AxtellZ

Damn! Sorry to hear that Mike- though it makes me feel better about giving up the chance at that "free" car... I have only heard of the rebuilts- what is it- ATK, or something like that? Seems i've heard only good things about them, at any rate. On the upside, it looks like a nice wifey-driver, and even putting a rebuilt engine in, its not costing THAT much.. More than either of us would like, but... Good luck, and thanks for the update, Jeremiah

Hi Jay- May not going to see alot of response because this has been discussed here alot. Try doing a search for carb posts & read up. As a rule, most of us (okay, I..) prefer the 70 to 72 SU carbs. Very good for a stock car, EASY and plentiful. You can find webers, mikunis, DellOrto's etc and get into triples if you want, but its pricey, a major pain to tune, and there is little gain without other mods (cam/porting, etc, etc) HTH, Jeremiah

In my experience, yep- at least a bit of "chirp". No smoky burn-outs in 2nd, unless you're really into abuse:( Gets expensive when you thrash 'em! Seems to me that the Z's are built to drive/handle/be beautiful...if you're into tire chirps between shifts, sure...if you want to lay down serious rubber..Upgrade;) HTH

It's been mentioned that Nissan has ceased production of body parts. We all know there are fiberglass panels available, but for anyone who doesn't know, Charlie Osborne has just started selling the rear panels at www.datsunzparts.com Looks to be a quality sheetmetal product. My 73 has damage beneath the rear bumper (PO drove like an idiot), so i will most likely use one of his panels. I'll let the list know how it works when the time comes. Thumbs up to Charlie for keeping the dream alive:) Jeremiah

Just bustin' em. Hope you're not offended. Zya;)

Damn Keith, sounds pretty funny to hear that from you!! Now maybe if Mike posted that....

Sounds about right, 2MZ. Try a quote from www.shox.com that was about the cheapest i found last spring. Maybe www.nopionline.com too Good luck!

don't have an answer for you, but did you use alta vista's "babelfish" web translator? Might help a bit. Good luck. JA

Hi everyone. Been busy with "honey-do's", but finally got out to the Z. Started checking stuff out, and found a wire from the rear of the alternator ( that one lower & near the passenger side framerail) was basically half there- the bullet connector was barely connecting/arcing. No wonder my gauges would wander, and ignition was halfhearted. I semi-attatched the wire- don't have a connector on hand, and the car seems to run well. However, my Right turn signal doesn't blink (left does) Maybe fried the blinker? Does each side have its own? Any guesses out there? Hopefully i can look in the daylight tomorrow, if it ever warms up again.. Thanks all:) JA

Thanks everyone. Ended up working today, but did pull the float covers. All seems well, i think i'll chase filters tomorrow.

if its while running, i'd lean even more towards the master-vac, or one of the vacuum lines, since thats only when your creating vacuum. if it were just hydraulic in nature, it should be the same running or not..HTH

I'd guess master-vac too. Can you pop the hood & listen, or have a helper do so, so that you can pinpoint where the sound comes from?

You mean the grose-jet or assembly it replaces, correct? Seems a year ago when i cleaned the carbs up, one of them did act a little goofy/sticky or something (they are the original style, NOT grose-jets). That would explain why it feels like half the motor is working certainly. I can remove the float bowl cover with the carbs mounted without a problem right? (i've always done my tinkering when they were on the shop bench previously) Thanks for the tip- sometimes my mind gets numb when i'm aggravated! anyone know the going rate for grose-jets, and is ztherapy the only place to sell 'em lately? ThankZ!

Hi all, my 74 260 with SU's has been bogged down :-( Saturday when i turned off the choke a couple miles from work, lost all acceleration/power. Stopped & whacked the rear float bowl (the top was damp) and it ran fine the 26 miles home. Its rained the last 3 days (car stayed inside), this morning i brought out the Z, got about 3 miles and "here we go again". So i pull over, whack the bowls again, and take off, but still crappy power. Don't notice it at low speeds, but in 3rd & 4th gear at 3000-3500rpm, it acts like only half the engine is powering. I also noticed my amp meter jumped to +30, where it is normally just to the right of center? So i figure i'll check floats, fuel filters, ignition...can anyone suggest where to start first? I really hate to replace entire systems just because i didn't check one item first! Any and all suggestions welcome. Thanks everyone. Jeremiah Axtell 73/240 74/260 both w/Su's

IIRC= if i remember correctly AIR= as i recall HTH= hope that helps etc,etc

Have you talked to a rep at MSA? About a year ago, i was in the market for suspension. They told me that tho lowering springs dropped the Z 1 to 1 &1/2 inches- the 28 year old springs were already sagging that much, more than likely... Don't know how accurate that is.. I bought OEM and KYB and urethane. I'm quite happy with it, and the car does sit a bit higher, but i doubt its an inch and a half. Bad news is OEM springs went up about 40% from last spring:( HTH, Jeremiah

which bulb/s are you after? IIRC, my 73 has about 6 mini-bulbs in the dash. 1 in each gauge, and a few behind the heater panel etc. Depends which you're after, it may be easier to remove parts for access. If you didn't know, the lights have a single (power) wire to them, the fixture is a metal spring which clicks in place to hold its position and provide a ground. so you can pull the lamp assembly out, change the bulb, then pop it back into place. My hands sure aren't small, and i've done it, though it may have been when i fixed the heat controls, so access is easier! HTH

i don't recall, as those type of features have been disconected on my 73 & 74. IIRC, its just a buzzer, but its been awhile. Don't worry about it, unless you *like* minor nuisances in your life!

:D I like.

yep, its possible, but probably just as easy and more effective to swap a whole assembly from a xz turbo. check out www.hybridz.org zya, JA

i've been told you can remove the sending unit and simply bend the wire arm thats inside the tank to "adjust the reading". Haven't tried it, but supposedly you just unscrew the big knurled nut where the sender is mounted in the side of the tank towards the front of the car, and pull it out. Of course you'll want very liitle gas in it at the time:rolleyes: HTH.

quite easy (relatively) so i hear. i may one day put a 350 sbc in my 73, but it'll be awhile:( you really should go ask at www.hybridz.org you'll find everything about the swaps there. good luck, JA

If you need a turbo manifold, my tenant*may* still have one from the 81ZXT he just dismantled- send him an email to disco_rod@hotmail.com or get back to me & i can check with him. Zya, JA

I gotta agree the 2+2 isn't the sleekest look, but then again, a toyz a toy, isn't it? I damn near got a "free" 2+2 280, but 3000 miles separated us, so its Moderator Mikes nightmare now...i wonder if he ever got the fuel pump to work? At any rate, have fun with it, ugly or not! JA:)

I'd think 1500 is fine, depending on how good/bad the floors & rails are. Nothing like "hands-on" vs a picture. Maybe you can try an awl or screwdriver & see if the rust is only on the channels beneath the floor pans, or all over. If it is only the channels, Charlie sells those separately at www.datsunzparts.com Quite a bit less $ than floors complete. Good luck- looks decent in the pics! JA ps- did you check the battery tray/ spare tire well also?