Bambikiller240

Thanks, I have to contact her later this week about some other stuff so, I'll ask. If she can't get one, I'll try to make something. I'm not noticing any leak (yet), but I figure that seal is in there for a reason.

Sorry to move the thread in a slightly different direction for a moment, but I'm wondering if anyone knows if the oil or grease seal at the transmission end of the speedo cable is available anywhere? While installing my rebuilt engine and new Centerforce clutch I discovered that the seal in my cable is badly torn up. Anyone?

About two years ago, some guy on eBay put up a few auctions claiming that he had found 30 sets of the AMCO floormats with the "Z" on them, and a bunch of the AMCO footrests as well. He actually only put about 5 sets of each on auction over a few months time (they sold for HUGE prices), then he disappeared.

Thanks Mark! Whew, I was hoping it was a typo. :cross-eye I've been looking for another AMCO accessory part. The nice thick Rubber floormats. I wonder if Chloe can get a set of those as well. I'll have to check with her later this week, I need to order something else anyway.

Is that a typo, or ?? Seven THOUSAND Dollars for Luggage Trim moulding?

Hi Craig: As shown in the picture, the handle on the left is the standard choke lever, and the one on the right side is the "Hand Throttle" which was a very early form of Cruise Control which was cable operated. Only the earliest Z's in the USA came with the provision for it, and most of them did not actually have it installed when sold to consumers. My understanding is that is was highly frowned upon by the Feds (NTSB?) and was removed from most cars imported to the US before sale.

Geez, Mark You must be living right! Congrats on the finds!!

SECOND TIME'S THE CHARM -- Unconfirmed Darwin Award Nominee March 2003, Michigan Ignoring Coast Guard warnings, David Manley ventured onto the icy surface of Saginaw Bay with his pickup truck one chilly morning. Predictably, the vehicle broke through the ice, but the 41-year-old managed to avert tragedy and escape from the sinking truck. He reached the shore wet and cold, but alive. Despite his traumatic experience, and despite a day of sunshine and warm temperatures in the 60s, David returned to Saginaw Bay late the following night. This time he was driving an all-terrain vehicle, and accompanied by a friend. Surprise! The ATV also plunged through the ice. His companion survived, but David had used up his luck. His body was recovered by the Coast Guard southwest of the Channel Islands. An autopsy was scheduled to determine whether anything besides a desire to win a Darwin Award was a factor in his demise. REFERENCE: Flint Journal Can you confirm this story? http://www.DarwinAwards.com/darwin/darwin2003-06.html MASTER WELDER -- Unconfirmed Darwin Award Nominee February 2003, Australia I heard this on radio and happened to pass the house the next day. A homeowner was doing some welding on the roof of his house at Port Macquarie in NSW. He had problems with his oxy tanks slipping, so he decided to tack weld them to the roofing iron. That was the last thing he ever did. When I passed the house the next day, there wasn't much left of the roof on that side of the house. REFERENCE: Personal Account citing the Radio Anyone have a reliable media reference? http://www.darwinawards.com/darwin/darwin2003-09.html

MSA sells both the "normal"kit with carpet only for the area's that had carpet from the factory, AND a kit that has carpet covering the strut towers as well . Not sure if it covers the trans tunnel or not.

Hi: Answers from my experience (others may have different opinions): 1. Wire brush on drill, unless you have the equipment, and like the mess that sandblasting will leave. 2. POR-15 is IMO the best treatment to use in this area to ENSURE that no rust will come back. Do a search here, and on the web for more information on what it is, and how it works. 3. Personal preference here. I am installing sound deadner "Q-Pads", then OEM type padding and carpet.

Hi: Sounds like the Switch could be shot. Might want to also check the continuity from end to end of the ballast resistor before you go ordering parts (it's in the engine bay, below the coil), as it can cause this too. Easy to check with an ohm-meter. The Ign. switch can be attacked easier if you remove the whole Ignition Lock/Switch assembly from the car. I drilled small holes in the heads of the funky screws that hold it in. (they don't have a slot or phillips cross) Used an EZ Out to remove them, then I used different "normal" screws to re-install. This doesn't save any time the first time you do it, but at least you're working upright and not upside down. Next time you need to remove the assembly, it's a breeze to pull. Just a thought Good Luck

I see what you are saying about the outer surface of the bushings being "locked" to the body by the locating brackets. I have a new pair OEM inner bushings in my hand (P/N 55555-E4100) and I see that the inner metal sleeve has "teeth" at each end which would work in conjuction with the large washer and cap bolts to lock them down as you describe, since the sleeve and the rubber of the bushing are built as one unit. But, with PU bushings, I'm not so sure about the large cap bolts "locking" the inner metal surface, thus limiting movement to any great degree. I don't recall the metal sleeves (which come in the kit as separate pieces *loose* from the bushings per se) having these "teeth" (they had smooth ends AIR). So, with the inner metal sleeve not being solidly attached to the actual PU bushing material, I don't *believe* that the PU bushings are in shear. I usually don't work on my Rear Suspension this way, but there was an occasion when I needed to change strut cartridges quickly, and I was able to simply undo the 3 bolts at the top of the strut assembly and pull the whole strut assembly down and out of the wheel well, so it didn't seem to me that movement at the inner bushing was limited "very much". (of course, I disconnected the half shaft, the brake line and E-brake cable as well ) The suspension didn't just "fall" down, but I was able to pull it down, and out without too much effort as I recall. Interesting discussion though. I hope someone else will jump in here who can shed more light, confirm or not, what is actually going on there. If the PU are in shear, I understand your concern and acknowledge it's validity, as PU will certainly have less capacity to deform. It's that lesser capacity to deform that makes the handling feel more positive than as delivered from Nissan.

I would say that this blue wire cannot be the cause of the problem on your car unless there is another loose wire somewhere nearby that is not shown in your picture. It "could" have been a "repair" to route power around a damaged section of the OEM (stock) wiring loom, but if so, you should be able to see another "loose wire" within the reach of that wire. Lay on your back in the footwell and look up in there with a flashlight and see if there is another wire hanging loose. If there is, it "should" be fairly obvious, since whoever installed this one didn't bother to try to hide it. That blue wire is NOT part of the "stock" wiring that came in the car as manufactured by Nissan. Someone (previous owner?) spliced it in for "some" reason. Is there 12v at that wire under any circumstances? Ignition switch in "OFF", or "ACC" or "ON"? It "could" have been used to bring to bring power to some "added-on" device like a CB radio, or aftermarket fog or driving lights, or something else that has since been removed. That would be my guess. In any event, I would either remove it or cover that "bare wire" end of that blue wire to insulate it so there is no possibility of it shorting out and causing more problems for you. It's not doing anything any good just hanging there. I would expect that your car's problem lies in some device (component) in the ignition system. The switch on the back of the ignition lock, the ballast resistor, or wiring to the alternator would be places that I'd be looking at for possible cause of the problem that your car is exhibiting. 1. Use an Ohm meter to check for continuity from one end of the ballast resistor to the other end. 2. Carefully examine the wiring and connectors at the back of the alternator and at the voltage regulator to see if it looks like someone as been altering the "stock" wiring. If you cannot tell on your own, post more pictures of those areas and folks here who know what it should look like can tell you. It is possible that someone modified the car to use a later style alternator and did not do so properly. (left out a necessary diode) 3. Borrow an "ignition switch" (on back of the Ignition lock assy) if you can, or bite the bullet and buy one and swap it in. Last time I checked they weren't too expensive ($20 or so) Check it out and get back to us.

I'll add my best wishes for success in your new career path. Nice to see a man doing something to improve himself. All the Best! Carl

They may have the spring tester (dealers usually don't, but ya never know), but it's gonna cost some significant bucks to have the springs removed from the car just for the test.

Can anyone tell us where poly or aluminum spacers for this application can be obtained? (I have a 240Z)

Hi Richard: Please tell me about the OEM bushings being in shear. My understanding (which COULD be wrong, as I'm not perfect) is that they are not in shear. Can you educate me? Does anyone else have input here?

Naw, you got me confused with someone else. I'm VERY 240Z/early 260Z oriented. Never worked on a fuel injected Z or ZX, and have only driven one, once. If I were hazard a guess, I'd say he MIGHT have to match the AFM to the computer controlling the system (probably model year specific in the US) but that's just a Wild arse Guess.

You might try PM'ing ZmeFly as he currently owns a ZX and may be able to guide you on this. Sorry to be of so little help, but I've never owned or worked on a ZX, or any fuel injected Z car.

Did you stick a block of wood down the Timing case in between the loop of chain to keep the tensioner located properly? If not you will be removing the Timing cover to get it back together. If you DID manage to keep the tensioner where it belongs, the gear *should* be able to be put back on the nose of the cam. It can be tough as there is meant to be VERY little slack in the chain, for obvious reasons. Let us know a bit more of how you have disassembled this part of your engine. Were you following the information in a shop manual, or flying blind when you did this?

Good to hear that your car is running as it should. Seems like Zedrally and sjcurtis were the doctors who nailed the diagnosis. Enjoy the Ride!

An easy error to make as it was't on the screen for very long, and as you stated it was a night scene. :classic:

One more thing for you to check before spending money is to see if the choke nozzles at the bottom of your carburetors are sticking open (pulled down) and not releasing (back to the closed "up" position) when you release the choke lever. You'll find it easier to check this if you remove the entire air cleaner including the base plate. It sounds like your front carb is running richer. It could be drowning the front 3 cylinders in fuel due to a stuck float or the choke nozzle stuck open. Just a few things to check. Good Luck.