Daniel

As per usual I agree with 2mz's.I think the return post are an issue.Perhaps you didn't put the wheel back on like it came off.When you drive straight down the road is the steering wheel position correct?Do the signals turn off correctly?You could jack the front end to help test.That would save your arms and tires .I'm sure your neighbors would be glad you weren't honking around the block all day!! Of course some would say-Showoff gets that new toy and rides around wanting everyones attention! Daniel

Hey Jim, The foil insulation has a gotcha.It keeps heat out until it gets in.Then it acts like a blanket in july and holds the heat IN.The shield between the exhaust/intake is the answer. Daniel

I think it's to compensate for your hinny in the drivers seat. Daniel

From the center of the drum out to the wheel studs is made up of one metal plate.It rust/bonds to the drum.I would squirt liquid wrench into those areas and let it soak a while.Put a 2x4 against the back edge of the drum and hit that with a REAL hammer.I put a couple of nuts on loose so that the drum can't come flying off (don't you wish!).After you tap and soak awhile it'll come off. Have Fun!! Daniel

Don't feel bad that gets everyone.I did just like you when I was a puppy.It's part of learning.The pump has an bad internal bearing/seal.That is allowing coolant to leak past.A new pump is required.On the bright side you are a lot faster at the task now!!Since the cooling system will be drained you may think about new radiator hoses and thermostat.Summer's coming.Put your old hoses under your spare tire for emergency.Remember new coolant with a 50/50 water mix.You can leave the cap on but loose so you can remove it to add when the thermo opens.----In the future, please think of this experience when you consider a "slightly used part".Used part cost +labor+new part+labor again=cost more than just buying new part to begin with.I know you supplied the labor but your time has value.Another part of learning.We've all done it. Have fun!! Daniel---At least it wasn't a used heater core!!!!!!ugly!!

You must have the early carb type 260. No the electric is not manditory.The mech. type will work fine.The mech. type is not manditory either!You can use electric!Confusing isn't it!You can use one the other or both.Although if either is bad,I don't think fuel would pass through it so it would need to be removed/replaced.Those supplement pumps did supply enough psi didn't they guys? Daniel

I think guy must have had an encylopedia for lunch!! (just kidding guy).He is correct. The carbs on the Z are on top of the exhaust.On hot days when at idle that heat boils the fuel in the carb bowls.Just like boiling water this causes the air in the fuel to expand.Now instead of liquid fuel for your carbs to atomize it has gas vapor.Kinda like when they pump the bottom of the keg at your favorite pub.Beer vapor. Have fun!! Daniel -Oh yeah, the best description I have heard is your car starts bucking like a bronco as the engine gets fuel then vapor then fuel.

From months of viewing the post of new Z owners I have an observation I wish to discuss.I read,bought Z therapy carbs,ordered headers,want more power,need it faster.I never read what I feel is the first manditory repair.I want to STOP!!These cars are old.The rubber brake lines probably haven't been replaced.If they have when?Guys we dream,look.and save for the day we get our Z.In a moment it could all be gone.The rear wheel cylinders are bad about leaking,brake fluid sucks up moisture=rust in the lines.You know how the more you blow up a balloon the weaker it gets?Guess what your rubber lines are doing?.The cost of making sure you will stop is small when you consider at a minimum you'll be on ebay looking for a front end.I won't even discuss the other possibilities.Just because they work today don't develop a false trust.Get new parts and enjoy your Z for years to come! Stay safe friends. Daniel

The 240 came from the factory with the mech.pump.In an attempt to resolve vapor lock problems,the dealers (at the factory request)installed electric pumps in series with the mech.As far as a performance enhancement,I doubt you'd notice.Help it start better? No.I would suggest getting a fresh base to start from.I would replace all the basics.Spark plugs and wires,dist cap,points,rotor,condensor,air filter etc.The fuel filter needs replacing also.Some cars had a rear filter near the fuel tank as well as the front one.Make sure they all get replaced.By getting this fresh start you know what you have.Follow your haynes manual and pull out the distributor.Check the position of the pointer on the Advance/retard mark before removal.The Z is so sweet from american cars. The dist. will only go back in the correct way!It's foolproof!Check/clean the connectors in the dist.They oxidize with age=bad connection.I recommend the NGK factory spark plugs.I think their BPR 11es.Check that number.Change wires/sparks one at a time so you don't get mixed up.When all is done,the only remaining items are getting the valves adjusted and head bolts torque checked and timing check.Those item would be for your local shop.Then its carb cleaning time! Have fun!! Daniel

The mystery/vaccum hole is the correct 73 choke cable hole.I don't recall seeing the rubber boots on the carb end of the cable.I would think they would act as a return spring when compressed and also take up space and shorten your travel.. Daniel

Welcome to the world of Z cars!!It looks like you have a great starter car.Your clutch problem puzzles me.I have had a worn clutch slip when accelerating in 3rd,but I'm never had one studder in 3rd.First gear, yes.Anyway,when the time for replacement comes may I recommend replacing clutch,pressure plate,release bearing, rear main seal and transmission seals.I also suggest using factory parts.I believe you get a discount as a member of this site.Factory will get you years of satisfaction.You may have to order them in advance.The clutch parts are obvious.The reason I recommend rear mainseal and trans. seals is it will never get any easier with the tranny removed.Also there is a rubber seal under the stick shift.I bet yours is rotten/torn.And lastly I think the 260 has the plastic pieces in the shifter like the 240 if so,get those also.I believe in do it right and move on to something else.I do not believe in paying a mechanic to reinstall worn parts or calling me saying"that inner tranny seal leaks"It'll take three days to get it.We're at a stand still" Have Fun!! Daniel

Bad dog, Just an FYI.Myself when I use the choke handle.I put my finger under the "head" of the knob and pull back on the neck.That has the metal arm in it and is stronger.You can't buy those choke knobs anymore. Have fun!! Daniel

I think the pump is bad and leaking out the weep hole on the bottom of the pump.I've never seen the gasket go bad,of course it could happen.Careful running just water,antifreeze has a lube in it for the pump.Tighten the bolts in an X pattern a little at the time.If you tighten one down all the way then the next you could warp the pump.Tighen evenly and gradually.The coolant would spit out of the overflow under the rad. cap.The fan would spray it all over. Daniel

I had enough of the part that broke off of the console to JB it back in place.I have known people to jb a block of hardwood under the console to screw into.Sounds like you have some carb issues.The choke movement should equal the lever.You can't have any choke on under normal conditions as that will make you run to rich.Maybe you need to cut off some of the cable housing to give more travel?I have a 73 with 72 carbs.No problem. Daniel

Did you try to reuse the old gasket with that used pump?That won't work.Also when you remove the water pump,it drains the block of coolant.You can refill the radiator but,when your car reaches normal temp the thermostat will open and take all the coolant from the rad. If you don't add more you will overheat.That will cause your car to spit out the coolant appearing as a big leak.I would not advise " sanding" those parts.Use a gasket scraper.You don't want to remove any metal when cleaning the area as sandpaper would.It can also cut tiny grooves into the surface causing a poor seal.Timberwolf is correct.Get a new factory pump and it will last for years.The fan belt should be tightened to where you can push hard on the alternator cooling fins and it will move.Overtight will cause alt. and waterpump bearings to wear prematurely. Have Fun !! Daniel

My 73 has the cable in the same position as timberwolf's.I hate you used the screw thru console method to repair the mount. JB weld works great for that repair.Your choke(s)may be sticking.Try moving them by hand without the cables attached.Then try your control wthout the carbs.They should move very easy.I can move mine with my little finger!!If your cable is hard to slide,cut a piece of drinking straw about 4 inches long and duct tape it over the carb end of the cable.Add a few drops of oil or wd40.hang it from your hood latch with a coathanger or such.Gravity will do the rest.With the choke lever fully forward(off) and the chokes fully off on the carbs.Tighten down your cable screws on the carbs.If the chokes are sticking you may lift the piston in the carbs and blast carb cleaner.That MAY help. Daniel

I have found a pair of needle nose slipped under the linkage works great for popping them loose.The wedge of the tool will slip it right off.You may also check your throttle return springs,they get tired/stretched. Daniel

HI mark,Seems like you have quite the project going on.That's great!!Go to this homepage and pick link#4 datsun z garage.Then performance tips.It has all the answers to questions you haven't even though of yet!! Have fun!! Daniel

The load the A/C puts on the car is very little when it is off.When its on the compressor clutch engages and creates the load.If it works I'd leave it.I removed one when I was a teenager.I soon found that dating in a hot car/stuck in traffic or having to attend an event that required a suit was bad.I went on a job interview in the summer and arrived sweating like a whore in church.I didn't get it.If it's your only car I'd leave it,but thats just my 2 cents.I shake better than I drip! Have fun Daniel

There are some possibilities that come to mind.The first is your starter bendix .The soleniod is just a low ampere switch that switches on the high amp starter cables.You were correct in checking that.When the starter "fires up"the bendix (the part with the small gear)is thrown into the flywheel gear which turns the motor over.It should retract when the key is moved from the start position.Either your bendix is bad,something in the starter is stopping it from retracting, or the teeth on the flywheel are worn and binding the bendix so it can't retract..Removing the wire from the starter does turn it off,but by then your car's engine is running and it is spinning the starter.Thats my guess. Have fun!! daniel

IN the rear lift by the rear end housing.In the front lift by the big frame looking thing that crosses left to right.Mine has a steel plate welded at about center.If you use your factory jack, postition it at the little notch that is behind the front wheel.and infront of the rear wheel at the bottom of the rocker panel.You should be concerned. The death of many a Z was because someone lifted it by the floor pans. That is where the rust demon would enter due to scratches and tears. Have Fun!! Daniel

I think its called a window squeegy.The inner brush piece is stapled to the door panel.After cutting the monster staples,I used holes they left in the panel as a pilot hole and used small screws.Make sure they are small enough to disappear into the brush so they won't scratch the window.Also I put a piece of tape along the edge metal edge of the brush strip to act as a reference guide before I removed it. Daniel

Get yourself some rust killer.NAPA has it .They call it EXTEND.It looks like milk going on.It changes the chemical composition of the rust.It drys black.On extreme rust it drys a deep purple.You can paint over or leave it.It will never rust there again. Have fun!! Daniel

Good morning Guy, may I suggest you look at the Z garage, link #4 on this homepage.Then look under rebuild and scroll down to cooling.I believe you'll find this of interest. Daniel

Sounds like your points/condensor are not working therefore not allowing your coil to saturate.Check point grounds in distributor also.My grandfather would say don't leave that switch in that position you'll burn the points up(I wanted radio).It never happened to me but,maybe you found that exact position needed to damage them. Have fun!! Daniel