AxtellZ

OMG, all this innuendo and puns...driving ..me..nuts..

You say you're going to be in Largo for a week? I sure hope you plan to visit Carl Beck, king of the www.zhome.com site! Send him an email i think its beck@becksystems.com ,but check zhome to be sure. Carl will entertain you with his 7 Z cars for a whole day! I stopped in last year when i was down there, as have several of our local club members...Highly recommend it if you have ANY spare time! Zya, Jeremiah

Do you have a Haynes manual? I think its in there. The FSM is also a worthwhile investment! try the directions from zhome for now: http://www.zhome.com/Care/Valvlash.htm HTH

well, this subject has been discussed ad nauseum (no pun intended) on the mail list in the past, and i think theres info at zhome too. 1) the further out the exhaust tip ends, the better. 2) seal every little crack around the back panel- taillights etc, etc. Remove the panel inside & check for leakiness. 3) some people say having the windows cracked a bit equalizes pressure, so less fumes are sucked into the car. All of this is from 9 years of reading others problems, i have yet to mess with my cars, 'cause its not ALL that bad (unless u ask my wife!) HTH, JeremiahLOL

yep. my hagerty is $89 a year. $8000 agreed value. they prefer 3000 miles, but don't enforce a yearly mileage limit. May also try www.grundy.com They're very similar- i went with Hagerty because so many other "Z people" have! JA

My 260 i bought in August has new Firestone F-570 195/70/14's on the same size rim. Looks stock, and seem to be a really decent tire, FWIW. Haven't been on the track, but hold nicley for "spirited" driving so far. HTH,

so Eob, what's the fix? Is it in Mike's hands, or up to each of us? Thanks for the info anyway. JA

Hi all, i emailed wajones & reported this to him/her, since Mike seems MIA. here is my email & his response: Apparently the site must be using the vbPortal xp theme, there are 3 places in the P_themeheader template that have the following path looking for images at phpPortals "http://www.phpportals.com/forums/XP/pixel.gif" please replace that with "$bburl/XP/pixel.gif" or the path on your server. -----Original Message----- Hi, don't know you, but your name is associating with an error at the www.240z.org website. Every member is now prompted to enter a "network passowrd" for site phpportals, realm is "wajones" Maybe you have some idea what has happened? Thanks, Jeremiah Axtell Now, his answer means absolutely NOTHING to me, but maybe you folks know computers better than I. FWIW, Jeremiah

well, the chatroom is "phpmychat",so i'm guessing that may have something to do with it. Mike, HELP!:tapemouth

www.zcarparts.com no online ordering, but you can request a catalog. May be quicker just to call. HTH

i have installed SU's on both my 73 & 74. Neither had a spot on the heat shield to attatch the springs to. I just drilled & stuck in 2 sheet metal screws into the shield, and attatched the springs. A thing to remember- find the springs you're going to use first, so you have an approximate length- THEN drill a spot to attatch them (ask me how i know:rolleyes: ) It really is a simple job. HTH, Jeremiah

That's a nice looking Z! Good luck with it, Have fun (like i need to tell you that). Aren't you the guy who sold the Z to help the folks? If so, this must be the "good karma"- Zya, JA:)

My 74 came with splitfires- they work fine, but as i say, theycame in it from the PO. My 73 I use NGK's, and they're everybit as good as the splits, IMO. I had used Champion & Autolites in the 73 before, but they seemed to foul more than they should. Jeremiah

Does it shake at any other times, or only when applying the brakes? If only under braking, then i would guess the rotors of the front brakes are a bit warped. Can replace, or if in decent shape, have them "turned". If it shakes on & off otherwise, its most likely worn out bushings up front, tie rod ends, etc etc. HTH, Jeremiah

Yep, that's about what i've figured...One of my "projects" is to disconnect, clean, tighten and reconnect all the electrical contact points. Someday, when work lightens up:)

I'd think bad part or bad connection in the coil or ballast resistor area. When it dies, does the car run with the key in the "start" postion, then die again? (BR) May just be a corroded or loose connection somewhere- i'd try checking all the connections, starting at the battery. Good luck, Jeremiah

Hi all, Well, after flushing the radiator and all, the car seems fine. No sign of headgasket failure i feared when my coolant was bubbly/foamy. However, driving to work today, the temp gauge stayed right at 180 most of the time, but on occasion would "sway" from 150 or 160 back to 180. Doesn't jump around, but does move considerably (maybe 1/4"?). I assume the thermostat is opening & "colder" coolant then flows through causing lower temps. But then the oil pressure gauge kinda sways around too. Mostly at 60psi, but does move around more than ever before. So, am i just being paranoid & noticing more because my eyes are glued to the gauges, or should i chase down the electrical demons (i did have the fuel gauge & clock this winter- maybe loose connections?) Any hints? Thanks! Jeremiah

okay, its raining here, but i push on! Yes nasty coolant. Used Mac's radiator flush, flushed coolant system twice. Very ugly cruddy results. Pretty clean now though. Car idled for most of an hour. Tstat never really went past 180. Top of radiator is quite warm, but the bottom is really cool. (at least after 15 mins of idling). Plain water in the system idling with rad/cap off appears boil/foam just a bit once its hot. Gauge in car was at 180, gauge in radiator opening reads 172. I refilled with 50/50 antifreeze/water, ran it in the garage- everything appears fine, gauge reads 180, no leaks etc. But the lower rad hose is still cool, as well as the lower radiator. Heat is fine. heater hoses, etc all fine. I'm thinking its just doing its job, hot coolant at the top, cool at the bottom. Oh yeah all plugs are tan like they should be. I do plan to compression check the cylinders and pressure test the cooling system to ease my mind. I thought i may have had a plug somewhere, or a bad water pump, but all appears normal (for now). Anyone care to give an educated guess? Thanks to everyone here! Jeremiah:D

Quick update. went to flush radiator & replace cap to rule out any questions. Car ran 20 minutes, with heat on. Stayed right on 180F, ran great, and no leaks. Shut it off, pulled the rad cap, and had more of a vacuum suck, as opposed to pressure release. Started looking for leaks etc, and found all the water passages were hot, EXCEPT the lower radiator hose. Warm in places (ends), but mainly cold..Pulled the hose, it has a spring liner , but is not plugged. Water pump not pumping?? Plugged upstream? Any ideas? Thanks all. Jeremiah ps- the coolant stinks like a dead fish, and was really foamy, like the trough at the football stadium. Any clue here? Thanks JA

well, its not leaking between head/block at all. I was all over with my flashlight, and can find absolutely no indication of a leak, past or present. The only indicator has been the frothy appearance with the rad cap off. Hopefully Saturday i can bend someone's arm & get the pressures tested. Assuming it is a pinhole pushing air through on compression, would a block sealer be a temporary fix so i can drive it to a shop (everything will be 20 miles plus..) I don't want to jimmy-rig it, but prevent any further damage. Thanks everyone, glad i'm here. JA

Hey- you know where i live....wife just "allocated" me $600 to pick up a 73 for parts or a racecar. Coulda been yours Keith! Thanks for the help:) JA

Now thats not what i wanted to hear Keith! Guess i'll take it to a shop since i don't have the tools yet. If'n i do need to change the head gasket, and was to pay someone to do it, any guesstimate as to cost or hourage? Fortunately i live in farm country where work is relatively cheap! Thanks, JA

Hi all, this may get a bit rambly, but its Spring in NY (finally) and Z-fever is in full bloom! Got out my 74 1/2 260, SU carbs-N36 intakes Thursday. In the fall, i had a coolant leak (very slight). The car has 2 coolant lines which run through the intakes, the line that went through the old carbs has been blocked off. I would notice the sickening sweet smell of hot antifreeze- seemed to weep from one of the front water hoses that go into the manifold, then ran along and dripped onto the exhaust manifold and/or exhaust pipe. So, i got both water pipes from Courtesy, drove the car a bit, and it doesn't leak that i can find now! I changed the oil, it was perfect, no coolant at all. Radiator has no oil slick or anything- but if i let her run and warm up with the radiator cap off- it does have a "foam" like small air bubbles are mixing into the coolant somewhere... I have not done a compression test, as i don't own the tester (yet), but i wonder if this is a sign of imminent head gasket failure, or if anyone has an opinion. The car is running really well, but i won't drive it if i have a failure waiting to happen:( But there is the first car show of the season here on Sunday, so i'd like to go! Any and all comments, suggestions, or questions welcomed- Thanks everyone! JA

Sounds like a heck of an idea...my wife bought me a set of clear covers from MSA years ago, i never installed 'em (was waiting for new paint..) Now that i have the yellow 74, maybe i'll just steal your plan & put 'em on. Where would i find these fasteners? Thankzzz! JA

I haven't done any business in about 6 years, but http://www.impactparts.com/ used to have good prices on aero kits, spoilers etc. They may have the light covers too. Also, Keith aka 2MZ, what exactly are "Dzuz" fasteners?? Is that some Woodstock jargon or what?! Zya, JA