Daniel

My first choice is socket. They have springs in them that hold the contact against the bulb.They get tired or rusted.Sometimes stretching them will work. Use a test light to begin with and see if there is power.

Common problem, Your switch is burned out. Easy fix.There are threads with photos and part numbers for 240z

I dont think the 240 head has the provisions to accept the injector.No screw mount holes for injectors and the notch in the intake port for them.Compare a 240 gasket to a 280 and you'll see.

NO,your linkage is upside down.Remove the cowl.Remove the nut that holds the linkage to the motor.Rotate the linkage to the correct location.I think its 180 degrees. You'll see the problem.Test and watch it close BEFORE you secure the wiper arms or the blades can take off across the hood. Been there!:stupid:

One mounting suggestion would be go to your local boat center.They have plastic enclosures for the batterys.I would secure it by a seatbelt type strap that was anchored to the car.Justa thought.

I'm not doing any.I'm just thinking outloud.Seems alot of post asking about removal. Just thinking about a possible new trick.

A post a while back said that he waited until the weather got cold and hit the floor pans lightly with a hammer to crack the floor tar. He said it was easy. Made me wonder.If you put dry ice in the floor and let it sit awhile???HMMMMM No fire, no chemicals......hmmmm Just a theory.Someone let me know!

All of a sudden I'm sounding like grandad.--In the day when cassettes were hip,the tricks were this.The front speakers could either be mounted under the dash in a cardboard box or carpet tube.We would cover the box with duct tape maybe add foam and cut the opening for the speaker.Those interior clips that accept screws held the speaker in .You could mount them under the dash and crush to fit if needed.They mounted above the floor vent cables.Those side panels offer NO room.We used 2x4's to frame the rear behind the shock towers.Taper toward the tower on each side. That was then covered with the same thin fiber board as the spare cover.That cavity gave rear speaker room and a mount for boosters and you had a spare tire.No one ever noticed there was a slope.Best thing is all was removable when I out grew that desire.

Good Fix Jeff!! Yeah the sealer is a temporary fix. It will fail when you don't have time for the problem. Did you use a header gasket?Those are thicker and a lot more "forgiving". Great find!!

Problem #4 causes problem #1. The car is sucking cold air.Thats the reason for the missing heater tube .The first thing to heat is the exhaust manifold. You want to supply that heat to your carbs.As for the rear defroster.Any time this is mentioned I think of the old movie "gumball rally".The guy ripped off the rear view mirror and said--The first rule of race car driving,Whats behind me doesn't matterROFL .Real world is the repair method Carl so excellently detailed is the best short of window replacement.Problem is you must remove the window or the hatch to get a flat work surface.As a rule I do not fight Mr. Gravity with chemicals above my face.I have seen the box type 12v lighter plug blower heaters in car mags.Perhaps that type non-intrusive seasonal fix my resolve your problem.I can't draw a straight line with a pencil much less liquid metal.I would see my errors every time I looked in the rear view mirror.Also a previous post determined a new window had a 30 minute warm time before any results were seen. Makes ya' go HMMMM huh?

Yes the deinstall may have seemed to fixed the old thermo. but, hot water test under no pressure is not absolute. The thermo opens and closes alot during normal operation.It doesn't just open and thats it until the car is cold again.Its job is to maintain a constant temp. The absolute test is to replace it. You did and it is now absolutley fixed. Absolute good job!!:classic:

I just remembered.There is a vent on the top of the rearend.It surely took in water.Its the plastic part that has a cap that just doesn't quite get tight in the center of the rear end.Like keith said Change all the fluids fast.

I also doubt you did much if any damage.As for the water on the inside I have friends that run a detail shop.They remove the carpets and pressure wash them then lay them on a table made of a fence gate to dry.I've seen them do entire cloth bench seats the same way.Your car died when the exhaust when under.Had a friend in highschool that did that .Car would not start.Tried everything.Turns out the cold water dunk collasped the hot exhaust pipe in one area.Unhooked the pipe for a test and RMMMM! Hey at least it wasn't salt water!!

Odds are it is the plastics are worn BUT, through the years I have had that problem be a worn shift knob! If I remove it from the shifter the noise is gone. its like the metal insert comes loose from the wood and increases the volume. Easy enough to test. You should also order the three rubber pieces that seal the tranny from the inside of the car. Yours is no doubt rotten and it will help keep out exhaust this winter.

Sounds like you're on the right path.The biggest gotcha is bolts on the thermo housing snap !!Especially the one closest to the block.I would suggest first very gently tighten that bolt just a fraction.Then loosen a little.Continue this tighten a little,loosen a little. What that does is lets the threads cut and clear themselves.The tightning clears the build up on the threads that accumulates from continualy going in one direction.Apply teflon tape or such for easy future removal. DON"T FORCE IT OR YOU"LL SNAP IT!! Take your time. Oh yeah its common to get air in the system that causes the car to get hot when you think there is enough coolant. Carry some with you .

Go to the location that the neg battery attaches to the car.Remove it and witha wire brush or such rub that area good.We are now aasuming that the battery post are tight.When checking th alt belt you want it snug but not too tight.One rule of thumb is you want to be able to press on the fan blade looking things on the alt and with force be able to move it.Over tight will bind the bearing and cause premature failure.The charging system can be checked on the car one you get it running.Myself,I dont like to waste time removing parts without reason.

Maybe low tranny lube.

That whinning may be the wife in the passenger seat. !!!!

Lance,good discussion.I'm going to try and get some documented info. today.I'll pm it so we dont take this thread.As for your washer wiring concept.The black is hot,the white is return sometimes called neutral,the green is the ground.Ground is the wire you discribed. See the three wires coming into your house.Two coated(120v each)one bare.That bare is not only a return but if it is cut or broken it will send 240 volts thru EVERY receptacle in your house.The transfomer needs that return. Thats just an FYI. oh yeah I happened to think of the simplest example.A common flashlight. It switches on the low side as you refer. After the lamp/load.

Lance, Boy I'm glad someone went whaaa...You are indeed correct on your switching ..if source was standard AC or DC. Cars are different.I presented your same viewpoint once upon a time to a ex- navy sub engineer and a current 25 year gm certified tech.I lost. Agreed the potiental for 12v is there ,but you will not be the path to the neg or the battery.Its not like your house.Check you wiring diag. you will see the brake does have the common ground you refer to but the switch goes to ground.As far Ohms law .The theory is correct again.The reality is not.In the electrical code you are allowed and is common what is called a "reduced neutral".If I run say 3 #10's (30a each) I can use one #10 as a return.Thats why if your house has a 200amp meter you have two 2/0 hots and one 1/0 return or neutral as it is called.Sorry to rattle quick but these post timeout so fast. I enjoy the discussion. Daniel

Good idea with having the relay in series with the main lights.The most correct way would be to have the load of the relay on the neg.side.Fuse the pos.Let me explain better.The way the relay is triggered is fine.The part of the relay that the lights run thru should be on the neg. That will extend the life of those contacts.Allow me to make you go hmmmmm.The brake light switch on the car switches to ground. The horn goes to ground. The points are on the - ground side of the coil. The door switches switch to ground.The fuel,temp and oil pressure switch to ground.The load is between the pos. and the device.The stress is less on the other(neg side)of the device.HMMM-huh?

Look at the excellent photo on the post called--indicator switch and the note I added. You will wish to check this also as the trouble may not be the headlight switch or That area could be the next problem.--While your there.......

The power source is the same(battery)wherever you hook them up.Odds are you see the same thing when your turn signals flash or you normal head lights on.The battery doesn't know or care.The voltage reg.senses that the battery requires a charge and allows the alt. to provide that charge.Once again they don't know or care where the load is,it just knows it needs to provide provide power to maintain the proper level the volt reg. wants before it shuts off the path to the alt. Think about if you move a lamp to a different receptacle in your house.It doesn't change the meter as the power source is still the same. I'm Curious,Did you install the relay on the pos. or neg. side?

What is warrens phone#? Thanks.Also those things just done slip out. I'm thinking if you shove a needle under the fiber on the bottom across the slots and clip off the extra (left and right sides).Then put some silicone to hold it in place that would give great support and take the stress off the old fiber feet.

Excellent photo indeed!!Notice at the bottom of the photo that long white connector.Thats the hi/low beam. 4 pieces of the fiber board "feet' go in those slots. notice the right side is brown(foot is there) see on the left the shiny contact(foot lock missing). It's not long for a burn out.That contact should be above that slot.You may increase the life by trying some jb or such to hold it back in place.Or better yet I think that rivet at the top is hollow.Make a base to fit the white housing bottom and maybe twist of wire or small tieWrap.Look good fellas,This is the number one headlight killer.If your isn't broken I would fill it with something as those feet are brittle.