Zed

Either... ( http://www.ztherapy.com/ ) $595.00 + $150.00 core charge (polishing extra ) or... The triple Weber DCOE with Cannon intake manifold & linkage can be had for $1195.00 ($1345.00 with TWM intake and linkage). http://www.racetep.com/ztripdcoe.html For about $2295.00 you have the six throttle body Fuel Injection system pictured below.

Name: Roger Age: 42 Location: Arkansas Resume': 9 Years USAF (jet Engine Tech.), 10 Years Raytheon Aircraft Services (A&P/Inspector) Autos owned 1967 Chevy Impala (283cid) 1965 Chevy Nova Wagon (Slant 6) 1972 Toyota Corola 1972 Chevy Malibu 350 1973 Dodge Duster (yech!) 1973 Datsun 240Z 1983 Toyota Supra 1997 Jeep Grand Cherokee 1999 Subaru Impreza 2.5RS 2002 Ford Exscape XLT 4X4 * 1973 Datsun 240Z * * = Still Own.

Look around at Hybridz org. It's all about useing different engines in the Z. From basic Small Block Chevy to RB26DETT's, and even the occasional V12.

I have also seen people put generic after-market A/C systems in early Z's. see below http://www.streetrodstuff.com/Products/1303/ http://www.vintageair.com/

Courtesy Nissan has a complete A/C kit for $695.00.

Well the picture is kind'a small so it's hard to say, but judging by the front bumper I'd say it's a 240Z with an after-market airdam.

I like the magic stereo.

Both of the '73's I've owned had Tachs that redlined @ 7000rpm. Notice the rust on the lower insides of the doors?

There is also Modern Motorsports. And there is always Motorsport Auto (MSA)

Try Ebay

Below is a pic from the JTR manual that shows the lower control arm modification that is not shown at http://240z.jeromio.com/frontcross.html I took it with a digi camera, so the quality isn't all that great.

Thanks for the link to the old thread Mike. I guess it's hard not to keep re-hashing old issues. Same ole-Z's, same ole-problems. Very sweet looking pics in that thread. Makes me want to do it even more. Has anybody from the USA tried the (Aussie) service? If so, tell us about your experieince.

I was just snooping around www.dashrestorations.com, and they offer VERY competitive prices. IF you can find your one, you can get a replacement dash for that price, but I doubt it will be in 100% like-new condition, and there's no telling how long it will stay in good condition. (it is 30 or so years old) Just something that makes you go....Hmmmmmm

DOH! beat me to it.

Here's a place in Austraila. (They make it very easy to ship to and from the USA) http://www.dashrestorations.com/ I have no idea what the cost would be from these guys. Interesting Before and after picture on their front page. Here's the place I was looking for. http://www.justdashes.com/index_home.htm I emailed these guys last year about doing 240Z dashs and they said they could do it and the cost would be around $800.00 usd.

Nope. I have a cover on my dash. I was searching for a company that will restore 240Z dashs and found that place instead. I was thinking about doing the repair myself. Using something to fill the cracks, sand it to shape, and re-cover the entire dash with vinyl or possibly leather. (Just a lttle dreaming here :classic: ) I know there is a place that will completely restore (actually, it will be better than new) the dash for about $800.00. I know it's very expensive, but if I find it again, I'll post it. Somebody might be interested.

Sorry, I don't have a scanner, but this link that mperdue posted covers it pretty good. http://240z.jeromio.com/frontcross.html [ Sorry, I haven't done it yet, I'm just passing on what I've read. I'm not to that point in my restoration / modification yet.

You could always try this.... http://www.superiorrestoration.com/repair_instructions_kits.html

My understanding is that bump-steer is a problem in stock Z’s and lowering the car, especially more than 1 inch, makes it worse. Installing spacers corrects for the roll-center change, but does nothing for the inherent bump-steer problem. The only thing that does correct bump-steer is to relocate the front lower control arm to cross-member connecting point.. The following is from the “Jags That Run”V8 conversion manual: Remove the front cross-member, remove the doublers that are spot welded to the cross-member. Weld .060” thick steel doublers inside the cross-member, drill 14mm (9/16”) holes ¾” (center to center) above the original holes (and ¼” outward if you want o add negative camber). Weld the original holes shut, grind flush and re-paint. The upper inboard corners of the lower control arms will have to be grinded to prevent them from contacting the cross-member.