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Those observations are pretty spot on, old Zs are loud, smelly and you can hear everything going on under the car. All of my Zs have been like that and I have had several. The only thing that would concern me is the steering, unless you have really fat sticky tires it should not be heavy at speed. Even with fat tires that does not sound right.

I had a ton of drive train noise in my last Z, ended up being both the trans and rear wheel bearings. But even after fixing those it was still loud.

Not sure what they are but I used fiberglass and epoxy to repair all the plastics in my blue on blue 71'  Worked out very well. 

+1 Metal side out and several thousand miles later no problems!  

You should also consider the dry wiring loom tape with no adhesive. There are brands out there such as Plymouth which can be bought in a 1-1/4" width. The heat of the engine bay will make any adhesive tape very tacky which will in turn, attract dirt and debris. Such grime is an enemy of the wiring harness. Nissan used this same tape that the Corvette and Camaro guys use on their vehicles. Buy the smooth kind and not the fabric type. You can tie off the ends with standard 3M adhesive electrical tape to secure it at the ends. Just my two cents!

+1 here!

I got two rolls of this from Eastwood years ago but I don't know if they sell it any more.

I used those on my car for fuel and bought them at my local Napa along with some nice double lined heater and radiator hoses. I also got some tiny fuel clamps of the same design for the SU carb nozzle lines from an online VW bug parts place. They look snazzy and match the ones i use on the fuel rail.

Dropped off my propeller shaft off at Driveline Service of West Sac to get checked out and balanced. Car developed a horrid vibration starting at 50mph after changing to 4.11 gears. Changed out the U-joints and no difference so off to the shop with it! Wont surprise me if it bent or out of balance, it's kind of a kluge of used parts ;-)

Kats,

Thank you so much for bringing your 432 to the show in San Diego, and much apologizes for the poor quality gas in California. It is no where near as good as the gas in Japan ;-)

I must say your 432 was amazing by the way! Hope to see you here in sunny Cali again some day soon.

Eric

Short nose R230 very stout and a couple LSD options from Nissan I believe. 1973 240Z - Z32 R230 Swap - The Tool Shed - HybridZ 300ZX TT and Armada use this diff.

So is anyone headed down to San Diego Tuesday from Northern California? We have several folks from the Sacramento Datsun Owners Club heading down Monday and Tuesday with a meet in L.A. Tuesday around noon. From There we'll all caravan down to Z-Con in San Diego and plan to be there before 5pm.

If anyone is planning on driving down, either day lets see if we can get some groups together! I'm leaving from Sacramento early Tuesday morning (5am).

Eric

I'd replace all four while you have them apart. Inexpesive parts and no telling how many more bumps that orange thing will take before its toast.

On the strut bearing issue, the fronts should have a bearing in the "hat" that has the three studs in it and the rears should have a similarly shaped plastic spacer.

Carl said: Irwin Vise-Grip Locking Wrench — 7in., Model# 04 | Locking Pliers| Northern Tool + Equipment

That's in ingenious tool my friend! Gotta get one of those ASAP!

Very nice indeed!

I did my struts on my 71' and just took the entire lower control arm and strut off as an assembly and over to the bench. Pop off the spring perch and swap strut cartridge. Took maybe two hours or a bit more total to do both sides. Don't forget the new bump stop or you just might find yourself changing struts again soon if they bottom out and destroy the internal valving.

Ive seen a few pics of cars with those but never in person. Not sure what they are for, maybe someone knows.

Hey, you could get yourself a bunch of little 4mm (think that's the size) studs and covert the oil pan to studs and nuts. Then just push the gasket up onto the studs and follow suit with the oil pan ;-)

I've noticed the wood grain is not very prevalent in some areas of most wheels. mainly the ridges on the back side of the wheel for your fingers. Mostly its the back side that is not as grainy as the outer rim or front side.

+1 ^^^

I run a MN47 head on my stock L24 and it is GREAT! Higher compression (running L24 flat top pistons) and more modern chamber design. I can run full 17 deg base timing and dont get any ping on California 91 pump gas. Your L26 block should already be notched for the larger valves (same as in the late E88) so this will be a direct bolt on and upgrade IMHO. They are prone to cracking between valves though due to the exhaust port liners so watch for that. But if you get a good one I would run it as a DD for sure! I would use the E88 or an Internally oiled cam from 280Z motor instead of the L24E (Maxima) cam though. The L24E cam has slightly less lift than the early L24 or later L28 cams do. But I am running the Maxima cam in my car and it performs well, just not 100% of what it could be if I had a better cam.

Awesome man!

Looks like your clutch fork is not properly seated on the pivot ball to me.

Awesome pics of the JDM factory air!!!!! First closeups I have ever seen.

I'll be there with my 71', it'll be my first as well!

Welcome and I love that Fairlady Z! She needs some TLC for sure though. Would it happen to have the factory AC?

I know this sounds simple but have you checked to see if the throttle is actually retuning to closed when you let off the gas?

Woo-hoo 4:11 gears and new rear struts!!! Sooo much nicer than before, why didn't I do this sooner ;-)

Now it's all set for the trip down to MSA in Socal next week, should be fun.