EScanlon

Since the Oil Pressure gauge needs to have pressure in order to register something, how is it you've confirmed that it works? These tests were done with the engine at slightly higher than idle rpms, weren't they? The Z's engine is notorious for having really low oil pressure at idle. As far as the grounding, I may be off base on that, as I've not had one go bad on me for me to effect the same tests. I mentioned grounding it as that would essentially eliminate that component from the circuit and allow the gauge to show what a full ground would be (i.e. no resistance to ground). It may be that the oil pressure sensor actually increases resistance as the pressure increaes. While I can't discount the wiring, the Alternator / VR adaptor wouldn't normally have an effect on the oil pressure sensor....unless it burned out due to the (presumably) better current. E

Ok Mike, is this one of those Aussie terms that we Yanks get all befuddled with? What is a "churn" type filler? In the 70's, at least here in USA, they still sold Leaded Gasoline. With the introduction of Unleaded Gasoline it was necessary to restrict the introduction of Leaded into those new vehicles. (IIRC circa 74/75 or so) The newer Unleaded Fuel Pump Nozzles were a smaller diameter hose than the Unleaded Nozzles. The earlier Z's had no problem with the larger style nozzle, but can't imagine that that was why they had such a large opening. So, enlighten me please. E

The Volt/Reg only has five wires going to it in the early cars; Black, White, White/Black, Yellow and Black/White. Stephen's wiring may have yellowed due to the spray paint applied to the wiring and connectors as well as age. But aside to all this, neither the Oil Pressure nor the Temp Sensor have anything to do with any of the wires going to the Alternator or Voltage Regulator. Power to both of these sensors comes directly from the fuse box and through the meter's themselves. The sensors ON the engine basically provide ground for the meters in the dash. So, rectify the problem with the missing wire on the alternator connection as THAT wire is the one that powers the Ammeter in the dash. FYI, it should be in the MIDDLE position of the upper row (the only empty middle position). It seems that maybe at some time the original connector / wire failed and it was replaced with the standard spade terminal crimp-on terminal. Unfortunately, those don't stay secured within the plastic connector. Once you get that in place you should have your ammeter back. Now, as far as your Oil Pressure Sender. This is a simple item and it is not unusual for it to fail after 30+ years. Disconnect the wire going to it, and ground it. This should allow your gauge to read either FULL pressure, or NONE at all, but it WILL read, unless the GAUGE is bad. Conversely, when you disconnect it you'll get the opposite reading (again either Full or None). If the gauge does register the connection to ground, then the problem is in the sensor and not the wiring. Replace the sensor. FWIW Enrique

One note though, do NOT saturate the surface of the FOAM on the headliner. If you're hankering to spray the "heck" out of it, spray it on the metal part of the roof. This is simply because too much adhesive will tend to soak INTO the foam, and the headliner's foam is typically NOT closed cell foam. As a result it could soak and saturate the foam, which could be disastrous if you happen to press on the headliner and the adhesive sticks to itself. You'll end up with dents in the foam. The trick to spraying on the foam is to spray just enough of a light coat to build a "base". Allow this to set and dry, on your second pass, is where you'll apply more to hold onto the adhesive you've sprayed on the metal roof. In this manner you'll not be soaking the foam on the first coat, which is the critical part of not soaking it. Remember that you're dealing with contact cement. As such follow the instructions as close to the letter as possible. E

From the wiring diagram I have, IF two of the three wires that appear to be going to the same connector are White and two White/Red, then yes it does connect to the "Shunt". Other than it also connects to your fusible links, hard to say what it is. Unfortunately, the other connector is harder yet to determine. Can't tell what color wires are going to it. You need to take a picture that's not so close, it's next to impossible to see any detail since it's so blurry. E

Without lambasting you TOO hard....did you bother looking at his car? I can't imagine he'd be too willing to turn it into a parts car. E

Alyssa: While it could be a case of POD or a poor Body Shop, more than likely it's a case of a previous owner / insurance company refusing to pay for the proper repair. Sadly, if the picture and all the bondo you've chiseled off are any indication, the car had been seriously smacked on the rear end. That being the case, the "proper" repair might have entailed a complete set of rear sheet metal, AND the two rear parts of the SIDE rear fenders.....not an inexpensive proposition even "back in the day". You can save yourself a TON of time and grief if you switch to a grinder, not the style used after welding or to shape rigid metal, but the style that uses the grit discs. This is also the style used to "scratch" the metal prior to applying bondo. While you are making headway with the chisel, you might actually venting more frustration than making headway. Don't be mad at the use of bondo, after all it kept your car from being junked years ago. E

I believe you may have coined a new term: PREVIOUS OWNER DUMBASSERY Now we just need to get it to the post where all the acronyms are being listed.... E

Found this on ODOT regarding Auto License Plates: 803.525 Number of plates issued. The Department of Transportation shall issue two registration plates for every vehicle that is registered by the department except as otherwise provided in this section. Upon renewal or when otherwise provided under ORS 803.555, the department may issue stickers in lieu of or in addition to registration plates. The following shall be issued plates as described: (1) Only one registration plate shall be issued for a moped, motorcycle, trailer, antique vehicle or vehicle of special interest registered by the department. (2) Only one plate shall be issued for a camper that is registered. Stickers may be issued in lieu of a plate. [1983 c.338 §258; 1985 c.668 §12; 1989 c.43 §27; 1991 c.407 §28; 1993 c.741 §119a; 2001 c.25 §1; 2003 c.655 §114] Then I found the definition for Antique Vehicle and Special Interest: Antique Vehicle Plate: Issued to a vehicle that is older than one-half the number of years between the current year and 1900. Vehicle must be maintained as a collector’s item. Special Interest Plate: Issued to a vehicle that is maintained as a collector’s item and is at least 25 years old at time of application or vehicle sanctioned as a vehicle of special interest by an established organization that provides for recognition or is a street rod as defi ned by ORS 801.513. Vehicle may only be used for exhibitions, parades, club activities and similar uses. Owner of vehicle may use old, out-ofseries plate(s), a current-issue plate or DMV may issue plates as pictured. DMV must view and approve any plate used by the owner. DMV will provide a permanent “Special Interest” sticker for plates in current use. Ref: http://www.oregon.gov/ODOT/DMV/vehicle/plateregular.shtml#antique FWIW E This post has been promoted to an article

As far as a second set of finishers, I'm sure that ONE of us has a set we can get to you. And if you are careful with the rivets it is easy enough to swap them out. Secondly, DON'T use the flat black panel. The Flat paint is notorious for getting smudged with wax, dirt, etc. and generally looking ... old and worn in nothing flat. A nice satin is definitely the way to go...if you're going for the black. But if you do choose to keep the yellow, as a suggestion what about introducing some contrast to the contours in the panel? You could air-brush the curve out towards the lens as well as the curve towards the outer portion while leaving the main body of the finisher in yellow. Just enough misting to highlight the change in contour. Then again a simple stripe going around the tail-light would also break that continuous color to the eye. Last, I wasn't aware that front plates were required in Oregon. I'm in Washington so it doesn't apply nor affect me, but IIRC I've seen cars at shows without the front plates on. Anyone know for sure on this? That spoiler would look nice though. E

Sorry to point it out, but there IS a fix for you. The main reason to point it out was that you need to address the bare metal and/or original paint (if any) underneath that area. Since it will be behind the fender AND the support, you won't notice any problems until they are MAJOR problems. Also, since the area is out of sight, the type of repair you do can be very localized and nobody would be the wiser now or even later when disassembled. You've done a very nice job getting rid of the rust, don't let it hide in a small spot. 2¢ E

Bart: The pic I was referring to: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=13830&d=1156272640 If you look you'll note that the black surround above and below the lens is kind of a flat black and way too big to be any of the gaskets back there. Besides, the tail light gasket would have already been installed, as evidenced in this shot: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=13832&d=1156272652 E

Is it my imagination or is the left side (driver's) tail-light finisher in flat black? Look at the pic of the bumper, and compare it to the one of the passenger tail light / finisher. For my 2¢, I think that although it has been painted very nicely, and it has good shine, that it leaves something to be desired. The Z does not have a lot of contrast as far as different colors / textures / surfaces, and changing one of the more visual aspects of it to a monochromatic look....well it kind of leaves the car washed out. While I was never a big fan of the "matchbox gray" as W. Humble describes it, and I have seen several in Flat Black, personally I prefer the Satin Black look, or even a Metallic Black. But that's just my opinion. E

A West Virginia couple, both bonified rednecks, had 9 children. They went to the doctor to see about getting the husband "fixed". The doctor gladly started the required procedure and asked them what finally made them make the decision - why after nine children, would they choose to do this. The husband replied that they had read in a recent article that one out of every ten children being born in the United States was Mexican, and they didn't want to take a chance on having a Mexican baby because neither of them could speak Spanish... Ay chingao....

The area behind the fender support (not mounted in your picture) you can leave white and no one will notice. I wonder why you didn't remove the gasket for the cowl drain tube. If you're going to leave it white, then you want to make sure that you also paint that fender support. The struts will probably be black, so they'll be very noticeable, unless you paint them white. If you plan on driving it, and there is ANY possibility of the tire picking up a small pebble or rock and flinging it inside the wheel well, then you'd be better off using some sort of rubberized undercoating in there. Otherwise you can expect to get a rock chip or more, which you won't readily notice, and eventually get rust in there. If it's going to spend it's remaining days on a trailer, then it doesn't matter. I know you're in Arizona and you don't have a lot of moisture to contend with, so if that's not a concern to you...then don't worry about it and paint it or not as you see fit. E

I'm going to let the real mechanical guru's step in on this. I'm a bodyman / electrical. The true grease-work as this is, I leave up to the experts. But to answer your question as best I can, the vacuum advance is a system attached to the distributor to advance the timing (point of detonation) within the engine based on the amount of vacuum the engine is developing. The more vacuum you generate, the more the timing needs to be adjusted. Usually this is under acceleration as opposed to steady speed, although when the engine is revving quite high there is a lot of vacuum being generated. The Z's are notorious for the mechanical advance that is attached to the vacuum solenoid for going bad. This will result in a situation where the car simply can't / won't accelerate past a given rpm and othertimes of running as if it simply didn't have two or more cylinders igniting. But, this I've gleamed from the real guru's here. E

Have you checked Motor Sports (MSA)? Or Black Dragon? They're two of the larger parts vendors for Z's. I've not received a catalog from either one of them lately, but last one I did get showed them both as having them. E

Just on a hunch, from previous posts: Distributor Advance Mechanism. Specifically the vacuum advance pot. 2¢ E

Ok, here's a perfect example of RICE: This is an obvious attempt at a modification that sadly....didn't make the grade. This is from e-Bay UK, and here's the Auction URL. (Thanks to the Mail-List) http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220017232204&indexURL=2#ebayphotohosting Now, since the pictures and auction will eventually go away and lurk in shame, here are the photos. E

Jeremy; Try tweaking the pivot points. Sometimes all it takes is one tiny little tweak to release the pressure on that axle, and it will keep running. E

Stephen got it. The girl with the wind blowing behind her (there's a pun there if you look hard enough), is an unexpected sight. Not something you go out planning to see or find, but when it happens....you smile and savor the moment. That's Eye-Candy. A beautiful car, modified or not, accesorized or not, and as pleasant as viewing it may be, IMO can't possibly give you the pleasure that the young lady in the first picture does. (With respectful apologies to those who DO derive such pleasure.) But as to modificaitons, is that sometimes they are not only unnecessary, but sometimes downright oxymorons and sometimes they DO look good. I recently saw a late 80's Buick Century with extra wide rear tires with flares and thinner tires in the front. The car had a retro back to the 70's look to it, with the raised rear end, lowered front etc. In general, the car DID look presentable and acceptable.....except it's a front wheel drive car. Which renders the whole of his modifications in the "Huh?" category. BUT overall, the car did look good. So while this would ~technically~ be rice, it did look acceptable. However, some modifications are blatantly....wrong. Four foot tall air wing on the back of a Civic? Hood Scoops on a VW? Six inch exhaust tip surrounding an 1-1/2" muffler pipe? These are the ones that didn't make the grade. And although people are ribbing Prox about his Home Depot Air Dam....I think it looks ok....at least in the pictures he sent in. Maybe he's an excellent photographer and he's not showing us the bad shots..... It isn't WHAT the mod is made from, it's what it ends up looking like. Granted, I hope for his sake that he never encounters any streets that are less smooth than a billiard table, but maybe that's why he went with the Home Depot stuff...it's cheap and disposable. FWIW E

Not to divert the main topic, but in hopes of actually diving in with both feet.... I think that the posts so far point out that the term "Rice" or "Ricer" are being flung and slapped onto vehicles that would be better termed "Modified" or "Custom", while proclaiming that that defines the term. Where the mechanics and applications of the term are in fact what eventually creates the term (I'll explain in a bit), sometimes the term is so vague as to deny / defy where it came from. (Confused? Then hang on...) IMO, Rice refers to that modification of vehicles to appear / sound as if they had in fact been modified to the extent that their appearance shows. That is, Large Air Wings to imply that the car travels so quickly that it needs the additional downforce of an air wing (on a Front Wheel Drive car, where it would prove disastrous). Extra Large Exhaust Pipes, whether out the back, or on the side, or .... to imply that the engine needs to have this size piping due to it's "oversized" capacity....while still maintaining "street-legal" status (ever seen a dragster with a muffler?) that must be made to reverberate in order to mimic the sound of a truly needed exhaust system. Oversized tires to imply that the cornering / acceleration abilities of this vehicle are such that the extra contact rubber on the pavement are required in order to maintain control, while forgetting the offset and having them rub on the fenders, or my personal favorite, the extra wide tires on not wide rims. The addition of "High Performance" Air Filters....with the additional wind vanes, vortex generators and ionic particle chargers to ensure that the positive ions in the air being sucked into the engine have been mollecularly aligned to ensure efficient combustion of the similarly magnetically aligned gasoline being injected. But not using a fuel filter because you're afraid of "Restrictive Fuel Flow" or disturbing the magnetic flux you've imposed. Of course, the required "sponshorship" stickers all over the car to denote that without the corporate backing of this vehicle, it would not have been possible to effect it's rise to "fame" (while ignoring the fact that you've turned your car into a rolling bill-board of cheap advertising that YOU paid for). Even better, you don't have to actually USE the product to plaster their sticker, or my favorite, plastering competing companies stickers all over the car....when you can only use ONE of them, or when one negates the use of the other(s). Ever notice that the flashier stickers are sometimes for items that really do NOT enhance performance? And let's not forget the almost required Japanese Script across one or more windows....that only Japanese people and people fluent in the language can read....that usually you find out is; Upside Down, or says something like "Minuscule Sex Organ" or "Sexual Intelectual" or "Ostrich Brain Transplant Recipient". So what about the true-blue modified vehicles? A car that has had it's springs changed / modified / supplemented in order to achieve a different response in handling would be entitled to denote that with the new spring manufacturer's logo on the car...if only to denote the pride the driver has in having effected that change. The same applies to many other modifications / changes. So what IS the difference between a "Ricer" and a "Custom" or "Modified" vehicle? I think the answer lies in the action verb in the first few definitions...IMPLY. To IMPLY is simply to indicate by inference, or consequence as opposed to a direct statement. Simply put- to express indirectly. In the examples above, they imply that the vehicle has been changed to require those mods, or that it uses those products, or..... But, to get back to the basics, someone who implies to be something that they are not, while not blatantly saying it, is simply....a POSEUR. A Poseur wants you to think that they have the qualities they affect, while ignoring the fact that it is obviously false. So, in the examples given previously, a RICER is another way of saying POSEUR or simply a POSER. They Pose, while not having the ability to perform. So where do the terms Rice and Ricer come from? Rice / Ricer, IMO, come from the fact that, in Japan, for a multitude of reasons but mostly because of the social compression (i.e. large populations in small areas) that they live in in the cities, they need to find ways of individualizing and making their vehicles stand out from the rest. While this is also possible in other countries and cultures, don't forget that the innovative Japanese are the ones with the leading edge on creative electronic products and impressive packaging, and most importantly, they have the disposable income to buy these. Another country to do this...USA. It also happens in Europe, Australia etc., but WHERE a fad starts from is as important in the name it gets as why it gets that name. Japanese guys, in an effort to make their little Honda Civic distinctive in a city filled with Civics, or the little Toyota, etc. would readily buy LED Side Marker Lights, or clear lensed tail-lights with interior Red Lenses...and eventually these get accepted by a lot of people and installed on many vehicles. Now, the individual must find yet something else, and the cycle continues and expands. However, as it has been noted before, you can do a lot to a car in Japan but you can't mess too much with the engines....as that involves a different tax base, never mind the expense of having an engine bored out an additional liter or two. So, it becomes fashionable to APPEAR as if ..... When other folks in other countries copy that, sometimes people will try to mimic the "original" items, with the subsequent cheapening of the original idea that ends up labeling due to the concepts provenance. It is a known item that Japanese cuisine involves a lot of Rice, this isn't a denigrating comment any more than saying Texans like Chili, and Mexicans like Beans...they're basically commonalities amongst a group of people. (A stereotype is not, by itself, an insult.) In the U.S., for years items coming from Japan have had the "Rice" connotation added to them by people who would denigrate the items. Remember when a motorcycle from Japan was called a "Rice-Burner"? Or when walking around with a camera or two on your neck was being a "Japanese Tourist"? How about when riding a Harley-Davidson immediately labeled you as a "Biker" and an "Outlaw"? So owning a Japanese vehicle, technically by the above logic, we're all ricers, i.e. we drive vehicles that came from Japan. But a lot of you will scream; NOT ME! And you are right. Enter the "wannabe", who would also like to have a fast car, and can't afford it. But for pennies on the actual dollar required, he can affect having many of the true blue modifications. And, IMO, the true RICER is born...a POSEUR who hasn't effected any actual changes, just likes to don the appearance of such. That guy, in my opinion, is what makes the term such a laughable and insulting label. I don't mind the change of an exhaust system to include a bigger muffler and tail pipe....I mind the coffee can tip added to a stock muffler. An air spoiler added to the back of a car to change the air flow over the car to stop the exhaust fumes from being sucked into the rear vents is IMO a needed modification. The air wing on the back of a front wheel drive car....displays the driver's ignorance. If in fact the car COULD go fast enough to need that air wing, the car's driving and steering wheels would be lifted off the ground and cause a serious accident. Modifying the fenders to accomodate wider wheels would be rice if it ends up on a car that only goes to the corner store and back. But if it is on a car that does do some energetic driving on a winding country road....no. Then again, if you put on white sidewalls ...it's not rice, it's stupid. So, for my 2¢, a RICED car is one that has had mods, additions, etc that are worthless other than their visual implication....or simply put... a POSEUR. E P.S.: By the way, someone mentioned "Eye-Candy" as being those items added to make a car appealing. Sorry to disagree, the picture attached IS Eye Candy. It makes your eyes happy, they might even water with joy, and best of all, it's non-fattening and you can't be accused of doing it on purpose. The second picture, as pleasing as it is, is simply a modified car.

If you're that concerned about loosing the emblem, instead of the speed nuts that Nissan used (and Carl Beck referenced) or the Flat Speed Nut that DatsunZGuy mentioned, try the PAL nuts in the following attachment. They're kind of like a sheet metal nut that you can thread on the posts. If I recall properly, you can even get some with some caulking inserted in it to waterproof the back of the metal. E 83-89palnut.pdf

You might also check with your local NAPA or Auto Paint Store. They usually have a good selection of interior fasteners and flat nuts are easy enough to find. E

STFU = Shut The Frak Up (Thanks to Battlestar Galactica!) NOS = New, Old Stock Term referring to an Old item that used to be a Stocking item, that was never sold originally. Most commonly refers to items still in their original packaging from years ago, or that have never been installed / used. CZC = Classic Z Car (Club); mainly THIS site. IZCC = Internet Z Car Club (Zhome) E