ajmcforester

Look the first thing I mentioned about sound is example of how confused people can get, not fact. Second I stated you do get higher power on the top end, so yes you can get more. Yet he did not give from start so it is hard to comment on that part and what other mods did he have from stock. I'm sorry you think my test was out of my butt. I might not have had HP and torque numbers and I didn't mention we had set distances with stop watches. That might not be the most accurate, but it can give you a general idea if you went backwards. The reason I went down to a 2.25" is several people that had worked on these cars since the early 70's had found that out with the 240Z and they had a higher diameter recommendation for the 280Z. This is not exact and their are things you can do to improve flow in the pipe design. Those guys from that sight you posted explained a point I also made that a pipe that expands in diameter can help flow. That is what the horn like exhaust systems do. The exhaust does need some length, but not the length of the car. That is to aid and vector the exhaust away from the engine. A great example of needing some length is the Ford GT40, they could have dumped it straight out the side, but they made what was later called the web exhaust do to how tangled it was to cram the piping in.

OK their are a lot of miss under standing out their on how exhaust systems work. I even heard that tuned headers use the sound waves to aid in the flow of air. A well laid exhaust will help in flow, diameter can have an effect on power. lets look at nothing which acts like maximum diameter you will loose power exhaust leaks do the same thing the closer to the engine you are. The ideal setup is to have the pipe expand and gets wider over its length at a set radius. This will help create a flow dynamic that aids in moving the exhaust. This is something I experienced using an exhaust manifold and 2.75" pipe it was slow off the bottom end as the car got into the higher RPM it was faster. I reduced the pipe diameter to 2.25 and the car started faster, but didn't accelerate faster at the higher RPM. Weather this is scavenging or some other affect it is the case.

I have pictures, lots of pictures of my car and I might have the one you are looking for. My car is less than 25' from my bed so I can get pictures if not. To help can you take a picture of the area in question so I can get what would help you out the most?

I would take #1 if it is after I re-chrome the bumpers and #2 if before I re-chrome the bumpers

Steve I'd agree if this was a structural part with your argument, however it is not. I think the main reason they make it in one piece is for production reasons. it is easier to make everything line up when welding when it is one piece sense they need to be in a line. The original part this replace isn't one piece and the mounts are designed to be that way. I'd be concerned about cutting it otherwise. Also the cuts would need to be in the correct spot otherwise you would be correct also and it would weaken the mount. In other-wards the part is structural over engineered

I can't wait to see it on your car take pictures of the installation, I've looked at this header it is so nice (you better not scratch it). If I ever find my rear resonators for my vintage Supersprint exhaust will haft to compare exhaust tones. By the way it was mentioned a triple carb setup are you going to run stock carbs or a different setup. You are going to be able to push more volume with that setup. If you are going stock intake don't go over 2.25" pipe the car will not scavenge properly at low RPMs and you will louse some low end power if you go larger.

I've seen them. To compare them to original, their are some slight differences, however I can point them out and a lot of people still can't tell the difference, they are that close. The easiest to tell is the piping, their was two different size piping on the originals, the smaller isn't around. It was about .5-1mm in size difference. Next is the seat pattern the vinyl pattern used originally is not available. What they are using is so close to the original that I'm impressed. The sides and back of seat are correct Lastly the seat vents are not exact. The lip is slightly more pronounced, and they don't have a screen behind the vent, that you can't normally see anyways. I only know of two companies that are actually doing these covers one is really good, the other lets not talk about them. I will let you know that the good company seems to have different quality control depending on the vendor so it does make a difference who you buy from.

I agree if you have a question about his products give a call he, I have found him to be very honest. I think his are made by Seatz, but I'm not 100% sure.

agree otherwise you will leave micro cracks in the metal

3m is a good bet for the glue and maybe a shoe repairer would know of some stuff.

Tighten the clips in the connectors and see if that helps. Check for clean connection points, you can still get the parts for the connectors. If you want to take the connector blades and sockets out, they have a tab you push down on the inside of the connector.

I was thinking that would be a latter muffler setup their is not much room for a large muffler what is the dimensions? About 14" body is about the max leignth that fits. Diameter varies on shape Edit: What look or sound are you going for? A nice glasspack can sound very nice or something that might give you a good look for less maybe??

The thing I like is you can adjust it later if you want. On the bumper guard in the last picture it looks like they cut them on the seam and glued it back together taking a couple ribs out

If it is for the same year, I don't see why not

On your bolt idea would it be easier to just wire it into place, then no hole drilling into the shock and the shock would be allowed to compress. In off road racing they will use a retention strap to keep the shock from fully extending and smacking the valves damaging or breaking the shock. On one end loop it around the mounting point then under the car from the hole for the shock and to that mounting point. You might need to use cable so to keep it tight refer to garage door cables to make the tension part.

If you can I'd consider sending them back, but I would call the manufacture first. They might take care of you.

I'd take some of the warp out and get a crush gasket if they make them for the z that will make a tight seal.

OK sometimes it can be fun to play a guessing game but maybe this could be more useful. http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsunS30/DatsunFairladyZIndex/Body240Z/TailGatePanelTrimLockRearBumper/tabid/1765/Default.aspx

I'd take it apart and clean it, and make any needed repairs. You know it work, the contact may be louse or the corrosion is block contact with out seeing it that would be my guess.

I've seen this it work great, I might see if I can find a company that does this service. I don't think for my use that I can justify the $600 price tag for the cheap setup

One thing I should have mentioned is that they have two different simulated chrome product at Eastwood so please let us know which one you used. One is "Liquid Chrome" and "Almost Chrome" They also have a powder-coat product that I'm not to interested in ( I don't want to back parts in my oven). Dave I've seen the Almost Chrome product it looks just like the stuff you used

I was look at some of the plastic chrome parts on my Z that need refreshing. The part is in good shape except the chrome is cracked or pealing. I knew about "Liquid Chrome" product and thought this might be a good way to get good results and not spend $500-$1,000 in replacing good parts or re-chroming plastic parts that won't last as long as the original coating do anyways. I know over a wide surface area it more or less would not look right, however the parts I'm looking at don't have large areas of chrome, and have black painted surfaces. I was looking at using this for the chrome bars on the tail lights, the emblem on the glove box door, the bottom of the shift knob, the heater-control panel. Has anyone tried this? How well did it turn out? (Pictures please) Is this just a bad idea? http://www.eastwood.com/ew-liquid-chrome.html

You should enter some TSD events they will help your skill with little to no risk. They can also be a bunch fun and you can use just about anything

A good navigator is more important than the driver. You read the wrong turn you might be in air upside down, I've been their as the driver. The two of you need to get to know each other it's like ballroom dancing, one gives direction and the other follows with the data given. Don't go cheap on communication data!

Keep up on the details it will be a blast.