Mr Camouflage

I was looking at getting an electronic auto darkening welding mask, as I want to have a go at fixing the rust on my Z. I have a cheap mig welder, which isnt particularly suited to the job, but thats another story. It came with a cheap mask, the kind you hold with your hand. The shop I went to (an auto store) had solar powered ones. Has anyone any advice whether to get a solar powered one or a battery powered one. I didnt get the solar powered one, as most of my welding would be done at night time in a shed. but once I got home I started thinking that mig welding would produce UV radiation, which might power the mask? Anyone know if this is how they are designed to work? or would it be no good to me.

This project wouldn't involve t-shirts would it? Any of theres any good to you (not GT-R unfortunaltly) http://www.nissannews.com/multimedia/nd_50_anni/bw/production_1972_skyline_hard-top.jpg http://www.nissannews.com/multimedia/nd_50_anni/color/production_1972_skyline_hard-top.jpg http://www.nissannews.com/multimedia/nd_50_anni/800/production_1972_skyline_hard-top.jpg

here was the other one http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Datsun-240Z-1973-Rare-Classic-Sports-car_W0QQitemZ4649798484QQihZ002QQcategoryZ102220QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

Heres one http://cgi.ebay.com.au/1970-Datsun-240Z-Rare-Series-1_W0QQitemZ4653731044QQcategoryZ102336QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem Early Z Car number HS30-00131 AU $4,100.00 no reserve. You'd probably have to deal with a car importer in Hong Kong, and have them arrange the shipping (If this seller is willing to do that). The other must have ended.

I doubt that the price of 240z's is going to rise much in Australia in the next 5 years. 240Z arent held in the same regard as they are in the USA, except to the people that actually own one. Theres no racing history here in Australia for the 240z, apart from a few rally wins, unlike in the USA. Most Australians still prefer their 5 litre V8 70's classics like the Falcon, and Monaro, followed by Toranas and Chargers. Cars that actually raced in the national racing circuit. 240z's are way down the pecking order and are regarded in the same league as celicas, and mazdas. Lucky there are still us aussie Zed heads to keep the cars on the road, or they may have ended up most of the 240K's that were delivered to australia - crushed and shipped to asia to be melted down and recycled into hyundais. Now a 240K coupe on the road. That's a rare sight. I remember seeing one about 7 years ago, last time I ever saw one. I do still see 240z's and 260z's driving around though.

Weren't the rear quarter panels different in the GT-R? I seem to remember reading on here years ago that the rear quarters were different? Something about the line and the wheel arch, more clearance for tyres? Is was so long ago.....

2 240z's on ebay australia at the moment www.ebay.com.au.

I guess i'll have to take it off my watch list......

I guess he should do his research. Someone told him that these car were worth heaps in Japan, and he believed them. Probably referring to GTR C110's not your garden variety 240K. 240K's are worth very little in Australia.

If you knew the controversy this simple question caused in the first place you would realise whe he didnt want to answer it here. The short answer is that the ebrake is supposed to be on the drivers side and they coulndn't be bothered moving it to the drivers side for the USA market cars, so that why its over on the passenger side. further discussion of this controvesial subject should be continued here http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14798

2 door or coupe??? a 2 door is a coupe. Maybe 4 door or coupe. You wont find a LHD one here. Maybe you can explain to us why 240K's are so popular in Kuwait.

I dont think its that unusual for a car manufacturer to sell a bare shell. The drift monaro gto that competes in the aussie drift circuit was bought as a bare shell, not a complete car, and purposly built/modified for drifting. Same with all the Touring cars. They are bought as a shell and built from there, not bought as a complete car, stripped and rebuilt. They also need spare shells for when cars get destroyed beyond repair. I think he's dreaming about the price though.

how's he expect to sell anything if he doesnt give postage costs, and wont answer questions about shipping.

I think he already sold them to a guy i referred to him.

He's still lying about the 1 owner thing, he's the 3rd owner (1st owner deceased, second owner sold it to this guy on ebay). Always garaged, how would he know. And he still cant spell.

I think he meant loosing economy compared to a RB20 if you built a RB30

Maybe try asking the same question on www.ozdat.com/forum/ in the South Australia section.

EliZZa is talking about 2 stripped bare chassis, the weigth difference between them, not the weight difference between a 240z and a 280Z Mostly what makes the 280Z heaver is all the heavier bits bolted to the shell. (air con, etc). As for differences, you'd want to check that the rear struts are not different. I think there was a change in the rear suspension after the 240z to give the struts more travel, the part of the chassis the struts mount to may have been changed in the later car. But before you do all that, I'd have the 240z chassis looked at by a professional with a car alignment jig/machine, to see if the chassis can be repaired. If its only slightly tweaked it could probably be made straight again.

There were a naps manifolds on ebay.au and ebay.com about 1 or 2 months ago. The one in Aus was listed at $75 and had the fuel rail and injectors, the usa one didnt and was listed at $300. I've been told to use the non egr N42 intake manifold for efi + turbo from someone that has the same setup.

Heres one in a Z.

Interesting. I guess you could take it somewhere to have it given the brushed metal treatment. You'ld have to clear coat it to stop it corroding/tarnishng, since its not aluminium. Maybe you could try brushing it yourself with a wire brush wheel. You could paint it with silver paint. Or you could use it as a template and have some place cut you a new one out of aluminium.

The NAPS (Nissan Anti-Polution System) intake manifold has a twin throtle valve, One main one, and one slightly smaller than the other. The Plenum is larger than the other efi manifolds, and the runners are about the same diameter. NZedder will be able to tell us more, as he has one. I think you have to replace the throttle body with a single valve throttle body for better performance.

I dont see why you would need to remove the fenders. Would probalby be easier to fit the over fenders with the guards on the car. Just tape them in place, or have a friend hold them in place, and drill the holes. Then rivet them on. If the cars not lowered, and you dont have really wide tyres you wont need to cut the guards, but then you dont really need over fenders if you dont have wide wheels.

"Car gets a lot of attention" - Mostly people pointing and laughing. "the reason y i'm selling this car is that I have other z to work" = I'm selling because I cant stand people laughing at me anymore. Bonet vents in the fenders, umm, to keep his brakes cool maybe? Somebody save his other z before he ruins that one too.

Hi Ben. You seem to be misinformed about the RB series. Physically, they are more durable than the L series and cant stand alot more HP being put through them. Also Point 6 is completely wrong from an Australian point of view. We've had RB engines since 1987, so parts for RB engines are cheaper and easier to source than L series parts. Alfa: If you are after horsepower, forget the RB20DE or DET. Sure the turbo can make some power, but you have to increase the boost to get it, but you end up with a laggy engine - not alot of power down low and heaps at high revs. Aslo when you start messing with the boost too much, you have to modify the engine managment computer (piggy back units that modify the signals from the engine sensors), or go with an aftermarket computer, plus spent money on the dyno tuning it. The Rb25DET is a better engine and the extra capacity means it has to work less hard for the same HP that a 2.0 would. Rebuilding an engine will cost $$$ nomater what the engine is. Most of the money spend will be in labour costs. Turbo engines will cost more because of all the extra stuff you have to add to them. As for the L28, it has cubic inches going for it. Raise the compression a little, and have the head ported and polished, extractors. Use EFI for reliability and economy. I'd go for the L28, and spend the money you would have spent on fabricating engine mounts, intercoolers, and all the other costs involved (eg engineers inspections) , on the engine itself. It's period correct, wont require engineering to be legal. Wont be as economical as a 2.0 naturally asprited engine, but will be alot more fun. Another alternative would be the RB30E (VL commodore, Australian built R31 skyline). It may have to be engineered, but the 3 litre capacity and the fact that you can bolt one an RB25 twin cam head for improved breathing, and the availability of engines and parts (relatively cheaply) mean that its an engine to be considered. Builting an RB30DE would be easier and probablyt cheaper than building an L28 3.1 stroker. Or you could built an RB30DET, but i'm guessing that a bit out of your budget.