John Coffey

Bad. Have her push the pedal down first before cracking the bleed screw.

A higher compression ration increases cylinder pressure which is the reason internal combustion engines make any power at all. And flywheel weight has nothing to do with horsepower.

You will probably want to back off the timing a bit. You can buy octane booster at any auto parts store around here if needed.

The suspension doesn't care what the spring orientation is.

Spinners can do a tight rolled lip like a wire bead, and any angle flange edge from about 5 degrees through 175 degrees. All depends on the tooling and the spinner's skill.

Don't bother with the oil. Its not needed.

The mounting flange is also spun on the same piece in a second operation. Holes are drilled in a fixture.

I've had a number of air horns spun. Just placed and order for 50 for Solex downdrafts. The spinner can very easily control part thickness and can vary it within a couple thou throughout the part. And there is zero post spinning work required except to trim and drill holes on the mounting flange.

The top of the strut tube is ovaled. Squeezing with a clamp of any kind probably won't help much. You have to work the oval out. Tale a 14mm x 60mm x 1.5P bolt, clamp the bolt head in some big vice grips, put on some thick leather gloves, lay the threads iof the bolt n the threads at the top of the strut tube, and hit the side of the bolt with a hammer. You want to push the bent in part of the strut tube out. Work the bolt around the strut tube and don't try to fix the bend with one smack. If you heat the top of the tube with a torch it makes this easier. And ALWAYS, ALWAYS, put a gland nut in the top of any strut tube. Keep your old ones for just that purpose.

Its not a 4 hour job on a S30. If everything goes well and the tech is diligent and careful in his work it will take 6 hours.

Download the FSM.

Gland nut might be loose causing the shock to move up and down a bit.

The math is in here. Installing Tokico 280Z HP Springs in a 240Z - Brakes, Wheels, Suspension, and Chassis - HybridZ

I actually have some test results from what Electramotive did back in the 1980s with the turbo engines. Got them from Dale Caldwell. The best solution is what they did on their racing engine which was to drill outlets on left side of the head on in 5 places and route those outlets to a manifold and then route that manifold to the radiator. They completely blocked off the heater outlet on the right side of the head. For low power (under 200hp) race engines I run a -4 line from the heater outlet to the bottom of the thermostat housing for three reasons: 1. Air bleed so radiator filling is a bit easier. 2. Duplicate the factory bypass when the thermostat is closed (I also drill two .125" holes in the thermostat if I'm running one in the race engine). 3. Slight increase in coolant flow at the back for the head where it needs it the most. And no I'm not going to publish the test results for the same reason I don't post copies of the 3023 homolgation documents that I have. This stuff cost me money and no one here is paying me. I offer advice and if you want to take it, fine.

A carbon fiber hood and hatch can remove 80 lbs. from the car. That's the biggest bang for your buck body panel weight reduction.

A typical failure with a R200 installed. As mentioned above, a small nick or mark became a stress riser and over time a crack developed. At some point the bar fails while accelerating from a stop in first gear (most torque load). I've seen these a number of times with R200s, never with a R180. Also as mentioned you need to inspect the front diff mount and front diff cross member. Those are most likely damaged.

You're boiling the fuel in the float bowls or you're getting fuel slosh causing a rich condition. Look for vapor or fuel dripping out of your air filters. Between runs open the hood of the car. If you have electric fans, keep them running. If you have the stock fan, keep the engine idling. If you have a water sprayer for your tires, spray the carbs. Install longer float bowl vents. I would also try removing the heat shields mounted directly to the bottom of the carbs. Aluminum is a very effective heat transfer material. Re-route the cabin air intake on the driver's side to blow air between the carbs and the header.

Not really true. Remember, the piston controls where the needle is in the jet. So, if the rise of the needle is delayed while the engine sucks more air (which it can between the piston and the bridge) you can easily get a transient lean condition until the needle get into the thinner part of its taper. If you want to richen the transition run a lighter weigh SU oil. Marvel Mystery Oil is what I've run for decades.

Generally a non-issue but if I was the crew chief and my race driver redlined the car on a cold engine leaving the pits he would get his butt kicked when he got back.

IIRC, even with the heater valve closed it still allows some flow through the heater core.

Remember, the water pump is pushing the water through the system from the block up through the head and out the thermostat. There are internal bypasses for when the thermostat it closed but water is always entering the pump through the two inlets and always trying to exit via the thermostat. Solution number 5 (what I've implemented a few times) is an alternative route to the thermostat when pressure builds up at the back of the head. Its also a good air bleed for when you're filling the cooling system.

Here's the definitive thread on cooling the L6 engine: Head cooling on cylinder #5 - solutions? - L-Series - HybridZ

Every one I've taken apart has been severely corroded, as mentioned above. It could not be salvaged/reassembled in a fashion that I thought would be reliable. You would have to build something from scratch or source a less corroded tube and fittings. Living in CA I don't bother replacing them and just run a AN -4 bypass line from the outlet at the back of the head to the inlet on the bottom of the thermostat housing.

I'm on the lookout for Anton Chigurh. I see him, I run.