zguitar71

I used a vacumme bleader I bought for $35. The clutch: I opened the slave bleeder and pumped the fluid free of bubbles. The brakes: First I blead the master cylinder then the brakes from LR, RR, RF,LF. Make sure the resevoirs are full of fluid and do not pump them dry or the process starts over again. It does not take much vac. pressure, I used about 10lbs according to the dial on the pump. I found the entire process very easy and would not try any other method now. I use the vacume to change the brake fluid in the entire system.

I'm guessing 15's with 60 series tires.

Robello Racing sells Mikuni carbs and parts.

I have always thought aluminum parts would be great for a z. Stuff like the hood, rear deck, front fenders, ect.... All the parts that bolt onto the car. Mostly I just realy like aluminum.

The Zbarn carries the curved rear bar for $25. I bought one from them to change over to a 200 in my car. The diff. I bought already had the front cross member on it so I never realy looked at the difference between the old and the new.

245/45/16 with a 16x9 rim. Put flares on and you could go to a 275/45/16 on a 16x10 rim; that seams to be the set up I have seen a lot of people use in that class.

I pay mostly intrest on my house right now so I have a large deduction.

The process is the rverse of Hydrogen fuel cell. Place a thine membrain of platinum between O2 and Hydrogen and you get electricity. Well it is close to the reverse, you do ot have and pltinum in your process. Could you use two chargers and place an electrode on both sides of the rusty peice to remove the rust on both sides at once? Can the process be done in a metal bucket?

Well put Will. I am a happy baby sh*t yellow car person.

I was replacing a set of KYB's that I did not like. They came on the car when I bought it with stock springs that had been cut down. Last year I replaced the springs with AZC springs. I am upgrading parts as time goes by for more performance oriented parts. It just happens that spring and my tax return come at the same time.

I was a ZCAR user for a long time. All of the complaints listed before apply here as well. I got sick of the clicky nature of the clientele. I started looking into other sites I had seen while searching on the web which got me here. I have never had a bad experience on this site and thoroughly enjoy the forums. I still use ZCAR be not very much and I go to HYBRIDZ and like it better than ZCAR too. But I spend the most time on this site and for very good reasons. So, for all of you that have made this site enjoyable THANKS.

People that think they are driving when in reality all they are doing is talking on the phone.

Bryan we live in a very secluded world. It is nice to see another person with an eye for the finer things in life.

34 years old.

I fall right on the 40K line but if I count my live in date we make about 60K together. It is amazing how far that does not go. She gets pissed every year about now. This is when I start getting the Z ready for spring and have to spend money. I Just bought a set of Illumina's and will be buying a new set of slicks soon too. It's just money though.

I have a 13.5 LBS flywheel and have never had a problem with it on the street. I do not believe in lightening the stock flywheel, other will say it is fine. IMO if you want a light flywheel buy a light weight one do not try and make your own. If you go too light the car will not be streetable at all. The stage III cam is probably the limit for street driving. I would go for the stage II, you will not have to shift nearly as much, your HP and torque will come on at lower rpms. My flywheel does not really make that much differenct in acceleration off the line or make up in lowend power loss. I got the light flywheel for the feel and ability to rev the engine quickly to match the engine/trans for down shifting. The light flywheel is not realy necessary but I love mine and will allways use it.

I have used a large screw driver to pry the tranny back from the engine, be gentile though. once it started to go back I used my hands from there. Did you unbolt the rear trans support from the unibody?

The rear end of the differential will sit farther back than the stock set up on the older 240's (like mine 1-71). You will have to change the rear suspension cross member that the control arm mounts to (the tail of the car end). It resides under the mustache bar. The ones in the early 240's are straight, you need the curved one from a later 240-280z. The Zbarn sells them for $25. That is where I got mine. I am not familiar with the trany you have but I put an 83 ZX 5 speed in my car and used a shifter that is bent back to clear the trans tunnel. The other option is to cut the tunnel so the stock 5 speed shifter clears. I am going to do the tunnel cutting in the future because the odd shaped shifter feels wierd and the inner shift boot gets in the way. Your stock drive shaft might not fit, I do not know because I am unclear about the tranny. I used a later 240-280 drive shaft (non 2+2).

Loosen the nut at the top of the strut. It is on the top of the strut assembly, you get to it from inside the car. Take off the the strut tower cover and it is the nut in the middle, LOOSEN IT DO NOT REMOVE IT, IT HOLDS THE SPRING UNDER PRESSURE. Jack the car up, put it on stands and remove the wheel. Disconnect the sway bar and put a jack under the suspension to keep it from falling down when you take off the strut retaining nuts. remove the strut retaining nuts on the top of the strut tower (inside the car, three nuts in a triangle), lower the jack and the hole assembly should come down far enough to pull the strut out from under the car (it will take some muscle) YOU DO NOT HAVE TO REMOVE THE SPINDEL PIN CONNECTING THE LOWER ARM TO THE STRUT ASSEMBLY. Be careful of the brake lines. Use a spring compressor to compress the springs (get a good compressor, the job can be dangerous with a crapy one). When the spring is compressed enough to turn side to side then you can take off the strut nut at the top then remove the upper spring perch. Take off the spring and carefully remove the compressor. at the top of the strut tube is the nut that holds in the strut. Remove it and pull the strut. This can be a pain if they have been in for a long time. Reverse the process with the new springs and struts. If you put in stiffer lowering springs you will not need the compressor in the future, if not compress the spring to reasslemble. I have the Arizona Zcar heavy duty springs, when the car is jacked up the springe are loose, this makes life much easier. If any one notices things I have left out please include them. If you take you time and be careful the job is not hard but is time consumming.

At a glance the VR conversions look real but then the shape and rake of the windshield look wrong. If I was going to buy a replica car, Ferrari would not be on the list. I would go for an AC Cobra with an all aluminum v8 and IRS.

Replica Ferraries with a Ferrari like sound dubbed over. That is the standard way of doing thing in movies when the car is too expansive to use the real thing. The California spiders are $1 million+ cars. Other movies have dubbed sound too, like Cannonball run. The Lambos and ferraries sounded awesome in that movie, mabey too good. I would love to have my car sound that way. I might copy your setup some day. I have the flowmaster now along with all the other z's in town. I would like to sound different from them but good too. A set of tripples, big cam and high compression sound great too, part of the reason older Ferrries sound so good. There is a guy with a F355 that autoxes accasionally. His car his very stock and is not very impressive to listen to, sounds like a Honda. Smae guy has a 240 with tripples and a bigger cam, when it gets above 5500 or so it really starts to sound good.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=98315&highlight=bump+steer There are some good ligment tips here. Go with the set up that worked best for you in the past and stay with it for a season. Work on yourself not the car it already has all you need for BSP. If your mental state before a race is about your car being set up wrong you will drive it wrong. I do not mean to sound pompus but the right frame of mind will get you farther than the set up. You migh do these thing already, but here it goes. Walk the course 2 times by your self looking back a lot, then discuss it with the people that always do well. Mentally picture yourself in the car on the course. Picture your car on the course from the outside too. When you are in line to race clear your mind and clam yourself through breathing (like meditation, in through the nose and out through the mouth), picture the race in your mind and nothing else. Do not try to win just try and have your times improve on every run. If you have a bad run don't get pissed just know you are going to do better in the future and you will. Do not think about the cars set up and do not compare your car to other peoples. Cars go fast around the course because of the driver more than the car. Some of the best racers in the world started with underdog cars but still won race after race because they are gifted racers. When your mind is in tune you will start winning races. Then tweak your car. This all sounds pompus but it is avice that was given to me and it works great for me so I am passing it to you.

Well as you can see I became a member in December of `04. I have had Zcars in my head for a log time now. I took a ride in a friends Z in 1988. I lived in Memphis TN at the time (great pavement there). I had just gotten out of high school (Memphis Central) and was going to Memphis State University now named University of Memphis. I was very impressed by the car. It was a `71 240 with a lot of the usual mods to the engine and suspension. The car was extremely clean inside and out. I had no money at the time so therefore I had no Zcar either. I moved to Montana in 1990 and a few years later bought a Saab 900. I started playing in a band who's drummer owned an import repair shop. He had pictures on the wall of him autocrossing his 914. That go me started autocrossing. I modified my 900 to fit into Street Prepared. I raced it four 3 years untill I parked the car on the street infront of my office. I was in the feild when my boss came to me and said "we need to talk." Turn out my car was hit and shoved into another car thus totaling my car. Durring my years as an autocrosser I watched and rode in an E mod Zcar. This car is extremely fast. I regained the Zcar in the head affliction I had in `88. After the saab got wrecked the only logical solution to my car needs was to buiy a Zcar and a beater truck which is exactly what I did. I have an early `71 in the original 920 gold color. The inside has a custome plaid theme. The head liner, seat inserts and door inserts are covered in a funky 70's plaid. The same plaid many of us had for our first coutch. The interior is in great shape as is the exterior of the car. I have it set up as an F prepared car but I have retained the interior so I can drive it on the street in comfort. I would like to get ZG flares and 16x9 wheels but I am not sure on the brand yet. You can see my car at http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/635410. About me. I am an Arborist (tree surgen) for the City of Missoula Montana. I have been a guitarist for 22 years and play Jazz (dinner gigs and big band stuff), fusion (more fun than Jazz standards), blues,rock,country and anything that presents a challenge for me. I could give up all else in life except music. I am 34 years old. I plan to go to the SCCA Nationals in a few years to learn from the "big guys." It shoud be a great learning experience. This year I came in first in F prepared for the Big Sky Region 38. I also won my class at "top Gun" an event where all the autocross club in Montana compete against each other. Our region won the overall title too. Well that is it. thanks Christopher Gray

My car had water in the same place. The leak was from the front windshield. water would sit in the lower corner and slowly start to come through the seal to the other side. Once the water made its way through, the leak would get faster. if it was raining and the car was moving the hole time the leak was not bad because the wind would not allow the water to pool in the corner, but if it sat in the rain there would be quite a bit of water. I spent a lot of time trying to find the leak. It apeared to be from the door because the water would run from the windshield behind the dash and the interior peices over to the door and down between the door and the body to the trim peice on the door seal to the floor of the car. If you opened the door you could see the trail of the water but there was not an entry place around the door where the water came in. I was washing the car and ran the wash mit over the windshield and slightly disturbed the weather sripping and saw the water dissapear into the stripping then I found the path way. Unfortunatly there are a lot of places where water gets into these older cars making it hard to find the source of the leak.

Very nice wheels. The torque sounds right for a 12 mm stud (65-70). 30 pounds is fine for daily driving. The tires have a good wet tread pattern but the tread wear rating is 400 so they are by no means high performance tires. They should last a long time though with a wear rating that high (40-50,000 miles) IMO panasports look great on your car. when you change tires in the future go to a 225/50 for more performance with a lower wear reating.