Palmer

I still haven't heard back from him...There isn't a phone number on the site and there isn't a number included with on of his old emails. If anyone has placed an order with him before and happens to have a phone number on the receipt can you pass that along to me??? Thankz

I still haven't heard back from him...There isn't a phone number on the site and there isn't a number included with on of his old emails. If anyone has placed an order with him before and happens to have a phone number on the receipt can you pass that along to me??? Thankz

Just looked at the spreadsheet...Just poured my first drink...:sick:

:stupid: OK...thanks Jon....but this just brought up another issue...I understand about the bias towards the front brakes and weight transfer, but for those folks that did use the MM rear disc upgrade kit like I plan on doing, and they left the front set-up as stock, then they all have larger rotors and calipers in the rear which is reverse of what it should be, aye? Unless they are using the proportioning valve to transfer more 'brakeage' to the front...I usually don't drink this early, on a Monday, but I may have to start today.:stupid:

Thanks Jim...

Roger that...I'm just at a brain block about what to do as far as upgrading the front brakes. The MM rear disc upgrade pack uses 11.4" rotors. I'd like to use the same size rotor up front so they look the same through the wheels when the car is viewed from the side. Trying to figure out if there is a bracket/rotor combo that would work. I'd use the 240SX calipers with the MM upgrade package in the rear and ? up front. I've been through the majority of posts here and at Hybrid but can't find anything about uising the same size rotors all the way around. Not sure if this is even possible. I know about the Arizona Z car brake upgrade, little too much overkill for me. Soooo, not sure if this is even possible...:stupid:

I sent a few questions to Ross over at MM and haven't heard back from him in several days. Anyone else having trouble getting in touch with him?

Beautiful Z you have there....thanks for the reply....

Just making sure before everyhting goes back in.... The bump stop should be inserted as it is in #2 aye? The diagram is kinda crappy...

Is the ball joint seperator(#27020) the big C clamp? I rented it also but told the guy I was doubtful I could use it, just didn't look right. The computer 'said' it was the right tool. I took it back because it was the wrong tool. I ended up using a pickle fork instead to get the tie rods loose and just tapped out the ball joints....

I've got the steering rod disconnected from the coupler, the fsm said to loosen the bolts but it eventually came out (who knows where the steering wheel will line up, didn't think about that ahead of time, I'll have to eyeball everything before it's all tightened). The engine hasn't been removed yet so I've got to take the lower joint out of the pinion. I just wanted to make sure I could put some kind of force on the pinion to get it free from the joint. I'll stay away from the torch...Happy Easter everyone...

Thanks Lance. It's 'soaking' right now so I'll get to it this weekend. Chris www.project280z.com

Okaaaay so there are no threads on that part of the pinion that is going into the joint that the bolt 'was' holding tight??? Proceeding to spray with penetrating fluid...I'm on my second can with the car!! I'm sure I'll buy another 12oz'er soon.

Heading should be "Removing lower joint from pinion"

People: I'm taking out the steering rack to either replace or just clean up myself. How do you get the lower joint off of the pinion? I have removed the bolt completely from the lower joint and the it has been disconnected from the steering coupler. I've tried to pull it out, kinda hard to get leverage on it from under the car, but I can't separate them. Any thoughts??? 78 280Z

I've pretty much decided that I do want to do the rear disc upgrade. The car won't be raced or autocrsossed but I'd like to have the up-to-date brake set-up back there. I've been through the forums here and on Hybrid Z and it seems like 99% of the subject matter is about the rear disc system. I'll look a little harder for that 1%...

For those of you that upgraded your rear drums to discs using Modern Motorsports's rear disc upgrade package, what did you use up front if you replaced or upgraded the front rotors and calipers? I beleive the rear upgrade kit uses Brembo 11.4" rotors. The stock rotors on the 78 up front are 10.75". I'd like to use the same size rotor up front as in back so everything 'looks' the same through the wheels when looking at the car from the side...Any suggestions? 78 280Z

Hey Alissa..Good looking stuff ya got there. One thing I am finding out with the 78 that I am working on is to work from the inside out. I started on the spring/strut assemblies then brakes and what I have come to find is that I'm going backwards. I should have started with the steering compenents first, then struts/ springs then brakes. Since everything is tied to everything else and the steering is in the middle of it all I would have been better off ordering parts and posting questions concerning the steering first. But either way so far so good. I'm going to remove the steering rack/boots/tie rods etc. clean and replace what is needed, then strut/springs then front brakes. This is just my 2 cents here...Unless you steering 'stuff' is okee dokee. I'm still trying to figure out what I want to do with the front brakes. I am going to go with Modern Motorsports rear disc upgrade kit with the 240sx calipers, but I want the front rotors and calipers to match their kit. That's the part that is making me drink more....This is a great place to ask questions, lot's of good people with good advice. Chris www.project280z.com

I can't wait to get to that point. I'm sure I'll be sending you plenty of questions...Nice job.

Uh, that's loosening the 'nut' not the bolt on top of the ball joint...

OK, just one more and I'll leave you guys alone for a little while. The FSM says to separate the side rod from the knuckle arm by using the ball joint remover tool as described by inserting the bj remover tool between them and tightening the bolt on the tool with a wrench. Ok, cool. So, removing the actual ball joint is done by lossening the bolt on top of the ball joint correct? And, I think I saw a thread saying that this nut is cross threaded. Can't find the exact intrsuctions to remove the actual ball joint. When I went to AutoZone to get a ball joint remover tool loaned to me, you get all of you $$ back when you bring the tool back, they gave me a large c clamp to remove the ball joint. I didn't want to question 'da man' but it just didn't look like I needed it...

Yeah I'm just down the road from you. I thought Shalimar sounded familiar. Tell you what, when all is said and done I'll drive on over so we can zee each other....as long as you are living there for the next uh, hmmm...12 to 18 months. I wish us both good luck with the upcoming hurricane season. Keep in touch. Great looking Z you got there! Chris

Sean...Hot Damn!! I've got the ST Springs with the 1" drop also that I'll be using along with the KYB GR2 non adjustables. Side by side the ST springs are a good 2 inches lower that the stock springs...I was sent the correct springs wasn't I ???

Bought one off JC Whitney for about $20 last week. They informed me after I sent the order that it would be shipped out April 10th. Glad I paid for the expidited shipping @#$!

Hey guys, glad we're back up and here. OK, when I broke down the strut assembly, see picture, I noticed that there was no strut bump stop on top of the old strut rod (under the top of the spring) that is detailed in the shop manual. Do I need to use the bump stops that I bought? If so, I'm guessing I need to pull the open end down the strut bar and around the top of the strut housing, aye? Also, since I'm not refilling the strut cylinder with strut oil do I need to put the o-ring back on the oil seal? I'll probably do it either way. As far as getting the gland packing seal off, I just turned the whole sumbitch upside down in a vise clamped to the gpackring and rotated the assembly. Worked real fine that way it did! 78 280Z