Palmer

http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product?storeId=10101&Pr=p_Product.CATENTRY_ID%3A2004158&TID=100&TID=100&productId=2004158&catalogId=10101

I'm at the point where I need to replace the ball joints on my 78. Can anyone recommend a good source where I can buy one of these tools? The shop manual part number is HT7252000. The ones I have seen so far are just the fork type without the bolt to 'help' seperate the ball joint from the transverse link. Or, is the fork type without the bolt just fine? Thanks again.. www.project280z.com

Hey guys. I've updated the web page for the Z I am working on. I still have a long way to go. Ran into a little delay when my sciatic nerve reminded me who's boss when I was removing the right caliper. I still have a few more days of hobbling around like a 90 year old man. Feel free to click on as many ads as you like.... www.project280z.com

annnd...I wonder if Tremclad is available in Black Pearl??? Kinda doubt it.

My question is even if the paint is 'self leveling' how do you not get the paint to run down when you are painting the sides of the car? Unless you are just very careful to apply the minimum amount of paint, sand, paint, sand, paint and the paint thickness builds up...I may have just answered my own question...damn!

I was told or read that the ST are 10 to 15 percent stiffer than stock (1 inch drop, couldn't get away from that) and the Tokico's are more progessive than the KYB's. I opted for the ST springs and KYB-GR2's because that combination seemed to be the best way to go for me. I don't plan on driving the car hard at all so I wanted an as close to original feel with 'something' there if I wanted it.... www.project280z.com

I'll be replacing the old stock brake assemblies on the 78 that I'm working on soon. Does anyone have any opinions/experience with the PowerStop Brake Rotors? I'm looking at the cross drilled type for the front end as a stock replacement. The Vac-U's are a little more than I need. The car will not be driven hard or raced by the way. Also, any info on rear drum brand replacement would be helpful. I'm not interested in doing any conversions. Thanks guys, www.project280z.com

The KYB's will be here today Summit Racing, free UPS 2nd day air! It'll be a while before I can comment on them because the engine will be comming out soon after the new stuff goes on. I also ordered the ST springs and complete Hyperflex bushing kit. I'm replacing the front and rear brake assemblies as well. I don't think the grease under my fingernails will ever go away....

Going with the GR-2's...Try summitracing.com. I think I saw the GR-2's there for $40 each, front and rear. Yes, they have them for the 280 also. I saw the springs for $160 also on another site but can't remember where it was....

OK...Looks like I'm going to go with the KYB gas and Suspension Tech springs. Seems like all replacement springs lower the car no matter what and I believe the ST's are only about 10% stiffer then stock. Next stop..rotor and drum replacements... Guess I'll have to update the website...It needs to be re-worked anyway. That was my first attempt at HTML, pretty sorry I know. www.project280z.com

I just don't see the need for having adjustables because I'll be only driving on the street and don't plan on taking any corners at 60 mph, especially where I live. So, I'm just in the market for a smooth ride. I thought I read somehwere that the KYB non adjusts have a smoother ride than the Tokico's. If I'm wrong, someone please correct me for this type of driving. I'd like to order the springs and struts all at the same time so I'd rather get this right the first time....aye?

I can't find any info on KYB springs so I'm not sure if they make them. Either way, I'm not sure that I want to lower the Z, I may just keep it stock height. In any case, as far as springs go, any thoughts on brands and ride feel?

So, if I'm not looking to autocross, race, drive hard but do want a smoother, stock, glide-like ride, I need to go with the KYB's and not the Tokico's correct? More specifically, the GR2's since there is really no need for the adjustable type. Thanks, Guess I need to change the website.

Thanks Kenny. My next 'step' is to get underneath it and start on the suspension. The engine and tranny may come out some time next month. I'll post an update here since it may be several weeks before anything is changed on the site.

Yes...I will be debating this issue for some time... Patience young Skywalker

From what I've read and have been told..If the paint color is changed from the original it does nothing to the actual value of the car unless everything on the car is mint/original, then repaint it the same color. I'm still not sure which way I want to go with the color. I've got a good year to decide. Silver (a darker one like the new 350Z color) has always been one of my favorites. I've got nothing against Black Pearl. I'm just a little worried about some of the welds showing up with the darker color even though you can't see any of the seams in the primer coat.

I gave myself a crash course in HTML and put my 'project' on the web. It's still a work in progress. I'm surprised that the URL was available.. http://www.project280z.com

Thanks for all the help guys..I've been busy doing some landscaping around the house and I just now got back to the forum. Lot's of info here to go over. You guys are the best.

Once I get the Z back from the welder I'm going to start the paint removal process. I've been told that a DA sander works fine, but, I've never used one. So, if someone could recommend a brand first, I've got mostly Dewalt stuff, that would be helpful. I'm sure they are all pretty much the same. Next, pad sizes, grits or any other suggestions would be much appreciated as usual. I have been told the following though...If you work a particular area too hard you can warp the metal causing waves in the metal. Since the car will be painted black pearl, the darker the paint the more prominant the 'waves' would be. How easy is it to actually put flaws in the metal with a DA sander? I plan on taking things slow because I am in no rush to get this done quick. Any advice is helpful....

I removed the tank from the 78 I'm working on. Any suggestions on what to use to clean out the tank would be helpful. Thanks, Chris

I think there are three clips that hold it on. I'm going to take off the passenger side this weekend. I'm going to spray it with some penetrating fluid and hope to save the clips. I'll let you know where they are under the gaurd. Wish me luck.

They have to come off for the paint man....

Call it what you want but I'm pretty sure it's called the drip gaurd. I removed the driver's side and have yet to remove the passenger side. When I reomved the driver's side I had to work it off from one end to the other by gently rolling it up and down and pulling it out at the same time. There are a few small metal clips that held it on the edge of the roof lip and they broke when I removed the trim. I need to take off the other side but I don't want to break the clips. Are these clips still available to put the trim back on or is there an alternate way to secure the gaurd trim back on. I really don't want to load it up with epoxy or some kind of 'glue' but if that is the only way to go then I guess that'll have to do. :stupid:

Thanks guys...and thank everyone for keeping the Z alive.

The rear bumper filler on the 78 280 that I'm working on is damaged and needs to be removed. I've cut the four support fingers but there seems to be some rivets between the flange of the the filler and the body that are holding it on also. Is that what these are? There is rust back there so I'm just going to cut it off with a Dremel tool. Just want to make sure I'm not missing some small nuts and bolts instead. Also, I need to remove the gas tank to flush it out. There is a small plug, like the oil pan plug, on the left side of the tank, on the bottom. Is this a drain plug or is this holding the float meachanism in place or for something else that I shouldn't mess with. If it's a drain plug please let me know. Thanks, Chris