SteveJ

I was worried about the tach performance with a 1 ohm coil. This morning I installed a Pertronix with a 1 ohm coil into a car and bypassed the ballast. The tachometer appeared to be functioning correctly. @7tooZ - You could go with a Pertronix 1.5 ohm coil (40011 or 40111) or MSD 82023 coil. It looks like you can bypass the ballast resistor with no ill effects, too.

And here's a video from walking around the lot at the same meet.

Pertronix Flamethrower 3.0 Ohm coil...You can get it in oil-filled or epoxy.

Are you still using the ballast resistor?

I didn't say there was a list. I said it is all laid out. The list I gave was from looking at the page in the BE section for the voltmeter and going back to the wiring diagram to identify all of the branch circuits. The power for the hazard lights does not come off the same fuse as the voltmeter unless someone changed how your car is wired.

Many coils are oil filled for the heat dissipation media. You may see residue around the center post of the coil. Some auto manufacturers did vertical mounting of the coil to reduce the chance of losing the oil. However, the oil will break down as it ages, providing less heat removal.

Well, it's laid out in the wiring diagram with more detail in the BE section of the FSM. For the fuse that is for the voltmeter, you also have Brake Warning Lamp Check Relay Turn Signals (passing through the Hazard Switch) Seat Belt Warning Timer Unit Fuel Level Warning Lamp Backup Lamp Switch (Manual Transmission) Inhibitor Switch (Automatic Transmission)

The coil is a step-up transformer. It is composed primarily of wire, insulation, and material to help dissipate heat. If the insulation breaks down, you would see a weaker spark or no spark. Are you having a problem with your car? If so describe when it started and under what conditions.

I took the Z to our local "Worship" car meet. When the local Cars and Coffee (known as Caffeine and Octane here) got too big, some people started a smaller show for the same time slot that attracts more of a "car people" crowd. Anyway, there were 8 S30s there with the 280Z being the most prevalent. I got to see @jonathanrussellfor the first time in about 4 years, too.

No excuse, @Av8ferg. I went to high school in the 80s, and I knew that one. 😉

I use the brackets for a GoPro mount

If the voltage is too low, yes, you can hurt some electronics.

Did the Haltech come with wiring instructions? If so, post them. It's hard to guess what you are trying to do. It would probably be easier for me to draw it up correctly for you. For the right price, I could even make a junction harness for you to plug in between the dash harness and ignition switch. Why hack into the wiring if you don't need to? The drawing you posted on the Pertronix has a flaw that could lead to hard starting. Having a couple of diodes in the right place would give the Pertronix the correct voltage when the car is starting without trying to power the ignition circuit.

Meh. Even I don't believe much of what I say. 😉

In the START position, the G/W wire goes through the tachometer and comes out B/W. The B/W wire goes to the positive on the coil. In the ON position, the B/W wire goes to the ballast resistor and comes out G/W. The G/W wire goes through the tachometer and comes out B/W (different B/W wire than at the switch). The B/W wire goes to the positive on the coil. The B/W wire from the ignition switch (ON position) branches off to a few different functions. The most important one is going to the fuse box. Downstream of the 20A fuse it powers the turn signals, tachometer, brake warning light, and switched source for the alternator/voltage regulator. (Note: for some of these circuits, the wire is Green, but it came from the same source.) Before the fuse box, there is also a branch off the B/W wire that is Green. It goes through an inline fuse and comes out Green. That is for the electric fuel pump. It might have been re-routed for the Nissan modification that actually installed an electric fuel pump in the North American 240Zs. (Long story...) The B/W wire also provides power for a couple of emissions related circuits, but I'm guessing you or a previous owner have defeated and/or removed most of that. For the 240Z, the black wire off the coil is grounded by the points when they collapse.

As @Captain Obvious has mentioned in the past the "fuel pressure regulator" in a stock 240Z or 260Z is the orifice on the return line of the fuel rail. The 280Z was the first with a stock FPR.

An hour isn't enough.

Yeah, it doesn't look good @inline6. I sent him a text. He wants to hold onto it.

I'll pass your name/number to Randy.

Darn it. I just sold a Bridgestone spare to Randy Jaffe a couple of months ago.

One more thing, a fuel pressure gauge could be helpful. Put it between the fuel filter and fuel rail. If your CO is high or NOx is high, you'll need to know your fuel pressure. It could be off spec.

Adjust your valves. Check your compression to make sure you don't have a weak cylinder. Ask and pay for a pretest. That way if you do not pass, it does not count against you. Then you can adjust and try another pretest. After you pass the pretest, do the regular test. If you fail the pretest, post your results. Excess HC - You aren't burning your fuel. (Ignition/timing/compression) High CO - You are running rich. High NOx - You are running lean.

Having spent plenty of time in the High Desert in the past, I'm impressed with 0.03 in June. Meanwhile I run a portacool in my garage to dehumidify it enough that I don't suffer heat stroke here.

You might want to post photos so we can see what they look like.

But it's a dry heat...