Ben
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Everything posted by Ben
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ok, ok :classic: So my clock has been sitting on a shelf for the last 5 years as it's place in the dash is home to my oil-temp guage & I've forgotten the brand.
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Nabco - master cylinders IKI - lights Lucas - alternators/other 'faulty' electrical components :classic: JATCO - transmissions Isn't the clock 'Jideco' (or are we looking a a translation problem?) JECS - possibly things like the PS30 iginition module? But certainly the EFI system in later model cars. Trico - Wiper arms
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1971 240Z Tranny swap, auto->manual QUESTIONS!
Ben replied to batcave's topic in Suspension & Steering
If you're going to do a transmission swap, and don't car for originality. Don't bother with the 4-speed, get a 5 speed..... -
Ok, it's a slight hijack, but Walkingpig won't mind (I hope :classic: ). see: http://www.versadev.com/ben/HPI Volume 8/ for a sample of the potential that the FJ & RB series are capable of.
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Well, that is interesting. Perhaps the car was privately imported & subsequently complied? I don't recall seeing any Japanese cars with fender mirrors fitted with Australia originating as the location of the original sale. AIR, they were deemed illegal as a pedestrian hazard. Ahhh, the plot thickens :classic:
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I always looked forward to James' contributions to our discussions. He will be missed.
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I get around 300-350 km out of a tank. Power output is sufficient to embarrass XR6 Turbo's. The force-fed, but otherwise 100% stock L28E loses efficiency above about 5000rpm. My ported P90, forged pistons & 1-bar of boost will sort out that issue.... Oh, make sure you have your tach modified to suit the MSD output, or you'll fry it (I have a MSD-6A fitted to my car).
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Dashboard is stock, except for EGT & boost guages fitted to radio panel. And Oil press/temp fitted where the clock & fuel/ammeter used to go. -
This problem is my single biggest gripe with the Aus-spec 240Z. Why couldn't we have a sealed tank & a carbon canister like the 260Z? It would have made life much easier.... I'm considering a few different options: Foam-filling the tank (longevity issues?) Fitting dual 1-way valves to provide a 'resistant' flow to gasses & hopefully reduce the issue. OR Fit a fuel-cell.
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Try not to get 'entangled' with the ex this year eh?
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While wading through 1500 topics that have transpired since I visited last (I know, I'm neglecting my duties! I stumble across this very interesting situation.... HS30-00003 is seriously lacking some ADR numbers to be complied any later than ~1970, there's no mention of ARD26 and that goes back to 1968(?). So what's the story here, was the car complied early & sold late perhaps?
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I _wish_ my FJ20ET had a rev-limit, 8000rpm comes up mighty fast you know.... I recently got hold of the HPI Volume 8 DVD, which has some serious 8 & 9 second GT-R's featured at a JDDA drag championship round. Along with the odd GS30 pushing out 1000HP (and some 11-second DR30's )! I'll encode a few of the passes & post them on my webby in the near future.
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I had my shell stitch welded when it was restored & the plastic interior panel still creak when going around corners! RB30DET eh? http://home.iprimus.com.au/cobra30/twincam.htm This car is owned by a friend of mine, he's just put that engine in an R31 4-door. Talk about a sleeper....
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There is one other thing to remember.... The VLSD has 2 sets of splines in thh 1/2 shafts. The first set engages the carrier & the second set engages the VLSD centre. Hence, the use of 'regular' S30 R200 shafts will result in the VLSD not being used. My initial suggestion there is to convert to S130 CV axles, but fit the Z31SS or R32 inner CV - assuming it's compatible with the S130 shaft.... That solution is just thinking out loud - I have no idea of the chances of success.
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Another question that was posted on the IZCC was; How many people have seen an 8mm-equipped rod fail? No replies.... Fresh bolts, a balanced assembly and a sensible rev limit will see a fresh (new bolts) setup last. Plenty of people (myself included) have pushed the L24 to over 250HP with 25-year old components. I replace fasteners during a rebuild now cause I can afford to. But years ago, unless they were markedly stretched or damaged, they got reused. (Flawed logic I know, but that's what was done....) If you really want 9mm assemblies & cant find any Z engines locally, broaden your search to ANY L24 post 1972.
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without custom manifolds, the turbo placement will foul the chassis rail on the LHS. I have seen people notch the rail, but a better solution (engineering-wise) is to make custom manifolds. They are a small engine will plenty of power; a good balance. But Zmefly is right - the L-block turbo is a much easier fit!
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Weren't Chan & Jaws in a Mitsubishi Cordia Turbo, not a scoobie?
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Well, it's street-legal & registered now. I'm taking a bunch of shots for the zparts.com website soon & I'll post them here too.
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When I have a spare $3500AUD burning a hole in my pocket, I'll buy some nice new Watanabes for either the Z or my Skyline.... Until then, the Superlites will have to do:cry:
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And even those figures were optimistic, as a control fuel wasn't used & the OEM exhaust was also not fitted (among other things).... A fresh, stock, L28E will turn the rollers on a Dyno Dynamics dyno at around 68kW via the factory auto & a 3.9:1 R180. In comparison, my DR30 Skyline, fitted with a fresh (stock) 145kW FJ20ET will turn the rollers at ~110kW via a 5-speed & 3.9:1 R200 LSD. The run in the auto was done in 2nd (to enable manual gear selection) and the manual in 3rd. There is a local driver with a full-race L24 that turns a DynaPak at ~160kW @ ~8500rpm. That car MOVES. Anything above 120HP is good for an L24! (but if you factor in the 'different' readings that a DynoJet gives as opposed to a Dyno Dynamics, then the figure is more like 140HP).
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Just briefly.... Tsing Tao isn't a bad drop at all & Caffreys is smoooth. There are several very nice european brews that are completely ruined as they are re-made locally. Your best bet is to try to get the stuff in the imported bottles. Then you'll appreciate the 'correct' flavour....
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Hypothetical situation on the speedo accuracy angle: 1970 240Z (20mph speedo) Road works/school zone (25km/h limit) Busted for speeding @ 30km/h Win or lose? Yes, it's a joke.
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The cold start injector is subject to the same fuel pressure as the rest of the EFI system. If you remove it you should be able to visually inspect the nozzle for leaks.
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http://www.adelaideclutch.com.au Don't mind the webby, they focus their energies on clutches.....
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If you un-plug either the thermotime connector, or the cold-start injector, the car will not be able to inject auxillary fuel when the coolant temperature is under 18 deg C. HOWEVER, if the cold-start injector is leaking, then it will continue to leak. You can harm nothing by unplugging either of these components.
