SteveJ

Too bad you already pulled the trigger. Nostalgic AC has a compressor with a bracket for the L series engine, and they will adapt the Z control panel to work with their controls.

That is the original anchor point. You might consider adding a small spacer (1/4 inch or so) to aid in clearing the panel.

Yeah, Randy also doubts it refers to Brock Racing Enterprises, but he might email the photo to Peter anyway.

I would doubt that BRE on that block would have anything to do with Brock Racing Enterprises. Pete disbanded BRE in 72 when he decided to get into hang gliding. The N42 block came out in the 280Z. However, to cover my bases, I did send the picture to Randy Jaffe. Considering how much of a BRE fanatic he is, he may be able to shed some light onto that.

Just a couple of words of warning, there are several components that you will need to find suitable substitutes for, such as the drier and condenser. Even if you could find a stock condenser, you'll probably be running R134A, and the stock condenser is suboptimal for that refrigerant. Also, I tried to see if I could find a way to bench test the expansion valve at the evaporator. There doesn't seem to be such a method. If the expansion valve is bad, you'll end up tearing the system apart and trying to figure out what you could do for a replacement. That's the risk of used AC systems.

I have installed a set of these bulbs in a 280ZX. The nice thing about them is that they do NOT require relays. Just pair them with some nice H4 housings, and they will work fine. On the 280ZX, we used Hella housings. I had to modify the rubber seal a little, but they worked out nicely. They are on sale at Amazon as a lightning deal for the next few hours for $40. https://www.amazon.com/AUXITO-Headlight-Bulbs-000LM-6500K/dp/B07TQLK6SH

Originally, it was only 1 key for ignition and door/hatch/glove box locks. However, many ignitions were worn because of the weight of the keychains, and the keys would slide in and out. I replaced my ignition switch a long time ago, so I have two keys.

Yes, that was mine, and thank you. It's easier to make good videos when you have good subject matter. Look through my channel to see videos from ZCON 2018 and ZCON 2020, too. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXsvj3EGiok2_deomAZErHg/videos As for the owner of the shop, Larry Chen of Hoonigan Autofocus did some videos of a few of Randy's cars. https://www.youtube.com/c/HooniganAutoFocus/videos

While I won't be there, I recently got to spend time with a car that will be in the hotel lobby. Break out your leisure suit, lace up your boogie shoes, and step into the time machine to relive 1980.

I believe August 17 to be exact...Take note ZCON 2021 attendees.

Heck, I didn't need to do much of a search to find him. 😉 It is *ahem* interesting to go through his feed. By the way, the marriage didn't last...

One of yesterday's photos...

I'm out. I'm hoping 2022 will be closer to me.

You are limited tire-wise by keeping the Iron Cross wheels. With it being a black/red 10AE, I suggest keeping the stock wheels. There were only 500 made, and the original wheels will help with maintaining the value. Having said that, the Radial T/As are about as good as you'll find. You can find Dunlop Direzzas in 14 inch but only 185/60. Using a tire size comparison website, that's about 8% smaller than stock on diameter. It might not look right in the wheel wells, and I would hesitate to drive on them in any other conditions than warm (or hot) and dry. The Falken Azenis RT660 might work better than the Dunlops, but with the same constraints on weather. It will still be a little small for the wheel wells.

LOL, @siteunseenhas it right. I was shooting video at Randy Jaffe's shop today.

The young man who detailed the car is VERY good. I kept walking around the car to admire it. This is the holy grail of original 280ZXs.

Talk about a time capsule...

When checking for spark at the coil, this is what I did. And that was from a 280ZX distributor that had wobble in the shaft, so it didn't have the proper gap at the reluctor.

Do you need to drop a hint about what your kids should get you for Father's Day? https://www.autozone.com/ratchets-sockets-and-wrenches/socket-set/duralast-10mm-socket-set-10-piece/582151_0_0?spps.s=3827&cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:TLS:71700000060668368&gclid=Cj0KCQjw8IaGBhCHARIsAGIRRYrdJYwuRUVPbX4xGYByivEdXCmfN4kouAnXE0V4H-HS7NJd_3-iH4oaAqGfEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds Of course, the chances are that you'll lose them in the same places that you lost all of the others...

Given all you have told us about the remote starter...maybe You might want to give the manufacturer/model of the product and post the wiring diagram that came with it. Do you have a manual or automatic transmission?

Well, I guess I qualify for the group now...

The old testing units are LONG gone from Nissan. Testing with the coil wire near the shock tower is one way. If you aren't ready to fix the issue with the ballast resistor, you can look for resistance to ground at the negative terminal of the coil. Holding the key in start, you should see the resistance fluctuate as the TIU closes the circuit to ground. As for plug and play? Nope. However, I did lay out most of what you would need to do to create an affordable alternative.

It looks like it's the same between the 78 and 79.

The problem with doing it in the engine bay is that the 260Z has a connector that does not match the 280Z distributor connections that you are thinking of. I didn't trace out all of the circuit paths for the B/Y vs B/W wires, so I included diodes to prevent backfeeding out of a sense of caution. However, from a more detailed look at the EE and EC section, I have determined that the B/Y wire would not be needed for the HEI conversion. Therefore the diodes aren't necessary. Here is the revised diagram.