Ivan

there are some dissussions of dodge 440's in hybridZ.org

http://195.92.224.73/j20/content/mainhost.asp

$4000 is way off that guy must be dreaming Take a look at this forum on hybridZ.org: http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewforum.php?f=15&sid=1af609629954ab5ccc06272f01491743

From what other US people have said they arn't that common but I have seen some links and email addresses in some posts about these engines for the Us so have a search on RB and see what you can find just that a manual skyline gearbox will be just as hard to find as a skyline engine and it will cost you more than it could if you can find an importer

that's pretty quick, there was a 240z with an RB26DETT pulling 8.6's 1/4 miles over here last year

my rb25det was originally an auto as well, you'll need the manual gearbox cover plate (I think that is what it is called) and the manual flywheel (and of corse an R33 / R32 gearbox + clutch kit) $1500 is about average for one of these engines, see if you can find a dealer / wreaker that sells these as they will throw in a manual gearbox with it, or ask this place if they can supply a manual gearbox.

yep, the only other thing to add to that is DOHC. mainly used in Skylines There are a few in this family, RB20 (T or N/A), RB25 (T or N/A), RB26 twin T and RB30 (T or N/A) These engines are capable (if you have the $ and the insanity) of high hp, I have seen many RB26DETT (out of the Skyline GTR) produce 1000+hp the best I have seen was 1350hp

panel + paint then new break / clutch / fuel lines then it's engine time

sorry

$1.10NZD ish for 98 (about $0.60USD) was $0.80NZD 2 years ago or so

I have this engine 1/2 in my 240 not a lot of HP? 250hp 298NM running off 7psi

BBALLS: can you post the dimensions and are you happy to send it over here?

sorry, WOF = Warrent of Fitness, every 6 months we need to take our cars to a garage that has a certified WOF certifier working there who goes over the car and check's it's safety / compliance with law. I have removed the engine in preperation for painting but I will take a guesstamate at the height to the crank tonight. From memory the bottom of the sump (which pretty much the bottom of the block + rails) is about 10 - 15mm off the top of the cross member (on the LH side) and the engine is on about 10deg angle. I originally modified, read cut and welded the rb25det sump but it got warped a little and before trying to fix this I found out about the 200zr sump (kind of expensive though - $650NZD all up - including new 200zr oil pickup). - it looks like less capacity but people are using it for RB26DETT's so it must do the trick. This sump has the sump part at the very back of the sump and bolts on to the rb25's and rb20's (was originally used on rb20's), I don't think it was any differnet in height to the original one but my original one might be different to yours. I will measure this tonight and let you know Just off the subject a bit more - apparently the mounts off this car can be used unmodified to mount the engine (if you are happy with it being a little high and forward) companied by the original z gearbox mount and driveshaft off some other car makes a RB conversion straight bolt in. Back to the subject - sjcurtis: does the later 260z have better baffling?

RB25DET, with 200zr oil sump, it is the lowest the engine will go and I might be able to raise the engine a bit but I'm looking for excuses to not, like my brother's camaro is 65mm off the ground and he doesn't seem to have WOF problems.

it's 100mm here as well, is that from it's lowest location? my oil sump is about 20mm - 30mm lower than what would normally be the car's lowest point, if that matters it means it's 20mm heigher than it could be?

Used to avoid fuel feed problems, especially during hard cornering The surge tank stores a small amount of fuel for a high pressure pump to pick up. If flow from the main tank is interrupted for any reason there is still fuel in the surge tank. Fuel is piped to it by either a stock engine driven mechanical pump or a low pressure electric pump. Don't know why it's important other than the engine cutting out in cornering, maybe it screws with the ECU if this happens?

don't know much on the inner workings of the 240z fuel tanks but it sounds like a good idea if it works. How safe is that, I mean whats the chances of hitting something that knocks that line, especially if it's lowered? Are there any '75 or '76 280Z's in Australia? they have built in surge tanks and fit straight in 240's. Another idea is a fuel cell, bit expensive though.

Is this as opposed to getting a surge tank?

$135 Australian? also what are the dimensions?

240's did over this way

Will they agree on a quote from an insurance evaluator? - when I had my 300 insured they said it was only worth about $7000 so I got it evaluated (evaluator said $12000) and they accepted that.

22yo 65% no claims (never claimed ever), thanks That Ozzy Guy, Ben, for the insurance co names

isn't that what was used in the old GTR's (like '71's or so)

Thinking about coming over next year with my Z, what do you think my chances are of getting insurance for an RB powered Z?

the '75 and '76 fuel tanks have surge tanks built in as well