EScanlon

I had the same problem with a Roadster. Talked to my mechanic and he suggested a very simple procedure that corrected the dumped clutch. Press and depress the clutch pedal while a friend GENTLY taps on the Clutch Master Cylinder. It's possible that when you pushed in the pedal, the cylinder's seal got "stuck" and a little persuasion is needed to get it moving again. It worked for my Roadster. By the way, duplicate posts aren't needed. Most folks check the Active Threads List. HTH E

Ken: Most members use the Active Threads part of the forum, as such, duplicate posts aren't helpful. E

Asta: Regarding the underhood diagram: Are you asking for an engine harness connection diagram or a picture telling you what the items are? As far as having "too much power in hand" and his "worries": Sorry, but this is a truly sorry excuse to say "no" to a Z. I'll wager that whatever daily driver you currently drive has more built-in power and other doo-dads than the Z ever came with. Granted, there is the power to weight ratio, but all that aside, are you the irresponsible type that he should worry what you would do? Or is there another "reason" that he's not comfortable expressing? Your daughter's involvement in this discussion is also perplexing. She may be allowed an opinion but it can be no more than that....then try telling her that you think her skirts are too short or jean's waistband too low and see how far that gets you. Quid pro quo - ipsisima verba. (Selfsame words - Something for something) Have your husband drive the car. Then see what he says. FWIW E

Actually the trim edges on the dial and button surround edges are chromed (like the chrome on the door panels). The only painted areas were the letters and arrows. It IS possible to repair and refresh a cracked / broken faceplate, it just takes a bit of patience. As far as the metal repro's, could it be that the edges are blunt and not tapered off as the real pieces are? That alone would make the repro's appear thicker. Has anyone bought one of these? If so, can you post more details? FWIW E

Roger; If you're not an absolute purist, then there are several auto parts stores that carry generic pumps that will fit the rubber mount underneath the bottle. They may end up being a bit longer, the wrong color or worst case, have the nozzles out at 90° to each other, but they WILL work. FWIW E

Geez Will, just cause you're the one that always goes to town and the rest of us stay here...... J/K...Buddy.... E

Zak: That's actually for a 70. No Rear Window Defrost or Relay, no Fuel Pump wiring, and no Automatic Transmission notation for the Distributor. However, the main part of it will work fine for a M/T 71 Z. E

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260153567023 http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=260153567475 Two prior auctions, anyone know the previous buyer of both: Tutor103? He might be a better source of the info. http://motors.search.ebay.com/_W0QQsassZtutor103 Interestingly, he's also a major seller of Datsun/Roadster/Z and other marque literature. He's out of Oakland, CA E

Hey, if $1000 ain't no big deal, why not shell out $35-40k and buy a brand new never used 350Z and be done with it? (Price may be off, but it should be in the ball park.) Sell the 240Z to someone who won't be measuring the car based on "37 year old" benchmark and you might get $2-3k for it and you'll only have to pay the balance. Your $3k estimate for the engine may be a bit shy, based on what you consider the benchmark, so for grins...double it. That's $6k. Then add in that you'll probaly NOT be satisfied with the interior afterwards, and will want a complete re-do of the interior to include a Bose speaker system and a Blaupunkt stereo.....$6k easy if not closer to $8k Then you'll need a top of the line paint job and body work.....$10k KA--CHING!!! And that's if your body is perfectly straight with no major dings. You're into it for $22k before you swat an eyelid. Definitely go with the 350Z. 2¢ E

Only a very TRUE friend goes downtown to get a couple of BJ's and comes back and gives you one.....j/k

Here you go. First pic shows the in-line fuse holder AND the fuse holder HOLDER on the side of the fuse box. Second pic shows more detail. In the case of this vehicle the fuse holder had already been marked by the original installer. Third pic shows the connection for the Fog Lamps. (Not a part of this thread, but where you would insert a switch to activate power to the fog lamp connectors at the front of the car.) HTH E

Don't worry about ID'ing the circuit, the point was to make sure that the bulb sockets are clean as well as the bulbs. Corrosion inside the sockets would have been a MAJOR source of resistance, and would have caused numerous problems. That you got a spark with one of the wires going to the brake light switch is normal, remember this is powered directly from the fuse box through the Hazard Switch. The color of the wires won't really matter since both the inbound and outbound circuits at the switch use a Green/Yellow wire. The key now is to find out if you're getting a ton of resistance inside the switch. Once that gets resolved we can begin with further isolation of the problem. FWIW E

Before you end up disconnecting everything, remove and test the Brake Switch, which is what you reference in the bold text above. Then check the RESISTANCE at that switch when you have it un-pressed. This is done with a multimeter and set to the Resistance setting (Ω). The switch is a Normally Closed which is held Open (pressed on) until the brake pedal is pushed on (which releases the pressure on the switch). Then the switch is Closed and current can flow. In the Closed position it should have (ideally) NO resistance whatsoever. If it does register resistance, then the only fix for this is to replace the switch. Since you just got it inspected, I would presume that your brake lights DO work. A break in the wire that is shorting out would cause one or both of the tail lights to either NOT work or burn dimly. Either one of these would cause you to fail the inspection for brake lights. Before you disassemble the car trying to find the break in the wire, remove the access panels to the tail-lights and remove and check all the bulbs back there. Corrosion at the base of the bulb will also cause problems of this nature. The base of the bulbs should be corrosion free without any signs of rust or any white powdery substance. If necessary, disconnect the tail-light from the harness then using a wire brush (like the one used to clean battery post terminals) and clean the sockets out. If the bulbs are badly corroded, be careful that the bulb globe isn't about to fall out of the brass base, remove it and just replace them. Disconnecting the tail light wiring is necessary because the brake light circuit is an ALWAYS ON circuit. If you insert your wire brush inside the socket you'll ground the brake light circuit through the rest of the harness including the tail light circuit. You mention: You may have disconnected the Resistor Coil and/or Tach from the circuit and that would be why your car wouldn't run. But that doesn't say you disconnected the REAR wire harness. What Arne was trying to get you to do was to isolate the problem to the BACK or the FRONT of the car. 2¢ E

AFAIK, the fuel pump does NOT have a relay in the 73. Just a 20A fuse in the fuse box area in an in-line fuse holder. It's also only powered through the "RUN" portion of the ignition switch. FWIW E

I can't claim knowledge of the information that Stephen gave. That's why I gave him the praise. I never would have thought of that, and it's that type of information that sets this site apart from the other ones. Back on topic, Craig if you'd like, I'll measure the space in front of my fan and post pics. But I've never had any problems of this nature. FWIW E

Ditto what Will said. Just remember this phrase when being grilled by someone who insists a given part / mod is not "correct" for your car .... "Hmm, it works for me." That's what I use and it's subtle enough that there will be times people will repeat their pointed observation and after the second or third time even the most determined will get the picture. But I agree on modifying or in essence, destroying a rare and otherwise difficult to obtain part in order to replicate a later more common item ... that is don't. I'm sure that amongst this group there will be someone that can help you out with a Series II hatch if that's your wish. FWIW E

Stephen: EXCELLENT! (Thumbs UP!) Kudos for that bit of knowledge .... I'll bet that one has bit a lot of people. E

A lot depends on what you intend for the car. OEM? Get a can of Les Cannaday's OEM Style Grey which is the same color as the tail-light panels. Modified: The range of choices in color alone will dictate the type of paint you use. Looking to stand out? Pick a bright color. Looking to "blend" in? Pick a Black or Dark Grey in Satin. Don't go with a Flat, it's real hard to keep clean. As far as recommendations on brand and type Rustoleum, Dupli-Color, Krylon, even Fred Meyer brand all have good paint, but all of these brands will require some preparation before hand. Which one will be mostly influenced by what color you pick, then by what surface preparation you have or need to do. It's not so simple to say which brand / color ... that depends on you. FWIW E FWIW

Actually Art, that's a very limited edition Florida Wing Window .... only available in Florida. E

$300 would be a good price. Right Rear Fender Lip looks a bit iffy ... at least the paint is chipped on the lip itself. Pictures aren't close enough, nor clear enough to discern rockers, fenders, and no view of the floor pans. Do a search and research "no-rust" and see how many items you find to check. But, for $300, you may be able to ... at worst case scenario ... part it out and make your money back. E

Darbji: We haven't had enough women on the forum to be able to ascertain the applicability of a well known phenomenon amongst us male Z owners as to you women. I don't know if you carry a purse, or a billfold or some type of small clutch purse or even a regular fold wallet, but do not, I repeat, DO NOT put it on the console. Especially if you have any money in it, or you've recently been paid. We men do not put our wallet on the console for the same reason. The Z can SENSE if you have money .... and if it does .... BLAMMO... something breaks, or suddenly needs urgent and expensive replacement. Don't laugh. It's been documented ... OFTEN!! This is NOT, repeat NOT, a gag, prank, or otherwise "inside" joke where we all get the "newbie" (meaning you) to go find a "Skyhook", a gallon of "jet wash", catching "snipes" in pillow cases out in the woods late in the evening on camping trips or some other made up item. This, as unbelievable as it sounds..... is true. You'll see. There will be others who will post similar experiences, and all have the "I put my wallet on the console for just a few seconds, and all of a sudden ...." ring to them. This isn't limited to any one year, nor any one country either, although there have been some who claim it's mostly a North American market phenomenon than other countries or that it happens more often here than in other countries..... doesn't matter. The point is, the car can SENSE money. I had a driver's side rear tire decide to pass me at 65 mph, not two weeks after she'd been to the mechanic for a COMPLETE check up, tune up, valve adjust, brake pads (all 4), brake bleed (needed 2 new rear wheel cylinders), and a general intensive check it and replace it or fix it if the item is questionable. I had specified that I wanted absolutely NO WORRIES when I got the car back. Know any mechanic that would ignore anything then? Well, on my way to the Dentist that morning, I put my wallet on the console while I ran inside to get my cell phone charger. On the way to the Dr., the driver's side half shaft decided to come loose and rattled the wheel so badly that the lugnuts were literally rattled OFF the car and blammo.... one rear tire that passed me at 65 mph. That was 5 years ago. I've NOT put my wallet on the console ever again. The only problem I have had since was a couple of stuck rear wheel brake cylinders due to not driving the car for long enough distances. I drove her weekly, just not for long distances, so the cylinders got rust on their exposed surfaces (we're in the PacNW). There will be others who will post similar stories. Believe me, you WILL believe, and once you believe.... you'll practically be immune. FWIW E

Ditto with the general consensus. Swap out the "flat-tops" with a good set of Round Tops. Save the Flat tops AND any other of the smog items you remove (air pump, vacuum solenoids etc.) and put them in zip-loc baggies or just in boxes until that day years from now when you sell the car or give it to your kids. While that thought may be untenable at this point in time, when you're looking to move into a nursing home they'll be an added plus to the next owner. He may not put them on, but they're an original piece of the car. Or he may bless you for it when the Republic of Californicate's concept of imposing non-existent and ludicrous smog standards on 40+ year old cars rolls around to your state and he's required to put on the original smog equipment .... whether it was functional or not .... or pay a fine. Don't laugh. They're looking to "decrease pollution" by the 1% of all cars represented by older cars that are still around, while ignoring that those 35+ year old cars are better maintained and less driven than the average 5 and 10 year old cars. Wait till you have to find a 35 year old air pump that you can install on your pristine 72 Z just to placate some DEQ weenie. 2¢ E

For that amount of rust, Renu may be overkill. However, the process does claim to fully coat inside and out and to restore otherwise shot tanks. It is a franchise service, so dealer performance may vary. You may want to check into shipping a fuel tank across state borders, that may be the biggest obstacle. FWIW E

Carl: You're right. It is a glue on seal on the inner weatherstrip. Don't know why I remembered it as being held in place with welting. (Maybe it was due to the incorrect seal that had been used on my 67-SPL311?) E

The hatch has two sets of weatherstripping. One goes around the inner opening itself, and it's held on by pinch welding molded into the seal. The second is the item you're referring to as coming in 3 pieces. While the 3 piece item (the two sides are of the same style) is technically correct, some people have expressed that they like using the center item piece (with the bulb attached) in a longer length all the way around the top 3 sides more than the 3 separate pieces because it seals the rain out better. FWIW E