Daniel

There are those that say marvel mystery oil is ATF. No more mystery huh?

Might as well replace the plastic pieces in the shifter.If you haven't done it, don't worry it 's as easy as putting the lid on tupperware.Now your tranny top is great for years.

Since the seat is already out of the car I would see what an Auto upholsery shop would charge.If the kit is $50.00 plus shipping plus your headache to install.My bet is theman with the experence and the tools could make your day. Daniel

Derk,You will want to cut the hose from the heater core.If you try to twist it loose you can break the heater core.That is when uglyfest begins!! Daniel

yeap,heater control valve.Might as well replace those two hoses while your in there.Use factory preform hoses.Anything else just causes grief.While your coolant is drained might aswell replace the radiator hoses,maybe even thermostat as well.Put the old rad. hoses under your spare tire and you will never need one again.It's the parts you dont have that leave you on the roadside!!:stupid: That coolant will eat any carpet or clothes it touches. Daniel

Nigel your question reminded me of a time long ago.I had another 73 240 then.It had the normal rust under the battery box but,appeared OK.On a very cold winter rainy night I was coming home about 2 in the morning.I ran thru a low spot in the pavement that had collected quite a pool of water.I was going about 45mph.All of a sudden the passenger floormat blasted toward the back of the car.A wall of water with the size and pressure of a firemans hose shot thru the to the ceiling of the car for about 3 seconds.I WAS SOAKED to the bone.Needless to say repairs were in order!! Daniel

Nigel, I once had that same thought.In begining my resto. I had only one hole in the passenger floor.It was about large enough to pass a golf ball thru it.Just a little patch job I thought as the underside of the car showed no trouble.AS I cleared away the rubber to get to good metal to weld the patch the rust area grew.Soon I could pass a basketball thru the hole.I think the rubber was holding the rust together and stopping the floorpans from falling out.Two new floorpans later,I'm glad I did it.I think you will be also.There is no better time then now.Who knows years from now the pans may not be available should you require them.You need to know the status under the rubber. Have fun.Daniel

One more check point.The connector that goes into the alt. Find a flat connector the same size as the one built into the alt.Plug that into the wiring harness connector and ensure it make a good connection.The female ends on those thing spread and appear to connect although they just float.I have seen some that the male connector just slides between the molex and the female instead of into it. That my friend will cause hours of intermit headaches. Daniel

The test I recommended was to verify the path thru the connector from the wiring harness to the volt reg.In the white wire example I used the connector looked good,seated correctly,all appears good.When you test for cont. thru it it failed.Since I know that when the white wire fails it overcharges and the yellow is the other one in the alt plug I would check that first.If good I would check the rest.If all paths are good then another volt reg may be in order.I just find that hard to believe as they last along time.Anythings possible though. Keep me informed please. Daniel

I assume That when all is together as normal you do not any change of voltage with the car running or not nor does turning the headlight on make any positive change. The next step since you have had multiple volt regs on is to to test thru the connector that your volt reg attaches to.The normal failure is the white wire doesn't have cont. thru to the volt reg and it causes the battery to get a overcharge as thats the wire that tell it to shut off.Get some small nails or such to use as small tips for your meter and make sure you have cont.thru all wires in that white molex connector with it plugged in normally. Daniel

Phred thanks for the correction.After review I find I was incorrect in my understanding of its function.I think I was 180degrees off.It doesn't hold pressure it decreases the pressure.Thats why when he "increased pressure" it reduced the flow to the rear wheels.Am I correct now? Sorry for the incorrect data. Thanks for the save Phred. If you don't make mistakes you don't learn. Daniel

Brian,Are you reading 14volts at the battery with the car running NOW??? daniel

Brian,Mine is stock volt reg. Question. You said if this one is bad it will be the third.How long did the other two last?I assume they did work for aleast a short time.This last unit you said you were going to test.Was this an off the car at a auto shop test?If not how.Are you getting the 240 remanu. unit or a 280 unit?LT-150=240 LT160=280.Are you using a meter to test wiring or jsut looking it over?If you don't mind all the questions we can maybe get closer toa fix. Daniel

I once fought a similar demon.Under such conditions as you spoke of.Turns out my problem was when I install my driveshaft I replaced one of the four bolts/nut/washer that attach the driveshaft to the rear end.The other 3 were factory.When I replaced all four with the exact size,length,washer and nut the problem went away.I must assume that the speed was just enough to magnify the super slight weight difference and cause the vibration.I woundn't have believed it. Daniel

If the alt. works then does not it is not a fuse.Fuses are all or none. I'm not aware of a volt reg eatting alternators but you could be #1.The volt reg is just a switch that decides if the battery needs to be charged or not.Once up to proper rpm the alternator makes electricity no matter if the battery wants it or not.Kinda like the power company where you live makes it and just because you have your switch off the potental is still there.

If your wiring and fuses and fusible link are good consider this. The Alternator is a remanufacture not new. I have had three DOA units that I can recall in my years of auto fixing.Parts from a box although not usually,can be bad.That goes for volt regs also. Daniel

The valves job is to try to ensure the rear wheels lock before the front.If you've ever had the front lock first on a motorcycle you understand oh too well.Increase pressure is somewhat false.It holds pressure is more correct.Most disc I believe are 5lb. For drum they hold 10 lb. of pressure on the rear brakes.That way when you hit the brakes ,the rear brake is already 5 lb(or X amount with the adjustable unit) of pressure ahead of the front. Therefore it's pressure is alway alittle greater than the front for the first split second each time you hit the brake pedal.

Once you find the correct size make sure to use plumbing plugs.Plumbing threads are done in a tapered v .Therefore as the diameter increases it seals the hole.A standard bolt or electricial plug is not tapered and you will get a leak around the threads. Daniel

If the antenna works on the bench .Then you have a few choices.If I read it correctly turning your radio on or off powers the antenna.That is done thru an external relay in most cases.It is usually in the area with the antenna or behind the radio.Check connections.Check the ground on the antenna.Some imports use the antenna coax cable shield as the ground for the radio.Kinda silly ,because I've seen people break their antenna and the radio won't even turn on.I doubt someone set yours up that way.Sounds as if you may have gotten into a bad run of antenna's.The workbench test will tell.Remember the 240 had a manual momentary contact switch to power the antenna.Perhaps you could install one as a temp. measure to eliminate any intermit radio issues. Have fun!! Daniel

You may want to check out car carriers in the yellowpages or such.I thought as did you do once that a rental would be cheapest.I found it was more expensive to drag it home on my own.The carriers will pick it up and drop it off at your house for less and its a lot easier!! HaveFun!! Daniel

Those look cool but,won't pass state inspection in alot of areas.Just a thought. Daniel

The carbs/intake and air cleaner will get your $200.00 back if you go that route.The fix it and she decides if she wants or not is alright too if thats your deal. A word of caution I have seen before.The time comes for the switch and the owner that had the car sit for years can't find the title.In most states you can't even give it to a junk yard without that. If you like working on 240's you have HOURS of enjoyment.Also get the deal in writing.Hate for you to get it fixed,something happen to her(hopenot!!)and her family want her car back. Have Fun!! Daniel

Except for the power loss.It sounds like the gaugeMaybe you have two issues.There is a very small contact set in it that looks like the point set in your dizzy.You may have luck filing them smooth as the intermit contact is the cause of your float problem.Replace the gauge is the easiest.I understand you being so upset.I spent hours thinking I was on the trail of the problem only to find it was in the gauge.Next up---- Your temp and oil pressure gauge will float in tandem. Same contact set in the oil gauge portion runs both gauges. Remember the relay on the passenger side should click when the key is switched on.I have had that go bad thus no power to dash. Have fun!! Daniel

Who you think taught him?? I have a hard time buying----BRAKE GREASE!!!!! As a comedian I heard once said.I don't need that!!!!

Squeeal!!! I hate that also!!! Seems the most common responces are the new pads or or the rotors must seat.The other is that the nonfactory pads are just a little small and are allowed to vibrate. The normal bitch is when you just drive down the road and the brake make a very low wek,wek.Not quite enough to be a true squeak.Anyway,The fix I have found was shown to me by a True Datsun ,worked at the dealer as the warranty fixer on 240Z's man.DUCT TAPE!!! Use the cloth type.Apply it to (obviously)The metal side of the pad.Cut the excess off with a razorblade.Then place the (so-called)anti-squeal on the top of the tape.I average about 6000 to 8000 miles per Duct fix. This also works on 280Zx's and 300Z's. Have fun!! Daniel