Daniel

Hi Walter, Glad to hear you got the hatch open.The throttle opener was suppose to act as a dampener when you let off the gas.They were to stop the carbs from reducing the fuel amount too fast.Although they were on all 73,s.I think I read somewhere that they were really intended for autotransmission cars.Regardless trash it.You will never miss it. Have fun!! Daniel

The dremel tool doesn't have enough power and the path it cuts leaves small trails.Kinda like washing your windshield with a Q- tip.I mounted my 3/4 drill in a vise and had a 6" buffing wheel in it .Using the metal polish that looks like red wax I worked on it about 4 hours.I then said enough and went to a shop that does chrome work.Can you make this shine better than this I asked?The man said Hell yeah! He hit that valve cover on about a 15 h.p. buffer with A 12" wheel that was about 4" wide.In 10 minutes it was as good as chrome.I had wasted 4 hours.Cost $10.00.Every now and then I rub it with some "mothers" brand wadding.It looks like dirty cotton.It removes the oxidation.Once it is polished it will stay that way.No need to clear it with anything.The Intake and carbs will shine also.One great thing about it is polishing removes all the little roughness.It doesn't collect dirt like it used to and it is easy to wipe clean. Keith you have seen my valve cover.It was done 10years ago!!! Never used anything on it. Have fun!!! Daniel

Could be on a timer that ran X amount of time after switch off.Kinda like the headlights on my jeep.2mz's are you trying to play with electricity again???Careful!!!

Does it turn on when you start the car or is it temp switched?

The short version of how to know your wiper linkage is 180 degrees off is when you turn them on they shoot across your newly painted hood instead of your windshield.At that point you lose color in your cheeks(all four of them!!!) You newby's that have this most excellent site at your disposal should really give thanks to Mike this season.The headache removal he provides you is a wonderful gift!!!! Have fun!! Daniel

You have two choices.The first is that your voltage reg. is bad.The second(which I believe correct )is that the white wire that is in the molex(white with alot of wires) connector that your voltage reg. attaches to is not passing current thru that connector.That is the wire that tells your volt reg. to shut off.You can test across the connector.If bad just wire around it.DO NOT DRIVE THAT CAR!! Until it is corrected! Your battery is overcharging and at best it is destroying your battery.At worst the battery will explode throwing acid everywhere.The alternator always makes electricity once it is up to proper RPM.The voltage regulator decides if the battery needs it or not.Headlites getting bright on RPM increase is a common Z thing.Worry when that doesn't happen.The reason you only get 12v at 800rpm is your alt.really isn't working.People think that when you spin an alt. by hand and its so easy that its always like that.The truth is it is like a clutch on a go-cart or chain saw.The electric field it creates when up to speed is VERY strong.Therefore the resistance is Very strong as well. Have Fun Daniel

I noticed that while throwing parts at your temp issue you said fan but not fan clutch.Are you using one? If so did you test it?Also I have a stock exhaust manifold available if you're interested. Daniel

The story goes something like the head of datsun's favorite play was"My fair lady" thus that name.They thought the U.S. would think the name sissy so they needed another name for here.The story goes the factory work order number for the car was 240Z.The rest is history.

Been there' Ruined that!! Once upon a time I wrapped my header tubes with a blanket type stuff also. Same results. Seems keeping that heat in is not good.Mine was done in an effort to stop vapor lock.As best as I can recall it worked ---except for that one small drawback---holes blown out of the header!!! Oh yeah in case you're following my footsteps-you can't sandblast headers either. Have fun!! Daniel

I must be missing something.I would expect the brake pedal to get become harder when the e-brake was pulled.How does the fact that it does mean you have worn shoes?2mz's post reads if it gets pedal gets harder you need shoes.huh?? Daniel

2mz's could you please explain the logic of step #2 "trick" so my little brain can understand it? Thanks Daniel

EScanlon is indeed correct about the rewiring from factory.Some things may appear incorrect but believe me those guys at datsun have forgotten more than we will ever know about wiring a car.Also by doing your own thing it makes the standard wiring diagram invalid.Therefore lots of trouble to track down problems in the future.The battery issue with lights on is correct.The alt. doesn't even kick at that low idle rpm.Your turn signal could be a bad bulb.Unless they all work,it won't flash.I think checking the combo switch and turn signal switch is a great idea.The fan motor is easy enough to test.Check for voltage at the fan,if yes,take it out and see if it will spin by hand.If yes apply 12v from an external source like a battery charger and see if it moves.As for your brake lights,checking the switch is easy.Look at the brake pedal arm and you'll see it.Its just a momentary contact switch.Check across it with your continuity meter once you've unhooked it from the circuit.Odds are its good.The brake lights also run thru the combo switch.Check the factory wiring diagram to see that.HMMMM There is something to being standard huh????Sorry,I had to say that:cry: Daniel

Are you putting the parts in a 240 with carbs?If so save that short linkage piece that connects your throttle at the firewall to the linkage on the motor.Let me know if thats your intent.I have a trick to share.Ever notice how when someone trys to easily apply the gas on a 240,especially when cornering,its like they floored it?We can fix that with that piece. Daniel

its been my experience that the horn doesn't work at all or works too good(all the time)with most hub kits.

I put my money on hose/valve.Usually a core will leak on both sides since it sits on the tranny hump.I would suggest getting a valve and factory preform hoses and replace as a unit.Once one goes the others aren't far behind.Trying to use other than factory hoses will get you nothing but grief.Even if it is the core thats leaking.Replace the hoses/valve and you won't have to mess with for years.The coolant in your floor will eat/destroy carpet/clothes/paint anything it touches.Pull your floor drain plugs and wash it out.When removing the hose from the core,cut it off,don't twist it or else you may create a new problem.The valve is held in by 2 screws.I found if you get a long screw (of course the same thread)and cut the head off.Screw the "good"end into the rear mount hole.Now you can use that as a pivot to swing the new valve around to find the front hole.Of course that then becomes the pivot to find the rear now that the screw is removed . Havefun!!! Daniel

Your post reads that you put your meter on the battery and the starter and it read 12.6v. If you had one end on the battery pos.,the other on the starter pos.,you should have 0 volts or else a bad wire/connection on the pos..The same with the neg.Battery neg to car ground should be 0 .If you get any voltage then it is the car ground at the car needs scraping to make good contact or the neg wire. The point is if the path is good it won't pass thru your meter. If you get a reading ,your meter has become the path.Touch both meter leads to the pos. terminal,no reading huh? No difference if you touch each end of a good wire.A bad wire is the same as not there.Therefore you get a reading when measuring voltage across its length.

In the connector that attaches the voltage reg. to the wiring harness there is a white wire.When that connection fails or become poor/intermit it causes your system to overcharge.Make sure you have continuity thru that connector.Also I would suggest replacement of the volt reg rather than the adjustment route.I say this because I have never been successful at that.You can do alot of damage if not correct. Havefun!! Daniel

In the days when the 240's were new.The dealers would put the car on the lift and use alot of extentions and come up from the bottom to remove the #10 bolts on the latch.I prefer that method.Removing hinge bolts=realignment and possible damage to fenders or something.Once you have access you can add a piece of wire as a temp pull until your is replaced.It will pull from the outside. Have fun!! Daniel

I'm not sure you have a problem at all.The amp gauge should bounce a little but,just because it isn't bouncing doesn't mean trouble.Putting a load on the battery by turning on lights,heater fan or turnsignals should make it dance toward positive.Does yours ever go neg?The new alt. could just be giving new readings.Why do you think you have a problem?

Bill is correct.The heater control valve is first check point.Also make sure the vent/heat flap is closing.If the heat is not getting hot, but is luke warm your thermostat is probably stuck open.

I think yes.I saw one at a show once.Of course you have to use 260 interior arm rest and such.Sorry I can't be absolute.I would find it hard to believe that datsun retooled the assembly line for a door panel.

I used to run 160 in summer 180 in winter.I then found out my car loves the 180 all the time.2mz's is correct you could have air in the system.Also I have had bad new thermo's.Changing the pump will drain the block.When the thermo opens you must add more coolant because the block refills .If you didn't have to add something is wrong.I assume you did use new coolant 50/50 mix.Oh yeah,My needle is normal on the right down leg of the "M"in TEMP on the gauge face.A "Z" trick.When you replaced the rad. hoses with your pump, put the old hoses under your spare tire.That way you'll NEVER need them!!

I saw this bumper sticker the other day.It reads-YES this is my truck NO I won't help you move!

The 240 glove box liner was made of fiber board(paper).You must fold and crush to get them in.I have a friend that put a 80's maxima(plastic)liner in his 240.They were made to fold.If you didn't know(odds are most don't) It looks nice and gives you the workability of future in and out . Have fun!! Daniel

Errrr---AHHHHH--The milk was MINE!!:stupid: Daniel