Miles

I called Wilwood and they said that they do not supply a 1/8 NPT to 10mm x 1mm adaptor. I found the Wilwood to metric adaptor at Flyin Miata on-line . It is specifically made to fit the Wilwood proportioning valve: 1/8 -27 to 10mm x 1mm. p/n 14-76255 Link http://www.flyinmiata.com/index.php?deptid=&parentid=&stocknumber=14-76255

The Wilwood come with a fitting that has 1/ NPT threads on one end that screws into the valve body and what looks like 3/8 fitting on the other. Could the 3/8 end be a standard SAE brake fitting? If so then I could replace the 10mm inverted flare with the standard SAE and reflare the end. What SAE fitting do I get to replace the 10mm fitting? I am going to call Wilwood.

I am plumbing hard lines for a Wilwood proportioning valve (PV) in my 240z. The PV will be installed in the tool box behind the passenger seat. The easy way to connect the Datsun 10mm x 1mm brake line would be with a 1/8 NPT -27 to 10mm x 1mm adaptor that screws into the PV, but I can't find one here, Summit, local parts stores or local speed shops. The only solution seems to be going with a 1/8 NPT -27 to AN -3 male to AN -3 to 10mm x 1mm adaptor which results in an ugly stack up of parts. Does anyone make a 1/8 NPT -27 to 10mm x 1mm inverted flare adaptor that can be screwed into the Wilwood PV?

It was the hose that goes from the float bowl to the nozzle under the carb. Don't know how the hose got trapped between the carb and the back of the air cleaner box.

I had the carbs set too rich and the other problem was that the hose that goes from the float bowl to the jet/needle valve assembly on the bottom of the carb got trapped by the air box such that movement of the jet was resricted. As soon as I freed the hose the engine ran fine.

What is center cap? Tokico blue shocks are 1 year old. The clunk returned after the R200 was installed. I opened up the R200 and is was like new inside. The seals were in good shape but I replaced them anyway. Also, turning the input shaft showed no slack or clunking. The R200 is very solid while driving. U-joints are tight. But I am going to replace all of them just to make sure. Mustache urethane bushings are new. All bolts were hit with an air gun and then torqued down. Diff front mount is solid and installed with an air gun and torqued down. A member at Hybrid had the same problem after installing MSA urethane bushings and it turned out the clunk was caused by the large front inner control arm bolt on the passenger side working loose. He solved the problem by adding a washer and locktight and re-torqueing that large bolt. I'll try that and report back the results. Thanks Miles

72 240Z: Approximately 6 months ago I replaced the stock rear control arm bushings with MSA urethane bushings because the outer passenger side pivit was clunking when shifting and going over bumps. The clunking went away with the new urethane bushings. Now the rear passenger control arm is clunking again when shifting. At least I think that I have narrowed it down to the control arm bushings. Last weekend I installed a tight 3.54 R200 with urethane mustache bushings, checked the U-joints and tightened all of the suspension bolts during re-assembly. And still I get a loud clunk from the passenger side. I also checked the stub axle flange and it is tight. The stub axles are new Nissan parts installed two years ago. What would cause new urethane bushings to act like the old stock worn out rubber bushings? Could the metal sleeves be defective? Could the sleeve ID too big allowing movement about the pivit pin? From searching the forum I know that the sleeves become locked in place once they are tightened down and the the bushing rotates around the sleeve, but it seems that if there was slop between the sleeve and the pivit pin the sleeve could move. Thanks Miles __________________

Is there supposed to be a nylon shoe guide at the lower rear corner of the window that slides inside of the rear window channel? I thought I saw one on my 72, but it is gone and now my driver's window flops around. Miles

The R200 front differential mounting bracket has the differential offset to the passenger side. Can someone compare side by side the R180 and R200 front mount and the mustache bars. Here are some pictures of the R200 bolted to the front mount bracket. Could it be that Datsun offset the R200 mounts to the passenger side to compensate for the wider R200?

240Z vs 280Z halfshaft length: There has been much debate about halfshaft length and the R200 swap with the concern being that the R200 driver's side halfshaft is shorter to compensate for the R200 which bulges to the driver's side. The point being that if you use the 240Z driver's side halfshaft it will be too long and will bottom out causing binding of the suspension. Also, I have read of complaints about the 240Z driver's side halfshaft not fitting during installation. I just measured a left and right 78 280z half shaft in the fully compressed position. They were both 12 1/2 inches center to center as measured at the fixed part of the yolk. I then measured the left and right halfshaft in the fully extended position and got 14 1/8 inches for the right side shaft and 13 7/16 inches for the left side shaft for a 11/16 inch difference. Is that enough to make a difference? Question: Has anyone who did the R200 swap using their 240Z halfshafts actually experience the driver's side halfshaft bottoming out or any installation or suspesion problems?

RolfSis Why not just recover your seats? I bought a seat kit for about $125 and reovered both seats over a weekend. Miles

What is the best way to make old leather seats look better? Mine are a little faded and the driver's seat bottom has some wear.

98 GSR seat install pics

It cost $230. It is built stout so I can wrap my shoulder harness around it.

Here are are some pictures of a rear strut bar I had a local fab shop make. It was built by Tolle Fab in Sacramento 916-524-5315.

Nate There is a space the thickness of your hand between the side rails and the seat and also between the seat and the transmission tunnel. They do not touch the doors. I am 5-11 and there is about 3 inch clearence between my head and the roof. My son is 6-2 and his head just about touches the roof. The seats do sit higher, but I llike it since the stock seats were like sitting on the floor. Also, the sliders move through their total fore and aft range. The GSR seats have the look I wanted. The Z32 seats look good and thet sound like they were easier to install. I figured that black leather Z32 seats would be $400 to $600 at the bone yard so I didn't consider them. I'll try to post some pictures. Miles

Doesn't MSA and Black Dragon sell the felt strips that go in the window channel?

The felt looks to be all worn away. I'll replace the felt. Thanks Miles

There are several spot welds and some are hidden inside of the GSR slider. Remove (unbolt) the brackets that the GSR seat rails are spot welded to. It will make finding and drilling out the spot welds easier. Also remove the plastic covers on each side of the seat. Take your time locating where to drill the holes in the flat stock brackets. I did the passenger side perfect, but mis-drilled the driver's side bracket just enough to prevent the Datsun rear slider mount bolts from lining up. Cost me a few hours trying to figure out which holes were off. Test fit and measure carefully. Also note that there is a left and right side locking control slider on the Datsun. The passenger side is marked R and does not slide back as far as the driver's side slide control which is marked L. Note that the GSR seat frame where you removed the original sliders is at different elevations so when you mount the brackets and the Datsun sliders you will have to add some washers to make the brackets and sliders level. On the Datsun back slider bolts ( the long ones) that go through the floor mounts add two of the Datsun spacers to raise the back up otherwise the seat hits a high spot on the floor and will not go all the way back. If your seat does not go all the way back there is a problem. If I did this again I would have just cut out a square plate and bolted it to the GSR frame after removing the sliders and then test fit the seats and mark the hole positions that allow centering the seat. Lastly use grade 8 metric bolts. If you have measured carefully the seat will pop right into the Datsun floor mounts. How do you post a picture here? Miles

Is there also a nylon guide that rides inside the rear window channel at the bottom of the window? My driver's side widow rattles around and upon inspection it looks like there should be a guide on the lower left (from driver's viewpoint) corner of the window as there is a lot of slop in the rear window track. Window rolls up and down ok, just a lot of sloppy fit of the window in the window tacks. Miles

I just bought a pair of 98 Integra GSR black leather seats for $240 and installed them. They fit perfectly, look like they belong on the car, and the stock seat belts are still usable without modification. Removing the GSR seat rails was a bit of a pain due to the many spot welds that I had to drill out. Once I got the seat rails off I installed two pieces of steel flat stock 1/8" x 4"W 18"L across where the GSR seat rails used to attach at the front and rear of the seat. Then I bolted the Z sliders to the flat stock after a test fit in the car. The GSR seats are much more supportive especially in the lumbar area. Miles

I just spent a day looking for seats at several auto wreckers. I found a set of 2003 Saab 93 seats that should fit in a 240Z. The width is just under 22 inches and the seat rails look like they would be easy to modify. The driver's side seat is powered. No air bags. Price for black leather is $400.00. Has anyone installed 2003 SAAB 93 seats in Z? Miles

Gary I have done the R200 swap before in a V8 240Z, but my recent research indicates that because the R200 is offset to the driver's side it causes the driver's side half shaft to bottom out which can lead to handling problems. I have read so many pro & con discussions on this issue that there may be some truth to it. With my V8 Z I did experience wheel hop while stomping on the gas through a corner. I never did find out the true cause of the wheel hop before selling the car though. Is this myth or true about the R200 causing the driver's side half shaft to bottom out? This is my only reservation about installing another R200. The L24 is fine for a daily work car. Miles

I am on my second JY R180 differential. Are there any shops in the Sacramento area that can rebuild a R180? Also, are there any shops in Sacramento that can rebuild a L24 engine? I can take the engine to Rebello, but would prefer to find an engine builder in Sacramento if possible. Thanks Miles

Door locks as when it closes. I had this problem on my 72 240z drivers door. On close examination I discovered that there is a small spring shaped like the spring part of a safety pin that keeps the lock plunger in the up (unlocked) or the down (locked position. The spring was missing on my driver's door. Without the spring the lock plunger flops up and down freely and stays in the down (locked) position which is why you have to hold the key in the unlocked position or hold the lock plunger up to exit the driver's side door. Most likely the spring just fatigued and broke from years of use, and door slamming, and fell out. Go look at the door that works (remove interior panel) and move the lock plunger up and down and you should see the spring that keeps the plunger in the up or down position. I never found a suitable replacement for the spring so I bought a new door mechanism. Miles