EScanlon

Message forwarded. E

, good point Arne. E

My 2¢ take... Older guy who is now wanting to get back to his car from years ago. He's kept it all this time and is looking to "do it right" rather than just farm it out ot a shop. He searched on-line, which for him is a fairly advanced use of a technology (discussion/forum sites) and is attempting to find out what is and isn't to be expected/had and is hoping for some guidance. Since he's a self-admitted new guy, he's asking in what to him may be the least obstrusive and offensive manner, all the particulars about asking for help. To some folks here...his manner of writing is a shill for a spam-bot or some other form of scammer. As a result they've given somewhat off-the-cuff answers (possibly to maximize deniability) and maintained their "guard" up high. When he responds to the offer of someone calling him by naively posting his phone number rather than using a PM, it is seen as "proof-positive" by those people that it is indeed a bot/scam. The reverse phone look up confirms that it "matches" the name given but that is still seen as "doubtful". Hence my post. There will still be those who doubt and are hoping that my statements will be proven wrong. If some of those same people went back and checked their own first few posts on car forums..... as others say "just saying..." E

Gene Winfield was at the Portland Roadster Show this and last year. Although I didn't get a chance to talk to him here, I did - briefly- at SEMA where he also had some vehicles showing. He is approachable, friendly and almost dismissively modest about his impact to custom cars and the genre. His gentle and pleasant demeanor make him a hit at any car show. E

That's pretty cool! There have been other "replica" cars that have been attempted, some on the Z's body and others on other bodys (like the Mazda mentioned on the site). Maybe this one will take off. The Ferrari GTO, the "Pantera" styled hatch, the Updated Roadster as well as the Updated Z come to mind within the Japanese genre. But within American vehicles, the Shelby GT, the Ford GT-40 both the replicas of the original and the updated version released by Ford just a few years ago. And let's not forget the many styles of replica vehicles built on VW pans, Ford Pinto, Chevette and Ford Mustang II frames (Dune Buggies, MG's, 30's M-B's anyone?). Some of those vehicles have even attained their own fan clubs. One last group were the customized versions of the Buick, Cadillac, and Chevrolet cars in the mid 80's into "classic" looking modern vehicles (Excalibur is one name I remember). There will be those who turn their nose up at them, (Sorry Jerry), and there are those that find them interesting. Any way you look at it, it's all part of having a "unique" car that drives the folks who have the vision to try. FWIW E

By the time I saw the flapper valve, the engine had already been removed and the front end / suspension was in the process of being removed. The flapper valve was NOT mounted to the battery tray, but to the BOX FRAME of the BODY. This is the part of the body where the tie-rods (?) connect to and it eventually becomes the floor frame rails. I vaguely recall that it had a clamp screwed to the body near the brake and fuel lines coming from the back and going to the front. Sorry, but I didn't get a real tight look at it and when we removed the interior A/C components, I was inside and my buddy was outside disassembling and removing the other components. E

So instead of conjecturing the guy's newness and lack of savoir faire into some evil intentioned willingness to suck the life out of you, why won't one of you pick up the phone and call? It may be as benign as an older gentleman who is looking to get his car back on the road and has no idea to where to turn to in order to get some "friendly" help without gouging him into bankruptcy. If you're concerned that the guy will somehow magically suck the life out of you through the phone line, or has some amazing power to deceive, go to a payphone, or use Caller Block and make your phone call. E

I just helped remove the A/C from a friends car and the flapper drain hose was located just below the battery tray on the body box member's engine side (allowing the condensation to drain out to the ground). FWIW E

Yikes, that had to be a bit creative to swap the cables that way. They're pretty much sized to fit SPECIFICALLY to their function. Good job on the heater plenum. Done properly you'll find that you usually only use the first third or so of the "heat" portion, or at least that's been my experience. E

The piece of sheet metal is just as you described it: (edit mine)That's what is missing from the picture Chris posted and it would hide that "V" cup he makes reference to, which might explain why it did not look familiar to you. I only have AC in my DD and rarely have the need for it here in the PacNW and haven't had it in any other vehicle ever, so I'll admit to being a rank amateur regarding it's use. So, just as a point of discussion, when the car is totally hot what I do is first open the windows, run the AC with the Fresh Air Vent OPEN to vent all the hot air, then when it's exhausted the hot air out of the car and the vents, then it's close the windows first, and once the temperature begins to change, THEN I put it on re-circulate. You mention a different procedure, can you elaborate/explain? Also as far as the ventilation controls, there are only 3 levers and 4 cables/wires, so I'm curious as to what the IPO did that was so bad if only to be able to help others. FWIW E

Felt huh? All the panels I've ever worked with, both removing for the first time in a car and salvaging from bone yards had a real thin open cell foam strip that had mostly disintegrated. Not saying that it isn't possible, but didn't run into any with felt. The biggest advantage is that if necessary you can double layer the tape to fill in larger gaps. The rubber washers helped the squeaking from the rivets. The rubberized undercoating on the back sounds good too. I used some left over pieces of tar mat and they helped quiet down the interior by a good amount. FWIW E

Closed Cell Foam tape at the junctions of the panels as well as rubber washers glued to the back side of the rivet holes. The foam tape can be obtained at Lowe's, Home Depot and other Building Supply outlets, you can typically get it in various widths and thicknesses. I used both a 1/2" and a 5/8" wide tape and in both 1/8" and 3/16" thicknesses. It just depended on which panels I was putting together and the gap that I needed to fill. FWIW E

Jerry, you've inverted the sequence. Series I are the ones with the CLOSED C-pillars, i.e. no vent hole, a "240-Z" emblem and the Vent Grilles in the Hatch Sheet Metal. Their "outlet/inlet" was the flap on the inner hatch upholstery itself, and they had the drain hoses/holes at the bottom of the hatch. Those drain holes got plugged for the Series II, but were sitll there. Series II are the ones with the "Z" round vent emblem. These are sided, the RH side one, as you look at it on the vehicle will have gaps in the outermost edge of the metal at the 12, 6, and 9 o'clock positions. The LH side, on the vehicle has the gaps at the 12, 6 and 3 o'clock positions. Both emblems have cutouts around the center circle with the "Z". E

Chris mentions the air vent holes, and without going to the car to verify, if memory serves, there is supposed to be a set of vent holes right above the shock tower that look like a pair of speaker holes. It makes the rear plastic panels appear to have TWO sets of speakers behind them, when only one is for the speaker and the other is for the ventilation. The earlier series (Series I - with the vents in the hatch) did not have that vent nor the holes in the plastic panels. It may be that you have an earlier series set of plastic panels. If your panels don't have the vent holes above the shock tower, you might consider seeing if someone will swap you. The earlier panels didn't have the right "bulge" for the evaporator tank and possibly the hatch air shock (Don't recall specifically on the hatch support). Also, in the picture he posted, it should be noted that the interior metal support that hides that "V" is not there, that picture is from a vehicle being repaired if memory serves. FWIW E

I don't have that problem, as I don't have an external storage barn or sliding door, so this is just a WAG from outside the box. From the second picture, I presume that the birds are nesting in the space between the "V" for the rollers and the top of the door OR they are actually getting INSIDE the "V" for the roller wheels. If so, have you thought of using those nylon bristle brushes like they use on over-the-road trailers... the 18 wheeler ones. Those nylon brushes can be cut such that they just overlap the "V" in the center and still allow the support rod going to the roller carriage to travel between them. Another small piece can be mounted at the leading and trailing edges of the top of the door to close off that space. Between the two, they would create a barrier to the birds being able to enter easily, and should deter them completely. Just a thought... E

The interior of the Z is anything BUT hermetically sealed. Unless your rear plastic panel parts do not have speaker holes, then that's one way that air gets behind the plastic panels. Otherways, the gap at the front/top of the overhead light panel as well as the gap all around the edge of the headliner, the gap at the edges of the rear quarter windows and the gaps between the plastic panels. So, Yes Chris, the Z emblems at the C pillars DO vent the interior of the Z. Hopefully this restores your faith. FWIW E

Interesting... At a wild a$$ guess, and as far as I know the 73's did NOT come with Cruise Control from the factory, if that could be part of the starter interlock mechanism / seat belt warning system. That red wire seems to go to a bulb. If it is a bulb, remove it and shine a flashlight through the hole in the back and see what "lights" up on the face of the speedo. If it's a Seat Belt Warning Avatar, there you go, if not, it would be interesting to know what it is. If on the other hand it isn't a bulb, that would be interesting to investigate as well. FWIW E

I stumbled onto 303 Aerospace Protectant at a pool store. They recommend it for outdoor hot tub covers and inflatable pools. I use it now that Clear Guard is no longer available. The literature and the reviews claim it's SPF for vinyl and plastics. I've been using it on the 25+ year old vinyl top on the Roadster. E

It reminds me of some Grant steering wheels, except the Grant's didn't have the horn in the space in the spokes. Could also be from a Mustang II. E

What kind of training did you get that with ONE picture you can evaluate better than some shops with the actual car in front of them? Sorry if I'm just a tad bit over-whelmed with your post. While what you post is plausible, and even likely.... if in fact that car did get into a front end accident and we're not just looking at flaking re-painted parts, it's still a long way to go before you can ascertain all the damage you're citing. I can't even find the supposed bondo on the rad support. FWIW E

Why not just LOOK at the tank... it's located in the rear of the car, below the hatch/trunk floor area. This might answer a LOT of questions. It may be that the car got run up on a curb, stump, what-not and ented the tank such that it is only allowing one of the sides of the baffle insde to hold/release gas to the intake tube. If it got dented, even a small amount, the metal may be pressing up against the bottom edge of the baffle and the other side of the baffle has become a hold. FWIW E

Have the tow company send a flat-bed tow truck, then you could pump air in to the tires and they should hold long enough to get the car onto the flat bed. Tow the car, and do the same once you're home. Then you can replace the tires at your leisure. E

I too am missing the 3rd volume, and haven't splurged for it as spending money hasn't been in the budget for a while. However, from what I hear it's also a "must" have. Interestingly, he's having his "anniversary" sale right now: I know for a while he was offering the 3rd by itself, but I don't know if he is now or not. You might ask him, he may still have loose copies of it by itself. FWIW E

And they ARE a blast! I own two, a 67-1600 and a 68-2000. The 67 is our currrent main ride (sorry Z) and the 68 is in work. Thankfully my wife just wants to be the passenger a la Driving Miss Daisy. E

Scott Scheeler's book is now a trilogy. E