Daniel

I would speak to the shop doing the work before I ordered anything.You would hate to hear --Well we use this other product and can't guarantee yours.The less headaches the better!

You say NEW motor.I don't know if that means the same and rebuilt or different.Either way I would make sure the lobe that is supposed to be on the cam is installed.This is what moves the fuel pump arm.Pull off the pump and check for it.It is like a out of round over grown washer.If not its easy to put on once the valve cover is removed.

I have a 4 row rad. and run a 190 thermo.I have had this setup for years,no trouble,the engine loves it.I do have the flex fan and therefore have no fan clutch.My stock rad. was made into a 4 row at the local shop.I think perhaps your fan clutch is bad/weak.I think I read that when the car is at normal temp (and of course OFF!):stupid: You should not be able to turn the fan very easily by hand.That means its engaged.The other thing is perhaps an air bubble is not allowing you to put in the proper amount of coolant.I haven't had that trouble with my 240 but,I have a jeep that needs to "burp" two or three times after you refill the thing from empty.Also make sure the channels between the radiator tubes are clean.I've seen mud/grass block the flow although those were off road cars.I have also seen a thermostat installed upside down cause trouble.I'm not sure if that could be done on a z.Timing too far advanced I believe can also cause temp issues.

MIke, The ends you are after are commonly called Molex connectors.As it is the company that first made them.They are available at Fry electronics,radio shack has some,most any electronic shop.If yours are still good they can be reused.The connectors in them have a little metal tooth that locks in to hold it firmly in the molex(white)housing.There are extraction tools available that will allow you to remove the damaged connector and replace it with a new end that will lock back in place.If you want to experiment ,the round connectors are unlocked by sliding a tube around the outside to push the lock tooth down.The flat require a small flat piece of metal to push down the lock.Look at the replacement connectors and you will see the locks I speak of.

I would replace the cap/point/cond. also.As they wear it obviously increases the distance between the contacts.Sand can clean them but wear is wear.Just a note,I have a master mechanic friend that says sandpaper is not advised.He says the adhesive that holds the sand to the paper can stick to the part you sand.As it gets hot and burns it becomes an insulator.I use a metal diamond nail file I took from my wife for points and a wire brush for plugs.

Being here deep in NASCAR country I have been to many open house parties that the teams have.I have always found it kinda funny that in this hi-tech world the majority of NASCAR teams use 1/4 inch plywood in the floorboard.It doesn't transfer heat and also does slight noise and floor vibration reduction according to those that build the cars.

George,on raised areas like that the trick is to use a cigarette filter.Spray some chrome paint into the lid of the can(a small amount).Touch the filter to the paint.When you touch the raised area the paint adheres there only!.The strength of the filter stops it from going anywhere else.It took a pack of smokes to paint my brake lines under the hood.It also works great on the datsun emblem on the glove box door.I found touch lift and move works better than touch and drag but,whatever works best for you.

More radiator won't make your engine run cooler.Thats the thermostats job.What is the problem you wish to resolve?Keep in mind cooler isn't always better.Too cool can be bad for performance.Perhaps a plastic fan shroud is you answer.

Yeah thats the ones.I was doing it from memory and now recall the one clip/stop piece are from my '46 chevy truck.They are all pretty much the same though.Now you start banging as I stated before.

One side has a clip that must be removed.The other end has a fixed metal piece.With the clip removed you hit the cap on the end with the fixed metal stop.This will push the bearing cap that contains the roller pins out of the end that had the clip.With that end removed you can get the joint out from between the yoke.The last step is the removal of the cap in the fixed end.Install is the reverse.Some come out easy some need the pro's tools.Good Luck!!

Piece of cake.It was made for a swap.The only gotcha's are You use a 240 in/ex gasket so it will cover the holes that the injectors use on the 280.I then used screw plugs to fill the exposed holes where the bolts that hold the injectors are.This just keeps dirt from filling them up.Also if you are using mech.fuel pump you must transfer the lobe that runs the pump to the front of the 280 camshaft.Thats it!!

I agree with St.stephen.I must assume this is a joke.If not and you let your friend do this---as they say if dumb was gasoline ,you wouldn't want to smoke around him!!!

Hey George,After 30+ years of service its fails.Therefore it is unreliable? They just fill up with all the small carbon and crap.You are indeed correct on your "go to ground" test. I would just like to add that the fuel and temp can be tested in the exact same fashion on ALL cars I am aware of.In fact I have a friend that is a GM tech.On GM cars 70 thru early 90's when you switch the key on it lights a "gen" light.If that bulb burns out the car will not start!!!It's quite the war story session of the mechanics attempts to solve the problem when its just a bad light bulb!!!

No conversion needed.The external voltage reg units are the same except because the 280 had more electric requirments it has a higher amp charge.They are a excellent swap.The internal 280zx unit had internal volt reg and did require the conversion you mentioned. They all perform the same task,they just charge the battery.

Make sure you drain the tranny before removal.Also have a bucket and rag.Once the driveshaft is removed it will leak.When you tilt it down it will pour.Also wrap something around the clutch slave cylinder so it won't fall apart.And DONT touch the clutch pedal or it will blast the parts from the slave cyl.Also this is an excellent time to replace the rear main engine seal and the rear tranny seal.

I took a set to a u-joint speciality shop for commerical trucks.They had the correct press.They charged $3.00 per joint that included remove and install my supplied.As always the proper tool makes all the difference.

My brother inlaw is an inspector for fraud with a large insurance company.A guy crashed his 280xz into a tree.He claimed that the gas tank was punctured and the fuel ran under it and caught it on fire.When my brother-n-law saw the tank he noticed that it was a smooth V like knife stab.The kicker was the car was on a steep hill and the tank was on the low side!! So the fuel ran uphill under the car huh?? The guy was then promptly arrested.

As far as the mixing goes.When I was in high school working at a gas station a customer came in and put in half regular,half hi-test.On that day one of the suits from the main office was there and saw this.He's wasting his money he said.Different grades of gas are like oil and vinegar.They don't mix.I have always remembered that although I have no proof of it being fact.

It was sometime in around 1977 on thanksgiving eve.The family was meeting at our beach house for the feast.I left Charlotte about 1am.I liked night driving and decided I would see how fast i could make the 3 1/2 hour normal trip.I was young and at that time had never had a ticket.I thought I was bulletproof.About 45 minutes out I was running about 105mph and noticed in my rearview that in the distance a car was gaining on me.Either he's as crazy as me or he wants me I thought. After going over a hill I slowed and pulled into a parking lot for a chicken processing plant.The guard at the gate had his back to the entrance.I turned off my car and rolled passed between two pickups with campers.Shortly a highway patrol slowly rolled up to the entrance.he shined his spotlite ,but I was well hidden.A few minutes after he left I was gone again.All was well for another hour of about 90 average.Then as I went over a hill a local cop was coming the other way.Nowhere to go I kicked it until I saw a turn off.By then he was on me.I kept making turns until he hit the blue lights.Do you know how fast you where goin' he ask.No sir but I don't believe I was speeding I said.Well buddy,on the hill I clocked you a 90.When I reset it you were doin' 115.Why did you pull in here he ask?I thought there was a coffee shop in here I said.Well if you don't know how fast you were goin' I think you need a pot of coffee and if it wasn't my get off time I would carry your arse to jail!!!HE LET ME GO!!!He said that lots of cops were out between there and the beach.When i left him I thought "Why would he tell me that if it was true?I ran about 100 mph to the beach.As you arrive there is a steep bridge that gets you on the island.At the bottom of the bridge I was going 90mph.O.K.your here I said to myself.I let off the gas and coasted up the steep incline.As I crested the hill I was going35mph and saw a highway patrol in front of me,I followed him into town.OH the joys of youth!!

I had mine polished and ported some years ago.Its amazing -The same amount of excess metal on the outside of the intake manifold was on the inside.I was VERY pleased with the results.I was thinking Bart may be just as happy in his quest for the best intake.

I am certain the lawyer thing is common.They have a staff of lawyers on hand.It cost them nothing. Now if you tell the bmw that his insurance is playing with you and you don't want to but you may have to sue HIM for the difference ,he may get on your side.If it was me I would tell my insurance company fix that man's car!! I screwed up and thats what I pay you for!!! You said the cop wrote $1500.00 est. Are your cops there trained estimators???HUH????

Thanks 2mz's thats it.I couldn't remember the name.One post was asking about intakes. they said N this and N that .Mine is E46.This site says he's heard of it but never seen one.Oh well. Thanks again.

A few years ago on the old web page there was a link,I think called Zgarage. It was the one that told a complete run down on the most correct parts to build your Z.Anyone still have acopy of that. I think mine was lost during a pc crash. The link used to appear in the bottom left corner of the homepage here.

I've seen at idle the tail pipe taps against the rear panel where it exits the car.Try holding the tailpipe (of a glove is required)and see if it stops.The lift idea is O.K. but I would prefer either a pit or a lift like the muffler shops use so the weight is not taken off the suspension.That could hide the problem on a standard lift.

Smokey, The weather is getting too nice!!I love my Elkin to asheville day runs along the Blue ridge parkway.Remember they allow NO commercial traffic.During a week day sometimes after a good run I just put the car in neutral to see how far I can coast!!That is freedom at its finest!! I can go fast or slow 'cause I'm all there is on the best mountain roads ever made!!! Get One!! I want to meet you there!