mrcow

i PMed you about it

awesome, that is exactly what i wanted to know. thanks

i didnt see anything in the haynes manual or service manual that explicitly said the actual size. I cannot figure out what the two different sizes were for. I guess I will try the 8.5” and see what happens, but that wont be until after new years.

well my brake booster is definitely bad since the master cyclinder leaked into it for 10 years (before i owned it). So i was looking for prices on replacement units and i ran into a problem. autozone, napa, rockauto, oreillys all list a 7" and a 8.5" unit for the '73. I looked in my msa catalog and they listed a different unit for every couple of years and the VB catalog had 70-78 all lumped together. (rockauto has 8.5 and 10 listed for 77)So i am a little confused on what unit i need. i am now sitting here at work far away from my vb, msa, and service manual and no one on the forum seems to have discussed booster sizes before. i found a brief post on someone saying they had to mount it upside or something. anyways, if someone could confirm the size of the '73 brake booster i would greatly appreciate it.

well the price really isnt the issue i have right now. what i really want to know is wagner the best, beck/arnley, or something else? have people on here have issues with the parts from the local auto stores or have they been pretty solid pieces? i have seen several posts about the auto stores giving out the wrong parts but that isnt my concern either. i looked at rockauto.com and compared the prices to oreillys and rockauto was $5 cheaper on all the parts. after tax on oreillys and shipping on rockauto it left a $16 difference.

so i am in the market for a new brake master cyclinder, clutch master cyclinder, and slave master cyclinder. so i was browsing Victoria british and comparing their prices to autozone and oreillys. are the brands at autozone and oreillys any good? brakeware, Fenco (reman though), Beck Arnley, Cardone, Brakebest, wagner? What brand is victoria british selling? is it always OEM?

i have a leaking heater hose and i started to try and replace it today. well, shortly there after i was stumped. i have a 73 and is there an easy way to remove and replace the heater hoses? they go through the firewall and connect way up under the dash between the heater and blower i guess. Is it possible to do without removing the dash? thanks for the help

i finally found a car for me. Its a 73 with round tops. anywho, i am planning to drop the gas tank and see whats inside. I expect it to be filled with sludge and rust and who knows what else. From searching and reading the forum for the last few months i know all about the options of gas tank renu, por15 kit, or having a radiator shop boil the tank. However, i havent seen any one talk about prices for a new used tank. ZnZX in houston claims to have several used tanks in excellent condition for sale. What would yall expect the going rate for a gas tank to be? i assume, since most people seem to spend 100-150 to get their tank boiled a new used excellent condition tank should be significantly more expensive. No one answered at znzx when i called to ask about prices and what "excellent" condition really means. Also, i expect i will need to replace the vent hoses as well. Of course msa sells them for an arm and leg so i am looking for alternatives. i assume fuel rated hoses from the auto parts store should work just as well as the msa replacement hoses. I have read about the bent hose problem but i will find a way to get around it. Could someone provide me with what size hose and how long i need for all the vent hoses? I would like to get all the hoses/equipment i need before i start on the project and drop the tank.

Well i went and saw it during lunch. It looks like a pretty solid car. It had a very very old undercoating on it. The undercoating had worn off and there was rusting along the frame rails and floor pan. The battery and wheel wells looked alright. It is definitely a 30 year old car without much done to it over the years. Everything on the car looked 30 years old. The paint and interior are in decent shape which translates to, good enough to live with until you get the time and money to redo it all. assuming the price doesnt spike before the end of the auction i plan on trying to win it. so keep your friend away!!!!!! The guy knows zero about cars so dont expect much info from him. Although, he is a very nice guy. He is definitely not trying to rip anyone off. He was shocked at how high the auction has gone. Basically he said his ebay ad lacked info because A. he doesnt know anything about cars and B. since its a charity it is better to be very general in his statements because if he says "yes it has A/C" and then someone buys it and some part is missing or it doesnt work they cant come back with marvin zindler to sue. ha ha

if you dont mind me asking, why is he not buying it? wrong year, price, the amount of work, just not the right time? did the seller have any history on the car? what was wrong with it when it was parked 6 years ago? i sent the guy an email and he hasnt responded. however, i called the guy 30 mins ago and i plan on going see the car at lunch. so i guess i can just ask then.

checking for rust is the number one item on my list. The car was donated to them so i dont know how much of a history i will be able to get, kind of scares me but oh well. rust/extensive body work scares me but, before i even saw this car, i was planning on doing a full rebuild of everything so that doesnt worry me.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=4552905406&category=6187&sspagename=WDVW#ebayphotohosting i know how much yall like people posting asking if they should buy this car. well i am going to try and check it out at lunch today. I wanted to ask on here if yall see anything strange about the car or a reason to stay away. The hood is kind of throwing me off. it has the vents and doesnt seem to close all the way (it could be they didnt close it for the pictures). Also there are a lot of random wires going around. i guess thats from his CB setup. the engine compartment looks like a mess so it should be quite a project. thanks in advance for any advice.

i am staying away from that car. i guess i will go back to lurking around the forum pretending i have a Z.

i am starting to really question this car. He said the tranny is good but the linkage is sloppy. i asked for a history of the car and got nothing the new springs are actually 10 years old. so i am guessing the rebuilt engine is 10 years old as well, which would explain why it looks so dirty. he wont allow anyone to see the car in person and basically said he wouldnt take any more pictures of the car because the ones on ebay are "sufficient". he also said there is virtual no rust on the car (other then the floor pans). i find it hard to believe there isnt any other rust on the car if the floor pans need to be replaced.

i live in houston, but i might be in austin this weekend. if so i will try and visit the z in SA.

I am a long time lurker and finally i might get a Z. on ebay there is currently a 73 240z in san antonio. The car seems pretty solid except for two things; the car won’t rev over 4000 rpms, and the lack of pictures of any rust or the interior. The owner stated the floor pans need to be replaced but there are no pictures of it or any other rust spots on the vehicle. i know there has to be more rust on the car. I emailed the guy with several questions and a request for more pictures. my main question though, is why would the car not rev over 4000 rpms. He says "due to a fault in the ignition system the engine will not rev above 4000 rpms." I am definitely new to restoring cars and i see this project as my first major learning experience. So, that is why i come to yall. What would yall diagnose the problem as? Finally, he says the 73 carb and intake was replaced with a 72 twin su. I know the 73 model had reduced performance compared to the earlier models, but would this car having the 72 round tops make the 73 more or less equivalent to the earlier cars in performance? i know the 73 is still heavier but are there any other major differences?

sorry tomo but i consider electrical to be part of the rebuild and common sense. the reason i didnt mention it is electrical by itself isnt going to give me the zip i am looking for. so i am searching for ideas on engine work.

So after more reading it seems to beef up the engine you have two choices... stroker or turbo. What are yalls thoughts on those? i guess the real problem is the 77 280z doesnt have the right stuff to go either way.

sorry i didnt mean 3-5k on just the engine. That would be more of the exhuast, intake, headers, and engine rebuild. That is my complete budget to get some more zip in the car. I am not looking to build a drag racer just a daily driver. i guess really what i am asking is what modifications have yall made, for what price, and what performance increase did you get out of it? I plan on fixin up the suspension and brakes as well but that is a different story. Thanks for the replies so far.

I have been lookin at a 77 280z and if i purchase it the first thing in line to do is rebuild the engine. It currently runs fine but it is getting old. I plan on using this car as a daily driver but i am interested in what i can do to crank out those extra horses. I realize headers, exhuast, and intake will help but what else do yall recommend? cam? How much power can be expected from a L28 engine? i will probably spend from $3-5000. I am not looking to do anything radical. I have searched this site and there is a ton of info but it is all spread out and hard to piece together.

I would definitely want a '70-'72 over a 280z but i dont seem to be finding any series ones. The main thing that scares me about 280z is everything you read says "they dont compare to the original 240z." They make it sound like a 280z is a slug compared to a 240z. I also dont like the bumpers on the 280z but that is minor.

So i have been looking for an original 240z but havent come across one. I have however come across a '77 280z. From reading about them they seem to be basically the same besides the engines. the 240z has 150HP and a carb where as the '77 280z has 170hp and FI. From reading about the history of Zs they all claim that after the federal emissions regulations no Z matched the original. Well it seems the '77 with 20 more HP should be around the same performance of the original, i would think? or is the '77 that much heavier? how do these two vehicles compare? should i hold out for a 240z?