Daniel

Thanks for the photos and insight 2mz's.Its a hard decision.Do you let a car decide where you live? I have turned every bolt on that car.The other thing is that I can polish it and thats all.Nothing left to tinker or repair.Kinda like building a model when its done,its done.I want another project car but dont have the space.I know the odds are slim that I would ever find like mine and I would rather give it a good home than let the salt air eat away the fruits of my labor.Perhaps if I had a ballpark figure of the value that would influence my decision.What do you guys think?

When you turn the key to the on position do you hear the ACC. relay on the passenger door wall click?It may be stuck on.Are your gauges still on when the car is off?Put a test light between the battery neg cable and bat.neg.It will glow bright when the battery is draining.Unplug relays and or pull fuses to find the one that turns the light off.

I meant the CARDBOARD liner Victor.You know I would never cut a dash!!!We know removing it will destroy it.If it works great,if not than the first step in the trashing process has begun.Victor ,You should know my style better than that by now.:classic: Myself I use the clock as a time to change the oil.If the odo reads say 3000 Iset the clock to 6:00.When the numbers match,it time also no battery drain as my car spends most of the time under its cover.

I'm thinking that if you cut the dash liner on the clock side on three sides between the angles.That would create a flap to access the clock.When finished use some black duct tape to seal the flap or use silicone.A piece of black cardboard could easily be cut to fit between the angles and that would allow future access for bad bulbs and such.Be creative.

Well after a wonderful trip to munich the wife and I are thinking about moving to the coast.The problem is I have too many cars not to mention I couldn't stand the thought of exposing my 240 to a life in the salt air.So heres what I have.1973 240z.Has always been garaged.72 carbs,ceramic coated headers,euro dist.Stainless brake lines,tank has been pro.coated.new fuel tank to engine lines(I bought the last one in the US according to datsun).No rust.Interior is perfect except for a couple of dash cracks that a dash mat hides.Paint is perfect.Eveything under the hood is polished.If it wouldn't shine it is painted.How do you price something like that?I think there are photos under 2manyz's name.You could get in the car right now and drive it anywhere.Kyb gas struts, all datsun ujoints ,all bushing are plastic,Oh yeah and the rare DATSUN 2400 valve cover on a ATK reman.280 engine.Intake has been ported and polished,Aluminum flywheel,3 row radiator.

Yes,check the patent office website for your product.Next if all is well find a patent attorney.That'll be about $5000.00 fro them to do the same search.One you have a patent applied for you can show a company and have then sign a nondisclose aggrement.It's a costly and time consuming thing.Good luck.Oh yeah,A friend got one for a woodworking tool.Later he see's it a magazine for sell.He calls the attorney.The attorney wants to get them---for a fee.I don't think the patent ever made him a dime.Most say make the product and flood the market before the masses can copy it.

The datsun fix for that was to put the car on a lift,use alot of extentions to get to and unscrew the two screws that hold the latch to the hood.

Electric tips, AC like house wiring will switch BEFORE the device it is controlling.DC as a car,will switch AFTER the device.If before it will shorten the life of the switch.Notice your points are on the neg.side of your coil ?Your horn button goes to ground.etc.So does your door switch etc,etc..I seem to remember replacing the door switch and found the same thing.Either will work the light.Just Tape off or cut the other.I wired mine to a passenger side floor light(junk yard tag light) I installed.

240zDragon,if The car starts but dies when you release the key to the ON position it is either a ballast resistor bad or wiring/switch issue.You can wire across the resistor for a test.One wire fromthe ignition cranks the car.When released it runs thru another wire that runs the power thru the ballast resistor to drop voltage and extend the coil life.You can also run straight form the battery pos. to the coil pos. as a test.

Those smart cars make a golf cart look roomy! Believe it or not they are made by mercedes benz! I understand the box looking one is 5 pieces that are assembled.Another crazy thing here is they tag and street legal those honda type 4 wheelers.Isaw a guy blasting thru traffic on one that had slicks on it.Oh ,in answer to Alfa's question.Yes I have photos.My son is an engineer for bmw here ,thats how I get the advance on the cars.They also have a new rolls royce,bmw is making the entire car now.It makes a 7 series look like a 3 series. more later.

I've been here about two weeks.All kinds of small little cars.They have one called the smart car.It can pull into a parking space either straight or SIDEWAYS.I am in the middle of down town.There must be a muffler rule as all the cars are quiet.Even the diesel construction equipment purr's.The autobahn is very well behaved.right lane for slow/left for fast.We took a bmw 6 series that is to be released in the next couple of years.At 225 kmh it just floats.It is a diesel but you never know it. No clack and torque that will throw you back in the seat.Also there is no oil path down the center of the highways.Except for a few old citroyens and austin minis there are no old cars.Fromwhat I understand they made emmission taxes that killed all the old cars.More later.Oh,a friends wife is a lawyer and can't find a job.....Is this a great place or what!!!

Overflow drain for your carb.

The thermo would have to open to refill the block that was drained when the head was removed.Adding more coolant would be my first thought(50/50 mix) .Is the coolant all new?How did you check the thermostat?

My concern was losing both lights at say 60mph on a dark mountain road.

for fluid I use what datsun suggested.I think dot3.Yes the silicon is supposed to be less water absorbent but ,I have a friend that has 35 fine classic/antique cars.He did the silicone thing.About a year later he went back.I don't recall why but there was an issue with the silicone.I'l l find out why

I like Victor's workplan of being non intrusiveI also alway try to be able to put humpty dumpty back together again. A quick glance at the diagram I see danger.Now both headlights depend on one fuse to hold the relays latched.When it goes you are in the dark.You also share one fuse on the headlight side. If a headlight pops due to age or a stone thrown from the road you will be in the dark. DANGER. I see more bad than good.There is a better and safer way That I will post when I have more time.

I cant say for sure on 260's but on a 240 that problem is caused by a bad connector on the white wire where the vr attaches.If you jumper around it the problem goes away.If not repaired your battery can explode.

While not a efi man.Dozier's test is really easy.If you put a fuel pressure tester in the fuel line it will either hold pressure or leak down.If it holds you're better than you thought.If it leaks then the elimation begins.

I've had luck with a couple of tricks.Insert a small flat blade screwdriver into the gap left in the wrench and try to crack it loose or use a stack of feeler gauges as a filler.Just a thought.

I learned a great lesson yesterday.My old chevy46 truck has a '54 235 straight 6.Being a low compression,1 barrel carb,I never really thought much about the power or lack of.Sure I put in plugs,points the normal things.Its not real quick.It always cranks right up acts cold by poping and such underlaod until warm,doesn't rev very quick.Yesterday I decided it was time to adjust the valves.DAMN!!The cold nature is gone,it has more power than it ever has.If you told me the motor had been rebuilt I would have believed you.I've always known that the correct valve setting was important but,I had no idea until yesterday.What a great surprise!!So often overlooked yet such a critical power maker!!

I haven't had to fight the vent battle but perhaps this will help.There is a product called plasti-dip.It is a can that you can dip tools into to get that plastic/rubber type grip.Its great stuff. The can show how to thin it so you can paint it.I have used it on various old sunbaked plastics.It's like encasing it rubber.I'msure you could also attach your hose with it.One tip .it comes with a snap lid.Put a piece of aluminum foil on the can then the lid.It will then keep for a couple of years.Most all car places and hardware carry it.

Also make sure the chokes are indeed turning fully on/off and the needle seats are pulling back to the correct flush position on the carb bottom.Maybe your new carb settings would like a small timing change.

Anyone with an interest in this ,I would suggest Rich Dad,Poor Dad by Robert Kiyosaki.It is the first in a series.It is a powerful easy read for those that what to get ahead.The second item is the ceo money.Someone(s) had to approve that outragous amount!!!Hell,I'd take it too.As for the stock option thing.Thats the company giving him the right should he want, to buy the stock.The day the stock went on the market they made their money.After that its just paper to them..They cost the company near nothing.The worth of that paper is only perception and that can change fast.I am saddened at the Enron type stories in the news each day.The people that get hit are the stockholders If the options have value and that same someone(s) OK's the change to make sure they ALWAYS DO!(Them!! Again!!) an increased supply of his stock sales usually causes a drop in price only if the option is excersized and he sells..Think about that as you have money removed from your check to buy that paper. Like vegas,Everyone can't be a winner.Think Smart!! Or as I Kwi Chow Cain once said---In life you must paddle your own canoe --Grasshopper! Use that library that someone that played the game different built for you to find your answers.I bet those ceos and someone(s) make money when the market goes down as well as up.Wonder how they do that?

It s sounds like a ground issue.If it was a positive short it would burn fast and loud like hitting the jumper cable ends together.If you go from battery neg to the motor you should have 0 volts.Then check to frame /battery and then motor/frame.The hose was acting as a wire.My guess is that a meter placed between the connections where the stainless lived will read 12v

Use the rubber boot that goes on a coil wire.You may have to trim it some but it'll work.That area is where it binds/rust.Make sure it moves freely.Make sure the linkage is reinstalled correctly by turning it on without the arms attached.I learned that as my arms shot across my newly painted hood:stupid: