AxtellZ

*hint- if you go use that "DONATE" button first, Mike will be extremely helpful i'm sure! ROFL Just kiddin' there Mikey.. Jeremiah

Yeah, follow the directions & it is pretty straightforward. I still advise getting a copy of the www.ztherapy.com SU carb video though. Definately worth the $15, i thought.. The only trouble i have had is if you've got vacuum leaks, worn bushings, etc- then they keep "untuning" HTH!

St. Stephen- you'll appreciate my plan for a vanity license plate: GR8FLZED to put on my Z. Something there for Jerry & Pigpen, as well as the "Zed" types downunder.. as far as my handle: "ax" for axtell, "rph" for registered pharmacist. I use my email address because its unique, and i can remember it at all the different sites and addresses- try to keep life simple. I would create some cool name, but then i'd end up forgetting it...:stupid:

Another option (assuming there is electrcity available) is to use an angle grinder- "flatten" 2 opposite sides with the grinder, then use an open end wrench of the appropriate size (and probably a length of pipe over the wrench for leverage). I suppose if you had plenty of time you could cut 'em in two with the grinderROFL , HTH Jeremiah ps i have a set of 4 with the key if any one likes their nuts locked..

Is this a daily driver, or other? I have heard of a few people riding around with 6 of the 7 bolts due to the same thing, with no problem whatsoever. Then again, i'm not sure which bolt they had broken, or if it makes a difference? If it were me, i think i would leave it & torque the remainder down correctly. And DO apply some antiseize when you re-install ANYTHING on your Z! Just keep a close eye on it if you take my advise! HTH, Jeremiah

sounds like you should already have what you want. send a pic if you want, but just go to www.ztherapy.com to learn about "roundtop" SU carbs. The video is worth every penny. Learn to tune what you have, they're plenty till you really change your block/cam etc (even then, they are quite good, IMO) good luck, Jeremiah

In 1993, i bought my 73 for $999, still a work in progress. Just over a year ago i bought my 74 for $4500 (ouch). I was about to have the body/paint done on my 73, but a z club member fell ill & needed cash quick.. the car is done, he had just spent 5200 on paint & bodywork:classic: So now i save up for the 73 to get some work again:cry:

Depends what you're after: street driving, racing, autocrossing?? My 73 i did last year with poly bushings, OEM Nissan springs, and KYB nonadjustable strut cartridges. I love it for street driving, though if i was doing it again, I would opt for Eibach progressive springs instead. The OEM springs have almost doubled in price in the last 18 months! I assume the adjustable cartridges would be preferable, at least for race/autocross, but i can't justify the extra cost for a street ride (KYB was 34.00 each i think) HTH, Jeremiah www.shox.com www.suspension.com www.nopionline.com plus MSA, VB, etc..

A while back, i was tempted to swap the fuel/volt guage from a 280 into my 260.. Pete Paraska offered the following: "Yes, the volt gage. You can just hook the plus side of the volt gage to a key-on circuit and the other wire of the gage to ground to have that working. If you want the idiot light to work, you'd have to run two wires back to the dash to work it. Basically, you want to wire the idiot light in series with the field connection on the alternator." Don't know that this info helps at all, but its all i could come up with at the moment! I'm not sure if the idiot light would indicate over or under-charging, or what. What does the gauge read? HTH, Jeremiah

I forgot to ask- i need the little filter to attach to the valve cover, since i pulled the original style filter.. Does anyone have a source or part #, either K&N, or otherwise?

Victoria British sells replacement foam filters for the Weiand/ramflow type, for around $6each. I use a light oil, just put on a rubber glove, pour some on & squish it around like the sponge that it is..pretty low-tech. As far as the foam decomposing- yep it does. I have an old Yamaha 80cc scooter for zipping around the village- last month a chunk of foam broke loose & sucked into the carb:cry: . That shut it down very quickly! The good news is that carb cleaner dissolved it real quick, guess i should have changed that filter in the last 7 years:stupid: :stupid: ! (The Z's get MUCH better care)

Congrats, Keith! glad you found a pair & picked them up...must be easier to convince the kid (dog, for those that don't know), than to convince the wife. "Gee Honey, i'm gonna spend 500 bucks on taillights for the Z, here, why don't you just keep my left testicle in your pocket for a while.."ROFL zya, Jeremiah

i found a set of these on ebay last night- search for: triumph su carb* I think the set was only about $28 US! Might be worth a try if you need carbs on a budget. zya all.

99% right Keith!, they saved the fuel injection for the 280 in 1975 i believe. My 10/74 260 with the big fat ole bumpers had the flat-top Hitatchi carbs (until I bought it, that is...) Zya, Jeremiah

Excellent advise.. just use the search function here to find hundreds of threads to find most of your answers- when you don't find an answer, just ask. The only thing i ask is you don't call anything before 1978 a "ZX" Makes me cringeROFL Jeremiah -> see if the 74 has original carbs- if so junk 'em (when you look at them, if they look like a 1 pound coffee can shape, they're original)

I saw some full kits on Ebay for around $150, i believe the seller was this guy: http://zdatsun.com/suspension.html At his website i think he lists it for $169. I bought the parts individually from www.zbarn.com last year for my 73, price was less i think, but i didn't do the rear. I paid a local mechanic to install the poly, as well as all 4 springs & strut cartridges- maybe a couple other oddball things- his labor was $300. Well worth it to me not to bust my arse & curse alot! If i was broke, i guess i'd do it myself though.. Jeremiah

i had a dim left lamp on my 73- i spent 4 hours getting the bloody screws out the change the bulb and chase the wiring...in the end, it was an *almost* burnt fuse (under the endcap where it wasn't apparent):stupid: Do try to clean tighten at the fuse block, and simpler yet, swap the fuses to see if the problem moves.. My 4 hour education was a 3 minute fix- go figure!:tapemouth

yeah, that would be cool. i was searching old posts at zdriver and zcar.com, and noticed a banner ad that one of them offered it! Hey Mike- need another project??:classic:

On 240's you go through the glove comp, but late 260 and 280's, you unscrew 4 screws that hold the center vent assmbly in the dash. then 2 brackets that it attaches to (2 screws each) remove, then pull out the plastic air vent in back (slide the hose on each side off & wiggle it out). then use a short handle screwdriver to unhook the strap that holds the gauge in place. the top of the strap will pivot so you can pull the gauge out, you just have to unplug the wiring- thats it- i've done it five times in eight months in my 260- i am getting mighty quick now!:cross-eye

i got a single cover (MSA) off ebay for $50 a few years ago (i only needed the drivers seat) It's not perfect, but certainly close enough for a driving car- you really have to look to discern the differences, FWIW Jeremiah

Hey Coastguard- was just looking at www.collectorcartraderonline.com and found an early 74 260 in Churchville,NY. asking $3300 i think- looks decent, and only about 40 miles from you! Zya around, check out www.zccr.net & let me know if you wanna drive to one of our meetings in Rochester (1st Thurs each month) Jeremiah

C'mon Keith- there WILL be someone with more $$ than brains, that will need GPS so they don't get lost on the course here at Watkins Glen!! Zya, Jeremiah and yes, i agree with you completely.

First things first. Street racing is not advised nor condoned. If you feel compelled to, DON'T BE AN IDIOT! I too have been known to drive on the edge, but i risk myself and my property only- I make damn sure other people are not in harm's way. Please, please, please- Be careful. If someone were to harm my family driving like an idiot- I'd hunt them down! (steps down from soapbox) That said- basically practice brings quick starts off the line. You probably could benefit from the calculator here: http://www.geocities.com/z_design_studio/ The powerband seems to be 3000 to 5000rpm in my cars, the Z engine will rev to 6000 easily, so i'd guess perhaps you're shifting too soon. You can find shift points at RPM/speed for your drivetrain with the calculator to keep you at max power. Hope that helps! Remember- don't be stupid, we can't afford it! Zya, Jeremiah

Is it an "ignition interlock" override? Seems my 74 and 73 *had* a relay there, it was an emergency switch that allowed the car to be started when the system failed. I believe it had to do with the seatbelt warning light/buzzer, etc, etc. I just tried to reconnect the system inmy 74- suddenly after reconnecting the sensors under the seats, the ignition didn't work. The switch in the engine bay is already gone, so i unhooked 'em again, and now it works fine again. HTH, Jeremiah

i'm working too. Sucks!. You're right, there oughta be a law.. Nice to "meet you in person" though. Zya Jeremiah