that there are few carriers that will transport a vehicle outside of a container. Add to that that if you rent a container, park the car in it, the problem then becomes that they can't guarantee LEVEL (or within a margin) shipping. (You don't want the car to skid into the sides or doors of the container, and in order to modify a container for chains you need a special container or modify your own.) That's been what I've been informed by my container agent. If you can get LEVEL transport to Europe, try to get it as close to the destination and then have them truck it or drive it the rest. Now, you by chance haven't sold your vehicle to a foreign individual that will / has / sent you a cashier's check for TWICE the purchase price? If so, or ANYTHING like it DO NOT SHIP THE CAR WITHOUT C O N F I R M E D PAYMENT! Confirmed funds are where your bank HAS the money and not that they are processing your check / deposit. Enrique Scanlon

The very early Z's, which had TWO slots behind the shift mechanism for both the Choke and the Manual Throttle are different from later consoles that had only ONE lever for the choke. If I recall there was a change in the Automatic Transmissions or in the Manual Transmissions that necessitated a change in the location of the Shift Hole. I'm not sure if the following applies to later consoles, but it definitely DOES apply to the early ones (personal experience here). You can convert an AUTOMATIC console into a MANUAL, but not the other way around. The Automatic has a Gear Selector Indicator in place of the Leatherette Shift Boot. The Selector Finisher butts up at the front with the bottom edge of the a) ashtray or fuse box / indicator light panel, whereas the shift boot is essentially an inverted skirt that has had it's "hem" clipped to the four sides of the hole. The Forward edge of the hole has a higher edge than the other sides, whereas the automatic has the edge all even to the other sides. This difference is so that the joint between the shifter selector and the console does not leave a hole. If you look at the forward edge of the shift finisher and the lower edge of the ashtray surround you'll see the "extra" bit of plastic that gets removed in order to make the console into a standard console. Enrique

The wiring being a few inches away from the sender is normal. That's how Datsun would "park" the wires they weren't going to use. Check the front and you'll find that the Fog Lamp wiring is also there but more than likely taped off also. Your tank is also missing the two vent tubes that lead to the fuel vapor expansion tank. Those two vents would be located, one above the sender and one to the far back and far right of the tank in the picture. Enrique Scanlon

That's interesting to note. My car (Sep 71) had an aftermarket stereo installed when I got it. When I went to the boneyard to find a replacement for it, the one that I found had the volume on the left and the antenna switch above the right knob. Pictures that I've seen in the owner's manual is what tells me I got the right one. This would be something that Alan T. should comment on, probably Kats would be interested also. Enrique

Disconnect the + terminal from the battery and hook up a simple light type circuit tester, or just a simple 12v bulb. If it lights up, no matter how dimly with the key in the off position, then you have a current drain. If it doesn't you do not. It's that simple. Now, to trace down WHERE the current drain is, simply hook up your bulb again, and go inside the car and start disconnecting likely candidates for the drain. Typically: the accessory relay (mounted on the kick panel on the 240); or the Glove Box Light. Those are the easiest to find and detect. When the light at the battery goes off when you've disconnected an item, that's the item that's causing the drain. Memory keeping circuitry on radios or alarms is usually so low as to take literally months to drain a properly charged and in good condition battery. 2¢ Enrique Scanlon

That actually looks like a RHD radio for a 70 or early 71. The notation above the left knob is only for DX or LD, an old notation for DISTANT and LOCAL station reception. In newer stereos this is done automatically, but back then you would select a tighter band reception for stations further away. The reason I say a RHD radio is that the volume and on-off switch knob is on the right. The toggle switch for the antenna didn't go above the tuning knob on the right (USA market) till late 71. 2¢ Enrique Scanlon

Wondering how much your car might be worth? Check this sale on E-Bay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2479139282&category=6187 Enrique

I agree that some of the items this seller sells are outlandish. However, let's not forget that there are ~some~ individuals out there such as Porsche or Ferrari owners who simply feel that they MUST flaunt their brand of car. With Z's becoming almost as exclusive (due to their rarity) as Porsches and Ferraris (which are exclusive due to their prices), it isn't inconceivable that eventually there will be some "elitist" owners out there that flaunt the Z. Then again, I'm biased. I bought a pair of the "Z Driving Gloves" just to put on the console when I'm at car shows. Enrique

DO NOT USE POR 15 FOR EXTERIOR SHEET METAL! Although it is a great product for painting over rust, it has a tendency to set very quickly after being painted and NOT flow out. This lack of flow out will show up on your final surface paint as uneven shine, and hence will make your paint job look awful. You WILL need an etching primer in order to do the first primer coat on bare metal. If you use any other type of paint for the first coat you can count on it blistering or flaking off later. You can top self-etching primer with any one of various surfacers, whether high-fill or light and then go to final paint. Heck if the body is straight enough you wouldn't even need to go to a fill primer, but you MUST first shoot etching primer. Hope that helps. Enrique

Are you referring to the plate on the glove compartment door? If so, you need to disassemble the door, there's a bunch of phillips screws on the inside face of it, then you will have the outside face BACK visible. You'll then be able to see the blind speed nuts that hold that emblem in place. Enrique

Two DUTCH Auctions for Complete Carpet Kits. This is for LOOP pile, althouth non-OEM, a very nice upgrade: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=46093&item=2478164202&rd=1 This is for an OEM style set: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=46093&item=2478164389&rd=1 A DUTCH auction is where more than one item is available and will go for the LOWEST amount for higher numbers. Just a thought: Enrique

A D/A Sander is a DUAL ACTION Sander. That means it can sand in either an Orbital or a Circular pattern. So knock yourself out. Just be careful if it's an electic sander, make sure you hook up the vacuum attachment. Enrique

Since the clock runs normally when you drive it, and stops when the car is not driven points to the source of power to the clock being interrupted. Have you checked that the power to the clock is in fact, continuous? 2¢ Enrique

St. Stephen is correct. If you'll look you will note the seat sensor on one of them. Enrique

First off, I think you did well with a $2500 settlement. I don't think you could have gotten much more. So with that in mind, here are two thoughts for you. First, see about getting another estimate from a body shop that has a good reputation. Anyone? Then compare what you will be getting done. Unfortunately, finding a bodyshop that is willing to search out and procure new or refurbished parts for an older vehicle is going to be tough. But, that's what you want to do. Now, as an aside, I note that the quote you have is going to replace all the parts on the right hand side. Are they all so shot that they can't be repaired? That's where you can start negotiating with the body shop you're currently working with. Second thought, what about having the body shop repaint the WHOLE car as part of the fix. It may mean that you have to toss in another $1k or $1.5k on top of what you're currently quoted, but that way, your car would be all one color. And as an afterthought, if you are mechanically inclined, you could do the repairs yourself, as long as you can get ahold of the parts. Anyhow, good luck and keep us posted. Enrique Scanlon

Unfortunately, without cutting sheet metal, there isn't an easy way of accessing the captive nuts that hold the latch to the body. The only way that I have heard of fixing a stripped nut there is to drill and tap to the next larger size bolt. FWIW Enrique

I'm an ex-bodyman and I have seen what the pans from Zedd Findings look like as well as helped install a set. I'm stating that because I have a lot of experience in not only duplicating hard or impossible to get pieces of sheet metal as well as just using skinss and fenders from both the dealer and / or aftermarket sources. IMO, you would spend a lot of time and money in cobbling something together that won't look as well as what you're getting from Charlie. The end result of doing it with Charlie's pieces is that the replacement will look very close to original, but be stronger. He has taken the time to drill the drain holes as well as bend the reinforcement oval indentations in the floor pan. The sides have been bent up at the right angles as well as having the proper length to fully replace the whole pan from the front to the back. Now, you can try to just patch, and if that's all you need, then yes you can just cut a couple sections of flat stock and weld / braze them in. But, if you're talking doing the WHOLE floor pan, by the time you get the metal, cut and bend it to shape, I think your savings will be very little. Then again, if you're very skilled at cutting and bending metal you would do it in an afternoon. However, then you wouldn't have posted this question. As far as the structural strength, metal that has been bent in a brake or press is far stronger than metal that has been hammered or bent in small sections. Anyhow, that's my 2¢ Enrique Scanlon

No problem Marc. Now just do yourself a huge favor. IGNORE the itch that's going to creep into you and drive you batty about trying to do any type of repairs. DO NOT TOUCH THE CAR! If you do, the insurance company will undoubtedly use that as a reason to reduce the pay out. As far as your custody hearing: The same basic principle applies. Know what the rules and regulations are, then make sure you abide by them and / or point out how you conform to their requirements better than your ex. Unfortunately, the child custody laws are strongly weighted towards females, so you need to prove that you're BETTER than she is. There's more to it than just this, but hopefully you've retained a good lawyer who will advise you. Enrique

But your sentence implies that they were NOT, and something you said/did has caused them to change their approach. That's the whole reason for being so aggressive. No, it doesn't make it harder to prove. The difference is that on private property there aren't any traffic laws that may have been violated, nor to be upheld. That's the main reason the police don't get involved in writing police reports on private property accidents. Otherwise you would need a police report for every broken window. The most interesting thing you mention is that she doesn't deny hitting your car. THAT'S the most important thing. That's what this thing is all about. She hit YOU. That she's trying to blame you is irrelevant. Unless she can prove that you were driving recklessly and/or at excessive speed, she's liable for having backed into you. Now, that they are being cooperative now is probably a good indication that they will pay out. But don't back off yet. The squeaky wheel gets the grease. If you appear to be easily mollified, then I can guarantee that afterwards you'll be screaming how you got shafted. Don't back down. It is that aggressive stand that will cause them to paper you with dollars in order to get you to go away. Ever see a little dog tell a big dog to get the hell out of it's yard? That's what you need to act like. If you let them think that they've "gotten to you", they'll revert to their initial strategy and just brush you off. There are hundreds of stories of people who tried to conduct their business with the insurance company in a "reasonable" manner, only to be shafted afterwards. I know you may feel that this is too aggressive, and it is. The whole point of being adamant and belligerent about the damages is so they don't try to "reason" you into accepting less for the damage because: it's an old car, it's not worth the amount you are claiming, the damage isn't as serious, there were no injuries, no one is really "at fault". Do you get my drift? You CAN act in a reasonable manner. Just let them know that you are a dormant volcano about to blow up, unless they pay proper homage. Enrique

Maria: If the car was tryly professionally converted, then they undoubtedly reinforced the bottom of the car. If they had failed to do that they would be liable should the car fail in that manner. Take the car to a mechanic and a body shop. The mechanic will evaluate the vehicle for brakes, engine, tranny and suspension, and the body shop can ensure that the frame reinforcements underneath the car are adequate and still sound. That will ease your mind. Good luck, and post some pictures. Enrique Scanlon

2MZ: That is probably one of the most succinct statements about our capitalistic Supply and Demand system. Then again, that's the basic kernel of it. Enrique

Marc: Of course the Insurance company is going to play the stall game with you. Stop playing nice guy. You've contacted them, they've brushed you off, send them a certified letter with return receipt. That letter should state the time(s) that you have tried to contact them along with a copy of a couple of estimates (get the two most expensive) and let them know that you will proceed to file in Small Claims Court by a SPECIFIC DATE if you do not receive a SATISFACTORY settlement. Note the wording, it is what is satisfactory to YOU not them. Give them at least 5 business days to respond and that's the day that you will file. In Small Claims Court you file an amount as part of your paper work. Be sure to include the amount for the HIGHEST estimate, and a suitable amount for YOUR time, and the amount of the filing fee. Don't get original and request "pain and suffering" or other BS, be strictly up-front about it. You could if you had an appraisal before the car got hit, get it appraised again and add to the suit for the amount of depreciation due to the damage. Of course the amount is going to be close to double the original estimate, but you're going to have your paperrwork ready. Pay to have a Sheriff's Deputy serve the woman, that ALWAYS gives them a jolt. Then when they contact you and try to bluster you off, you just keep to your guns and wait till they finally offer a check that WILL cover the damage. Now don't get greedy and try to hold out for more, that's why you padded the original amount on the suit, so that the amount they finally offer will be satisfactory to you AND to them will appear as a win. Remember, you HAVE to negotiate from a position of power. If you act apologetic, and are asking them to help you out....forget it. You've literally lost before you started. Remember, YOU are the injured party. The law states that THEY must make reparations. That's it, don't go wishy-washy on us or we'll have to beat you with a stick. Now go get one for the Z...... Enrique

MikeW: You've probably already read the thread(s) that discuss the various substitutes / replacements for the tar paper that was on the floor. If so, then no need to read further. If not, definitely do a search for them and read them. In a nutshell, remember that the main reason for the tar paper was not thermal insulation, but the propensity for flat sheet metal to resonate. That resonation tends to duplicate and even magnify noises that will drive you crazy. Since Datsun originally placed this onto the bare sheet metal, and time has a tendency to cause the adhesive to fail, moisture will creep in and rust develops. That is why they're so vilified by all Z owners. The trick to using them properly is to make sure that the metal is properly protected. If you've ever pulled a decal or other sticker off of painted metal, then you know that the base paint stays generally unblemished. So with that in mind, in order to QUIET down the cabin, definitely do put either tar paper, brown bread or some other form of vibration damper onto the floors. Just make sure that it is NOT a porous insulation, like shredded fiber or pressed fibreglass. FWIW Enrique Scanlon

Mike: S H U D D E R :sick: :mad: EGADS man, don't EVEN think that I may be a lawyer. I agree that the lawyers and their self-serving laws and nonsense have tied this country up into impossible situations. If lawyers were to be liable for some of their shenanigans, I can almost guarantee that some sort of order would quickly be re-established. Without going into a long discussion of it, just think, the lawyer gets paid whether or not they win the case. And if they win, they usually get a share of the pie. They have a win-win situation. They would gladly sue God, if they could find out where to serve the lawsuit. If anyone here IS a member of that profession, I offer no apologies. If you choose to take offense, then it must be because you agree with me to some degree, and are offended because I'm citing what has become obvious to the rest of the country. Mike, knowledge of the system is necessary in order to avoid the pitfalls that have been woven into it. Whether a law is valid or not is not a subject that can be discussed in simplistic terms. What is valid in one situation is entirely inappropriate in another. The trick is to know when and where to fight them. Sometimes it isn't worth it to fight it, and best to aquiesce and make sure that you are in compliance whether you agree with it or not. Remember, Al Capone was eventually convicted of TAX EVASION and not all the bootleg whisky, extortion or murders he committed or had a hand in. If you'll remember the eleventh commandment: THOU SHALT NOT GET CAUGHT and then remember that if you know the rules you know how to work WITH and AROUND them. But enough of that. If folks wish to discuss the legal system we should take it to another forum. Enrique Scanlon