Mat M

Someone recently posted a link to a car-care website that I took to heart. My car had a bad case of oxidation after being banished to the PO's side yard since 1992. I decided to purchase the 3M Imperial Hand Glaze and 3M Perfect-it Show Car Liquid Wax. The first pic is right after the hand glaze was buffed out, with the hood down. The second photo is of the hood down, from a slightly different angle, after the wax. The third is with the hood up, after the glaze, and last pic is hood up after the wax. I think this is money well spent, shining up a single stage (no clear coat) finish that is older than I am!! I can't wait to drive her to work this coming week! It's supposed to be sunny all week!!!

Nice. Very interesting. I am happy to see I won't have to throw away any money for a tow adjustment. I am polishing her up right now, just taking a break. Hand glazing/waxing is a real chore! I will post pics of before and after on the hood in the body and paint section right now!

All right, Arne, I'll look around. That mod seems quite interesting to me. Thanks again for your help!

Then it's settled. I will wait till I can afford the Poly bushing set. Thanks, guys. I love you, man!

I had a feeling about that, that's why I asked. Jon, you are right about the bushings, but it will be a couple of weeks before I get the ES Poly bushing set. Until then, I didn't want to wear out my new tires. I am planning on driving the car this week until my truck gets back from the shop with new axle grease seals and front calipers. I am concerned about the severe left pull under braking. There is a slight left pull when just driving. I have never played with a tie rod, or any suspension, for that matter. Do I just loosen a locknut and turn the tie rod end in a couple of turns? I guess I should do a search before posing this question...Off I go.

Yes, I am using the e12-80 module. I do have a couple of e12-92s available if anyone is interested. What, specifically, were the connectors for which you were looking? Do you have schematics as to which circuit goes where? I guess I should take a look at the ZXs I have to see what the idea was about.

...a national chain-type tire store for a 4 wheel alignment? I have tried searching, but did not find a thread where this topic was discussed. The Big-O tire store near my work will do a 4 wheel alignment for $90. Would you trust them with your baby? Thanks in advance! Mat

...And the heavens opened, and the angels sang. And He saw that it was good. All is done! THANKS TO ALL, this morning I was able to swap out the ignition switch so the car starts more reliably; and I was able to rewire the coil wires so that the tach actually works!!!! That helped me to see that I am idling about 600 rpm (I don't have a timing light yet, I just adjusted by ear). Now, if I could only find someone who would be willing to sell (or trade) me an adapter for a 81ZX alternator for my 240... ;o)

HA HA HA HA HA HA HA HA ROFL I work in Citrus Heights, one of the uh, less fortunate areas of the suburbs of Sacramento, between (from what I can see from the parking lot) 4 apartment complexes. I don't want to make it any easier for some meth head to steal it. Thanks for the info guys, I would literally be lost without all your help!

Oh, cool, so I can austensibly change out my existing one with one I have in a crate and not worry about the ignition lock? Nice!

Thanks to all, especially to JM who reminded me... I guess I will be trying one of the 400 ignitions I have. Is there a way to re-key an ignition so I can have only one 4 inch key on the ring that will work with all the locks?

Escanlon, I bow to you. As usual, I was 100% wrong. I should just remember to do exactly opposite of what I think should be done. I will try that fix tonight. Since you brought up the VR, I have a ZX alternator, will I have to use a larger VR if I swapped it in? I got another problem now. The last couple of times I have had the car warmed up, after shutting down, when I try to restart, I hear the solenoid click, but the starter does not engage. It's intermittant. Sometimes if I just hold the ignition all the way to the start position, it will engage the starter, sometimes not. Sometimes the starter will engage right away.

Still NO GO. I connected the benign B/W wire to the G/W wire to no avail. The lights on the tach work, still. I guess that's a good sign. But now, it seems there is a ZZZZZZZ sound coming from the engine bay when the throttle is hit from idle. ALL the lights, including the headligts get real bright for about half a second during this ZZZZZZZ sound, and then all goes back to normal when the sound dissapears. This tach seems to be stock, yellow line is at 6500 RPM, red at 7K. I wish I had paid attention in electronics class. I lost my mind when they started talking about opamps and such... I am at a loss...

EScanlon...Now YOU are a Z GOD, too! I had a look this evening, last night I couldn't get to her. It was a G/W wire that was loose, and there were two B/W wires on the + side of the coil! While I had the car running I disconnected one of the B/W wires, and nothing happened, I replaced that one, and disconnected the other B/W wire, and the car died. So, I am ciphering that the B/W that had no effect would be the one to connect to the G/W. I am going out to try this remedy RIGHT NOW! Thanks, BTW. You are Arne kick A$$!

:nervous: OK, now what? I will still try to connect the hanging wire. I do not know if the previous 2 owners did any guage swapping. I know the PO tried to make an ignition ECU that was completely FU'd, as well as 2" tailpipes and header. hmmm.

I am with you. I find that I have to sell parts that I don't need at the moment in order to afford the ones I do!

Hey, I got a BUNCH of recylced parts, what are you looking for?

Arne, did you know your reputation, to me, has been increasing with leaps and bounds since I have been lurking on this site? You are now nearing Z GOD-like status! Thanks, I will try connecting that wire when I get home from work.

Man, I thought I was being thurough in my explanation, you guys are good with bringing up questions. You are correct, it is my 71, and it IS running, and yes, I have changed the original dizzy with the ZX and the e12-80 module. See, I am such a newbie that I wasn't aware that the tach and dizzy were related. I thought the tach was like the speedo with a sensor at the crank, or something... Now that you have asked me those Qs, there is a loose wire from the loom with the wires that attach to the coil that comes from the passenger side... [edit] no, I haven't noticed any spikes or play with the tach's needle at all

...for the tach not working? I have just resurrected my car after 12 years of sitting. In fact, I just got her registered yesterday and cannot wait to take her out again when it's not raining. All of the guages work well (I haven't really checked the clock) but the tach doesn't do a thing. I am thinking that maybe a connection is loose, or not attached, when I got the thing there were a LOT of disconnected looms. Any/all comments/help would be greatly appreciated! Thanks!

I apologize, I was speaking in terms of the rear wheel cylinder tear down. There is only one "piston" to speak of.

Welcome! Don't fret if it takes longer than you thought it would. It took me 4 years of on-and-off looking until the right deal came along. Don't jump at the first one. I eventually got mine- relatively rust free- for $500! Oh, yeah, this forum is chock full of people who know their stuff, and may be able to help you find parts that are unavailabe in your neck of the woods. Good luck!

I'm with Montoya_fan01, especially when the piston in seated in the cylinder all the way in.

I have the rebuild kits, I just need to remove the piston from the cylinder...

This is on the same track as with the front caliper piston removal... I have a stuck wheel cylinder piston I am trying to rebuild. For the life of me, I cannot pull it out, or even spin it, for that matter. I tried cleaning it out with B12, then spraying PB on it, let it sit for an hour, tapped on it for about 5 mins, and nothing. I even tried spraying with the airgun into the brake-line fitting threads with 125PSI...nothing. I filled the area around the piston (where the aluminum housing and piston meet) with PB and let sit overnight...nothing. What more can I do? Does anyone know where I can find a left side wheel cylinder, new? Not on e-bay very often.