Bambikiller240

Geez, customer service seems to have gone completely down the toilet since Chloe disappeared. It's a shame to see all of her hard work to build a loyal customer base get destroyed.

Absolutely, 100% NOT true! The evaporation tank and venting was installed on ALL but the very earliest of the 1970 model 240Z's. I have owned an early 71 model 240Z's (mfg'd in 1/71) through 1973 model 240Z's (mfg'd 3-73) and ALL of them have had evaporation tanks. There were two different versions of the evap tank, both located in the same place. The early version of the tank was plastic, and was replaced by a metal tank. The switch in tank styles occured sometime in late 70 or early 71 from what I am told. My 3 240Z's (71,72, and 73) have all had the metal tank Here's a picture of the early tank, I don't have a pic of the metal tank in my files yet.

I think our member "Kats" has pictures of the jack and tools. Either in his gallery or on his website. Someone else had pics of the doors, but I don't remember who. As for seam sealer, my Z's 71-73 had a white caulking applied to seams, but it was not silicone. I don't know how to describe it other than it was of a hard texture, not soft like silicone.

At least "some" of the brackets are for the jack and lug wrench kit that came with the car (if tha Aussie model follows like the USA model). Also, on the verticle surface there are tool storage bins doors mounted in the USA model 240Z's

Your fuel system looks just like Mark Brandyberrys (one of the first 500 Z's to reach USA, mfg'd in 1969). As far as baffles, the USA model 240Z tanks that I've observed only have the support ribs about 2" tall along the bottom of the tank. I would think that they would only "help" a little bit in minimizing sloshing. Other than that, the tanks have been wide open (no baffles to speak of). When our tanks are full, the fuel level is already pretty far up in the fuel filler tube and some of the vent hoses have a lot of liquid fuel in them as well.

I was only saying that i didn't want to start one.

NOT meaning to Argue....... just mentioning....... I have seen others in Australia post about gas spilling as they accelerate. Also, in the USA models when you take a left turn really hard with a full tank, gas sloshes out of the filler cap (yes, that high up) so I would think that you guys might have a similar problem? As for Nissan, well; a lot of companies ignore problems (especially environmental, and expensive to resolve problems) until forced to adddress them by governments. My experience is with 1971 through 1973 US 240Z's and they all have the expansion tank. As I understand it only the "very earliest" (like maybe the first 500 to 1000 Z's imported here did not have the expansion tank and multiple vent hoses.

It would have been nice if our fuel systems could have been made much more simple, though I'm not sure I want gasoline spilling on the ground. IIRC, someone mentioned a while back that the expansion tank and other vents didn't appear in Australia until 260Z's arrived.

Can't compare Aussie market cars to USA market cars in this area. Completely different emissions requirements were in place when the cars were built. There are multiple vent hoses on our USA market cars. 2nd pic is of Mark Brandyberry's very early 70 240Z (HLS30-00215 maybe?) Only the very earliest 1969-1970 production 240Z's arriving in the US had this arrangement.

It could be something broken, or it could also be that the mechanism is all gummed up with lint and grease. Only way to tell is to take the plastic covers off the steering collumn and observe the mechanism as the lever is operated.

Bambi Suicide

OK Jed, you cook the steaks, I'll cook the taters.

Sheet metal. Don't know the gauge, but probably around 16 gauge. Here are some detail pictures of the access panel.

If you do not smell gasoline inside the car, it is more likely to be the filler hose that has failed. If it was the vent hoses, you'd likely smell a molotov cocktail inside the car. EDIT: Of course it could be a leak way low on a vent hose "before" they enter the passenger cabin. Easiest way to check is to remove the access panel at the back of the right rear wheelwell so that you have good visability of the filler hose. Let us know what you find.

Yes. It seems that only .JPEG or .JPG files can be attached or uploaded. .PDF documents and .BMP picture files (amoung others) do not upload.

I don't know. Actually, I wasn't aware that there was supposed to be a mark on the housing until David (panchovisa) mentioned it.

I use a product that I bought from MSA called "Back to Black".

The open end of the bag is folded over and held closed only by nylon rivets, so I don't think it could be considered "weatherproof", but judging by the cleanliness of my Wiper Motor. the bag does do a good job of keeping dirt and leaves away from the motor.

Here is a picture showing the adjustment "cap" that Enrique is referring to.

*** all of this ASSUMES that the bearings have been fully seated, and there are no "assembly" issues causing your problem. Step one would be to look on the strut housing to see if you can find the Code Letter to tell you what distance piece the housing requires. Second, would be to disassemble and see if you have the shortest, or middle length, (or longest) piece. Only then will you know which, if any; of the pieces you need. In other words, if you HAVE the shortest distance piece in your assembly, you could need either the middle, or longest distance piece. (or something else is causing the problem) If you have the middle length distance piece installed, you could need the longest piece (or something else is causing the problem) If you have the longest distance piece installed, and the housing requires the longest piece. (something else is causing the problem) Just my $.02

....or buy a copy of the Jed Clampett BBQ Cookbook.

Odd that the floorpan drain plug is painted the body color. The Z's that I've owned had these plugs unpainted. I suspect a repaint, or some other shenanigans Cancer bubbles under the paint at bottom of Passenger door as well. I'd be inspecting the entire car very carefully before bidding too high How nice that the seller has posted the previous owners name and address on the internet! Real class act! :mad:

Link is messed up. can't even cut & paste to get it to work.

Michael: Sorry, for the "wise guy" answer With 180 ft/lbs of torque applied to the stub axle nut, everything "should" be in the place where it belongs. There should be no room for movement or "settling" of parts. The bearings will spin "more freely" over time as the parts wear, but they should not require much effort to rotate from the very beginning.

David: Let me preface my post with the caveat that I have NO personal experience with this job. I have read and saved as much information provided by others as I can find. First I am understanding that you are using the bearings, distance pieces. washers (shims) and other parts from one set of strut housings and installing them into some (different) other strut housings that you acquired which did not have these parts. Right? I do believe tha the "washers" that you refer to are the shims mentioned, however if you notice there are 3 different sized distance pieces listed in the microfiche: #10-1 43090 - E4100 Piece Distance, Bearing 52.43mm #10-2 43091 - E4100 Piece Distance, Bearing 52.63mm #10-3 43092 - E4100 Piece Distance, Bearing 52.83mm These items do not supercede each other, they each are different lengths and (it is my belief) need to be matched to the strut housing and stub axle that is being installed. This may be where your tightness problem is occurring, since as I understnd it you are using distance pieces from one set of Strut housings in a different set of housings. Please do not take this as 100% gospel truth, but this is what I suspect the problem to be. Hopefully someone else with hands on experience can confirm, or clarify my understanding of the situation.