EScanlon

I went the nail polish route out of desperation. Desperation out of having the Bare Metal Foil continuously peel off and wrinkle etc. I had tried the silver paint from Model Master but I could see the brush marks. I couldn't see any of the brush marks when I got done with the Nail Polish. Since it hasn't chipped or come off, I can't tell you if it marred the plastic or not. It does clean up with Acetone, and Acetone can damage the plastic, so I would advise caution. But again, since it hasn't FAILED, I haven't checked to see what damage has occurred using it, and is hidden beneath. I mentioned the name of the brand, hoping that you might be able to find that in a local drug store or whatever store in Australia may have Sally Hansen Nail Polish. In my international travels, I've been amazed at how "quickly" female products cross borders as opposed to "male" products. (Nail Polish, Pantyhose, Perfume as opposed to Motor Oil Additives, Tools, or in this case Spray or Bottle Paints.) FWIW

Nice Job, Nice Color, Excellent Shine, Looks Flawless. Now you're in deep trouble. You'll have to make sure that everything you do from here on out fits in with this paint job! Keep the pictures coming...... Enrique

I've tried the following methods: Bare Metal Foil. Looks= EXCELLENT! However, not very durable. Especially when you are trimming it to fit just on the raised edge. Model Master Silver Paint. Looks = Good to Excellent! Be careful of smudging and / or having to remove stray paint drops. Those paint drops will literally allow the metallic particles to ETCH themselves into the plastic like if you had sandblasted them in. i.e. you can never REALLY remove silver paint from black plastic and not leave some form of silvery stain, without having to sand or strip. And here's the kicker: Lately there have been various shades of nail polish (Yes, NAIL POLISH), which fit this job EXCELLENTLY. Sally Hansen's line of Metallic Polish are some of the best paints for touching up silvered trim / accents. They only cost a couple bucks and you can get them in SHADES of Chrome. I tried them on a couple pieces of edging that I'd done with Bare Metal Foil that chipped and needed redoing. Can't tell you how they ended, because they are still ok. 2¢

Ben: From your description it sounds as though you are referring to the 73 and later panel above the shifter and below the heater control panel. If memory serves me correctly the other light you are referring to is the Choke ON warning light. Anyone else have an opinion on that? 2¢

Ditto Bambi! 2¢ Victor, whoever "He" was he either confused your year of car, or didn't know this quirkly little factoid. The Z has dozens of little unknown quirks that apply to one year and not the others. Stuff that would seem to be "common knowledge" turns out to be interesting discussion between people who enjoy those cars. You know there ought to be a place where we can discuss that stuff...... Just to point out some of the "obvious" ones. These observations are based on U.S. market cars, and as discussion on this site has shown, should not be considered as definitive all over the world. The Steering Wheel did NOT have the cutouts in the spokes the first year. The Seats did not tip forward to allow access to the hatch from the door openings the first year or so. Also the reclining mechanism was more of a "Tilt" the backrest style than an actual recline. The reclining adjustment knob was on the tranny side of the seat. The Seat Back had 4 chrome Vent caps installed in the seat. Since the seat back actually moved in relation to the seat, without the seat back support arms actually moving, the spacing between the seat back and cushion is slightly higher in the first year or so. The Illuminated Heater Control Console came out only for the 73 model. The 74 changed the console, and before they weren't illuminated. You'll never get heat out of the eyeball vents or the center vent. (Unless you're down south and you've had the A /C going all day and you suddenly pop open the fresh air vent.) At least from the Heater Unit on top of the Transmission Tunnel. Throttle Controls were available ONLY on the early console series (in the U.S.) and only if the car had a Manual Transmission. The first dashes had an uncut hole above the Hazard Switch. That hole was for the Fog Lamp Switch, which very, very few U.S. cars received (if any). The Cigar Lighter and Ash Tray were located to the front of the shift handle. Later, this was used to mount the Cigar Lighter. In some transition models or possibly "restored" models, it's not unusual to discover TWO cigar lighters (one in each location) or possibly a hole on the Fuse Box Cover / Ash Tray. Additionally, the very early dashes had the Toggle Hazard Switch. This switch later had a little label put to the side to denote how to operate it. When that label was added, the area it resides in was indented to protect the label from peeling off. The Toggle Hazard Switch was eventually replaced with the PULL Hazard Switch, which received it's illumination via a Fiber Optic Cable. That Fiber Optic system also illuminated the Cigar Lighter Receptacle. The Gas Filler Door on the early models had a Latch which when turned would latch the door. At some dealerships and also enterprising owners, this was replaced with a Lock, in order to provide a Locking Door. The Gas Cap on early models was also chained to the filler neck, yet another reason for that rubber flap that pops out like a bib. I know of a few more, but anyone else want to chime in with theirs?

Whether to use Bondo or Red Cap Filler or High Fill primer will depend on how deep and how irregular the surface is around the dent. Personally, whenever I can access both sides of the sheet metal and I can tap the dent down, using a shrinking hammer or other techniques, I do my darndest to reduce that dent so that the LEAST amount of, again, one of the filler methods mentioned above is required. If you do the metal work PROPERLY, then the amount of bondo, filler, primer, etc. you use will be MINIMAL, and it shouldn't be noticeable PERIOD. If it is noticeable, then it's less than a good job, in fact, I would rate it a poor job. The reduction in value of a car is usually due to POOR bodywork rather than GOOD body work. So when it comes to the "acceptability" of using Bondo, it becomes more a question of: if you don't know that Bondo was used ......... Bondo is not the all around "EVIL" that people make it out to be. Do you honestly believe that if a car got a ding in one of the fenders as it is rolling through the assembly line that they would destroy the car? or destroy the fender? Possibly replace the fender, if that can be done, but if it can't, I'll guarantee that there's a small section of the assembly line that does nothing but repair "oopses". For what it's worth.

There are four corners to the hatch. The mounting location for the hinges to the body provides the BULK of the adjustments to the hatch. You have movement up and down to adjust for general alignment of the face of the hatch to the edges of the body. However, used properly it can also adjust the top corners versus the bottom corners. Additionally you can add spacers to one hinge between hinge and body, or hinge and hatch, or at the latch. As far as the taillights, they are one piece lens with the chrome trim you are referring to being separate from the lens. However, it is impossible to find that chrome piece separate from the lens. If you DO succeed in finding a source, PLEASE POST IT! As I'm sure there are several of us who would like to replace the chrome trim on their tail lights. The left side is usually the one to go bad as it's directly above the exhaust and the chrome piece is just plastic with a thin metal plating. The Right Side is usually in good condition, but unfortunately the sides don't interchange. New Old Stock Lenses sometimes show up on e-Bay, but they ALWAYS go for high dollars, and they are EXTREMELY rare. Used ones are a possibility, but I would DEFINITELY want to look before I bought. There are just too many things that can go wrong with that chrome piece; peeling, pitting, bubbling, wrinkling, oxidizing, losing the pins, etc. 2¢

One very important point to remember when looking at Z's, check for rust in all the hidden areas. Read some of the archives here and educate yourself as to what to look for. Next, when you are looking, buy the car that is in the absolute BEST condition you can get. Granted, you will pay more. How much more depends on the seller. However, I can't make this point strongly enough, a Fixer Upper is good, IF YOU HAVE LOTS OF TIME AND MONEY. And believe me when I say, you will EASILY invest 4-5 THOUSAND dollars upgrading a $2k car to what you will consider a 20 footer. (A car that looks good from 20' away.) Buying a $5k car that is pretty much intact, except for some cosmetic work will be MUCH CHEAPER in the long run than that $2k car needing "Fixing". Now, if you're planning on modifying it out, or doing various changes to the interior, body, paint etc, then at least get a car that has the MINIMUM amount of rust, preferably NONE. Although very honestly, if it has NONE it will probably be a garaged and babied car and you will really hate yourself for modifying it all out. Just my 2¢

Actually the liquid Electrical Tape is good stuff. I used Plasti Kote in the spray can cause I had it on hand. With regards to the fuse box. The drawing he has matches the one in the Sports Z Magazine, but those don't match Inf's. The one in Zparts could be any of them, since you never see the back. The KEY thing here is that the "GOOD" solution that was posted at ZGarage should have said that it was only good for X year Fuse Boxes. I'm sorry I don't know WHICH year, but I know it isn't the 70-71 it might be a later year, but I don't know. Therein lies why I jumped on your reply. Inf's pic clearly showed that adding that wire to join all the wires on one side would shunt two circuits that were separate AT the fuse box. In re-reading the article in Sports Z, the author also advocates tightening the crimps at the connections before soldering and sealing. I did that by using a punch and anvil. Anyhow, hope he gets his done well. 2¢

What's your handle on Zcar? Went there and no TexasZ. Are you sure you're not referring to Zcarchat.com? That's the only site where your post would get bumped to the top. Or Zdriver.com?

Mike, unless you are going for a Concours restoration, and trust me that is an extremely anal endeavour, I wouldn't worry much about it being "stock". I have a 1971, which I could put to bone stock. But I like the illuminated Heater Control Panel from the 73, and the reclineable seats from the 72+, and I've added the Throttle Control to an Automatic Car, and my Fog Lamps are Wallie Mart Specials, and I'll be finagling a Hazard Switch to act as a Fog Lamp Switch and this summer I'll be adding the Parking Lamp Switch and wiring to light up the traffic side of the vehicle (*Special Thank You to Kats). And let's not forget my Wheels, and the Louvers both back and side, and the pin-striping, and the gloss black rocker panels........ Do you get the drift? The idea is make the car YOURS. If you have a thing for White interiors, have a nut. If you want them Red, go for it. Now if you get real outlandish, send in pics and we have a special gallery for those cars. (Check out the Bright Metallic Blue Diamond Tuck) But whatever you do, its the car that YOU will be driving. Not one of us. 2¢

Better yet, post his handle on ZCar.com and let some of us have a whack at him. Nothing like a battle of wits with someone who can't even get into the fight. Hmmm, which forum? It isn't Deeman is it? He's one of them that I know that has continued to plumb new depths in human stupidity. 2¢

Carl: In all honesty, I did not disassembly my fuse box and do the solder technique. I tried but felt that the heat was going to exceed the melting point of the plastic and I just gave up. What I did do, was to use a punch and small anvil to smash down the rivets tighter, and I did that without removing the fuse holders from the fuse box itself. I believe that you can remove them from the fuse box simply by pushing in the two little tabs that stick out on each side of the fuse holder, but I'll admit that I'm going off memory and it's been months since I had the fuse box open and was working on it. Then I gave the back of the fuse box a shot with some clear Plasti-Kote in a spray can. Just enough to put a thin film of "plastic" to protect from the elements. I also replaced the headlights with the new Zenon tubes (Not the high wattage ones) and have been extremely pleased with the results. But now you got me thinking, and I'll have to get out there and check. Enrique Scanlon

In the article in Sports Z Magazine's last issue that has been cited previously and by myself above, Joe Demers makes note of this dielectric grease. His statement is that in HIGH Voltage LOW current applications, the dielectric grease does not cause problems. However, in HIGH Current situations, regardless of voltage, he recommends against it. Joe points out that dielectric grease is NON-conductive, but effective in preventing corrosion. What he recommends for the crimped connections is soldering and to be covered with some form of RTV (Room Temperature Vulcanizing) coating or Shrink-Wrap tubing. As far as how to clean that film off the back, you could grind, sand, sandblast or, since you're considering soldering at least the crimped joint, why not remove the joint from the fuse box, and use a good quality Rosin Core Solder. As long as you can get the metal hot enough the rosin usually has enough acid in it to bite through most coatings. 2¢

Just remember that the wiring for the 240 was designed with the older 55W/45W lights and not the newer 100W/90W. By doubling that wattage you are increasing the amount of current and therefore load on the wiring. If there are ANY flaws (i.e. resistance points) in your system you WILL cause problems. 2¢

Now, the reason I posted the above so strongly is that one very important note must be made: THE FUSE BOX IN Inf's GALLERY DOES NOT MATCH THE ONE IN SPORTS Z MAGAZINE. The one in Sports Z Magazine is a different style, in that the whole passenger side does indeed have a brass bar connecting the input side of all those fuses. Soldering that side would be a good idea IN ADDITION to tightening the crimps. Only two White wires connect to that side. Read the article if you have doubts. But if you look at Inf's you'll right away note the difference on the passenger side. Inf's has a White/Red wire on the bottom with a rubber cap hiding the bolt/nut and a Red wire which connects to the Headlights. Shunt here and your lights stay on all the time. Enrique Scanlon

Sorry Dave, but your theory won't wash. This is exactly the type of problem that Alan H. rallies against, the A$$umption that because you read it on the internet it makes it not only TRUE, but irrefutable. In this case, the author has done some "fixing" but I would love to find out if this really did in fact eliminate his problems, and not cause a whole new series of them. Look at the schematic for the 240, and if you go to the "one side" theory, what you'll discover is that you will be joining circuits that are NOT designed to be joined. The 240Z fuse box has TWO columns of fuses not one. Go ahead, try to decide which passenger side he was referring to. Next, if you look at the little drawing showing which side to solder, you'll note that he refers to only soldering one side of the fuse box, and his diagram shows 6 fuses. Now I'm not sure if he's referring to a 240Z or a SRL/SPL vehicle, but MY Z has 10 fuses, and my SRL 311 has 6. His connections, all on the one side of the fuse box do eventually connect on the SRL311 wiring diagram but NOT on the 240Z's. On the Z, the least you'll do is have your fuel pump, accessory relay and resistor and tach contstantly "live", as well as the headlights. EVEN WITH THE IGNITION OFF. That is if you connect the wires on the one side. If you connect them on the other, then you'll REALLY cause heck. On the 240 Z wiring diagram, look SPECIFICALLY at the bottom side of the fuse box drawn. You'll note a Blue/Red Wire and a Black/White all the way to the right hand side of the bottom edge. Those are SWITCHED via the Ignition and Headlight Switches and only when those switches are turned ON. Join those wires to the White/Red to the left of the fuse box, and you will have defeated the switches, as well as connected the Positive side of the battery directly to the output side of the Alternator and Voltage Regulator. Sounds Yummy doesn't it? So have at it, and watch your system FRY! Or be beset with the thousand and one "mysterious" electrical problems that beset the 240Z's due to half-a$$ed attempts at "fixing". So, IMNSHO, this is a B A D idea. Enrique Scanlon

Having spoken to the agent for Haggerty Insurance which is one of the prime Classic Automobile Insurance companies, be aware of the following: The car MUST be garaged. Garage must be attached to your home and be lockable. Car is limited to "Good Weather" Driving or to and from Car Shows. Limited number of miles per year. Car's condition is evaluated before value is established and to determine if insurance policy is to be granted. 2¢

Flat Black + Shiny Clear Coat = Shiny Black Flat * (color) + Shiny Clear (Transparent) Coat = Shiny * (color) with whatever tint the Clear Coat introduced. This is the same formula that gets used when painting with Candy paints. That is: White Base + Candy Red (15-20 coats) = Deep BRIGHT Red. Silver Base + Candy Red (15-20 coats) = Deep Medium Dark BRIGHT Red. (Then depending on the Metallic content of the silver) Black Base + Candy Red (15-20 coats) = Deep DARK Red. Last note, Candy paints are tipically Clear Coated afterwards to enhance their Gloss. That can also affect their "Depth". Hope this helps. Enrique Scanlon

Chalking, or when the paint is so burnt (dead) that it literally pulverizes on contact. Actually what has happened is that the paint has been oxidized by years of exposure to UV rays and lack of proper washing and waxing. There used to be a wax for sale that purportedly "revived" the paint so it would look good again. The exact name escapes me, but I think Color-Guard or something like that. All it was was COLORED wax in the same color family as your car. It had a high amount of polishing compound in it (in order to remove the oxidizing) and the colored wax was to "tint" whatever was left afterwards. Just more snake oil as far as I'm concerned. You're right, you need to remove that paint, but if the BASE primer or bodywork is in good condition, you don't need to go much further than that. If you have cracks in the primer / bodywork, or if you can see areas where the primer has been exposed to the elements and you can see surface rust, or the primer or base paint is flaking off, then you MUST go to the metal. So, repeating, but concisely, you can D/A the paint off quickly using 80 or 120 grit, 45-55psi at the tool. Sand the PANEL and not just in spots, when you start seeing the primer, you can continue, but I would recommend you just continue on the PAINT. Then, do a second pass using 220 or 320 grit paper to remove the last of the paint and a good amount of the primer and smooth any scratches from the 80/120. You can then go to Etch Primer followed by Fill Primer, or Epoxy and then Fill. Hope this helps. Enrique Scanlon

I also question the adviseablity of soldering down one side and therefore joining all those wires into ONE circuit. I don't think there was much thought put into that, as one of the main problems the Z has is in trying to trace down electrical troubles. Personally, if soldering was deemed a MUST, I would only solder where the connections are already made, and not introduce new wiring into the wiring harness without first investigating it thoroughly. 2¢

Some notes on paint stripper: It can cause chemical burns if you're not careful, and usually, the first indication is when it is ALREADY burning you. Wear gloves, eye protection and if possible an apron designed for the job. You can get these at Harbor Freight or other discount places. Remember you're looking for something to protect YOU from the stuff. You must remove ALL of it from the body afterwards. If you leave little streaks of it in the seams, cracks, corners it WILL leach out when you paint the car and ruin your paint job in that area. It WILL destroy any bodywork that may already be on the car. It will also destroy any primer, caulking, rubber, plastic etc, that it comes in contact with. About the only thing it will NOT destroy, is metal, and if you let it dry, there are some that will say you've ruined the metal as it is a B!TCH to remove then. The DRIED residue can become active again with just the sweat from your body. If you grind, sand, or blow it off the car, it is a burn waiting to happen. Trust me, it does NOT feel good on tender parts of your body. Now, from what you're saying, it sounds as though you're removing ALL the paint. I'm guessing you're doing the typical remove all the paint to the metal type of paint job. I've asked Why? so many other times I'll presume you've read those posts, but I will reiterate that that is not always the BEST way to do a paint job. 2¢

The fuse box connections at the back part of the box usually have a protective film on them that causes solder NOT to sweat the joint properly. You'll end up overheating the connection and melting the plastic if you're not EXTREMELY careful. Also having some of the wires right there, it's possible to melt the insulation on them. I tried the solder method and decided to quit before damage ensued. The biggest problem with the fuse box is that the connections from back to front are RIVETED. You could just tap the ones you perceive are loose, or if you're careful you could give ALL of them another whack with a hammer and punch and you'll reduce the resistance there. Another point, look at the picture you posted showing the front with the fuses. The Lower Right fuse is not centered in the holder. This will also increase resistance, not a lot, but an increase nonetheless. The Middle Right fuse is showing that the holder has overheated, (the brass is darker) be sure to clean the holder well. One real easy way of doing this is to get a small pair of hemostats and clamp a small piece of steel wool in the jaws and twirl the steel wool inside the clamps. Another tool can be obtained from a hardware store, they're called contact cleaners and are just a bunch of fibreglass strands wrapped in a "pencil" The Top Left is showing RUST! Another item that will increase resistance in a circuit. IN a nutshell, take ALL the fuses out, and do a continuity check on them. I've said this time and time again, don't just VISUALLY check them. Yes, that's how fuses are supposed to be checked, and if they're blown that's correct, BUT these glass fuses were and are NOTORIOUS for loose end caps, and broken connections inside the cap. Personally, I wouldn't try to re-use fuses in a fuse box regardless of where I got it, UNLESS it was a brand new in the box. Even then I would do a complete check on them. Rick has some excellent parts, and it's obvious you got an excellent fuse box, but the fuses are a very minor part of it. Pitch them, and start with new ones that you put in AFTER you clean the contacts and tighten the rivets. 2¢

Unfortunately, as far as insurance goes, the fact that you're young and male are your two biggest strikes against you. Now if you can borrow a girl cousins driver's license for a couple weeks, and have her help you wear some of her clothes, then go down and get insurance that way, then you MIGHT stand a chance of getting lower rates. Now if you go there with the Z, you're going to get jacked anyhow. It isn't that we are trying to talk you away from the Z, it's just that it is rated a SPORTS Car. Insurance companies see it written as $P:o RT$. And don't worry about being a newby and getting flamed, I think you'll find that most of us here prefer our newby meat fresh off the hoof. :devious: 2¢

Zach, by the way, I'm here in Vancouver, Washington. So if you want, I could meet with you and take a look at your car and give you some advice right there. Just a thought for you. PM me and we can exchange phone numbers. Next: Green Primer; sounds a lot like Epoxy Primer, or it could be some of the newer Acrylic Urethane. I don't paint the Acrylic Urethanes as some of them have some REAL hazardous fumes and I don't have a full face respirator with outside feed, and that's what I've heard you need. As far as shooting just to get an even coat? I don't know that I would sand down to the metal just to get an even coating, now if you are ALREADY at the metal, then if it IS a Sealer Etcher, then by all means. An etching primer is always PREFERRED over bare metal, and under body work. However, if you've already past that stage, I wouldn't undo all the work just to use it. Mind you, this is all based on your having prepared the metal PROPERLY. Bare metal needs to be etched or at LEAST D/A sanded with 220-360 grit. That way you'll have the fine swirls and ridges that the primer needs to make a solid bond onto the metal. If you did NOT prepare the metal, then you BETTER sand it down so that you can do it properly. At that point, use the Etching Primer. When you mention the Fiber Hair product, I'm supposing you are referring to what we used to call "Gorilla Snot" or "Gorilla Hair". That's basically fibreglass strands in bondo. You probably SHOULD use the sealer over this, but if I recall properly, just fibreglass and bondo mix are ok. The substance you have to worry about is the RESIN that gets used with fibreglass strand mat or cloth. So try to remember if the stuff you used had a greenish tinge to it or maybe a brownish gray (kind of like caramel colored). That WOULD be a resin based bondo, and therefore should be treated as fibreglass. Another absolute sign that you were using fibreglass RESIN based material, is if the catalyst was a clear liquid peroxide. Usually you add it at the rate of 1 drop per ounce of resin. If on the other hand you're talking the plain gray, or almost pale beige stuff, that's regular bondo. The hardener for this is typically a reddish toothpaste-like paste. I've seen blue, black, green hardener so that it isn't red is not an indicator. Phrasing it another way, you won't go wrong using a sealer over the whole car just before the paint. It's just that most sealers aren't very high fillers, so it usually ends up being yet another step. To describe the IDEAL procedure: Body down to metal. All seams seam welded and ground smooth. Total Metal Preparation, whether by using an Etch Primer or a Metal Preparation Wash. Perform all body work required to smooth body. Primer with a Medium Fill or High Fill primer depending on the amount of body work done. Wet sand smooth. Top Cap and sand smooth. Re-prime if necessary and re-sand. Wait at least a week. Inspect for any changes to the body due to shrinkage of the Top Cap. Re-prime if necessary and re-sand. Top the primer with Sealer, giving it a good uniform coat. Wait overnight, then using a fine scuff pad, knock down any bumpies on the sealer. Wax and Grease Remove Mask Wax and Grease Remove Paint Let it sit at least 24 hours before ANY reassembly, and the longer the better for anything that gets fastened to the body and presses on the paint. DO NOT WAX FOR AT LEAST 3-4 MONTHS. If washing is necessary, use copious amounts of water, a drop or two of detergent (the least amount possible) and the softest cloth you have and DO NOT APPLY STRONG PRESSURE. As long as you give me credit for the posting you're welcome to use this elsewhere. The reason for the credit isn't for bragging rights but so that people know whom to ask and whom to blame. Enrique Scanlon